Discussion
hello all
back home after 2 month of not driving it, my VXR8 has some troubles:
- when cold at the "System check" before cranking, may show the "engine immobilized" message 4-5 times, but start after some trials. Almost never when hot.
- power loss / cut when cold
- cruise control switching off in the first 15 minutes of driving
- It happened to have some hesitation when revving
- the car was plugged with a battery charger all the time
- the car was running OK before that period, I had it logged and it did not show any codes.
- I just tried an bluetooth OBD2 reader, and did not show any codes
- I drove it anyway, and that's now the third tank of best fuel I can find
- I checked plugs leads and MAF connector, they look OK.
- spark plugs have around 10k miles
I was thinking about a fuel system defect like a clogged filter or aged fuel pump. Is there a way to check this without removing the fuel tank (and rear subframe)?
any thoughts?
back home after 2 month of not driving it, my VXR8 has some troubles:
- when cold at the "System check" before cranking, may show the "engine immobilized" message 4-5 times, but start after some trials. Almost never when hot.
- power loss / cut when cold
- cruise control switching off in the first 15 minutes of driving
- It happened to have some hesitation when revving
- the car was plugged with a battery charger all the time
- the car was running OK before that period, I had it logged and it did not show any codes.
- I just tried an bluetooth OBD2 reader, and did not show any codes
- I drove it anyway, and that's now the third tank of best fuel I can find
- I checked plugs leads and MAF connector, they look OK.
- spark plugs have around 10k miles
I was thinking about a fuel system defect like a clogged filter or aged fuel pump. Is there a way to check this without removing the fuel tank (and rear subframe)?
any thoughts?
hi back! thanks for your advices.
Decided to change the battery, perfect time, two month after the end of its warranty!
Voltage readings are better, above 14V at cold starts, And the small road test I made did not show any power cuts. But I still have some of the previous symptoms:
- happy intermittent fuel consumption readings
- cruise control desactivation
- some, but less, incomplete "system check " or false start (engine cranking then stop, then "engine immobilized" message)
I was wondering if the time I spent swapping batteries was enough for a reset (max 5 minues). What is the minimum time requested to do a reset?
Decided to change the battery, perfect time, two month after the end of its warranty!
Voltage readings are better, above 14V at cold starts, And the small road test I made did not show any power cuts. But I still have some of the previous symptoms:
- happy intermittent fuel consumption readings
- cruise control desactivation
- some, but less, incomplete "system check " or false start (engine cranking then stop, then "engine immobilized" message)
I was wondering if the time I spent swapping batteries was enough for a reset (max 5 minues). What is the minimum time requested to do a reset?
had to do it anyway, they are around 15000 km now.
Looks like it is really related with temperature/humidity. I have troubles only at cold starts, and before I have normal oil running temperature
The car was parked outside this week end, which was really hot and dry, and did not make any troubles when i cranked it up sunday evening.
It has front suspension arms & struts bushings done, maybe some ABS sensor/wire was slightly damaged during the process. I will have the car on a lift this week to check it out.
Looks like it is really related with temperature/humidity. I have troubles only at cold starts, and before I have normal oil running temperature
The car was parked outside this week end, which was really hot and dry, and did not make any troubles when i cranked it up sunday evening.
It has front suspension arms & struts bushings done, maybe some ABS sensor/wire was slightly damaged during the process. I will have the car on a lift this week to check it out.
investigation in progress, and thoughts:
I had a look on how i could check my abs sensors on front wheels.
with wheels, calipers and disc soff, i try to turn by hand the wheel hub, which did not turn really freely, and even making some small noise in reverse.
I sprayed a bit a magical wd40 on it, an the rotation was better.
So i think i'm good for new wheel bearings. If WD 40 can enter into the bearing, that means water and every dust can go.
Which could explain why my troubles are only at "cold", time for the bearing to heat up a bit I guess.
Also, I noticed the car sits a bit higher in the front than the back.
What is the gap (for vxr8 with standard suspension and wheels) between the top of the tire and the wheel arch? Also, may I ask one of you to measure on the front strut the heigh of the bolt?
I think
1) the mechanic was a bit generous with his hammer when changing my suspension arms
2) when he changed the front stuts bearings, he did re-installed something wrong, such as a rubber piece on the top of the suspension.
he had a geometry done on the car and he told me one value was almost impossible to put into the factory settings, could be explained by this excessive height, and a bad re-installation of the suspension
By the way, I think it will be difficult to argue with him but this and a correction.
I am considering doing myself the job, but I will have to find a correct spring compressor, and redo a wheel setting after.
I had a look on how i could check my abs sensors on front wheels.
with wheels, calipers and disc soff, i try to turn by hand the wheel hub, which did not turn really freely, and even making some small noise in reverse.
I sprayed a bit a magical wd40 on it, an the rotation was better.
So i think i'm good for new wheel bearings. If WD 40 can enter into the bearing, that means water and every dust can go.
Which could explain why my troubles are only at "cold", time for the bearing to heat up a bit I guess.
Also, I noticed the car sits a bit higher in the front than the back.
What is the gap (for vxr8 with standard suspension and wheels) between the top of the tire and the wheel arch? Also, may I ask one of you to measure on the front strut the heigh of the bolt?
I think
1) the mechanic was a bit generous with his hammer when changing my suspension arms
2) when he changed the front stuts bearings, he did re-installed something wrong, such as a rubber piece on the top of the suspension.
he had a geometry done on the car and he told me one value was almost impossible to put into the factory settings, could be explained by this excessive height, and a bad re-installation of the suspension
By the way, I think it will be difficult to argue with him but this and a correction.
I am considering doing myself the job, but I will have to find a correct spring compressor, and redo a wheel setting after.
Update!
Finally found someone able to pull intermittent codes. Seems to be related to key,theft deterrent module and bcm communication.
As the symptoms almost disappear when engine is hot, I used a small heater to warm up the driver footwell. (bcm is behind the dash, on the right side).
After 5-10 minutes, I could start with no issues, and drive without any cuts. Only symptom remaining was oscillating fuel consumption readings.
What a pleasure! I had almost forgotten how it feels to drive whitout issues!
So now I have an hybrid vxr8, till i found a 12v heater.
Finally found someone able to pull intermittent codes. Seems to be related to key,theft deterrent module and bcm communication.
As the symptoms almost disappear when engine is hot, I used a small heater to warm up the driver footwell. (bcm is behind the dash, on the right side).
After 5-10 minutes, I could start with no issues, and drive without any cuts. Only symptom remaining was oscillating fuel consumption readings.
What a pleasure! I had almost forgotten how it feels to drive whitout issues!
So now I have an hybrid vxr8, till i found a 12v heater.
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