Big single custom bike project
Discussion
Over the years I have done quite a few custom bike builds and also restorations, here are a few...
For this year I decided to do something different and do a big single project. I decided on a Honda 650 SLR as a base as it has a light frame, and a great engine.
Here is what I started with...
here's what was left after the angle grinder came out!
first job was to fabricate the rear subframe
Next job took some thinking about and making… the footrest plates are structural to the frame as they support the ends of the swinging arm. I also wanted to mover the pegs forward slightly… here is the result… more chunky than I usually make bit they need to be!
now one of the more satisfying jobs… exhaust fabrication! the original headers were 28mm but its very hard to get any sorts of bends in that diameter so I went up to 32mm, which aesthetically I think looks better. 32mm bends are available in quite a few angles, its just deciding which ones you need, and that’s just an eyeball thing.
Its not that difficult to make a system, its more time consuming. Cuts are made using a 1mm cutting disk in the angle grinder, and if you wrap masking tape around the cut line you can get it very accurate. then it’s a matter of assembling it together, initially with Jubilee clips. I cut slots in these so I can tack it in situ. A tip about tacking is to double the amps on the welder to what you would use to weld… and then put the tiniest of tacks in place. A tiny tack also has the advantage that it does not pull a gap on the opposite side that you will get if you make big ones. Three tiny tacks are actually very strong, but if you make a mistake, can easily be broken by touching them with the cutting disk.
Note the 2 way spirit level… this is a VERY useful (and cheap!) way of making sure build lines are correct. If you have the bike vertically (using a long spirit level on the wheel) and horizontal you can place the 2 way level on the bike and tape it there… that becomes your datum. To get it right on this bike I had to drop the stanchions through the yokes as I will be replacing the 19″ front wheel with a 17″ on soon.
For this year I decided to do something different and do a big single project. I decided on a Honda 650 SLR as a base as it has a light frame, and a great engine.
Here is what I started with...
here's what was left after the angle grinder came out!
first job was to fabricate the rear subframe
Next job took some thinking about and making… the footrest plates are structural to the frame as they support the ends of the swinging arm. I also wanted to mover the pegs forward slightly… here is the result… more chunky than I usually make bit they need to be!
now one of the more satisfying jobs… exhaust fabrication! the original headers were 28mm but its very hard to get any sorts of bends in that diameter so I went up to 32mm, which aesthetically I think looks better. 32mm bends are available in quite a few angles, its just deciding which ones you need, and that’s just an eyeball thing.
Its not that difficult to make a system, its more time consuming. Cuts are made using a 1mm cutting disk in the angle grinder, and if you wrap masking tape around the cut line you can get it very accurate. then it’s a matter of assembling it together, initially with Jubilee clips. I cut slots in these so I can tack it in situ. A tip about tacking is to double the amps on the welder to what you would use to weld… and then put the tiniest of tacks in place. A tiny tack also has the advantage that it does not pull a gap on the opposite side that you will get if you make big ones. Three tiny tacks are actually very strong, but if you make a mistake, can easily be broken by touching them with the cutting disk.
Note the 2 way spirit level… this is a VERY useful (and cheap!) way of making sure build lines are correct. If you have the bike vertically (using a long spirit level on the wheel) and horizontal you can place the 2 way level on the bike and tape it there… that becomes your datum. To get it right on this bike I had to drop the stanchions through the yokes as I will be replacing the 19″ front wheel with a 17″ on soon.
Onelastattempt said:
Some nice bikes there, wonder what colour the new project will be, orange perhaps ?
I think you know....
Biker 1 said:
That looks totally awesome mate!!!! I simply have no idea how you have enough spare time to do this sort of stuff.....
I retired 14 years ago... so time is now split between holidays, and days out with my wife, and bike building, and other "projects" some of which are below... I started late this year, and was in fact not going to do a bike as I had a list of house renovation jobs to do...(happy wife, happy life) lots of Decorating, new floors, and the big job a new kitchen! That all went very well and I finished before Christmas (plan was March!) When this Honda came up I thought why not!
There will be a break for a while now though as we are off to get some sun for 3 week
here is the stainless steel fire pit an BBQ i made as she wanted her own veggie grill
All made out of 316 stainless, it will outlast me!
As a christmas present I renovated an old writing box and made it into a Jewellery box...
I sometimes make some cheese boards for friends....
then there's water features....
Benni said:
Hello Buzzer, thanks for posting yet another build thread !
Regarding the 2-way spirit level: I understand the vertical bit,
but how do you decide which way is the "correct" horizontal angle when you have a "blank canvas" to start from ?
Is it more asthetics or do you think of an "ideal" front fork rake & wheel trail optimized to suit the riding style ?
The exhaust looks great, although I would have tried to align the header pipe(s) parallel to the cylinder cooling fins.
The horizontal I normally take from Wheel spindle centres, but in this case, as I am changing the front wheel, I had to do a little calculation. Regarding the 2-way spirit level: I understand the vertical bit,
but how do you decide which way is the "correct" horizontal angle when you have a "blank canvas" to start from ?
Is it more asthetics or do you think of an "ideal" front fork rake & wheel trail optimized to suit the riding style ?
The exhaust looks great, although I would have tried to align the header pipe(s) parallel to the cylinder cooling fins.
In terms of suspension geometry, I normally leave things as they are.
I know what you mean about the exhaust, initially I did line it up with the cylinder fins. However, I stood back and looked and it just didn’t look right. The exhaust now lines up with the angle of the rear subframe which I felt looked better. it’s subjective, though, of course.
nismocat said:
I am a bit of a purist (snob?) and never like it when people modify any bike, especially turning into a cafe racer (shudder), and I don't like what you are doing to that (but let's face it who cares about the SLR!) but props to your fabrication and general amazing skillz! 
(I am also very glad it isn't an XR600)
I do believe there are bikes that should be preserved... and kept unmodified, but not many. When I bought a tatty but original early Ducati Monster it would have been a crime to modify it, so I restored it, especially as it had the original frame tail on it.(I am also very glad it isn't an XR600)
Its also a financial decision... many bikes are simply not worth the time, effort and money to restore.
As for most bikes, they are just bikes... and I don't feel guilty about getting the angle grinder out!
What really hacks me off is the rivet counters who go around saying that sticker is too low on the tank..., or thats the wrong type of brake lever... or it doesn't look right in two pack it should be celulose...
Or even worse are the guys with loads bikes in the shed that they are going to "restore one day! One of my mates has a Suzuki GT 750 that has stood in his shed since 1980... along with many early race parts... the roof leaks and its in a terrible state, but he is "going to restore it one day" When I chopped up an ST4s Ducati he was aghast! he didn't get the irony of his criticism
I have agonised over what to do about the number plate… In the end I decided to copy the current crop of bikes that hang it off a bracket off the swinging arm. I quite like how CCM do it so have sort of copied their design. I have used thin wall steel tube which is always difficult to bend, so to prevent kinking I fill the pipe with sand. First I block one end off, and weld a nut on the other. Then its filled with dry sand until its below the threads in the nut. I then hold the tube against the bench grinder and the vibration compacts the sand, so I fill it again. Finally a bolt is tightened onto the sand which compacts it furter.
Doing this means its far less likely to kink as its bent!
Doing this means its far less likely to kink as its bent!
tvrolet said:
I tried the sand method to make an exhaust system last year, without the bench-grinder vibes - I'll use that tip in future 
Even ramming it in (ooh er missus) I guess the sand wasn't packed-in enough and I didn't do the bolt in the end to compact it, just sealed the end...another tip gleaned 
Not surprisingly, I guess, it got creased and I ended up buying bends and welding it up in sections. Every day's a school day
I love reading how things were achieved, especially on stuff I've had a go at and failed.
to be honest, the bigger the pipe, the less effective the method with sand... I tried it years ago on some 2" pipe and it failed miserably. this is why I prefer to do what you did and weld bend together Even ramming it in (ooh er missus) I guess the sand wasn't packed-in enough and I didn't do the bolt in the end to compact it, just sealed the end...another tip gleaned Not surprisingly, I guess, it got creased and I ended up buying bends and welding it up in sections. Every day's a school day I love reading how things were achieved, especially on stuff I've had a go at and failed.
The rear number plate mounting looked OK, but it needed a hugger… I wanted to keep things as light as I could so I decided to try some carbon fibre.. first and probably last time as its a nightmare to work with! I had to buy a meter, so I decided to also make the battery tray as well… That’s currently drying, its nice and light but not that pretty, but its unseen so I will live with it. I used an old mudguard to make the mould and the hugger came out rather well! with what’s left I will probably make a front mudguard, we will see how that turns out, on this one I will try the vacuum bag approach.
The new 17″ front rim and new stainless spokes have also arrived. Expensive, but you can't have rusty spokes, it spoils a build
there will be a short interlude in updates now as we are off for some sun for three weeks!
The new 17″ front rim and new stainless spokes have also arrived. Expensive, but you can't have rusty spokes, it spoils a build
there will be a short interlude in updates now as we are off for some sun for three weeks!
I have wanted to try Cerakote for a while due to the great reports of its durability and finish. So I purchased a pint to see how it went… its not cheap! I read the instructions on their knowledge base and it seemed simple enough so I thought I would start with the wheel hubs.
First job was stripping the thick powder coat off, and for this I used some commercial paint stripper. As you can see this makes short work of removing it! the stuff you buy from DIY stores is next to useless for this.
Next prep for the coating. I gave the hubs a good blasting with aluminium oxide grit to give it a key, then cleaned then in hot water with some detergent in. I never use washing up liquid for things like this (or rubbing down paintwork) as it contains silicone, which kind of defeats the object of trying for a clean surface! I then popped them in the warm oven for two reasons…. one is to make sure they are completely dry, and secondly if you mask them while warm, the tape sticks MUCH better. With regard to masking, I put the tape on, and then brush the edges with a riffler file and then you can peel it off perfectly.
Next i gave them a single thin coat of Cerakote. I used a paper strainer as they suggested. Its very thin, but highly pigmented and covers really well. It flash dries in 45 mins, and is handleable in a few hours, but it takes 5 days to fully cure. I was impressed with the ease of application and the finish!
with the hubs now painted it’s time to try something I haven’t done before, and that’s wheel building. I watched a few videos on Youtube and managed to loan a jig off my mate, which actually proved really useful! I got special dispensation to do it on the dining room table as I knew it would take a while and I wanted to be able to sit down!
I was actually surprised how easy it was! I managed to get the correct offset, and up and down and side to side within half a mm.. here they are complete with new bearings and seals.
First job was stripping the thick powder coat off, and for this I used some commercial paint stripper. As you can see this makes short work of removing it! the stuff you buy from DIY stores is next to useless for this.
Next prep for the coating. I gave the hubs a good blasting with aluminium oxide grit to give it a key, then cleaned then in hot water with some detergent in. I never use washing up liquid for things like this (or rubbing down paintwork) as it contains silicone, which kind of defeats the object of trying for a clean surface! I then popped them in the warm oven for two reasons…. one is to make sure they are completely dry, and secondly if you mask them while warm, the tape sticks MUCH better. With regard to masking, I put the tape on, and then brush the edges with a riffler file and then you can peel it off perfectly.
Next i gave them a single thin coat of Cerakote. I used a paper strainer as they suggested. Its very thin, but highly pigmented and covers really well. It flash dries in 45 mins, and is handleable in a few hours, but it takes 5 days to fully cure. I was impressed with the ease of application and the finish!
with the hubs now painted it’s time to try something I haven’t done before, and that’s wheel building. I watched a few videos on Youtube and managed to loan a jig off my mate, which actually proved really useful! I got special dispensation to do it on the dining room table as I knew it would take a while and I wanted to be able to sit down!
I was actually surprised how easy it was! I managed to get the correct offset, and up and down and side to side within half a mm.. here they are complete with new bearings and seals.
KTMsm said:
Excellent work as always
I like the tips too - I've used washing up liquid in the past... that might explain the resulting poor paint job
If you want more tips on painting take a look at my blog page on painting at homeI like the tips too - I've used washing up liquid in the past... that might explain the resulting poor paint job
https://jtccc.wordpress.com/projects-2/
TT1138 said:
Always pleased to see updates. Enjoy these builds.
Thanks!headlight brackets took some thinking about, but I had plenty of time to do it lying in the sun! thank goodness for the Ipad and Ipencil!. I sent the drawing off to the water jet cutters and they cut them out of some nice 25mm plate, they came out well. I also designed them so i could mount the custom made indicators. it will all be polished later as I like to do all the polishing over a few days, horrible and filthy job!
the carbon battery tray came out OK, I initially made an alloy one, but it hung down too low and spoiled the lines, so I made the carbon one stepped so the battery can sit in a recess to the side. its going to be tight with the electrics!
Here it is in profile, not long before i can take it all apart for painting! At this stage its really important to try to mount everything... you don't want to get it all painted/ powder coated and then find you are missing a bracket for say a horn! I also wheeled it around and found that the forks hit the tank... the lock stops are not adjustable on this so I am gong to have to extend them before painting...
I played around for hours on photoshop trying to decide on high, low, beak type mudguard, but decided in the end to go low with a carbon one... with the advantage of a nice fork brace as well. Just ordered some orange fork gaiters, will see what that looks like!
one of the few items on the bike that needed real attention was the swinging arm bush and needle roller bearing. it was badly rusted and seized… I checked and the bush is no longer available. I made one out of good quality steel, and case hardened it several times to build up the depth of the hardened layer. I also did a test piece and was pleased that I could not touch it with a file! I have not done case hardening for a LONG time!
I finished welding up the frame and parts. Where I had modified the frame tubes I put an internal tube so it didn’t crush it when I tightened the bolts, then I welded the support bushes on. Then it was off to the powder coaters, along with a big box pf parts to be plated.
Its always stressful pulling an engine apart… you never know what you are going to find! I was really pleased as it came apart. there is no discernable wear on the bore, all bearings are nice and smooth, so its just gaskets, seals, and a new cam chain. I can see why these engines do mega miles, it’s VERY well built!
I finished welding up the frame and parts. Where I had modified the frame tubes I put an internal tube so it didn’t crush it when I tightened the bolts, then I welded the support bushes on. Then it was off to the powder coaters, along with a big box pf parts to be plated.
Its always stressful pulling an engine apart… you never know what you are going to find! I was really pleased as it came apart. there is no discernable wear on the bore, all bearings are nice and smooth, so its just gaskets, seals, and a new cam chain. I can see why these engines do mega miles, it’s VERY well built!
tvrolet said:
Great work (as stated earlier) and great tips. But as someone who's just spent an afternoon with the wet-and-dry I recall you comment of don't use washing up liquid in the water. That's always been my go-to. What do you use instead?
...and yes, I probably should have asked before I embarked on my Fairy Liquid-powered session
Karcher RM756 is the one I use... about £10 a bottle. its a strong detergent. you know when you wash the car with car shampoo and after the water beads off? well if you use this it doesn't ...and yes, I probably should have asked before I embarked on my Fairy Liquid-powered session
the engine build is well underway…its a nice and simple engine to build, I do like the way honda gets all the tolerances spot on! While I was on I polished the ports, and matched the inlet manifold to the head. I also did a bit more Cerakote, and I have to say its easy to apply, and gives a superb finish, I would say that its easily up to factory standard! I have used the air dry titanium colour on the side case for a bit of contrast and will also be using this on the oil lines.
Onto rebuilding the forks, boy the oil was black in there! they were all OK though so new seals and dust covers, and some new oil. I often hear of people replacing fork seals and still having them leak afterwards…. This is often because people install the seals by tapping them in with a punch! this invariably damages the seal lip, hence they leak. the best way to install them is with a nylon collar supported in the vice… that way you can tap them in nice and square and get then seated on the bottom of the land.
painting day… I debated on painting some of the parts satin black, but I actually like the fake carbon, plus its very durable. The fuel filters came as well.. I bought an 8mm and a 6mm one and swapped the parts over to compensate for the fact the fuel tap is a smaller pipe than the carb!
I was going to put a standard Honda decal on the tank, but then I saw these and liked them… not from the usual supplier, but the seller also sent me some samples so i could test the compatibility with the laquer. It was fine thank goodness. When painting over decals there are a few tips… first off I always do a first coat of laquer and let it dry, i never put them on the base coat. then I wet sand with 1000 wet and dry and then stick the decals in place. Now the important bits… Always wipe the area with panel wipe… this is for two reasons. Firstly, there is always some adhesive on the edge of the decal, and secondly they often have silicon on them and that makes the paint cess. I always give a mist coat over the decal and let it tack off, the reason for this is if you hit it with a full coat first you end up with runs off the horizontal edges of the decal.
I looked at the filler cap that came new with the tank and decided it looked crap, so I took it apart and made a new on incorporating a breather.
I was going to put a standard Honda decal on the tank, but then I saw these and liked them… not from the usual supplier, but the seller also sent me some samples so i could test the compatibility with the laquer. It was fine thank goodness. When painting over decals there are a few tips… first off I always do a first coat of laquer and let it dry, i never put them on the base coat. then I wet sand with 1000 wet and dry and then stick the decals in place. Now the important bits… Always wipe the area with panel wipe… this is for two reasons. Firstly, there is always some adhesive on the edge of the decal, and secondly they often have silicon on them and that makes the paint cess. I always give a mist coat over the decal and let it tack off, the reason for this is if you hit it with a full coat first you end up with runs off the horizontal edges of the decal.
I looked at the filler cap that came new with the tank and decided it looked crap, so I took it apart and made a new on incorporating a breather.
Well it looks like there will be another delay. The company I have used for many years for powder coating has messed me around for a month now, lots of broken promises, which resulted in me going over this morning and fetching it all back. Some of it is done, but not up to the usual standard, and the frame has just been blasted. Still charged me the price as if it was all done. Didn’t argue, just walked away.
I have recommended this guy so many times, but not in the future, plus he has lost me as a customer for good
So, I managed to match the paint colour and will do the frame in 2K which in many ways will be better.
I have recommended this guy so many times, but not in the future, plus he has lost me as a customer for good
So, I managed to match the paint colour and will do the frame in 2K which in many ways will be better.
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