How hard is it to rebuild your own engine?

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The head gasket went on my x308 XJR last year.
I got a replacement engine fitted and it's perfectly fine and the car runs well.
I want to rebuild the original engine myself over the next 18 months or so.
I always wanted to build an engine.

So, I've no deadlines, plenty of space, a pretty good set of tools and am fairly ok working on cars.

Is it possible by myself, outsourcing parts like head skimming and porting along the way?

I'm missing an engine crane and a jig to mount the engine on. But apart from that I think I'm in a good place to start.

How would you approach it?
Should I just make a start and get it stripped down?

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Thanks, some tags with string to tie onto the parts as I strip it down I guess.
Take pictures as I progress..
I have a good torque wrench - got a second hand one off ebay and had it calibrated + crows feet sockets etc..
And an old table..

I'm hoping to rebuild it as cleanly as possible, taking the time to properly clean and where possible replace parts.

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I was thinking of perhaps getting garage tiles

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Thanks everyone for the tips and advice.

Properly documenting as I go, then labelling and bagging as I progress duly noted.

I have a (nearly) empty stack of shelves to store all the parts along the way, I'll need some plastic boxes to organise everything.

In terms of manuals, I have a copy of Jaguar JTIS, which has detailed step by step guides for all the peripheral jobs I'll need to do dismantling and reassembling.

In terms of specific tools, have vernier calipers, feeler gauges, micrometer, a dial gauge, good torque wrench and the rest of sockets, ratchets and spanners.

On eBay, second hand engine cranes and engine stands are practically free, so I should be able to pick those up easily..

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stevieturbo said:

Cableman....Mancable...both new members, 1 post.

WTF LOL.

Clocked that as well
What are the odds eh?
Hope they don't start arguing with each other over a precious ring!

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stevieturbo said:

This style is the most versatile

http://www.sgs-engineering.com/garage-equipment/en...

Ones with a single leg only are a little less stable, and stands with 2 legs whilst more stable again...are just too big and awkward.

The single middle leg with cross piece is best all rounder for most engines

That is perfect. Thanks Stevie.

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Steve_D said:

It may be worth finding out or understanding why the engine was replaced rather than just having the head gaskets replaced. There may be other factors which may mean it is not repairable rather than not economical. A cracked block would be a possibility and something a 'first timer' may not spot.

Steve

That's good advice, and thanks, it's a good point to make. I hope it's repairable as I want to put the original engine (and gearbox) back in the car. I love it, got married in it, took the newborn kids home from hospital in it, done laps of Europe many times in it, it's cherished

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PaulKemp said:

I started with a simple head gasket change and have worked forward over time to a full rebuild
However it ain't simple
You can't just strip an engine and replace bearings, rings, Pistons etc without nowing what to measure and how.
Then there's the cost, as an exercise over time it's affordable even with the lessons learnt but start simple, read and research, ask basic questions as there are some very very experienced engine builders on here
Just be aware some are very precious about their subject and on many forums there are the engine building equivelants of bar room lawyers
Every things a learning experience go for it
One step at a time

Sound advice, appreciated..
I've just ordered (second hand) copies of Engine Builder's Handbook and an Auto Math Handbook, thanks for the reference above earlier..
(Just as an aside, I've done a bit of work on the engine myself in the past; timing chains and tensioners are a weak point on earlier incarnations of this engine and I replaced them myself, but I never really understood engine timing so I guess there's no time like the present..)

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Thanks Paul, that makes sense, appreciated!

I read Engine Blueprinting, Step by Step Guide last year, which was an easy entry level read.

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PaulKemp said:

If the cam data says full lift at 110 degrees after top dead centre ATDC you find TOP DEAD CENTRE TDC cam belt/chain off and rotate the engine until the piston goes down the bore and the crank has rotated 110 degrees
You then rotate the camshaft until the inlet valve on No.1 cylinder is fully open, maximum lift
Replace cam belt or chain and cam is timed

I didn't know, in principal, it was that straightforward.