Clear protective car wrap
Discussion
Please can I have some help, Project TeaSpn is now 95% finished, complete with new 4.7 BR GT4 engine, twin clutch lightened flywheel, suspension, roll bar, big brakes ,intake and exhaust. Bodywork: N400 Sills, carbon knickers on the back, V12VS Carbon front (grille, bumper and splitter (new wheel arch liners and under tray)), my custom design HRE wheels. Interior still in progress but Zagato interior panels and roof lining fitted, I am so pleased and excited with the results. Honestly where do you stop when you start all this - Q would be proud 
Yesterday, TeaSpn had a beautiful full detail and think I should invest in a gloss clear wrap (so the paint looks shiny?). I know some of you (Bob Y100) and others have done this. Is it correct that there are some 'wrappers' who have pre-cut clear templates to apply straight on to our AM's?
Also any ideas how much something like this costs?
Yesterday, TeaSpn had a beautiful full detail and think I should invest in a gloss clear wrap (so the paint looks shiny?). I know some of you (Bob Y100) and others have done this. Is it correct that there are some 'wrappers' who have pre-cut clear templates to apply straight on to our AM's?Also any ideas how much something like this costs?
Hi team, great feedback
I agree with all that the rear wheel arches (front of rear wheel arch and bumper behind wheel arch), plus A-posts would be a good idea to do. I have been researching today...
3M VentureShield http://www.3mventureshield.co.uk (National Network of appointed Agents for 3M)
I found details for film covering the rear wheel arches: Tony James Designs in Solihull have this diagram on their website:
PaintSheild of Peterborough http://www.paintshield.co.uk,these guys are independent and carving their own good product in the market.
I also found US brand sold here: Suntek http://www.suntekfilms.com
The conversations with people at the company's I contacted, led to this information:
If you have
- a P&J that goes to shows, is gentle driving around and perhaps a "Trophy Car" then the more complete wrap is a viable option/investment as it is very expensive.
- a car which you have for full driving and maybe Track Days then the cost of the "full films" in not too sensible, so go for the areas exposed to stone attack. Here is why:
The Films take hits (going cloudy) from the acid in flies and bugs, it also take dents and marks from stones (peppering). If you have a full bonnet film, to replace (which you will need to do), is much more expensive as labour to remove and cost of new larger film is more expensive. It becomes quite easy to change a small half-film panel as and when you need.
Yellowing: Interesting, this was brought up by Tony James Designs.
AutoGlym and some polishes that have a yellowish colour straight out of the bottle, will stain the clear film (which is slightly porous). Therefore it is important that your film applicator company applies a final premium polish to fill in the pores on the film when they install your film.
There are also certain car paint colours which highlight yellowing/aging films (lighter colours like white or silver (Sorry Rob!)).
As a helper, any polish that is white in colour from the bottle, or is nearly water based is friendly near the films.
I agree with all that the rear wheel arches (front of rear wheel arch and bumper behind wheel arch), plus A-posts would be a good idea to do. I have been researching today...3M VentureShield http://www.3mventureshield.co.uk (National Network of appointed Agents for 3M)
I found details for film covering the rear wheel arches: Tony James Designs in Solihull have this diagram on their website:
PaintSheild of Peterborough http://www.paintshield.co.uk,these guys are independent and carving their own good product in the market.
I also found US brand sold here: Suntek http://www.suntekfilms.com
The conversations with people at the company's I contacted, led to this information:
If you have
- a P&J that goes to shows, is gentle driving around and perhaps a "Trophy Car" then the more complete wrap is a viable option/investment as it is very expensive.
- a car which you have for full driving and maybe Track Days then the cost of the "full films" in not too sensible, so go for the areas exposed to stone attack. Here is why:
The Films take hits (going cloudy) from the acid in flies and bugs, it also take dents and marks from stones (peppering). If you have a full bonnet film, to replace (which you will need to do), is much more expensive as labour to remove and cost of new larger film is more expensive. It becomes quite easy to change a small half-film panel as and when you need.
Yellowing: Interesting, this was brought up by Tony James Designs.
AutoGlym and some polishes that have a yellowish colour straight out of the bottle, will stain the clear film (which is slightly porous). Therefore it is important that your film applicator company applies a final premium polish to fill in the pores on the film when they install your film.
There are also certain car paint colours which highlight yellowing/aging films (lighter colours like white or silver (Sorry Rob!)).
As a helper, any polish that is white in colour from the bottle, or is nearly water based is friendly near the films.
V8 Animal said:
I can't find it on their website which is a bit odd.
It's this stuff
https://www.xpel.com/products/xpel_ultimate_paint_...
Thanks Paul, more film product to learn aboutIt's this stuff
https://www.xpel.com/products/xpel_ultimate_paint_...
Bob, Is the product supplied from Paintshield called Xpel, you only had one product applied to your car right?
Edited by W1111AM on Monday 9th June 18:24
J12MOC said:
I would definitely go for the full bonnet as even with the thin film the edge of the treated area shows up across the bonnet. On my last Aston I had a big rock land on the bonnet above where the film would end if partially covered. Luckily I had the full job so no damage!
I agree with you, the half bonnets always have a visible line - full bonnet! paddy328 said:
I have said this to everyone and will state it here again just to be clear. Paintshield are the best at what they do, they never cut on the car, as Joe designs everything in house and his designs are widely reguarded and the best in the industry. They also have the best product and give a warranty with each installation.
Most previous customers had expel on their car from paintshield, but due to the supply chain, they also use suntek now, which is just as good, if not better.
If you get your car done, ensure the paint is very good before the film goes on, so detailing, even new cars is recommended. Do not get anything other than self healing film. Non healing film will look worse over time, just like the paint it's protecting if you don't look after it and should it get scratched or swirled, there's nothing you can do, unlike a self healing film. I've seen cases where the installation guy has scratched the film while applying it and effectively left that section looking worse than before it was polished and there's nothing you can do about. That's something you don't get with a self healing film.
Another thing to check is the environment the film is being applied in, as it's very easy to get a fibre or dust under the film.
Francis
Bob and Francis, I am swayed by your self-healing film - this is a no-brainer... Thanks both!!Most previous customers had expel on their car from paintshield, but due to the supply chain, they also use suntek now, which is just as good, if not better.
If you get your car done, ensure the paint is very good before the film goes on, so detailing, even new cars is recommended. Do not get anything other than self healing film. Non healing film will look worse over time, just like the paint it's protecting if you don't look after it and should it get scratched or swirled, there's nothing you can do, unlike a self healing film. I've seen cases where the installation guy has scratched the film while applying it and effectively left that section looking worse than before it was polished and there's nothing you can do about. That's something you don't get with a self healing film.
Another thing to check is the environment the film is being applied in, as it's very easy to get a fibre or dust under the film.
Francis
I shall get a quote, then wonder to myself, what to do for the whole day, whilst my car is being done in Peterborough
Far Eastender said:
Nice, "gone to the dogs" Thanks
I am at Paintsheild currently having my car from wrapped in the new Suntek clear self healing film, it is very cool stuff! One thing I wanted to share is that they use pre-cut panels which they computer-cut to order, so there are no sharp knives anywhere near my P&J
Doing my work here on my laptop - mobile office!
Doing my work here on my laptop - mobile office!
Stayed at Paintsheild yesterday to watch TeaSpn being clear wrapped. I panel list:
Complete front:
Full bonnet
Full front wings
Front bumper
Wing mirrors
Extras:
Custom made roof panel for my recently painted black roof (to enhance the glass look)
Carbon splitter
Carbon lips grille
Front of rear wheel arches
I have included some images below. The important feedback from my trip is this:
This film being used at Paintsheild now is their series II film, it is brand: Suntek from the USA, self-healing as you would hope. We did test scratching with a jeweller's brass wire brush on an existing bonnet and within minutes it was self healing! When warm water was poured over it, there was instant healing. Awesome.
Jo the designer at Paintsheild computer cuts all the panels prior to fitting whilst you are there. This meant that he could draw the new profiles for the carbon lips and roof which had not been done before. The pre-cut panels mean there is no knives around
I have the new GTec Serum from Paddy in the rest of the car and my HRE wheels. The pre-preparation of paint prior to getting clear wrap fitted is essential!
Thanks to Paddy !!!
Thanks to Paintsheild team !!
I am very very happy man... My P&J is now well protected
The picture shows the pre-cut bonnet panel fitted and edge of bonnet about to be folded:
Ask me any questions, hope the photos do some justice to the lovely depth in the clear coating.
Complete front:
Full bonnet
Full front wings
Front bumper
Wing mirrors
Extras:
Custom made roof panel for my recently painted black roof (to enhance the glass look)
Carbon splitter
Carbon lips grille
Front of rear wheel arches
I have included some images below. The important feedback from my trip is this:
This film being used at Paintsheild now is their series II film, it is brand: Suntek from the USA, self-healing as you would hope. We did test scratching with a jeweller's brass wire brush on an existing bonnet and within minutes it was self healing! When warm water was poured over it, there was instant healing. Awesome.
Jo the designer at Paintsheild computer cuts all the panels prior to fitting whilst you are there. This meant that he could draw the new profiles for the carbon lips and roof which had not been done before. The pre-cut panels mean there is no knives around
I have the new GTec Serum from Paddy in the rest of the car and my HRE wheels. The pre-preparation of paint prior to getting clear wrap fitted is essential!
Thanks to Paddy !!!
Thanks to Paintsheild team !!
I am very very happy man... My P&J is now well protected
The picture shows the pre-cut bonnet panel fitted and edge of bonnet about to be folded:
Ask me any questions, hope the photos do some justice to the lovely depth in the clear coating.
Woow some good metal there!
BTW your HRE's are looking nice!
Thanks Mike
Looking good mate. You certainly have a very well protected teaspoon. The paintshield guys are the best at what they do.
Thanks Paddy, you're a legendary detailing man (also a legend within the WI - The Cake Club Ambassador )
Looks superb. Just remember 'don't touch the bubbles'
Simon, thanks, it is a nightmare all you want to do prod any little bubbles you find (there are not too many fortunately) It takes around 7-11 days for the water under the film to completely evaporate I am told. I month for the film to then harden fully. No car washing for a week for me now!
Thanks for the write up,useful info that helps other owners.
Your car looks excellent.
Met the guv of Paintshield at The George,Stamford,had a chat,nice bloke.
Steven, you're most welcome Sir Yes Tom is the MD. He said he met up with quite a few AM people at The George before Burghley House, apparently there was quite a bit of alcohol consumed 
BTW your HRE's are looking nice!
Thanks Mike
Looking good mate. You certainly have a very well protected teaspoon. The paintshield guys are the best at what they do.
Thanks Paddy, you're a legendary detailing man (also a legend within the WI - The Cake Club Ambassador
)Looks superb. Just remember 'don't touch the bubbles'
Simon, thanks, it is a nightmare
all you want to do prod any little bubbles you find (there are not too many fortunately) It takes around 7-11 days for the water under the film to completely evaporate I am told. I month for the film to then harden fully. No car washing for a week for me now!Thanks for the write up,useful info that helps other owners.
Your car looks excellent.
Met the guv of Paintshield at The George,Stamford,had a chat,nice bloke.
Steven, you're most welcome Sir
Yes Tom is the MD. He said he met up with quite a few AM people at The George before Burghley House, apparently there was quite a bit of alcohol consumed V8V12VTECwoollie said:
W1111AM said:
Looks superb. Just remember 'don't touch the bubbles'
Simon, thanks, it is a nightmare all you want to do prod any little bubbles you find (there are not too many fortunately) It takes around 7-11 days for the water under the film to completely evaporate I am told. I month for the film to then harden fully. No car washing for a week for me now!
Yes, you don't get many of them which is a relief and they usually all go quite quickly.Simon, thanks, it is a nightmare
all you want to do prod any little bubbles you find (there are not too many fortunately) It takes around 7-11 days for the water under the film to completely evaporate I am told. I month for the film to then harden fully. No car washing for a week for me now!Anne at PS told me how to get rid of any stubborn ones. I had one left on the front of the nearside sill and it just wouldn't go even after six weeks and standing the car in nice warm sunshine, but the way to do it is easy as a last resort.
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