8" subs in a monaro club

[KMud]

Now a partial member, need to print the other side

Mk1 (right), Mk2 (left):






Mk3 in place, M5 bolts with nyloc nuts:


Underneath:


It's necessarily a bit tight between the speaker posts and the shelf - will report back on if it rattles if anyone is bothered...but will probably take a toffee hammer to the rear shelf rather than modify the housing design and print again. They're the same cheap-ass Pyramid subs ferret used - motivated by my aftermarket head unit causing the OE subs to make horrible crackling noises when first turned on (and occasionally when driving). I have been happily driving around with holes in the rear shelf (good 6.5" Pioneer speakers somewhat compensate for the lack of subs), but with increased road noise...so it would be nice to replug those holes a bit. I've got some deadening material for the rear shelf, and an amp to attach somewhere...but none of it will work until I finish relocating the battery.

[KMud]

Yeah, 3D printing. Honestly, it's the lazy option, and probably contributing to a general decline in proper machining skills! Made in halves because the printing bed isn't big enough, each half taking about 5-6 hours.

Yours looks like a proper job

[KMud]

M11 MFP said:

That looks to be very good quality and design.

Could you print an amazing custom airbox? Or would that be too much for the machine.

The machine I'm using is pretty low-end (makerbot replicator 2), but there are all sorts of 3D printers using different materials (including metals). I used PLA plastic, which seems ok (possibly a bit brittle, would not take well to over-tightening the bolts) and it's matrix inside (so not solid plastic). I don't know if it would stand up to a powerful speaker for very long, but feels like it will be more than adequate for my needs. I don't know anything about airbox design, but if it's like a sub box then MDF is still probably easier/quicker/cheaper.

[KMud]

Just access, they're maturing so quickly I'll happily hold off for now.

[KMud]

I think if they work out, the best thing to do would be sawzall half the rear deck out of one of Raving or Brett's stock, and do a more optimal job measuring/fitting - it's a bugger inside the car, I could do a much better job of it with better access.