Thoughts and help on engine upgrades.

[Behold81]

So I have sourced some ls6 heads and ls6 intake for the ls1 (early model ls1) and before fitting ordering if I should do anything else at the same time. CAM seems sensible so assuming lifters too make sense. Worth doing the Pistons? Or leave them for now?

Also any good articles or companies to lightly port/polish my heads? Also best source for gaskets.

Thanks.

[Behold81]

Not sure if the engine will be out yet. Might be an idea if I'm doing a lot.

Engine is 110k so chain is a good idea and water pump. Was only going to do had gaskets. Had forgot about bolts. So studs make sense.

Also can then do Pistons and cam at the same time maybe. Although if doing chain and pump surely easier to cam then?

Oil pump is sump off???

[Behold81]

Wow. That's a lot of info! Thanks guys. I want a cam to make the most. Need some help with the spec for that.

I'm more and more tempted at engine out. Then this goes so far I think the other option is a short block and swap. As said it all spirals.

The heads came with some stock ratio roller rockers which I either sell and upgrade or use. If I do the CAM the chain is being done at the same time. I think I'll stud the heads (makes sense).

Will make some more comments when by a pc tomorrow.

[Behold81]

So a bit more info is that the car is boosted with a Centri and long term a larger Centri. I have water injection to reduce pre det and a big enough intercooler that seems to keep intake temps down quite well. (I never breached 100 after several 1/4 runs in the middle of summer) I'm running a 1 7/8 headers in to 3.5 collectors and 2.5 exhaust. with this a CAM is almost a must.

reading through there is a lot of common parts being mentioned. Its all going to happen so no reason to not do a lot of it at once.
So here is what I have right now.

I have LS6 intake and heads with Yella Terra Roller 1.7's included to be fitted to the car.

Reading what you have all said I'm thinking:

Use the YT for now and maybe then upgrade my old LS1 rockers in the future and swap.
Clean, Port and light polish on the heads. (Tempted to look at increasing the chamber a little if possible to reduce compression)
Port/polish my TB.

This makes a good increase and being blown will be more than enough without breaking the bank.

Then buy the following for now as I do the upgrade:

Uprated Springs (Type TBD)
CAM (Spec to be discussed)
New Lifters and Rods
Head Studs
Conrod bolts as its an easy job
New uprated oil pump (This is preferable I'm sure on an early LS1)
New Chain and Guides (Better to be replaced than use old tat)
New Water Pump (Seems sensible and tempted with an LS2 with a slight pull on the pulley or an aftermarket with boltable pulley as the belt is a b!tch to get on with my 8.5 charger pulley on.)
Not sure a need for split timing plate although if cheap enough.

That then leaves pistons and bottom end for a rainy day. I might look at a new(old) block and build it up at leisure and swap out. Plus I want a new diff first!

The question is what to get of each to minimise spend without buying chocolate parts. I have a contact well known here for BTR parts. 918 springs and studs so that eases a lot.

I will start another thread on CAMs once I have fully read up on it. The benefit is the car is a toy/hobby so it does not need to be too tame! and I would rather spend a bit more and build it myself then buy it prebuilt off the shelf. the benefit is the savings on labour.

Tuning the car after is fine as I'm getting quite good with EFI live so that should be fine. Obviously gaskets that need replacing will be done.

Does that sound sensible? or am I missing something?

[Behold81]

I too the ls6 as I can sort some compression with Pistons. I don't need the big drop yet till the larger charger I think.

As to the YTs I'm not sure what to check for to confirm batch number. Any links?

And thanks. I'm looking forward to the build.

[Behold81]

MyM8V8 said:

Google is your friend. Senior moment again, its not batch numbers but how they are stamped that may give a clue.

http://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-internal-...

PS. I have a set of 1.7's that have been awesomely fine.

Thanks. That still does not help. The ones I have are not ultralites. They look like Jon adjustable platinums. They have more meat where they are week and there solid.

[Behold81]

MyM8V8 said:

Not a bad choice for the man. Won't have any vices at that.

Looking in to it it seems. Want long duration with only a little overlap. What's the lift on it stevie?? What sort of condition is it?

[Behold81]

MyM8V8 said:

Not a bad choice for the man. Won't have any vices at that.

Looking in to it it seems. Want long duration with only a little overlap. What's the lift on it stevie?? What sort of condition is it?

[Behold81]

The lower CR can be done with pustons later on. I'm not pushing the limit on the car just yet. It's more the fact I am increasing the compression. With 317s I lower it. And I think it's a bit to low I really wanted to just even it back to 10.1

I'm sure for now it's fine.

[Behold81]

Lift looks fine. I belive the ls6 tops out flow at about .580 and the port will be done by me so not sure I'll do much more good to need over .600

As to the duration. It seems mild from what I'm reading but open to your comments. Get the idle will be good with very little overlap. But would a little more not be beneficial for performance.

This is a toy car now. I'm not needing to be to reserved.

I'm still learning on cams so please slap me and teach me!!!

[Behold81]

ARAF said:

You need to plot lift over time, to get a graphic representation of the ability to flow. I'm sure Behold81 knows that though, as he's always been very hands on with his car.

Valid point. You want to maximise the flow you have. So holding it in max flow longer will be a valid factor.

I'm still learning on cam specs and whilst I get what a cam does and how differences will change the characteristics I'm still working out the finer points.

I read you still want some overlap to be efficient on performance. If I have read it right the cam stevie has is little to no overlap.

[Behold81]

jameshsv said:

A nice 230/238 will do the job for me.

I'm seeing that most centri suited cams lift at .590 max so seems the extra lift is often not used. Also 114-116 is common lsa

There is a lot of mixed talk on duration.

[Behold81]

ARAF said:

Yes, but my understanding from the various arguments on here is that overlap will mean you exhaust a little mixture, and then you run into emissions problems. If you're okay with that, then fill your boots.

Fair point. Emissions is less of an issue for me as I am not required to have a cat test.

Will read the article posted. I'm not saying I'm right at all. This is a bit of a school day for me in black arts.

[Behold81]

R8VXF said:

A very good read on cams in a blower situation: http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/engine/1409-lsx-blowe...

No overlap like on the BTR comp blower cam comes out top dog

Interesting read and it makes sense that boost is seen lower on an NA cam but it actually performed better than expected with the lower figures similar or better. On a centri that might be quite useful as it's not till 3.5k it really starts to pick up real vigor.

I can see some weeks of reading ahead of me!

Thanks all so far.