Borg Warner 35 Automatic Gearbox removal - Help Needed!

Borg Warner 35 Automatic Gearbox removal - Help Needed!

Author
Discussion

Oily Puddles

Original Poster:

31 posts

115 months

Tuesday 28th April 2015
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I need to separate the engine and automatic gearbox from a 1965 Sunbeam Alpine sports car and I have little understanding of automatics and how they fit together (plus they scare me). I have done engine an gearbox jobs on a lot of manual Alpines but haven't worked on an automatic for a number of years (although I have done this job before). I want to leave the auto box in the car and leave the torque convertor and rest of gearbox as undisturbed as possible.

It must be old age but I just can't remember how the engine and gearbox actually separate and what happens as they come apart!

I have a vague memory or locking the ring gear and then reaching through the starter motor hole with a goosenecked spanner and undoing 4 bolts that join a steel plate that connects the crankshaft to the flywheel then moving the engine forward and separating the two units there. Is this correct? It seems an odd way of doing business and I can't believe that's is the official way of doing the job.
On a manual you can just swing the two units apart, the end of the gearbox shaft locates in the spigot bearing in the crankshaft and the gearbox shaft passes through the middle of the clutch. Can the engine and automatic box be swung apart like this and if they can what happens to the torque convertor, shaft, fluids etc?

I doubt if many people on here have worked on Automatic Sunbeam Alpines (they made less than 200) but any help or advice from anyone familiar with the Borg Warner 35 would be gratefully received. This automatic box was fitted to MGs, Triumphs, Rovers as well as numerous American cars so there are a lot around.

I am off to drink some alcohol and puzzle over this problem for a while and try to remember what I did before!

Oily

Oily Puddles

Original Poster:

31 posts

115 months

Tuesday 28th April 2015
quotequote all
Thanks Imagineifyeswill

You would think that they would make it a little easier to do! It will take an extended gooseneck 9/16 ring spanner to get to the bolt head as no box spanner, socket or other spanner will fit. The bolt heads are only just visible through the starter motor hole!

Looks like I am going to be busy!

Oily

Oily Puddles

Original Poster:

31 posts

115 months

Thursday 30th April 2015
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I separated the engine and gearbox by undoing the four bolts that hold the steel plate to the flywheel (accessed once the bottom cover plate between the two units was removed). I used the starting handle to lock the engine (and the bolts are only very lightly torqued) so they came apart easily. This allowed the engine to swing forward and free leaving the gearbox, torque converter etc undisturbed. So far much easier than taking a manual apart as the engine does't have to move so far forward to separate as it is not coming off of a long shaft!

Thanks for everyone's thoughts and comments.

Oily

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Oily Puddles

Original Poster:

31 posts

115 months

Saturday 2nd May 2015
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Thanks Steve,

The aim is to keep the gearbox and TC as is and then return the engine back to position after it has been fixed. I take you point though and will secure the TC before any mishaps!

Oily

Oily Puddles

Original Poster:

31 posts

115 months

Monday 4th May 2015
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Taken Steve D's advice. Now I just need to get the engine fixed and back in again.

Oily