Forced Induction Interchillers

Forced Induction Interchillers

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R8VXF

Original Poster:

6,788 posts

115 months

R8VXF

Original Poster:

6,788 posts

115 months

Tuesday 25th August 2015
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S800VXR said:
MF are doing something for 007..... still? I looked into it but its allot of work with little benefit in Blighty, Texas maybe. smile
Good for drag racing as you can sit in line and not heatsoak the engine smile And after logging IAT2 recently, it does get rather warm under normal use.

R8VXF

Original Poster:

6,788 posts

115 months

Tuesday 25th August 2015
quotequote all
eliot said:
FORD patented this idea years ago. Whilst I can see how it works for a single pull or drag run, I suspect it would become in-effective on subsequent runs (in terms of recovery time)
Recovery is pretty quick actually, have been following along on the original build thread and he seems to know his st.

R8VXF

Original Poster:

6,788 posts

115 months

Tuesday 25th August 2015
quotequote all
S800VXR said:
R8VXF said:
S800VXR said:
MF are doing something for 007..... still? I looked into it but its allot of work with little benefit in Blighty, Texas maybe. smile
Good for drag racing as you can sit in line and not heatsoak the engine smile And after logging IAT2 recently, it does get rather warm under normal use.
That's cos you have a baby SC under the bonnet! wink
Makes for better low end torque wink

R8VXF

Original Poster:

6,788 posts

115 months

Tuesday 25th August 2015
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preciousmetal said:
won't this invalidate your VX UK warranty, or have you done that already with other Mods confusedwink
Other mods on the way fairly soon. Don't think I will manage to last 100000 miles without modding it anyway. First service and rear tyres are now due :shock:

R8VXF

Original Poster:

6,788 posts

115 months

Tuesday 25th August 2015
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I also think that doing 166 at an official VX event might have given the game away slightly...

R8VXF

Original Poster:

6,788 posts

115 months

Tuesday 25th August 2015
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kaw said:
Been looking at this for some time i was waiting for the fish to sort thiers out but had a chat with roger and hes shelved the idea so looking to get one from the states know
Reading through what this chap has gone through with the kits from the states, I wouldn't bother with them, they are particularly shoddy. This kit is as sweet as pie though.

R8VXF

Original Poster:

6,788 posts

115 months

Wednesday 26th August 2015
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007 VXR said:
frown



But this guy dont do one for a monaro cry
It is pretty generic. Drop him a line and he may be able to sort something out smile

R8VXF

Original Poster:

6,788 posts

115 months

Wednesday 26th August 2015
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eliot said:
Got a link to that thread ?
It is somewhere towards the end of this thread http://www.hsvforum.com.au/showthread.php?14440-Ge...

R8VXF

Original Poster:

6,788 posts

115 months

Wednesday 26th August 2015
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MyM8V8 said:
Also you are now buying the ozzie dollar at 2.19 to the pound, so better buying there.
Oooh, that has dropped the price of an OTR to about 400 quid biggrin Happy with that. Might have to get it on order v soon!

R8VXF

Original Poster:

6,788 posts

115 months

Wednesday 26th August 2015
quotequote all
eliot said:
R8VXF said:
eliot said:
FORD patented this idea years ago. Whilst I can see how it works for a single pull or drag run, I suspect it would become in-effective on subsequent runs (in terms of recovery time)
Recovery is pretty quick actually, have been following along on the original build thread and he seems to know his st.
Having read the thread - I would agree too, seems nicely engineered.
One of the early graphs seem to only show a gain right at the last point on the dyno pull - there was very little difference throughout the pull.
And I think I'm reading that he's changed the ignition timing for the low IAT temp areas, which would make a bigger difference between having the chiller on and off. (i.e. makes it look better than it really is because he's eating into the safety margin of the OEM map)
Having said all that, It still seems worthwhile overall because if nothing else it keeps things nice and safe for a relatively simple mod.
He hasn't tuned it yet, it is in the oem timing that timing is advanced under a certain temperature smile Just like timing is pulled when it gets too hot.

R8VXF

Original Poster:

6,788 posts

115 months

Friday 30th October 2015
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Heya Kirk, good to have you over here smile

AngryMidget

Original Poster:

6,788 posts

115 months

Tuesday 23rd February 2016
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GenF-GTS said:
correct you do not get hot when stopped in traffic, recently we had a customer at the drags on a 30c day and his intake temps were 10c whilst waiting in the pits with the car idling for 20-40min between runs.

When you go WOT without the chiller your temps increase quite high then with the chiller they do not go anywhere near as high and you have more ignition timing as it's not being removed since you are at a lower temp in the IAT table. So you gain HP.
I think you might know where I am going with this but hear me out. Sat in traffic the other day for about 20 minutes in 13C ambient temps, my IAT1 climbed up to the mid 60s due to the heat soaking of the air pipe. Obviously, as soon as I pulled away and started pulling more air through the temps dropped fairly rapidly, but in this situation the chiller has no affect on IAT1, and minimal affect on IAT2 due to the boost bypass being open.

Extrapolate this to the start of a run and you are starting from the line already heat soaked for the first 60' or so whilst the charge cools all the parts down again. Granted any loss here will be made back at the top end and more, but netter not lose that loss in the first place I guess which then leads me on to my next question. Would water jacketing the intake pipe to prevent it getting heat soaked in the first place be of much use as it would also provide a colder, denser charge of the air to the rotors to begin with?

AngryMidget

Original Poster:

6,788 posts

115 months

Tuesday 23rd February 2016
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Xpuffin said:
Appreciate your post, perhaps i worded my question badly as you haven't answered it.
In you video the chilled iats rise to 45ish c in a 14 sec pull. I get the baseline starts lower due to the chillercooler doing its job but how long can you hold wot (Ie the mile) before the temps need spark control or are you saying the chillercooler can hold temps for the entirety of the run.
AIUI, all depends on how big your reservoir is and whether there is enough coolant to only pass through the intercooler once.
(Theoretical numbers)
IE: 12s pass on the 1/4 mile. Pump flows 1l/s. You would need a 12l system of coolant for the coolant to only pass through the intercooler once during the run, and thus temps shouldn't rise into spark retardation territory.

AngryMidget

Original Poster:

6,788 posts

115 months

Tuesday 23rd February 2016
quotequote all
Xpuffin said:
That only addresses the return temperature of the interchiller coolant.
Not what I'm asking, I want to know when, using the coolest interchiller fluid temps possible on a wot run, and for the duration of that run, the iats rise to a level that would result in retardation.
I ask this because on a 14 sec wot run the temps rose very rapidly to 45ish and showed no signs of slowing.
The majority of the guys over here never need to contend with 35c oats on a regular daily basis during a commute nor do they drag race the car. Therefore I'm guessing that a fair few would be considering this system for events like Thunder Road where I'm yet to be convinced it would make much overall difference.
But I'm sure given a turbo type inter cooler system the results would be significantly different as the inherent weakness will always be the valley inter cooler itself.
Gotcha, will double check my logs from Thunder Road to see if I have IAT2 logged, not sure I do have though. I don't remember too much timing being pulled though, and that was a hot day.

It does in part answer the question in that the coolant temperature going into the intercooler will still be very cold, but the roots blowers inefficiencies start to make themselves known as they compress the air in the manifold/against the intercooler producing a lot of heat, hence my direction of going for the screws.


Edited by AngryMidget on Tuesday 23 February 17:13

AngryMidget

Original Poster:

6,788 posts

115 months

Tuesday 23rd February 2016
quotequote all
Yup, no IAT2 logged (IAT1 of 26), but interestingly, the stock tune for the VXR8 does add timing below 35C of up to 4 degrees!

Looking at my data, only 1.5 degrees of timing were being pulled at 5836rpm in 5th towards the end of the run, got 1 degree KR straight after that till the end though but hadn't disabled burst knock retard by that point so not sure what caused that. What it does indicate that on the LSA at least, is that no timing was being pulled due to IATs, as the first cell to pull timing is at 40 degrees and that pulls 3 degrees.

You do have to remember that this is a factory setup blower though, so should be capable of a full run without overheating. Or so you would hope.

EDIT----

Actually, the RPM multiplier is @ 0.5, so IAT2 was therefor around 40 degrees at the end of the mile in the first band of timing being pulled.


Edited by AngryMidget on Tuesday 23 February 17:41

AngryMidget

Original Poster:

6,788 posts

115 months

Tuesday 23rd February 2016
quotequote all
Yup, they just have a habit of heat soaking with no airflow over the ic. Which is where the chiller comes into it'sown really.

AngryMidget

Original Poster:

6,788 posts

115 months

Tuesday 23rd February 2016
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I think all options together give the best outcome, only relying on the water/meth at full boost smile

AngryMidget

Original Poster:

6,788 posts

115 months

Wednesday 24th February 2016
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Boosted LS1 said:
You can have progressive water injection. It's really simple and carries no real weight.
It was more the consumable nature of it smile

MildlyAnnoyedMidget

Original Poster:

6,788 posts

115 months

Thursday 25th February 2016
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stevieturbo said:
GenF-GTS said:
I personally do not like the idea of water/meth or meth only injection as it is corrosive and has been shown to strip the teflon coating on the rotor group. Do a quick google image search "methanol blower rotors"
If you believe it may cause harm to the rotors, then dont inject prior to the rotors....simplez.
One of these would do the trick surely? Just change the nozzles? http://www.nitrousoutlet.com/lsa-blower-spacer-nit...