Anyone know much about HID kits?
Discussion
Are they worth it? Do the BiB turn a blind eye to it all.
IIRC you need a jet wash and self levelling fitted to the lamp
Or, would it be better to upgrade the wiring to the headlamp & fit better bulbs? I'm sure I read somewhere that the bulbs weren't getting as much current/voltage as they could handle.
At least that way it would be both cheaper and wouldn't involve hacking my 7 anymore than is necessary.
IIRC you need a jet wash and self levelling fitted to the lamp
Or, would it be better to upgrade the wiring to the headlamp & fit better bulbs? I'm sure I read somewhere that the bulbs weren't getting as much current/voltage as they could handle.
At least that way it would be both cheaper and wouldn't involve hacking my 7 anymore than is necessary.
inman999 said:
I've done it on 2 cars and a bike and don't regret it. Kits can be had for around 40 quid.
I make sure my lens are kept clean inside and out and that the beam is aligned properly. Doesn't seem to piss anyone off and not had any hassle from the bib or MOT man.
So what would I need?I make sure my lens are kept clean inside and out and that the beam is aligned properly. Doesn't seem to piss anyone off and not had any hassle from the bib or MOT man.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/HID-XENON-SLIM-BALLAST-KIT-H...
Is that it? Just hook it up? Are the bulbs likely to melt any of the headlamp casing?
Edited by Vidal Baboon on Friday 22 October 15:46
D3fender said:
Dr Doofenshmirtz said:
A typical HID Balast will draw around 6.5 amps/90 watts at cold startup (which is more than a standard 55 watt/4 amp Halogen bulb at +2.5 amps). After about 20 seconds the current will drop to around 3.5 amps/48 watts. Your existing wiring should easily cope. You don't need a relay.
It's only the H4 Bi-xenon kits that require a separate power feed...the other kits take the power directly from the existing lighting wiring (which of course is already fused).
You're missing the point, it's not the startup draw that's the isssue, if one of the ballasts/ignitors/lamps shorts or if they develop a fault and 20kv's go through your electrical system then you'll wish you had wired directly to the battery and not to the existing wiring.It's only the H4 Bi-xenon kits that require a separate power feed...the other kits take the power directly from the existing lighting wiring (which of course is already fused).
Edited by Dr Doofenshmirtz on Friday 22 October 21:44
So if I was to hack into the headlamp loom:
Remove the permanent live to the HL Relay & rewire directly from the battery with an in-line fuse, that would do it right?
Edited by Vidal Baboon on Saturday 23 October 10:58
D3fender said:
Vidal Baboon said:
So if I was to hack into the headlamp loom:
Remove the permanent live to the HL Relay & rewire directly from the battery with an in-line fuse, that would do it right?
The existing HL + and - drive the relay, the relay is then wired to the battery with a fuse.Remove the permanent live to the HL Relay & rewire directly from the battery with an in-line fuse, that would do it right?
10A fuse sufficient?
Edited by Vidal Baboon on Saturday 23 October 11:35
D3fender said:
Vidal Baboon said:
D3fender said:
Vidal Baboon said:
So if I was to hack into the headlamp loom:
Remove the permanent live to the HL Relay & rewire directly from the battery with an in-line fuse, that would do it right?
The existing HL + and - drive the relay, the relay is then wired to the battery with a fuse.Remove the permanent live to the HL Relay & rewire directly from the battery with an in-line fuse, that would do it right?
10A fuse sufficient?
Yup, I've always fitted a 10a fuse on my kits, you can be overly cautious and fit a relay/fuse on each lamp, but I have one relay/fuse across both headlamps. Fit the fuse as near to the battery as possible.
Now, it would probably have to be that way (for ease of installing) so the DIPPED beam doesn't turn off when switching to MAIN beam.
As a matter of fact, I don't know if the current switch would work anyway- if it puts the power through the MB circiut & opens the circuit on DIPPED, I'll have to get a new switch gear.
I needed a thinner one anyway after fitting the 09 ZX6R twist grip & throttle tubes, it's too big & have had to space the bar end off the clip on by around 8mm.
Any ideas on how to rig it up so they only come on after the bike is running? Not very good having them running whilst cranking it over.
Edited by Vidal Baboon on Saturday 23 October 12:07
Grommit said:
My bike has the dipped headlight switched on all the time, the only switch being to go to main beam. Which is the best to upgrade to HID, dipped, main or both?
Thought the main beam was just standard Halogen? I was under the impression that when a normal halogen system is switched to main beam- the dipped beam system switches off.
I thought HID systems don't like being switched on/off repeatedly & were designed to keep the dipped beam on whilst switching to main.
Hooli said:
Vidal Baboon said:
Now, it would probably have to be that way (for ease of installing) so the DIPPED beam doesn't turn off when switching to MAIN beam.
Any ideas on how to rig it up so they only come on after the bike is running? Not very good having them running whilst cranking it over.
First bit, Diode connecting mainbeam to the dipped relay trigger wire.Any ideas on how to rig it up so they only come on after the bike is running? Not very good having them running whilst cranking it over.
Second one VSR?
Why or how would fitting a Diode keep the DIPPED relay trigger circuit closed? Any diagram- because I'm useless at picturing stuff in my mind
VSR? Voltage something Regulator? Thought about a capacitor, but that would still be draining the battery while cranking.
Edited by Vidal Baboon on Saturday 23 October 22:06
Dr Doofenshmirtz said:
If your dipped beam turns off when you switch to high beam (bad luck) - you can make this cheap circuit so the HID lights stay on all the time.
(Phear my l33t paint skillz)
So you locate the main and dipped beam wires, feed them both through an IN4001 diode to the relay. The capacitor just stops the relay clicking off too quickly when switching from high to dipped and visa-verse.
ETA(Phear my l33t paint skillz)
So you locate the main and dipped beam wires, feed them both through an IN4001 diode to the relay. The capacitor just stops the relay clicking off too quickly when switching from high to dipped and visa-verse.
Edited by Dr Doofenshmirtz on Sunday 24th October 21:54
Got it, thanks for that
Was having a brain fart moment.
Edited by Vidal Baboon on Monday 25th October 08:46
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