Fireblade upgrades/jobs. Help and info please

[MotorsportTom]

I think most of you know about my bike and how it forever seems to be having money spent on it in terms of maintenance/upgrades as I go. If you don't know about it then it's this >

So really I have quite a few little jobs coming up on it so I am seeking advice/internet strangers to spend my money.

So firstly I have been looking at sorting out the sloppy gear lever which I think is currently being caused by the worn rod ends, now having looked the parts to sort it all come to £50-or so and a S/H lever assy is £30 approx but it's a gamble not knowing if it will be any better!

Naturally this led me to looking at rear sets on ebay and I noticed the price of Danmoto rear sets. Now I know the general consensus of Chinese stuff is steer clear but a few forums from a couple of years back have members rating them well and it is a named brand rather than just being someone that cna pop up and disappear. So are they worth taking a punt on for £95 plus delivery?
Having looked they are made from 6065T6 alu so unless they are too thin etc I can't see how they can be bad? I'd replace any bolts with stuff from work so that's a moot point. Has anyone owned these? Seen them used? Anything to add?

Also shipping from China any idea of any import duties I may need to pay? Google is being a pain and I'm tired (please don't slate me)


Another job I need to do is the CCT as it's starting to get noisy, I don't see the point in taking it apart and attempting to clean it as per a Honda garage's recommendation I may as well do it and know the job is done.
Anybody done one on these engines? Is it a massive ballache?
Is it worth changing to a manual CCT? How often do they need adjusting?

I'm planning to service a spare rear shock I have for the bike too, any known direct bolt up improvements from another model that is worth looking at first or is the standard shock up to scratch providing it's working well (at the moment it's all spring and no damping... whoops)


Enough waffle, fill me with your wisdom oh BB. Spend all the money I don't have on things I may or may not need!

[MotorsportTom]

SAS Tom said:

Not sure on the quality of the Chinese rearsets but I had a similar problem with my Thunderace and changing the rearsets made the gearbox much better to use as there is no play now in the joints.

I think realistically servicing the standard shock will be fine. Yes a fancy new one will be better but I doubt you'd find any massive issues with standard. One of the track days I did at oulton showed no difference in time after my shock let all of it's oil out compared to when it was fine.

See I did think it would be fine because realistically it's a 3 way adjustable shock anyway, just wondered if I could find/mount a piggyback shock instead as they are just so much cooler... and because shiny.

Lincsblokey said:

Im building one at the minute, weve bought the airbox kit, shift detent star kit and few other bits from erion racing in states, 17" front wheel, and currently experimenting with a 2007 fireblade standard but resprung shock to work out damping etc.

We have also bought the danmoto rearsets, ill be honest, the quality doesnt look too bad at all, maybe a bet better than the 100 RP rearsets on ebay..

Let me know how you get on with the 2007 shock as I'd be interested in knowing how well it works.

Glad to hear they sound ok, I'm getting seriously tempted just to take a punt, any idea about any extra charges being put on because of customs/import or whatever it is?

Gecko1978 said:

what car is that in the background...sorry not helpful just interested

It's a Sebring kit car that's used for racing... or should I say will be. I don't know a massive amount about it but I can ask the guy who owns it a few questions if you'd like?

[MotorsportTom]

Hmm...

Whoops.

Well good news on the CCT, it sounds like the manual CCT is going to be a bigger ballache than the auto. How advised is it to change the chain and guide at the same time? I know doing it on the cheap isn't the best but it might mean the difference of a trackday before April...

Cheers for all the feedback so far, much appreciated!

[MotorsportTom]

Prof Prolapse said:

I'd probably go for an automatic next time as well.

Why are you looking to change the chain and guides? Unless it's indicated by the manual or you've good reason to suspect it needs done I wouldn't touch it.

I've only done chain and guides it when doing clearances so everything was apart anyway. Someone more experienced will be able to advise if you can just remove the camshaft sprockets and fit with camshafts in place. That would be fairly straight forward if you could.

Alternatively wait until you're doing clearances. It all comes off for that anyway. In fact if you haven't got evidence of this or carb balancing I would make both jobs a priority.

Edited by Prof Prolapse on Thursday 11th February 11:59

Valve clearances I have no record of because I changed the engine for a supposed low miler but have no history with.

My only thought for doing chain and guides was "I'm in there anyway". Carb balancing was already on my list it's just getting round to doing it because I need the bike everyday so it makes it a little annoying.

[MotorsportTom]

Ah see I haven't even looked into the location of the CCT, just assumed it was an internal component! I wish I had done the clearances on the deck rather than having to think about it in the bike... it may get left a little while, she starts and runs fine so I won't worry too much atm.

Gecko1978 said:

First off I am not an expert or even a plucky amateur when it comes to mechnics so my advice my be rubbish, however this being the internet that should not stop me dispensing it :-)

Having read variouse magazines over the years the key to impriving performance seems to be adding "lightness" (I think that is a lotusisum). So as you seem to be very handy with the spanners an what not why not go to racebolt online and replace all the screws etc with shiney titanium jobbies 45% lighter should save you a few kilos and they will last a lot longer, then replace the battery with one of the lithium ones (simple to do) they are again 50% lighter.

Neither will be massivly expensive but will reduce weight thus increase Power to weight ratio. Then surely an exhaust is next on the agenda. I have often wondered if the local firms who make there own are better or worse than the big names like Yoshi etc.

Forexample local to me is Predator motorsport and they can make you an exhust from scratch, bound to cost less but perhaps it would be rubbish I just don't know.

But there you go add lightness and you will be happier faster maybe even grow a few inch's

PS thanks for telling me what car it was

I'm not trying to make the bike faster as such, and I wouldn't waste money on Ti bolts, I'd rather get a different subframe made up from Ally, get a prepreg carbon kit or similar and do things that way.

Also as for exhaust it already has a full Micron system and I think the carbs have been modded too so no worries chasing power there. It's more about it getting it handling right, and feeling "tight" as such.

[MotorsportTom]

Hooli said:

BN said:

Part-ex it for a R1

I missed that skimming through a minute ago.

After riding a similar vintage R1 I am aware it's a massively better bike in every way (bar looks for me personally) but the cost and the fact I never want to get rid of this bike means it won't be happening.

[MotorsportTom]

Prof Prolapse said:

As Mike says you won't be near them.

Shame the clearances weren't done on the bench, that's what I intend to do when fitting a new engine to the Honda I blew up (so perhaps best not take me too seriously). You'll presumably be doing them then?

It's up to you, but I would be looking at making sure the engine is properly serviced, and then checking if things like the brake calipers and drive chain, would benefit from an overhaul. I would als be getting the front shocks serviced at the same time as the rear.

I'm not sure I would spend money anywhere until I knew it was right.

But then again as I said my bike is in pieces. So what do I know?

The engine has been serviced a couple of times since putting the motor in back in August. Also I have C+S on order already, front brakes were overhauled in Aug too and it had new discs on the front not long ago.

I refreshed the fluid and seals in the forks in Aug too.

It's now about making sure everything I haven't already done, is right!

[MotorsportTom]

Prof Prolapse said:

MotorsportTom said:

The engine has been serviced a couple of times since putting the motor in back in August. Also I have C+S on order already, front brakes were overhauled in Aug too and it had new discs on the front not long ago.

I refreshed the fluid and seals in the forks in Aug too.

It's now about making sure everything I haven't already done, is right!

Sounds good!

So on the weekend annoyingly I noticed my LH fork seal has popped

Naturally man maths again has made me price up some linear springs for my weight and new seals etc. Only thing, has anybody got a sure fire way of getting rid of pitting on the forks?
I don't want to get them re-chromed or spend the money on new/sh stanchions. Last time I wire wooled them with autosol before giving them a little lick on the machine polisher and ACF'd them.

I expect the lack of cleaning regime and riding in stty conditions is he reason it came back so fast

[MotorsportTom]

Mr2Mike said:

The ONLY sure fire way to get rid of pitting is either re-chroming or new/sh tubes. You can't polish/buff out pitting in the chrome, wire wool and autosol just gets rid of the rust stains. The reason it came back so fast is simply that you have lumps of chrome missing

It's possible to fill larger pits with epoxy and then flat them back level but it doesn't always work that well and if there is a lot of pitting it would take forever. To be honest, that $138 would have been far better spent on getting the forks sorted rather than on rearsets.

The other option is to do what I'm doing, upgrade to a decent set of USD forks.

See that is wise however the money was spent before noticing the leaky seal.

Also I looked into it and the parts alone without new seals/bearings etc you are talking a minimum of £300... plus springs for your weight etc and the cost is easily double if not more!

I am sure I read about using super glue then flatting back to try and get a decent sealing surface again, I just wondered how worthwhile it was attempting it, there are only a few spots (literally 3 or 4)

Steve Bass said:

More likely either the pitting is getting worse and damaging the seal or you failed to tighten the front in the right order and pulled the forks in which makes them leak like a sieve.

They haven't shown any signs of being an issue until the weekend just gone. It can't have been like it for more than a week or two so pretty confident I managed to re-assemble it correctly as it's been fine from Aug-now(ish)

[MotorsportTom]

Mr2Mike said:

MotorsportTom said:

Also I looked into it and the parts alone without new seals/bearings etc you are talking a minimum of £300... plus springs for your weight etc and the cost is easily double if not more!

You can hardly include the cost of springs; it's optional whether you get uprated springs, and they having nothing to do with the pitted forks.

There is a brand new pair of fork tubes on eBay for £160 which seems pretty reasonable.

Eh? Of course I can, I'm planning to get the bike sorted how I wish so the price of springs is included in both options.

Cheers for the link but I will be shopping around or trying to find another solution because I simply trying to not spunk so much money away right now. Stupid shiny rearsets making me buy them

[MotorsportTom]

I did an awesome endo on Sunday as I arrived at work before shoving a feeler gauge in to clean it... does that count as riding gently?

I can't wait to get my car test done and save the blade for nice and track, next month seems so far away!

[MotorsportTom]

Bit late... already got the rearsets on order!

Also my spare shock is stripped and in the middle of being sorted before being sent to be serviced.

Any ideas where I can get info regarding the differences between 98-99 forks and earlier 95-95 I believe. I think 92-94 didn't have external compression adjustment?

I may have found a decent set of forks online for £170 inc yokes so definitely tempted, they seem free of corrosion/pitting etc.

I can't see it would pose any issues just more thinking worst case I could make a decent pair out of the 2.

[MotorsportTom]

Mr2Mike said:

Reardy Mister said:

Don't do the 17" front wheel conversion. That's like buying Lucy Pinder and lopping her tits off cause it makes her a bit lighter.

If you want to make a breast analogy, it's more like having breast reduction surgery so you can buy a nice bra off the peg that fits. They handle perfectly well with the 16" front rim, but you have a choice of about two or three decent tyres for it rather than dozens for a 17".

I won't be swapping the front wheel, I like it being slightly quirky and it handles absolutely fine to my untrained mitts.

The Bridgestone S20 is all the tyre I'll ever need I think so no massive issues there.

Gunk said:

£170 is a reasonable price if they are OK I just sold a clean pair of 1994 RRR forks for around that price.

The 1994 model the forks had stepless rebound, compression & preload adjustment, these remained unchanged until 1996 when they received lighter internals and a wider adjustment range, in 1998 the offset was changed, so it is worth sourcing the correct model year forks as there are some detail changes.

Hmmm do you know anywhere I can get definitive info on the offset changes?

I can't imagine it will be any issue with swapping yokes too unless you can shed light on it otherwise? Worst case I could just swap the stanchions over I suppose.

[MotorsportTom]

MotorsportTom said:

Mr2Mike said:

Reardy Mister said:

Don't do the 17" front wheel conversion. That's like buying Lucy Pinder and lopping her tits off cause it makes her a bit lighter.

If you want to make a breast analogy, it's more like having breast reduction surgery so you can buy a nice bra off the peg that fits. They handle perfectly well with the 16" front rim, but you have a choice of about two or three decent tyres for it rather than dozens for a 17".

I won't be swapping the front wheel, I like it being slightly quirky and it handles absolutely fine to my untrained mitts.

The Bridgestone S20 is all the tyre I'll ever need I think so no massive issues there.

Gunk said:

£170 is a reasonable price if they are OK I just sold a clean pair of 1994 RRR forks for around that price.

The 1994 model the forks had stepless rebound, compression & preload adjustment, these remained unchanged until 1996 when they received lighter internals and a wider adjustment range, in 1998 the offset was changed, so it is worth sourcing the correct model year forks as there are some detail changes.

Hmmm do you know anywhere I can get definitive info on the offset changes?

I can't imagine it will be any issue with swapping yokes too unless you can shed light on it otherwise? Worst case I could just swap the stanchions over I suppose.

Found out (in case anyone wants to know) The offset of the yokes is 5mm less to increase trail slightly. I'll check over the condition of the forks/yokes and see what I want to do when they arrive.

Coming from Greece so may take a couple of weeks

[MotorsportTom]

Mr2Mike said:

MotorsportTom said:

Bit late... already got the rearsets on order!

Also my spare shock is stripped and in the middle of being sorted before being sent to be serviced.

Any ideas where I can get info regarding the differences between 98-99 forks and earlier 95-95 I believe. I think 92-94 didn't have external compression adjustment?

There's quite a few differences:

Offset reduced by 5mm
Fork centres increased from 204mm to 214mm
Caliper mounts changed to accommodate 310mm front discs instead of 298mm discs.
The 98 calipers are different as well, but I think the mounting centres are the same.

I'd be tempted to see if you can combine the 98 fork tubes/cartridges with the earlier fork lowers to minimise costs. Otherwise you are going to need new discs and wheel spacers at least, and your mudguard may not fit the 10mm wider forks very well either.

My plan was see what they are like when they come in and worst case make a bastardised set of the two as I put brand new bushes in my set of forks last year too! Worst case I'll use only the stanchions and build up what I have and flog those back on ebay to recoup some cost, I should still be spending less than buying a set of stanchions or getting them re-chromed.

[MotorsportTom]

Mr2Mike said:

Did you manage to swap over the fork tubes in the end?

Yes did it on the weekend. So used all parts of the 98 forks bar the springs. Used the yokes that were on the bike (96)

No issues with the mudguard or calipers, I dod check part numbers for the mudguard beforehand and measured up the calipers once the 98 forks were stripped.

Even with my tyres being st (square etc) the difference is incredible, I cannot wait for my rear shock to come back from servicing. It should ride like its on rails if this is anything to go by

[MotorsportTom]

That does look smart with the orange rims!

I keep meaning to make my rear wheel purple, I don't know why I just think it'll look cool as fk.

And by that I mean 90's as fk!