PH Bikers guide from Test to Buying a Bike / Kit advice.
Discussion
So, you want a motorbike do you? Well, first the good news: 2007 2008 2009 2011 is the year you are finally going to do it! No more idle day dreaming about cruising the highway on a shiny steed, this year you're going to make it happen!
The bad news is, the reason you are going to do it this year is that as from 2008 the European wide test comes into place, with higher costs, complexity and difficulty. DON'T DELAY, BOOK YOUR TEST TODAY!!!
Offical information on the new test procedure can be found here and it states an October 2008 introduction.
Test costs:
Depending on age, there are a couple of different ways you can get a licence:
Under 21 you will take a test on a 125 giving you a restricted A2 licence. This allows you to ride bikes upto 33hp. After two years you can automatically ride a bike of any size; if you turn 21 before the two years are up you can take an accelerated access test to give you access to all motorbikes.
If you are 21 or over, the most popular route to gaining a motorcycle licence is the Direct Access Scheme (DAS): for this you must take a test on a bike of at least 46.6hp and you will end up with an unrestricted licence letting you ride any kind of motorbike.
No matter which route you go down, the overall procedure is the same:
Compulsory Basic Training (CBT): before you can go on the road you will need to complete a full days course being instructed on the use of a 125cc motorbike. Everyone has to do the CBT before they can hit the road nowadays, regardless of what other licenses you may have. Mornings are spent riding around cones off road and receiving basic instruction, afternoons are on the road. The CBT is valid for two years; if you have not passed your test by then you will need to resit the CBT. Typical cost around £100.
Theory test: You will need to complete this before you can sit your practical test. Comprises two parts, theory and hazard perception. Costs £30.
The theory test for motorbikes is different from cars and so you will need to do that before the practical test.
Practical test: If you are doing DAS, your instructors will usually incorporate the costs for this into your course fees. Instruction varies, but typically about 20 hours training spread over a few days or a week if you do CBT at the same time, culminating in you test. Typical costs are £5-600 and includes bike hire for the test.
See below for a break down of the practical test
Total test costs: £600-750
http://www.direct.gov.uk/en/Motoring/LearnerAndNew...
Offical information on the new test procedure can be found here and it should have started October 2008
Points and your new bike licence
The 6 point rule apply's to the first category of licence, wether it be car or bike etc, the points gained within any category are added together, so that if on a probationary period 6 points (eg 3 car+3 bike) are reached a ban comes into effect on all categories.
However as further categories are "added" to the licence after the first, a probationary period is not allocated, unless within 2 years of first category
The 6 point- 2 year probation rule was brought in under the new drivers act 1995.
If banned, to regain entitlement in all catogories only one of the tests must be taken
for anyone who has driven over 2 years the number of points then increases to 12
Equipment costs:
This will vary depending on the intended use of the bike, for instance a commuter will probably want textile jacket and trousers, a fun rider will probably want leathers with perhaps some compact waterproofs stowed under the seat. Regular track day visitors will want either one or two piece leathers. Breaking it down:
Helmet: There's a huge variety of different helmet manufacturers to choose from and a range of helmets to suit all budgets. Generally speaking, the cheapest lids from Korean or Chinese manufacturers are probably best avoided. £100+ helmets from the main European & Japanese manufacturers should offer higher levels of protection. Do a search for "helmet" and you will find plenty of information.
MOST IMPORTANT OF ALL: Get the lid that fits you best! Not simply from a comfort point of view, but also for your own protection. A good shop should measure your head and allow you to try the lids on for at least 10 minutes each. Try a few to ensure a good fit; expect the lining to sag a bit over time.
Some popular makes (in no particular order): Arai, Shoei, AGV, Nolan, Caberg, Schuberth, Suomy.
Boots: Plenty to choose from, try before you buy as your boot size may be dramatically different from your shoe size. Choices of race, MX and all weather styles. Typically, good boots will cost £100+
Gloves: Plenty of choice, generally in two styles: summer and winter. Armour is desirable. Budget at least £50 per pair. If you plan on riding all year round you will need at least two pairs.
Jacket and trousers: Textile for all year round usability, leather for protection. CE approved body armour a good idea, comes as standard in many jackets and trousers. Budget at least £250 for both.
Always try the trousers on first, make sure they fit and sit on a bike so that you know the armour etc is in the right place
Two types of materials used are
Textiles – Generally offer less crash protection than leathers though will offer rain protection and can include zip out thermal linings for extra warmth in the colder weather. Probably easier to get something like a woolly jumper under as well. Will be warmer in the summer too and I find that they are not as god to wear when ‘enjoying’ the grippy warm summer tarmac!
Leathers – Offer good crash protection but will require an additional rain proof over suit. Leathers that are cool in the summer (i.e. – perforated) will be bloody cold in the winter and leathers that are warm in the winter will be boiling hot in the summer.
If buying back armour make sure it comes down into the trousers so that it protects your coccyx.
Search the forum or head to http://www.ridetriangles.com/ for more information. Make sure you get equipment that your are comfortable with; hopefully you will be spending a long time in it!
Total equipment costs: £500-LOTS!
Bike advice:
Your choice of bike is exactly that: your choice. Try as many as you can as there's no way can any magazine review or anyone else tell you what is right for you. However, bear in mind that you are new, you're not all that skilled and you will make mistakes. Can you really handle that litre sportsbike? How will you feel when (not if) you drop your brand new pride and joy trying to put it on the stand? Perhaps something older and slower would be more suitable for you sir...
Some popular choices for a first bike are things like the Honda CB/CBF500, Suzuki GS500E and Kawasaki ER-5. All of these are simple parallel twin bikes are economical, cheap to run and quick enough to stay ahead of the traffic.
For the slightly bolder, fun middleweights like the Suzuki SV650 & Bandit 600/650, Honda Hornet 600 and Yamaha Fazer 600 are well balanced, confidence inspiring and predictable and also offer that all important "big bike" feel and performance.
Don't be afraid to look at bigger bikes, but keep a sense of perspective: yes, the throttle works both ways, but as a newly qualified rider you will not have the skills to cope with something like an R1 or Blade: wobbling about on one of these bikes may not be as fun as learning to rag around on something smaller and more accessable.
Once you have decided on your bike, remember to leave a bit in your budget for some accessories & essentials. Locks, chain lube, WD40, corrosion inhibitor and degreasers are all going to find their way into your life! Crash bungs or bars are a good idea to protect your steed. Commuters may want to look at a Scottoiler to prolong chain & sprocket life.
You will also require insurance for your new steed: www.thebikeinsurer.co.uk can be a reasonable starting point for getting an idea how much you can expect to pay. A search on the forum will yield other places to try.
Good question - you have your licence, you are qualified, so why do you need more?
Taking quality-advanced training is like an awakening; it should result in your confidence and ability going sky high. No more bike with you sat on it, the two of you should become one, a fluid flowing style where its become hard to fit the grin in the crash helmet, that's what we are after. The added bonus should be that your safety margins increase in line with your new found skills.
The following resources show a wide variety of training options for the new (or experienced) rider; I'd recommend looking at all of them, Survival Skills "Riding Skills" section is an excellent resource for road riding tips:
Rapid Training www.rapidtraining.co.uk
RideDrive www.ridedrive.co.uk
UK Advanced www.advanced-motorcycle-training.co.uk
Survival Skills www.survivalskills.clara.net
More formally recognised training; may help reduce insurance premiums too!
BikeSafe www.bikesafe.co.uk
RoSPA www.rospa.com/drivertraining/courses/advanced_test...
IAM www.iam.org.uk
What to look for in a used bike
From rsvgone
For guidance. Others can expand this and add links;
1. Paperwork
■Always do an HPI check.
■Check correctness of V5 and whether it tallies with the seller's address
■Check the service history. Does it match mileage?
■Always come away with the new owner slip
■Get a hand written & signed receipt (may help if any problems arise)
■Review MOT document and check for 'Advisories' - if the mot cert details a number of advisories and the seller can't produce the advisory sheet then you can check what they were using this website... http://www.direct.gov.uk/en/Motoring/OwningAVehicl...
2. Frame & Engine
■Is the VIN clearly on the frame and unaltered?
■Does the engine number match the registration documents?
■Condition of forks- leaking seals, rusty/pitted fork stantions
■Clickingor play in the headstock bearings
■Condition of rear shock
■Dents/damage to the frame or tank- may indicate a drop
■If you can take along a 2m straight edge run it down the side of the bike to check the front/rear wheel alignment
■Check all fluid levels [oil / coolant / front & rear brake fluid plus clutch fluid]. Low levels suggest a less than scrupulous owner.
■Check when the valve clearances were last inspected / adjusted.
3. Consumables
■Condition of tyres. A set will cost you £150 upwards.
■Condition of Chain & Sprockets. A set will cost around £100 plus fitting costs.
■Does the bike fall apart when you kick the tyres? (answer should be no)
■Brakes- check for 'meat' on the pads & condition of discs (warped ones are expesive to replace)
■Oil- should be a nice brown colour, definitely not black & gloopy
■Fluid (brakes)- should be a slightly yellow but clear colour. Dark fluid indicates old stuff which may lead to other repairs, or an inidcation that the bike hasn't been serviced well.
Links
http://www.wikihow.com/Buy-a-Used-Motorcycle
■Check the condition of the drive chain and sprocket. The chain should have around ¾" of play (up and down) and the teeth of the sprocket should not show obvious damage or wear. Try to wiggle the chain side to side on the sprocket. There shouldn't be much movement on a good set. Have someone sit down on the motorcycle and check to make sure the chain is somewhat snug, with very little movement up and down. Chains wear out over time, but sprockets should last much longer. A severely worn sprocket indicates either an old sprocket or a poor maintenance schedule.
■The tires should have good tread all the way across the surface with no signs of uneven wear or damage. Daily drivers' tires will often have more wear in the middle on the tread (more highway driving). Others who've raced their motorcycle on the track, will have tires that show more wear at the edge of the tread.
■Sit on the bike. Look at the condition of the brake and clutch levers, bar-end weights, straightness of the bars and instrument cluster. These could be signs of an accident or drop. Others could be scratched engine cases, foot pegs or exhaust pipes. Hold the handbrake and bounce the front suspension. It should feel even and firm. Get off the bike and check the fork tubes for signs of rust, pitting and oil. These are signs of worn fork seals, or possible future expensive problems.
■While checking the forks, run a fingernail across the brake rotors, feeling for uneven wear or grooving. Look into the brake caliper to see how much of the pads are left. If the bike has spokes, check the overall condition of the individual spokes. For all types, look for dents or damage to the rim.
■Put the bike on its center stand if so equipped; turn the bars side to side. Feel for any 'notchy-ness' or roughness in the steering head.
■If possible, check the visible frame; remove the seat to see underneath it also. There should be no dents, kinks or visible damage to the frame. If there is, walk away.
■While the seat is off and you can access the battery, clip the multi-meter across the battery terminals and check the voltage. It should read no less than 12 volts. Start the engine. The meter should read no more than 14 volts or so while running. If it does, that may be a sign of a 'dodgy' voltage regulator and it may overcharge a battery and cause it to fail. Check the lights and indicators at this stage also. Pull a fuse or two out and check for corrosion. Do this with the engine off of course. Also, check the battery terminals and overall appearance of the battery. Replace the seat.
■Open the fuel tank and check for obvious signs of rust or corrosion using your flashlight (not a match or lighter)
■Inspect under fairings (if the motorcycle has fairings). Remove the same fairing the owner removes to change spark plugs and do routine maintenance. Check the frame for fatigue at the weld points. Inspect the overall condition of the engine block, plugs, and radiator. Check for leaks around the oil filter and oil pan bolt.
■Look at the brake fluid level. This is usually on top of handlebars, in an enclosure with a clear window. With the engine running, pull hard on the front brakes level and release while watching the fluid level. It should fall and rise. It should rise quickly once the brake is released.
Term and ConditionsHosted by CarrenzaCopyright PistonHeads® 1998-2011
The bad news is, the reason you are going to do it this year is that as from 2008 the European wide test comes into place, with higher costs, complexity and difficulty. DON'T DELAY, BOOK YOUR TEST TODAY!!!
Offical information on the new test procedure can be found here and it states an October 2008 introduction.
Test costs:
Depending on age, there are a couple of different ways you can get a licence:
Under 21 you will take a test on a 125 giving you a restricted A2 licence. This allows you to ride bikes upto 33hp. After two years you can automatically ride a bike of any size; if you turn 21 before the two years are up you can take an accelerated access test to give you access to all motorbikes.
If you are 21 or over, the most popular route to gaining a motorcycle licence is the Direct Access Scheme (DAS): for this you must take a test on a bike of at least 46.6hp and you will end up with an unrestricted licence letting you ride any kind of motorbike.
No matter which route you go down, the overall procedure is the same:
Compulsory Basic Training (CBT): before you can go on the road you will need to complete a full days course being instructed on the use of a 125cc motorbike. Everyone has to do the CBT before they can hit the road nowadays, regardless of what other licenses you may have. Mornings are spent riding around cones off road and receiving basic instruction, afternoons are on the road. The CBT is valid for two years; if you have not passed your test by then you will need to resit the CBT. Typical cost around £100.
Theory test: You will need to complete this before you can sit your practical test. Comprises two parts, theory and hazard perception. Costs £30.
The theory test for motorbikes is different from cars and so you will need to do that before the practical test.
Practical test: If you are doing DAS, your instructors will usually incorporate the costs for this into your course fees. Instruction varies, but typically about 20 hours training spread over a few days or a week if you do CBT at the same time, culminating in you test. Typical costs are £5-600 and includes bike hire for the test.
See below for a break down of the practical test
Total test costs: £600-750
http://www.direct.gov.uk/en/Motoring/LearnerAndNew...
Offical information on the new test procedure can be found here and it should have started October 2008
Points and your new bike licence
The 6 point rule apply's to the first category of licence, wether it be car or bike etc, the points gained within any category are added together, so that if on a probationary period 6 points (eg 3 car+3 bike) are reached a ban comes into effect on all categories.
However as further categories are "added" to the licence after the first, a probationary period is not allocated, unless within 2 years of first category
The 6 point- 2 year probation rule was brought in under the new drivers act 1995.
If banned, to regain entitlement in all catogories only one of the tests must be taken
for anyone who has driven over 2 years the number of points then increases to 12
Equipment costs:
This will vary depending on the intended use of the bike, for instance a commuter will probably want textile jacket and trousers, a fun rider will probably want leathers with perhaps some compact waterproofs stowed under the seat. Regular track day visitors will want either one or two piece leathers. Breaking it down:
Helmet: There's a huge variety of different helmet manufacturers to choose from and a range of helmets to suit all budgets. Generally speaking, the cheapest lids from Korean or Chinese manufacturers are probably best avoided. £100+ helmets from the main European & Japanese manufacturers should offer higher levels of protection. Do a search for "helmet" and you will find plenty of information.
MOST IMPORTANT OF ALL: Get the lid that fits you best! Not simply from a comfort point of view, but also for your own protection. A good shop should measure your head and allow you to try the lids on for at least 10 minutes each. Try a few to ensure a good fit; expect the lining to sag a bit over time.
Some popular makes (in no particular order): Arai, Shoei, AGV, Nolan, Caberg, Schuberth, Suomy.
Boots: Plenty to choose from, try before you buy as your boot size may be dramatically different from your shoe size. Choices of race, MX and all weather styles. Typically, good boots will cost £100+
Gloves: Plenty of choice, generally in two styles: summer and winter. Armour is desirable. Budget at least £50 per pair. If you plan on riding all year round you will need at least two pairs.
Jacket and trousers: Textile for all year round usability, leather for protection. CE approved body armour a good idea, comes as standard in many jackets and trousers. Budget at least £250 for both.
Always try the trousers on first, make sure they fit and sit on a bike so that you know the armour etc is in the right place
Two types of materials used are
Textiles – Generally offer less crash protection than leathers though will offer rain protection and can include zip out thermal linings for extra warmth in the colder weather. Probably easier to get something like a woolly jumper under as well. Will be warmer in the summer too and I find that they are not as god to wear when ‘enjoying’ the grippy warm summer tarmac!
Leathers – Offer good crash protection but will require an additional rain proof over suit. Leathers that are cool in the summer (i.e. – perforated) will be bloody cold in the winter and leathers that are warm in the winter will be boiling hot in the summer.
If buying back armour make sure it comes down into the trousers so that it protects your coccyx.
Search the forum or head to http://www.ridetriangles.com/ for more information. Make sure you get equipment that your are comfortable with; hopefully you will be spending a long time in it!
Total equipment costs: £500-LOTS!
Bike advice:
Your choice of bike is exactly that: your choice. Try as many as you can as there's no way can any magazine review or anyone else tell you what is right for you. However, bear in mind that you are new, you're not all that skilled and you will make mistakes. Can you really handle that litre sportsbike? How will you feel when (not if) you drop your brand new pride and joy trying to put it on the stand? Perhaps something older and slower would be more suitable for you sir...
Some popular choices for a first bike are things like the Honda CB/CBF500, Suzuki GS500E and Kawasaki ER-5. All of these are simple parallel twin bikes are economical, cheap to run and quick enough to stay ahead of the traffic.
For the slightly bolder, fun middleweights like the Suzuki SV650 & Bandit 600/650, Honda Hornet 600 and Yamaha Fazer 600 are well balanced, confidence inspiring and predictable and also offer that all important "big bike" feel and performance.
Don't be afraid to look at bigger bikes, but keep a sense of perspective: yes, the throttle works both ways, but as a newly qualified rider you will not have the skills to cope with something like an R1 or Blade: wobbling about on one of these bikes may not be as fun as learning to rag around on something smaller and more accessable.
Once you have decided on your bike, remember to leave a bit in your budget for some accessories & essentials. Locks, chain lube, WD40, corrosion inhibitor and degreasers are all going to find their way into your life! Crash bungs or bars are a good idea to protect your steed. Commuters may want to look at a Scottoiler to prolong chain & sprocket life.
You will also require insurance for your new steed: www.thebikeinsurer.co.uk can be a reasonable starting point for getting an idea how much you can expect to pay. A search on the forum will yield other places to try.
black-k1 said:
There are often posts on this forum asking for recommendations on which bike to buy. These come from newbies looking for their first bike through to more experienced riders looking for their next bike. I hope this helps those looking for such advice.
Any bike is an ‘ideal’ bike as long as you are aware of the bikes abilities and limitations and, more importantly, your abilities and limitations. Physically larger bikes are perhaps a little more difficult for new riders as it takes a while to fully develop your balance both at slow speeds and when pushing the bike around the drive/garage/car park. As such, a physically larger bike tends to be heavier to hold up and harder to pick up when it falls over. Likewise, a faired bike is likely to be more expensive to repair if it falls over.
When asking others for advice most people will recommend a bike that they have/had themselves. This is as much about reinforcing their decision to buy that bike as it is about recommending that specific model as being significantly better than others on the market. In the current market it is very difficult to buy a bad bike! Sure, secondhand bikes that have not been looked after will potentially have big issues but this is not a feature of a specific make or model.
While sports bikes are by far the most popular category of bikes on the road, the sports/tourers, tourers, cruisers, super-motos, street bikes etc. all have something to offer. Unless you are able to ride you sports bike to it’s limit it will likely be no faster on the road than a bike from any of the other categories and the riders from the other categories will be able to comfortably take luggage, carry pillions, ride more than 100 miles between petrol stops, ride on poor surfaced roads etc.
When it comes to road performance, there is actually very little to choose between any bike from about 600cc upwards. Sure a litre bike will have 25mph more top end but the opportunities to use this on the road are extremely rare to say the least and, here in good old ‘Blighty’, you risk actually going to jail while using that extra 25mph. What the litre bike gains in top end, the 600 makes up for in ‘flick-ability’ through the twisties. The only advantage the litre bike really has is in low and mid-range torque, but if you’re happy revving the nuts off your 600 then that won’t matter. A well ridden 600 will easily leave behind a litre bike with a mediocre rider on it. (And most of us, if we’re honest, are somewhere in the mediocre rider category.)
When choosing a bike you will HAVE to listen to your heart but don’t ignore your head. It’s great to have the latest/quickest/fastest bike but are you actually gong to be able to use all that ability/performance when you are riding? It will inevitably cost more to buy/run/insure for something you’re never going to use. That’s not a problem as long as you are honest with yourself in admitting that you are paying for ‘pose-ability’ rather than practicality.
Try as many different makes, models, styles, and engine configurations as you can. Take as many test rides as you can and make them last as long as you can. Listen to the opinions of others but remember that they are likely to have a bias that is totally illogical and is aimed at meeting their needs, not yours. Open your mind up to the many alternatives that are available and most important of all; be honest with yourself as to what you actually want/can use/are willing to pay for. Then choose!
Advanced Training - Why Bother?Any bike is an ‘ideal’ bike as long as you are aware of the bikes abilities and limitations and, more importantly, your abilities and limitations. Physically larger bikes are perhaps a little more difficult for new riders as it takes a while to fully develop your balance both at slow speeds and when pushing the bike around the drive/garage/car park. As such, a physically larger bike tends to be heavier to hold up and harder to pick up when it falls over. Likewise, a faired bike is likely to be more expensive to repair if it falls over.
When asking others for advice most people will recommend a bike that they have/had themselves. This is as much about reinforcing their decision to buy that bike as it is about recommending that specific model as being significantly better than others on the market. In the current market it is very difficult to buy a bad bike! Sure, secondhand bikes that have not been looked after will potentially have big issues but this is not a feature of a specific make or model.
While sports bikes are by far the most popular category of bikes on the road, the sports/tourers, tourers, cruisers, super-motos, street bikes etc. all have something to offer. Unless you are able to ride you sports bike to it’s limit it will likely be no faster on the road than a bike from any of the other categories and the riders from the other categories will be able to comfortably take luggage, carry pillions, ride more than 100 miles between petrol stops, ride on poor surfaced roads etc.
When it comes to road performance, there is actually very little to choose between any bike from about 600cc upwards. Sure a litre bike will have 25mph more top end but the opportunities to use this on the road are extremely rare to say the least and, here in good old ‘Blighty’, you risk actually going to jail while using that extra 25mph. What the litre bike gains in top end, the 600 makes up for in ‘flick-ability’ through the twisties. The only advantage the litre bike really has is in low and mid-range torque, but if you’re happy revving the nuts off your 600 then that won’t matter. A well ridden 600 will easily leave behind a litre bike with a mediocre rider on it. (And most of us, if we’re honest, are somewhere in the mediocre rider category.)
When choosing a bike you will HAVE to listen to your heart but don’t ignore your head. It’s great to have the latest/quickest/fastest bike but are you actually gong to be able to use all that ability/performance when you are riding? It will inevitably cost more to buy/run/insure for something you’re never going to use. That’s not a problem as long as you are honest with yourself in admitting that you are paying for ‘pose-ability’ rather than practicality.
Try as many different makes, models, styles, and engine configurations as you can. Take as many test rides as you can and make them last as long as you can. Listen to the opinions of others but remember that they are likely to have a bias that is totally illogical and is aimed at meeting their needs, not yours. Open your mind up to the many alternatives that are available and most important of all; be honest with yourself as to what you actually want/can use/are willing to pay for. Then choose!
Good question - you have your licence, you are qualified, so why do you need more?
Taking quality-advanced training is like an awakening; it should result in your confidence and ability going sky high. No more bike with you sat on it, the two of you should become one, a fluid flowing style where its become hard to fit the grin in the crash helmet, that's what we are after. The added bonus should be that your safety margins increase in line with your new found skills.
The following resources show a wide variety of training options for the new (or experienced) rider; I'd recommend looking at all of them, Survival Skills "Riding Skills" section is an excellent resource for road riding tips:
Rapid Training www.rapidtraining.co.uk
RideDrive www.ridedrive.co.uk
UK Advanced www.advanced-motorcycle-training.co.uk
Survival Skills www.survivalskills.clara.net
More formally recognised training; may help reduce insurance premiums too!
BikeSafe www.bikesafe.co.uk
RoSPA www.rospa.com/drivertraining/courses/advanced_test...
IAM www.iam.org.uk
What to look for in a used bike
From rsvgone
For guidance. Others can expand this and add links;
1. Paperwork
■Always do an HPI check.
■Check correctness of V5 and whether it tallies with the seller's address
■Check the service history. Does it match mileage?
■Always come away with the new owner slip
■Get a hand written & signed receipt (may help if any problems arise)
■Review MOT document and check for 'Advisories' - if the mot cert details a number of advisories and the seller can't produce the advisory sheet then you can check what they were using this website... http://www.direct.gov.uk/en/Motoring/OwningAVehicl...
2. Frame & Engine
■Is the VIN clearly on the frame and unaltered?
■Does the engine number match the registration documents?
■Condition of forks- leaking seals, rusty/pitted fork stantions
■Clickingor play in the headstock bearings
■Condition of rear shock
■Dents/damage to the frame or tank- may indicate a drop
■If you can take along a 2m straight edge run it down the side of the bike to check the front/rear wheel alignment
■Check all fluid levels [oil / coolant / front & rear brake fluid plus clutch fluid]. Low levels suggest a less than scrupulous owner.
■Check when the valve clearances were last inspected / adjusted.
3. Consumables
■Condition of tyres. A set will cost you £150 upwards.
■Condition of Chain & Sprockets. A set will cost around £100 plus fitting costs.
■Does the bike fall apart when you kick the tyres? (answer should be no)
■Brakes- check for 'meat' on the pads & condition of discs (warped ones are expesive to replace)
■Oil- should be a nice brown colour, definitely not black & gloopy
■Fluid (brakes)- should be a slightly yellow but clear colour. Dark fluid indicates old stuff which may lead to other repairs, or an inidcation that the bike hasn't been serviced well.
Links
http://www.wikihow.com/Buy-a-Used-Motorcycle
■Check the condition of the drive chain and sprocket. The chain should have around ¾" of play (up and down) and the teeth of the sprocket should not show obvious damage or wear. Try to wiggle the chain side to side on the sprocket. There shouldn't be much movement on a good set. Have someone sit down on the motorcycle and check to make sure the chain is somewhat snug, with very little movement up and down. Chains wear out over time, but sprockets should last much longer. A severely worn sprocket indicates either an old sprocket or a poor maintenance schedule.
■The tires should have good tread all the way across the surface with no signs of uneven wear or damage. Daily drivers' tires will often have more wear in the middle on the tread (more highway driving). Others who've raced their motorcycle on the track, will have tires that show more wear at the edge of the tread.
■Sit on the bike. Look at the condition of the brake and clutch levers, bar-end weights, straightness of the bars and instrument cluster. These could be signs of an accident or drop. Others could be scratched engine cases, foot pegs or exhaust pipes. Hold the handbrake and bounce the front suspension. It should feel even and firm. Get off the bike and check the fork tubes for signs of rust, pitting and oil. These are signs of worn fork seals, or possible future expensive problems.
■While checking the forks, run a fingernail across the brake rotors, feeling for uneven wear or grooving. Look into the brake caliper to see how much of the pads are left. If the bike has spokes, check the overall condition of the individual spokes. For all types, look for dents or damage to the rim.
■Put the bike on its center stand if so equipped; turn the bars side to side. Feel for any 'notchy-ness' or roughness in the steering head.
■If possible, check the visible frame; remove the seat to see underneath it also. There should be no dents, kinks or visible damage to the frame. If there is, walk away.
■While the seat is off and you can access the battery, clip the multi-meter across the battery terminals and check the voltage. It should read no less than 12 volts. Start the engine. The meter should read no more than 14 volts or so while running. If it does, that may be a sign of a 'dodgy' voltage regulator and it may overcharge a battery and cause it to fail. Check the lights and indicators at this stage also. Pull a fuse or two out and check for corrosion. Do this with the engine off of course. Also, check the battery terminals and overall appearance of the battery. Replace the seat.
■Open the fuel tank and check for obvious signs of rust or corrosion using your flashlight (not a match or lighter)
■Inspect under fairings (if the motorcycle has fairings). Remove the same fairing the owner removes to change spark plugs and do routine maintenance. Check the frame for fatigue at the weld points. Inspect the overall condition of the engine block, plugs, and radiator. Check for leaks around the oil filter and oil pan bolt.
■Look at the brake fluid level. This is usually on top of handlebars, in an enclosure with a clear window. With the engine running, pull hard on the front brakes level and release while watching the fluid level. It should fall and rise. It should rise quickly once the brake is released.
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Edited by Tuscan Rat on Tuesday 27th January 18:04
Edited by Tuscan Rat on Thursday 25th August 11:12
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