4.2 Bodyoff Rebuild
Discussion
Hello to anyone reading.
I've decided to do a body off on my Cerbera, it's a 96 4.2. I'm going to use this thread to keep a diary, ask questions, upload pics e.t.c
I managed to get the cerb in my new unit yesterday, bit of a pain as to get in you have to negotiate a 700mm concrete loading bay step. So a ramp was made out of scaffolding. I have no lift at the moment and may get one installed but it's not an immediate priority. The car is on a mini ramp right now with just enough room to get under.
Progress so far I only had 2 hours on it, I occasionally will have my brother available to help with the odd thing.
Bonnet off, exhaust up to and including cats.
Helmet holder.
Prop shaft.
Gear lever.
Struggling with handbrake as pin is in the wrong way, pic to follow tomorrow, forgot today.
Rad is drained.
I am going to grind every bolt straight off I don't have time or inclination to mess about. Some pics below.
I've decided to do a body off on my Cerbera, it's a 96 4.2. I'm going to use this thread to keep a diary, ask questions, upload pics e.t.c
I managed to get the cerb in my new unit yesterday, bit of a pain as to get in you have to negotiate a 700mm concrete loading bay step. So a ramp was made out of scaffolding. I have no lift at the moment and may get one installed but it's not an immediate priority. The car is on a mini ramp right now with just enough room to get under.
Progress so far I only had 2 hours on it, I occasionally will have my brother available to help with the odd thing.
Bonnet off, exhaust up to and including cats.
Helmet holder.
Prop shaft.
Gear lever.
Struggling with handbrake as pin is in the wrong way, pic to follow tomorrow, forgot today.
Rad is drained.
I am going to grind every bolt straight off I don't have time or inclination to mess about. Some pics below.
Another 90 mins on this today, I'll try to be accurate with my timekeeping so we can see total hours at the end. I'll take a few more pics tomorrow, I had to rush off. I'm going to try to be as detailed as I can so that I have a reference in putting this thing back together.
Today I undid most of the chassis bolts that you can see from bottom and top of the floor pan. They came off easily enough. You have to pull the carpet up to access. I am not taking care of the carpet its all being binned! The rear seat bolsters just pull off with velcro and in my case glue. The rear seat underleg bolster also just pulls off. Some of the foam was left behind. The rear panels that have the seat belt running through them also just pull out, there is one wingnut up at the top which I'm guessing you should undo but I didn't need to it slid out easy enough. I think that there is possibly scope for a bit more rear passenger room in reducing thickness of rear of seats, just a little. I was surprised how pulling the bolster off would allow a carseat to sit back at least 50mm more which makes a massive difference on the drivers side. I'll be investigating this more.
I have taken the seatbelt reels out, which you need to do in order to get a spanner on the 17mm nut and bolt behind. Front carpets are mostly out then I cut them where the seat holds. Pics below of the order the seatbelt fixing construction. 5/8 imperial for the seatbelt bolts, and floor bolt. The assembly of this I think could be improved aesthetically, I may machine up something in alloy time permitting.
i am going to put everything into labelled tubs which I need to start doing tomorrow if I get a chance.
Everything that has come off so far has been simple. I am feeling optimistic that I can get the car trimmed for a reasonable price. Everything so far could be done fairly easily. I have horrible faded cream on black, with biscuit colour carpet. Floor carpet is red.
The biscuit and cream besides being old and water stained looks crap. The biscuit carpet especially is gross!
I'm not sure what colour I'm going to go for. I think maybe black and red, or white and red, if black then possibly anthracite wheels to match. The wood veneer on dash is well past it's best days also so something will be done to that.
A bolt I am unable to do at the moment is any seat runner, or the bolt which goes into outrigger that holds on the seatbelt slide rail. It just turns but I cant see how it cant just be straight into outrigger. If anyone knows then let me know before I grind it off and have to make a new rail.
Today I undid most of the chassis bolts that you can see from bottom and top of the floor pan. They came off easily enough. You have to pull the carpet up to access. I am not taking care of the carpet its all being binned! The rear seat bolsters just pull off with velcro and in my case glue. The rear seat underleg bolster also just pulls off. Some of the foam was left behind. The rear panels that have the seat belt running through them also just pull out, there is one wingnut up at the top which I'm guessing you should undo but I didn't need to it slid out easy enough. I think that there is possibly scope for a bit more rear passenger room in reducing thickness of rear of seats, just a little. I was surprised how pulling the bolster off would allow a carseat to sit back at least 50mm more which makes a massive difference on the drivers side. I'll be investigating this more.
I have taken the seatbelt reels out, which you need to do in order to get a spanner on the 17mm nut and bolt behind. Front carpets are mostly out then I cut them where the seat holds. Pics below of the order the seatbelt fixing construction. 5/8 imperial for the seatbelt bolts, and floor bolt. The assembly of this I think could be improved aesthetically, I may machine up something in alloy time permitting.
i am going to put everything into labelled tubs which I need to start doing tomorrow if I get a chance.
Everything that has come off so far has been simple. I am feeling optimistic that I can get the car trimmed for a reasonable price. Everything so far could be done fairly easily. I have horrible faded cream on black, with biscuit colour carpet. Floor carpet is red.
The biscuit and cream besides being old and water stained looks crap. The biscuit carpet especially is gross!
I'm not sure what colour I'm going to go for. I think maybe black and red, or white and red, if black then possibly anthracite wheels to match. The wood veneer on dash is well past it's best days also so something will be done to that.
A bolt I am unable to do at the moment is any seat runner, or the bolt which goes into outrigger that holds on the seatbelt slide rail. It just turns but I cant see how it cant just be straight into outrigger. If anyone knows then let me know before I grind it off and have to make a new rail.
Poopdog said:
Any updates?
Hi thanks for asking,Not too much at the moment, I haven't got the body off yet, but i'll be putting in some hours later today. I have been very busy and not had time, the car is still on ramps, I have fuel tank disconnected, boot off, rads, battery, seats out.
I am maybe 4/5 hours away from getting the body off, at which point progress will be much swifter as it will be smaller jobs I can do when I only have a few minutes spare.
The task I am a little stuck on is getting my dash structure off, so the whole front from passenger side to driver, I have removed all the bolts, but it appears that the whole thing is glued on, and it is solid. Has anyone else come across this before I wonder?
![](http://thumbsnap.com/sc/dLHUAMV6.jpg[/img]</a> <a href="http://thumbsnap.com/2LUC2nYB" Target="_blank" rel="nofollow">[img]http://thumbsnap.com/sc/2LUC2nYB.jpg[/img]</a> <a href="http://thumbsnap.com/gY8E4UbI" Target="_blank" rel="nofollow">[img]http://thumbsnap.com/sc/gY8E4UbI.jpg[/img]</a> <a href="http://thumbsnap.com/PezlTAjp" Target="_blank" rel="nofollow">[img]http://thumbsnap.com/sc/PezlTAjp.jpg)
Thanks for comments all.
I eventually got the dash off, I has to prise the upper and lower apart as it seems it had been bosticked together courtesy of the previous owner who used it for everything.
It took 7 hours to lift off, up and down a few times disconnecting more as it became accessible, I had my brother to help which was good. I'm hoping to do a bit more tomorrow. I'm quite set on making a chassis jig as i'd like to replace mine I think.
Things that clearly need replacing or upgrading, fuel lines, oil pipes, bushes, wishbones, uprights, and that is just to start I think. I'm going to make a new handbrake for certain, existing is crap and unsightly. Also going to rebuild engine and I have some ideas for raising power which hopefully i'll be able to do without an enormous amount of work but we will have to see on that with time.
I eventually got the dash off, I has to prise the upper and lower apart as it seems it had been bosticked together courtesy of the previous owner who used it for everything.
It took 7 hours to lift off, up and down a few times disconnecting more as it became accessible, I had my brother to help which was good. I'm hoping to do a bit more tomorrow. I'm quite set on making a chassis jig as i'd like to replace mine I think.
Things that clearly need replacing or upgrading, fuel lines, oil pipes, bushes, wishbones, uprights, and that is just to start I think. I'm going to make a new handbrake for certain, existing is crap and unsightly. Also going to rebuild engine and I have some ideas for raising power which hopefully i'll be able to do without an enormous amount of work but we will have to see on that with time.
She has sat for 18 months outside unfortunately, the engine was using more oil than fuel which I have not yet diagnosed. I have a clear vision for what i'm going to do but i'm not sure on how much I want to spend really.
I am going to make a chassis jig as one of the first things, I am then going to make up a new chassis, I am sure many people would repair this one, it probably looks a bit worse than it is.
I will also make the suspension components, most likely machine out of billet aluminium.
One thing I will likely have to pay for is the trimming of the interior, all new.
For the engine I have an idea, but we will see how it goes. I'd like to push the power up but i'll need a billet crank, however the cost I think is quite steep, I haven't really got a budget for everything so I'll take a look when I've got the chassis rolling.
I am going to make a chassis jig as one of the first things, I am then going to make up a new chassis, I am sure many people would repair this one, it probably looks a bit worse than it is.
I will also make the suspension components, most likely machine out of billet aluminium.
One thing I will likely have to pay for is the trimming of the interior, all new.
For the engine I have an idea, but we will see how it goes. I'd like to push the power up but i'll need a billet crank, however the cost I think is quite steep, I haven't really got a budget for everything so I'll take a look when I've got the chassis rolling.
The short response to this post is utter nonsense, i'll respond to some of your points below.
N7GTX said:
Having watched all your posts about this car with a lot of interest, it seems you are continuing to post unfounded and untruthful accusations.
Let me put you straight on these. I bought this car from a dealer in Doncaster who had it on a lift before he took it in part exchange and both he and his partner checked the chassis. I also checked it carefully. It was in good condition. End of.
It did not have an MOT and I took it as a project and without any warranty. Many items either did not work - windows, mirrors etc - or were worn out - coolant hoses, thermostat, power steering rack etc. I spent a lot of money having everything repaired or replaced - from memory £3,000+ (all from the big TVR dealers) - so that the car would be a good reliable one to enjoy.
Firstly, the chassis on this car was in excellent shape prior to you buying it. On your own admission you have left it idle for some 18 months and anyone with half an ounce of commonsense would not let a TVR stand unused like this. All the pictures show is the result of this folly. This is a '97 car and many, many cars both older and younger including Griffs and Chims have had far worse chassis corrosion - take a look on the Chimaera threads at the state of outriggers on their cars. There are no obviously glaring holes in the outriggers and without having the chassis media blasted to determine just how far gone it is quite pointless.
You complain relentlessly about 'glue' and 'bostick' and how it was 'bosticked together courtesy of the previous owner who used it for everything'. This is a downright lie. I can categorically state that I neither removed nor even attempted to remove or repair the dash so to state I 'bosticked' it together is clearly rubbish. I did not glue or bostick the seats, squabs or backs as suggested by you. The hessian material on the parcel shelf was torn, frayed and rotted from condensation off the rear windscreen so I replaced it with the material currently fitted. The door panels were similarly treated. This you were aware of.
I drove the car precisely 2 miles and the driveshaft snapped again so I machined 2 new shafts. After this the car was impossible to drive due to the oil issue. ****
I posted on PH after selling the car to you that I was very sad to see the car go. I regretted it immediately. Having owned more than 65 cars, it is very unusual for me to feel this way about a car. You never asked me to take the car back which I would have done had you returned it to me. I did not make any money when I sold it to you. I made a loss of around £2000 in the short time I owned it but it was a project to save the car from possible termination.
Finally, the car was shown at TVRCC Burghley, at the PH organised Lotherton Hall meeting, Boston Car Show, Stamford Car Show, Ossett Car Show, Wentworth Car Show, Doncaster Car Show all in the same 12 months in my ownership. Several members of this forum have seen the car and assisted me with queries about it. Do you really believe I would have shown it had it been as bad or as poor as you describe? From your posts the amount of oil you allege is being used would either leave a slick in its wake or huge clouds of smoke so as to make the car totally undriveable. Strangely, during my ownership, it did neither and had it been burning oil then I am 100% certain that my fellow Cerbera owners would have pointed it out to me. The weekend before you bought the car I drove it to Lincoln and back, a return journey of 150 miles. It used no oil. It drove faultlessly.
So, before posting accusations and comments about the 'previous owner' (check the registration document for all the previous owners - there are quite a lot) get your facts right. I have previously ignored your childish tantrums but following contact with other Cerbera owners concerned at your posts I have decided to put the record straight.
The dash on the car has been bosticked together, I haven't said it was you, but it clearly was a previous owner so put your toys back in your pram. You used it on the door seals so it must just be coincidence. The oil issue is the reason the car has been off the road, it used oil as I have described above from the first journey I did in it, and got progressively worse, I have barely done any miles in the car as I detailed above so i'm not sure why you think I am somehow to blame. What you spent on the car, how many cars you have owned or anything else is quite frankly completely irrelevant. Let me put you straight on these. I bought this car from a dealer in Doncaster who had it on a lift before he took it in part exchange and both he and his partner checked the chassis. I also checked it carefully. It was in good condition. End of.
- What does this have to do with anything?**
It did not have an MOT and I took it as a project and without any warranty. Many items either did not work - windows, mirrors etc - or were worn out - coolant hoses, thermostat, power steering rack etc. I spent a lot of money having everything repaired or replaced - from memory £3,000+ (all from the big TVR dealers) - so that the car would be a good reliable one to enjoy.
Firstly, the chassis on this car was in excellent shape prior to you buying it. On your own admission you have left it idle for some 18 months and anyone with half an ounce of commonsense would not let a TVR stand unused like this. All the pictures show is the result of this folly. This is a '97 car and many, many cars both older and younger including Griffs and Chims have had far worse chassis corrosion - take a look on the Chimaera threads at the state of outriggers on their cars. There are no obviously glaring holes in the outriggers and without having the chassis media blasted to determine just how far gone it is quite pointless.
- What has this got to do with anything. **
You complain relentlessly about 'glue' and 'bostick' and how it was 'bosticked together courtesy of the previous owner who used it for everything'. This is a downright lie. I can categorically state that I neither removed nor even attempted to remove or repair the dash so to state I 'bosticked' it together is clearly rubbish. I did not glue or bostick the seats, squabs or backs as suggested by you. The hessian material on the parcel shelf was torn, frayed and rotted from condensation off the rear windscreen so I replaced it with the material currently fitted. The door panels were similarly treated. This you were aware of.
- **You replaced the door seals did you not? You used bostik, the car leaked like a sieve.****
- ** What you have posted in the paragraph above is bizarre, firstly, since I owned the car to it being put off road I had travelled the sum total of 750 miles in it. I bought it from you, as you say did 150 miles in it. I put 1/2 liter of oil in it. Then drove it home 300 miles with my 18 month old son in it, another 1l. 3 miles later the master cylinder seals fail, I replaced the master, I don't know what your bleeding comment is referring to you have no idea what I did. A further 3 miles down the road and the slave fails. replaced. I also have no idea what your fragile comment is in reference to, are you suggesting that I pressed the clutch in the wrong way and caused the seals to break? Very bizarre comment.
I drove the car precisely 2 miles and the driveshaft snapped again so I machined 2 new shafts. After this the car was impossible to drive due to the oil issue. ****
I posted on PH after selling the car to you that I was very sad to see the car go. I regretted it immediately. Having owned more than 65 cars, it is very unusual for me to feel this way about a car. You never asked me to take the car back which I would have done had you returned it to me. I did not make any money when I sold it to you. I made a loss of around £2000 in the short time I owned it but it was a project to save the car from possible termination.
Finally, the car was shown at TVRCC Burghley, at the PH organised Lotherton Hall meeting, Boston Car Show, Stamford Car Show, Ossett Car Show, Wentworth Car Show, Doncaster Car Show all in the same 12 months in my ownership. Several members of this forum have seen the car and assisted me with queries about it. Do you really believe I would have shown it had it been as bad or as poor as you describe? From your posts the amount of oil you allege is being used would either leave a slick in its wake or huge clouds of smoke so as to make the car totally undriveable. Strangely, during my ownership, it did neither and had it been burning oil then I am 100% certain that my fellow Cerbera owners would have pointed it out to me. The weekend before you bought the car I drove it to Lincoln and back, a return journey of 150 miles. It used no oil. It drove faultlessly.
So, before posting accusations and comments about the 'previous owner' (check the registration document for all the previous owners - there are quite a lot) get your facts right. I have previously ignored your childish tantrums but following contact with other Cerbera owners concerned at your posts I have decided to put the record straight.
Funnily enough my last daily car was an E39 M5, I did 40k miles in it in 18 months, engine is rather big though!
What I plan to do is change ecu, have wideband feedback and very lightly turbo. To do that I figure I need upgrade on the crank and rods, I can machine new pistons myself so I'll have to see what option I have on the crank. This engine clocked 315 on the dyno when I put it on, I'd like much more than that.
What I plan to do is change ecu, have wideband feedback and very lightly turbo. To do that I figure I need upgrade on the crank and rods, I can machine new pistons myself so I'll have to see what option I have on the crank. This engine clocked 315 on the dyno when I put it on, I'd like much more than that.
Sure they made them, to make a chassis you need a jig. I have the steel lying around for want of a better word to make a chassis jig which is what I am going to do in the next few weeks. It's relatively simple just time consuming, but the chassis looks easy to make a jig for.
Tomorrow I am going to price up doing one in 4130 compared to cds, a new chassis that is.
Tomorrow I am going to price up doing one in 4130 compared to cds, a new chassis that is.
Poopdog said:
I would think that if you pulled it off making a new chassis you would be able to sell a few to put towards the build of your project.
Sure, maybe! Today the steel for chassis is ordered, I have gone for ROPT510 which is a high quality material. Hopefully start on the jig Thursday time permitting.
Gassing Station | Cerbera | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff