suspension help
Discussion
Right for months I have battled with the standard suspension on my 675 and as I find my pace increasing I am struggling like hell.
I am 11 st roughly give or take. At first the suspension wasn't bad when I was just playing at track days but the faster I get the harder I have to work, and I mean coming in exhausted, come the end of twenty minutes I feel like dying. I physically have to force the bar in to get it to turn. I mean all my weight. Before I was getting moderate to decent lean angles, knee down stuff. If im pushing up im practically falling off the bike sideways and it seems bolt up right. At croft yesterday, corners I got my knee down on a full road bike im no where near. I know the answer but ill ask, should it be this physical fighting with the bike? Should I feel like im in a wrestling match every corner. Its getting worse and worse the faster I get. I know im not quick but its just ridiculous now.
I loosened the rear shock off to have a decent amount of sag, but I couldn't ride in that position, it lowered it causing me to be cramped within minutes. To make it work with riding position I have to adjust it so it has less than 1" of sag. Its like a concrete slab.
Now, I know I need new springs for my weight. The front I suspect just a set of k-techs springs, what are the advantages of a piston kit?
As for the rear, its pretty obvious I need a new rear spring. but is the standard shock up to it. Right and before someone goes, "ha you think your good enough to beat stock shocks", im after advice if that shock is a piece of pish or does it just need a spring change and a refresh it is ten years old now.
can you also give me a rough price. im jobless at the moment and don't want to spend thousands but don't want a quick fix
I don't want to go mental im no where near racing standards but I want something I can use on the track. As I say, last year it was knee down mucking about stuff, but tip toeing around. I still am but I'm much quicker than I was before and its just unbearable. I watch other riders and try to follow. Yesterday at croft I take the same lines they seem smooth and relaxed, I go through it and im getting flung about, head bobbing, arse out the seat getting flung into the tank, flung forward under braking. I need to do something or ill just give up with track days.
I realise this is a bit specific for my bike, hence why I asked on 675.cc but it cant hurt asking here.
I am 11 st roughly give or take. At first the suspension wasn't bad when I was just playing at track days but the faster I get the harder I have to work, and I mean coming in exhausted, come the end of twenty minutes I feel like dying. I physically have to force the bar in to get it to turn. I mean all my weight. Before I was getting moderate to decent lean angles, knee down stuff. If im pushing up im practically falling off the bike sideways and it seems bolt up right. At croft yesterday, corners I got my knee down on a full road bike im no where near. I know the answer but ill ask, should it be this physical fighting with the bike? Should I feel like im in a wrestling match every corner. Its getting worse and worse the faster I get. I know im not quick but its just ridiculous now.
I loosened the rear shock off to have a decent amount of sag, but I couldn't ride in that position, it lowered it causing me to be cramped within minutes. To make it work with riding position I have to adjust it so it has less than 1" of sag. Its like a concrete slab.
Now, I know I need new springs for my weight. The front I suspect just a set of k-techs springs, what are the advantages of a piston kit?
As for the rear, its pretty obvious I need a new rear spring. but is the standard shock up to it. Right and before someone goes, "ha you think your good enough to beat stock shocks", im after advice if that shock is a piece of pish or does it just need a spring change and a refresh it is ten years old now.
can you also give me a rough price. im jobless at the moment and don't want to spend thousands but don't want a quick fix
I don't want to go mental im no where near racing standards but I want something I can use on the track. As I say, last year it was knee down mucking about stuff, but tip toeing around. I still am but I'm much quicker than I was before and its just unbearable. I watch other riders and try to follow. Yesterday at croft I take the same lines they seem smooth and relaxed, I go through it and im getting flung about, head bobbing, arse out the seat getting flung into the tank, flung forward under braking. I need to do something or ill just give up with track days.
I realise this is a bit specific for my bike, hence why I asked on 675.cc but it cant hurt asking here.
Tim85 said:
in all honesty could it be something in your head? i know you feel like your not getting on with it i just dont know if spending £££ your going to come away feeling any better about it. Theres nothing wrong with buying trick bits and even if it just gets your mind feeling better about it then its worth it but personally and being similar pace/group ive never felt like i really needed to change any suspension settings on any bike i ride and i probably have a worse effect on standard suspension being 15-16 stone.
its not in my head, its just not. I have less than a inch of play on the rear shock. I need new springs at the very least. Its not something that happens every once and a while, its all the time. Before I was getting my knee down more often than not at certain corners, now its nothing, no where close but faster pace. I just cant get any lean.bikes are setup for guys around your weight, not spot on but within a window. that shock has to be able to carry a pillion as well, its not within my range.
bass gt3 said:
neelyp said:
When we tried to get more sag but the preload rings were right at the top of the thread so there was no more adjustment left.
Ok, well that's not good. A spring needs a degree of static preload so you shouldn't be winding it out so far. The normal is around 12mm The thing to do here is figure out he fitted spring weight. It's very possible that a previous owner fitted a very heavy spring to replace the standard item. At 11st, you're well within the standard spring range, you shouldn't be having any trouble.
Out of interest, with the spring completely unwound, what sag numbers were you getting?
This could be the case. The previous owner was a fair size man. I test rode one and it handled like a house fly turned in so quick and was great. Now it's unbearable on mines.
Could it be he had a stiff shock. That would explain a lot.
Hooli said:
fergus said:
moanthebairns said:
Its my legs that come up.
As i increase sag ride height drops
With my feet on the pegs I simply cannot move around the bike. It's not just a case of. Oh that's a bit more comfy it's the inability to ride it
Surely once you're on the bike with your feet up, the ride height doesn't affect your riding position, as changing the sag won't affect the relationship between rearsets, seat and clip ons?As i increase sag ride height drops
With my feet on the pegs I simply cannot move around the bike. It's not just a case of. Oh that's a bit more comfy it's the inability to ride it
roboxm3 said:
moanthebairns said:
It does. We measured the peg height at the changes and there was a considerable difference. Let's remember I'm on the last threads of the shock as well and still not achieving the correct sag
The peg height from the floor might be altered but not in relation to any of the other bits, they're all bolted to the same frame...??ETA. Imagine riding a bike where relative position of bars, seat and pegs altered with suspension travel...now imagine it being an MX bike...not possible, surely!?
Edited by roboxm3 on Tuesday 21st April 15:22
SAS Tom said:
moanthebairns said:
It does. We measured the peg height at the changes and there was a considerable difference. Let's remember I'm on the last threads of the shock as well and still not achieving the correct sag
The peg height in relation to the seat doesn't change so wouldn't affect how comfortable you are.
king about with them a few days ago. Physical fitness has nothing to do with this. I rode a daytona before and it handled so much better than mimes.
My rear shock is 10 years old and due a rebuild. Also believe it or not I'm not unfit. I'm 27 And whilst I eat and smoke s
t I'd dare to say my fitness is of a higher standard than most on here I can still run for 60 minutes playing 5sIts not fitness or start of the season I've done 5. I've always thought it.
Everyone om here says the standard is fine. Ok I'm in no position to say they are wrong. But when I went to see the suspension guys at croft he said. We can do the best with whst we have but for your weight I'd be looking at new springs.
The local suspension sspecialist when I quoted my weight also said straight away mew springs
Now This could just be to make a few quid but these are the people who I've been listening to.
My rearsets are as low as can go.
I'll need to get photos of the shock
Everyone om here says the standard is fine. Ok I'm in no position to say they are wrong. But when I went to see the suspension guys at croft he said. We can do the best with whst we have but for your weight I'd be looking at new springs.
The local suspension sspecialist when I quoted my weight also said straight away mew springs
Now This could just be to make a few quid but these are the people who I've been listening to.
My rearsets are as low as can go.
I'll need to get photos of the shock
No markings on the spring.
Mckeann has kindly offered to do the sag with me again checking it
He also pointed out his mate had the same issue. He found out as he turned in he was pushing on the inside bar but not Pulling the outside inward.
I'll be honest. I don't even think of that any more it just happens. So perhaps I need to go back to basics and pull. I'm pretty sure I just push the inside and the outside is doing nothing. Perhaps that would explain why I'm struggling now I'm quicker.
Also there is a linkage thing that changes the way the rear shock works. Perhaps bass could explain as I'm sure he mentioned before.
If bass figures are correct I can only get it whilst on the top thread of the spring.
Whilst I appreciate the input I'm not saying anyone is wrong Or I'm not listening. It's just I have one person saying this sag. Another this. A source thus. Experts telling me get new springs. Others saying it's fine.
Mckeann has kindly offered to do the sag with me again checking it
He also pointed out his mate had the same issue. He found out as he turned in he was pushing on the inside bar but not Pulling the outside inward.
I'll be honest. I don't even think of that any more it just happens. So perhaps I need to go back to basics and pull. I'm pretty sure I just push the inside and the outside is doing nothing. Perhaps that would explain why I'm struggling now I'm quicker.
Also there is a linkage thing that changes the way the rear shock works. Perhaps bass could explain as I'm sure he mentioned before.
If bass figures are correct I can only get it whilst on the top thread of the spring.
Whilst I appreciate the input I'm not saying anyone is wrong Or I'm not listening. It's just I have one person saying this sag. Another this. A source thus. Experts telling me get new springs. Others saying it's fine.
http://www.675.cc/675/threads/fork-springs-rate.14...
Interesting read.
It's widely acknowledged on 675 the rear shock is too stiff and they can vary from spring to spring. Source T3 racing. So it could not be all in my head.
Interesting read.
It's widely acknowledged on 675 the rear shock is too stiff and they can vary from spring to spring. Source T3 racing. So it could not be all in my head.
Done some calculations. I'm A 9 in the infront. So seems I have the right springs in thE stock suspension as that's. 9 this was set up by suspension specialists and I have no real problems with that
Its
the rear. Who knows. But I'm tempted to just get a new spring for 85 for my weight. The standard ones are wisely acknowledge d as being st as I say.
Its
the rear. Who knows. But I'm tempted to just get a new spring for 85 for my weight. The standard ones are wisely acknowledge d as being s
t as I say. Tim85 said:
moanthebairns said:
http://www.675.cc/675/threads/fork-springs-rate.14...
Interesting read.
It's widely acknowledged on 675 the rear shock is too stiff and they can vary from spring to spring. Source T3 racing. So it could not be all in my head.
All I got from that is every bike is different and every suspension specialist will tell you something different. I'd really just go to a trusted suspension place and do what they say. Interesting read.
It's widely acknowledged on 675 the rear shock is too stiff and they can vary from spring to spring. Source T3 racing. So it could not be all in my head.
Getting it set up still won't have any bearing on how cramped you feel on the bike though, surely that's a different issue.
We measured the exhaust and it's ten mm lower to the ground. I know what people are saying the pegs are mounted of the frame that's not changing. But when you cant lower the pegs any more and your arse has now dropped ten mm and you cramp up in seconds I can't ride it. That's it. It doesn't matter how it's happening I can't ride it at that setting.
Maybe I'm being a bit special here but I've had two guys from suspension setups tell me that spring is too stiff for my weight.
I've fought it for years.
I've ridden one before and it felt golden. I then find out every spring is different or can be and the earlier models have crap springs.
It's on the last thread to get it comfortable and sag which I've been told is a no no.
It's widely acknowledged by other owners the springs are too stiff.
I've ridden the unadjusted street and loved it, the spring at the back was spot on. My dad however found that s
t. Too soft. It's known the daytona is too stiff the street is too soft. Not trying to be funny but Yazza had the same with a bike he had known for 30 seconds. He took it in and found out the springs were the wrong ones. I've had this bike 3 years. I've done a fair bit more Track days than Yazz, I've fought it from day one, but i get, your not fit enough. Rusted head bearings, its in the head, etc taken all into consideration, others complaining of the same, two suspension specialists, myself, etc why did Yazza get nil of this
Firstly I appreciate the advice.
Problem is, every time I fk about with it I have to wait until I'm on the track to find out how it is as its not road legal.
I know what everyone is saying but my rearsets are adjustable and as far back, whilst being as low as they can. I cannot work it out as well, my Dad and myself are sitting there looking at it going, how the fk do they change as they are on the frame. they shouldn't but my under seat exhaust moves down ten mm to the ground, my dads measured it and told me this, this is arching my knees into myself as the pegs don't change, I'm trying not to be wilfully dense honestly I am, but when your seat, that is only 6 inches away from the exhaust moves down ten mm isn't it logical that the seat also moves, to a degree.
I'm going to take Mckeann up on the offer to set it all up correctly.
I forgot that loosing all the road fairings would alter it, that's a fair bit weight right there
I also forgot that the seat unit I got sits much higher than the standard seat. it has a mounting plate that sits over the battery increasing the ride height by a fair bit. I had to take it off at oulton and use the stock seat as I was too cramped up, having the adjustable pegs solved this but its clearly still a issue.
Ive only every raised my forks through the yoke to triumphs recommendation for the road.
Part of me is tempted just to the bike to the suspension guy, sit on it and get him to do the work, there Is just too mamy variables and I underestimated how much of a black art this is. Everytime I read more and understand it a bit more I change something and its a pile of ste on the track wasting my time on there.
I have to weight up, is it worth the money to get it setup correctly or fk about with it wasting track days.
Problem is, every time I f
k about with it I have to wait until I'm on the track to find out how it is as its not road legal.I know what everyone is saying but my rearsets are adjustable and as far back, whilst being as low as they can. I cannot work it out as well, my Dad and myself are sitting there looking at it going, how the f
k do they change as they are on the frame. they shouldn't but my under seat exhaust moves down ten mm to the ground, my dads measured it and told me this, this is arching my knees into myself as the pegs don't change, I'm trying not to be wilfully dense honestly I am, but when your seat, that is only 6 inches away from the exhaust moves down ten mm isn't it logical that the seat also moves, to a degree. I'm going to take Mckeann up on the offer to set it all up correctly.
I forgot that loosing all the road fairings would alter it, that's a fair bit weight right there
I also forgot that the seat unit I got sits much higher than the standard seat. it has a mounting plate that sits over the battery increasing the ride height by a fair bit. I had to take it off at oulton and use the stock seat as I was too cramped up, having the adjustable pegs solved this but its clearly still a issue.
Ive only every raised my forks through the yoke to triumphs recommendation for the road.
Part of me is tempted just to the bike to the suspension guy, sit on it and get him to do the work, there Is just too mamy variables and I underestimated how much of a black art this is. Everytime I read more and understand it a bit more I change something and its a pile of s
te on the track wasting my time on there. I have to weight up, is it worth the money to get it setup correctly or f
k about with it wasting track days. Edited by moanthebairns on Wednesday 22 April 11:09
we all are remembering that the Daytona has an under seat exhaust?
seriously, I'm going to take one more time at explaining this then admit failure and shut up because, I just cannot grasp this as it seems logical to me but possibly its my poor explanations.
I increase the sag to Bass gt3's recommendations. As I do this it reaches the top of the notches on the spring. ok.
INSTANTLY, I now can touch my feet flat on the floor. I'm not joking. Seriously I went that's fking odd.
we turned it back to what it was before with the 1" setup of rear sag, as confirmed as being ok with the suspension guy at croft.
My dad picked the tip of the underseat exhaust and measured it to the ground.
his next reading to the ground from the rear was 10 mm lower.
If his readings are correct and my instant feeling that its lower is also correct without sitting on the thing something is happening.
as the underseat exhaust moves to the ground, It brings with it the seat on the subframe, it has to as its a race seat and the mounts for this are right at the tip of the exhaust. Surely, I honestly aint trying to be dense here, or not listen, but when you measure that isn't it possible that my arse is now lets say the extreme 10 mm lower with this race seat unit.
my peg position cant change any lower, imagine squatting for a st, but not sitting down, move your arse down ten mm, you are now increasing the bend radius at your knee. the front hasn't moved at all, exaggerating the effect whilst riding, your feet are at the same point, but your arse is 10mm lower. This causes me to cramp up more on the bike.
Is this just gibberish. if so I cannot get my head around why this wouldn't be the case.
seriously, I'm going to take one more time at explaining this then admit failure and shut up because, I just cannot grasp this as it seems logical to me but possibly its my poor explanations.
I increase the sag to Bass gt3's recommendations. As I do this it reaches the top of the notches on the spring. ok.
INSTANTLY, I now can touch my feet flat on the floor. I'm not joking. Seriously I went that's f
king odd.we turned it back to what it was before with the 1" setup of rear sag, as confirmed as being ok with the suspension guy at croft.
My dad picked the tip of the underseat exhaust and measured it to the ground.
his next reading to the ground from the rear was 10 mm lower.
If his readings are correct and my instant feeling that its lower is also correct without sitting on the thing something is happening.
as the underseat exhaust moves to the ground, It brings with it the seat on the subframe, it has to as its a race seat and the mounts for this are right at the tip of the exhaust. Surely, I honestly aint trying to be dense here, or not listen, but when you measure that isn't it possible that my arse is now lets say the extreme 10 mm lower with this race seat unit.
my peg position cant change any lower, imagine squatting for a s
t, but not sitting down, move your arse down ten mm, you are now increasing the bend radius at your knee. the front hasn't moved at all, exaggerating the effect whilst riding, your feet are at the same point, but your arse is 10mm lower. This causes me to cramp up more on the bike.Is this just gibberish. if so I cannot get my head around why this wouldn't be the case.
I also should further explain.
My seat unit has two bolts that sit almost at the tip of the exhaust.
there is then on bolt 5 dia bolt that goes through into the holding. The thing is its not like the stock seat that never moves. this has a bit of "flex" in it. If I wanted to I could pull it up 10 mm easy whilst lifting from the seat area but nil at the back as it has to secure mounting points and NO FLEX.
Could it be that, with the stock seat (that never moves) and the subframe points that get closer never drop (noticeably) that with this aftermarket poorly fitted seat unit, because its not tight down AT THE SEAT and has some flex, as the exhaust bracket mounting points lower, it acts as a counter lever at the loosely clamping mounting point. On a stock seat this would wouldn't happen the slope stays the same, but what im now doing is pulling it up a tad as there is a bit of play, if you pull the seat at the battery point, where you would sit it will pull up 10 mm easy? this would flatten the seat out giving me a awkward riding position
This seems so logical to me, im a fking designer for fk sake this should be a piece of pish.
of course the only other thing is that whilst doing these measurements I have rocked the bike back or forward on to the tiny slope in the garage. Giving false readings and feel or my dad hasn't taken them correctly
My seat unit has two bolts that sit almost at the tip of the exhaust.
there is then on bolt 5 dia bolt that goes through into the holding. The thing is its not like the stock seat that never moves. this has a bit of "flex" in it. If I wanted to I could pull it up 10 mm easy whilst lifting from the seat area but nil at the back as it has to secure mounting points and NO FLEX.
Could it be that, with the stock seat (that never moves) and the subframe points that get closer never drop (noticeably) that with this aftermarket poorly fitted seat unit, because its not tight down AT THE SEAT and has some flex, as the exhaust bracket mounting points lower, it acts as a counter lever at the loosely clamping mounting point. On a stock seat this would wouldn't happen the slope stays the same, but what im now doing is pulling it up a tad as there is a bit of play, if you pull the seat at the battery point, where you would sit it will pull up 10 mm easy? this would flatten the seat out giving me a awkward riding position
This seems so logical to me, im a f
king designer for fk sake this should be a piece of pish. of course the only other thing is that whilst doing these measurements I have rocked the bike back or forward on to the tiny slope in the garage. Giving false readings and feel or my dad hasn't taken them correctly
bass gt3 said:
I think you're hexing yourself and getting all spooked by it. It really isn't hard as long as you observe the process.
The most important is sag. This is critical. If this is wrong, do not pass go, do not collect 200 quid, do not enjoy your TD.
So follow this STEP BY STEP. DO Not jump/assume/fudge/over-think any of the following...
For the front
1. Count how many turns of preload the forks have from fully out to fully in
2. Set the preload adjuster on both forks to the half way number of the previous finding
3. Lift the front of the bike off the ground completely
4. Measure the distance from the top of the fork foot to the bottom edge of the fork wiper. This is how much Shiny slider is showing.
5. Put the bike back on the ground.
6. Get on the bike in your full riding gear
7. Assume your normal riding position with BOTH feet on the pegs
8. Measure the distance from the top of the fork foot to the bottom edge of the fork wiper. This is how much Shiny slider is showing.
9. Subtract the measurement found in 8 from the measurement found in 4
10. Is the result around 30-40% of value in 4?
11. If close, adjust the preload nuts to achieve a value 30-40% of value in 4
For a fork with 125mm full extension, road sag is good around 35 to 45mm and 30 to 40 mm for track
For the rear
1. Measure the preload of the rear spring by measuring from the top of the spring to the last thread on the shaft that a collar can wind out to. Usual number for 1 is 12-14mm however it's likely the Triumph manual will tell you this.
2. Set the rear preload to the required value in 1
3. Lift the rear of the bike off the ground completely
4. Measure the distance from the rear axle to a reference point vertically above the axle. A piece of Duct tape can be affixed to provide reference point.
5. Put the bike back on the ground.
6. Get on the bike in your full riding gear
7. Assume your normal riding position with BOTH feet on the pegs
8. Measure the distance from the rear axle to the reference point vertically above the axle.
9. Subtract the measurement found in 8 from the measurement found in 4
10. Is the value derived in 9 35 to 40mm for road riding or 30 to 35mm for track?
11. If close, adjust the preload collar to achieve the value in 10
So go do it right.....
printed thanks very much, easy to understand when you say it like thatThe most important is sag. This is critical. If this is wrong, do not pass go, do not collect 200 quid, do not enjoy your TD.
So follow this STEP BY STEP. DO Not jump/assume/fudge/over-think any of the following...
For the front
1. Count how many turns of preload the forks have from fully out to fully in
2. Set the preload adjuster on both forks to the half way number of the previous finding
3. Lift the front of the bike off the ground completely
4. Measure the distance from the top of the fork foot to the bottom edge of the fork wiper. This is how much Shiny slider is showing.
5. Put the bike back on the ground.
6. Get on the bike in your full riding gear
7. Assume your normal riding position with BOTH feet on the pegs
8. Measure the distance from the top of the fork foot to the bottom edge of the fork wiper. This is how much Shiny slider is showing.
9. Subtract the measurement found in 8 from the measurement found in 4
10. Is the result around 30-40% of value in 4?
11. If close, adjust the preload nuts to achieve a value 30-40% of value in 4
For a fork with 125mm full extension, road sag is good around 35 to 45mm and 30 to 40 mm for track
For the rear
1. Measure the preload of the rear spring by measuring from the top of the spring to the last thread on the shaft that a collar can wind out to. Usual number for 1 is 12-14mm however it's likely the Triumph manual will tell you this.
2. Set the rear preload to the required value in 1
3. Lift the rear of the bike off the ground completely
4. Measure the distance from the rear axle to a reference point vertically above the axle. A piece of Duct tape can be affixed to provide reference point.
5. Put the bike back on the ground.
6. Get on the bike in your full riding gear
7. Assume your normal riding position with BOTH feet on the pegs
8. Measure the distance from the rear axle to the reference point vertically above the axle.
9. Subtract the measurement found in 8 from the measurement found in 4
10. Is the value derived in 9 35 to 40mm for road riding or 30 to 35mm for track?
11. If close, adjust the preload collar to achieve the value in 10
So go do it right.....
Edited by bass gt3 on Wednesday 22 April 11:23
Prof Prolapse said:
moanthebairns said:
I also should further explain.
My seat unit has two bolts that sit almost at the tip of the exhaust.
there is then on bolt 5 dia bolt that goes through into the holding. The thing is its not like the stock seat that never moves. this has a bit of "flex" in it. If I wanted to I could pull it up 10 mm easy whilst lifting from the seat area but nil at the back as it has to secure mounting points and NO FLEX.
Could it be that, with the stock seat (that never moves) and the subframe points that get closer never drop (noticeably) that with this aftermarket poorly fitted seat unit, because its not tight down AT THE SEAT and has some flex, as the exhaust bracket mounting points lower, it acts as a counter lever at the loosely clamping mounting point. On a stock seat this would wouldn't happen the slope stays the same, but what im now doing is pulling it up a tad as there is a bit of play, if you pull the seat at the battery point, where you would sit it will pull up 10 mm easy? this would flatten the seat out giving me a awkward riding position
This seems so logical to me, im a fking designer for fk sake this should be a piece of pish.
of course the only other thing is that whilst doing these measurements I have rocked the bike back or forward on to the tiny slope in the garage. Giving false readings and feel or my dad hasn't taken them correctly
It doesn't make sense to me mate.My seat unit has two bolts that sit almost at the tip of the exhaust.
there is then on bolt 5 dia bolt that goes through into the holding. The thing is its not like the stock seat that never moves. this has a bit of "flex" in it. If I wanted to I could pull it up 10 mm easy whilst lifting from the seat area but nil at the back as it has to secure mounting points and NO FLEX.
Could it be that, with the stock seat (that never moves) and the subframe points that get closer never drop (noticeably) that with this aftermarket poorly fitted seat unit, because its not tight down AT THE SEAT and has some flex, as the exhaust bracket mounting points lower, it acts as a counter lever at the loosely clamping mounting point. On a stock seat this would wouldn't happen the slope stays the same, but what im now doing is pulling it up a tad as there is a bit of play, if you pull the seat at the battery point, where you would sit it will pull up 10 mm easy? this would flatten the seat out giving me a awkward riding position
This seems so logical to me, im a f
king designer for fk sake this should be a piece of pish. of course the only other thing is that whilst doing these measurements I have rocked the bike back or forward on to the tiny slope in the garage. Giving false readings and feel or my dad hasn't taken them correctly
Nothing bolted to the frame will move relative to itself. Only the swinging arm in relation to the rest of the bike, and the frame relative to the ground, hence getting your feet on the floor.
A) im wrong which seems the case. But im sat there going look at this. it doesn't feel right and my dad confirms it moves it. we've measure it.
or
B) my dads f
ked the readings up, ill give him the benefit of the doubt but he is a tiff and doesn't measure things for a livingC) I have inadvertently wheeled my bike back or forward to the slight slope towards the threshold during all this giving a false reading.
D) f
k it im buying a scooter. I take on board every things that's been said but when im looing at the readings they cannot lie, if they are correct.
bass gt3 said:
moanthebairns said:
printed thanks very much, easy to understand when you say it like that
What I didn't say is that if you can't achieve the correct sag numbers with a few turns either side of the centre point then yes, you need new springs. If the forks have 10 turns of preload, set it to 5 for the measurements and ideally go no further than 2 turnsto7turns. More turns is worse as it indicates you're trying to compensate for a weak spring. Also remember that each turn of front preload lifts the front of the bike by 1mm.Might not seem much but can really affect the geometry and feel of the bike
All setup now within range.
Few things that might have fked me around the first time.
I must have wheeled it back on to the sslight slope in my garage making me thing it was adjusting the height.
Cold tyres.
Let me explain. I left my pressures in from Anglesey it was 18 degrees and I never checked them I'm the morning. Forgot. IBe taken my warmers off then went and got nose tested then when out with them cold. I've done three sighting laps which is normally enough to get them up to temperature but then someone crashed and when we went back out only got two Laps so not up to temp again
I came in thinking ice ruined it with the suspension changed it straight away then again out.
Also the seat was rather loose and the mount
It must Loosen in transport.
So I'll see how I get on at donnie.
Few things that might have f
ked me around the first time. I must have wheeled it back on to the sslight slope in my garage making me thing it was adjusting the height.
Cold tyres.
Let me explain. I left my pressures in from Anglesey it was 18 degrees and I never checked them I'm the morning. Forgot. IBe taken my warmers off then went and got nose tested then when out with them cold. I've done three sighting laps which is normally enough to get them up to temperature but then someone crashed and when we went back out only got two Laps so not up to temp again
I came in thinking ice ruined it with the suspension changed it straight away then again out.
Also the seat was rather loose and the mount
It must Loosen in transport.
So I'll see how I get on at donnie.
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