Bypassing The Immobiliser (Ignition Only)
Discussion
First off before I start the answer should be sent to me by PM for obvious reasons.
For the last six months I have been suffering from an intermittent starter fault.
Every so often I turn the key and get absolutely nothing from the starter, not even the faintest click.
The new starter motor checks out fine, and as long as the solenoid gets a good feed (which is does 90% of the time) it cranks the engine extremely well.
After a lot of messing about, a hot start kit, a new starter and some extensive testing, the fault seems to be within the immobiliser unit.
I have researched this on PH and had a chat with Carl Baker & it does seem the relays in the immobiliser are a common cause of this fault.
Carl explained the immobiliser relays were wired incorrectly by TVR which doesn't help the situation and the hot start kit I fitted may not improve my situation if these relays are past their best.
While I am saving up the pennies for Carl to put a new upgraded alarm system on the car I figured a quick fix to temporarily get around the fault would be to simply bypass the immobiliser on the ignition circuit.
Now I know some of you have already done this so I would be grateful one of you kindly PM me with how you configured your wiring.
I have my own ideas on how to wire it up that include utilising the hot start relay (& perhaps a hidden switch for added security) but I would be keen to know how others have done it.
I simply want to turn the key and know the car will start, the immobiliser still controls the live feed to the fuel pump so the car will remain secure.
Thanks in advance to anyone that can PM me the details.
For the last six months I have been suffering from an intermittent starter fault.
Every so often I turn the key and get absolutely nothing from the starter, not even the faintest click.
The new starter motor checks out fine, and as long as the solenoid gets a good feed (which is does 90% of the time) it cranks the engine extremely well.
After a lot of messing about, a hot start kit, a new starter and some extensive testing, the fault seems to be within the immobiliser unit.
I have researched this on PH and had a chat with Carl Baker & it does seem the relays in the immobiliser are a common cause of this fault.
Carl explained the immobiliser relays were wired incorrectly by TVR which doesn't help the situation and the hot start kit I fitted may not improve my situation if these relays are past their best.
While I am saving up the pennies for Carl to put a new upgraded alarm system on the car I figured a quick fix to temporarily get around the fault would be to simply bypass the immobiliser on the ignition circuit.
Now I know some of you have already done this so I would be grateful one of you kindly PM me with how you configured your wiring.
I have my own ideas on how to wire it up that include utilising the hot start relay (& perhaps a hidden switch for added security) but I would be keen to know how others have done it.
I simply want to turn the key and know the car will start, the immobiliser still controls the live feed to the fuel pump so the car will remain secure.
Thanks in advance to anyone that can PM me the details.
Edited by Chimpafrolic on Tuesday 7th June 16:58
WOO5IE said:
I may be wrong but doesnt the little plug-in fob thing by the ignition lock bypass the immobiliser or does it still need the relays etc working
I think you'll find that the little plug-in fob thing is just another way of disconnecting the immobiliser.I need to bypass the immobiliser completely on the ignition circuit.
The way I see it I just need a wire from the sprung part of the ignition switch to the starter solenoid with the addition of a relay to protect the switch.
Correct?
OK so I did the surgery yesterday, after a bit of testing with a meter the bypass actually required no additional wiring.
Taking great care to ensure the changes are completely reversible I eliminated the involvement of the Meta immobiliser on the starter solenoid circuit to establish if it would solve my annoying intermittent starting fault.
Once the correct wires were traced and the circuit was understood it was an amazingly simple job to eliminate the immobiliser on the circuit that energises the starter motor solenoid.
It ended up being a really neat and simple connection that involved very little invasive surgery of the loom, pleasingly it also retains the hot start relay to protect the contacts within the ignition switch in the start position.
Recently the starting fault had become so bad almost every time I have tried to start the engine I got absolutely nothing with the key in the start position.
It had also just started to develop the habit of occasionally blowing the ignition fuse in the fuse board & my hot start kit fuse too
It always eventually started but only after the fifth, sixth or seventh turn of the key, so something had to be done.
Well I have now extensively tested the car's ability to start both hot and cold and so far my bypass seems to have completely resolved the problem.
I have gone from totally unreliable starting, to a car that starts first time, every time I turn the key
That cheap new Ex-MoD Prestolite Land Rover V8 starter I got from EBay was perfect after all.
In fact the Prestolite starter sounds super smooth and has massive cranking power, way better than my condemned original which thinking about it is also likely to be without fault.
This excellent Prestolite starter is available from Brookwell Land Rover Parts at a very reasonable price.
http://www.brookwell.co.uk/item/243/replacement-st...
I now have the old original & a brand new expensive PowerLite starter for sale, both working perfectly and all for the sake of a duff relay in the immobiliser
Its been an expensive, highly frustrating but ultimately very rewarding journey, without this forum it certainly would have taking me much longer to trace the fault.
Many thanks to everyone that helped me and in turn I hope my experiences help others with this fault and stops them spending unnecessarily like I did.
OK so I accept you could call the bypass a bodge, & yes I could have fixed it properly by spending over £500.00 with Carl Baker for a new alarm; & when funds permit I probably still will take this option.
But for now my solution cost me nothing more than a few connectors and an hour of my time, it's completely reversible and because the immobiliser still controls the live feed to the fuel pump the car's security is in no way compromised.
I call that a result
PS: If I want to, it's now possible to crank the engine on the starter without fuel, so perfect for bring the oil pressure up (without starting the engine) after an oil change.
Taking great care to ensure the changes are completely reversible I eliminated the involvement of the Meta immobiliser on the starter solenoid circuit to establish if it would solve my annoying intermittent starting fault.
Once the correct wires were traced and the circuit was understood it was an amazingly simple job to eliminate the immobiliser on the circuit that energises the starter motor solenoid.
It ended up being a really neat and simple connection that involved very little invasive surgery of the loom, pleasingly it also retains the hot start relay to protect the contacts within the ignition switch in the start position.
Recently the starting fault had become so bad almost every time I have tried to start the engine I got absolutely nothing with the key in the start position.
It had also just started to develop the habit of occasionally blowing the ignition fuse in the fuse board & my hot start kit fuse too
It always eventually started but only after the fifth, sixth or seventh turn of the key, so something had to be done.
Well I have now extensively tested the car's ability to start both hot and cold and so far my bypass seems to have completely resolved the problem.
I have gone from totally unreliable starting, to a car that starts first time, every time I turn the key
That cheap new Ex-MoD Prestolite Land Rover V8 starter I got from EBay was perfect after all.
In fact the Prestolite starter sounds super smooth and has massive cranking power, way better than my condemned original which thinking about it is also likely to be without fault.
This excellent Prestolite starter is available from Brookwell Land Rover Parts at a very reasonable price.
http://www.brookwell.co.uk/item/243/replacement-st...
I now have the old original & a brand new expensive PowerLite starter for sale, both working perfectly and all for the sake of a duff relay in the immobiliser
Its been an expensive, highly frustrating but ultimately very rewarding journey, without this forum it certainly would have taking me much longer to trace the fault.
Many thanks to everyone that helped me and in turn I hope my experiences help others with this fault and stops them spending unnecessarily like I did.
OK so I accept you could call the bypass a bodge, & yes I could have fixed it properly by spending over £500.00 with Carl Baker for a new alarm; & when funds permit I probably still will take this option.
But for now my solution cost me nothing more than a few connectors and an hour of my time, it's completely reversible and because the immobiliser still controls the live feed to the fuel pump the car's security is in no way compromised.
I call that a result
PS: If I want to, it's now possible to crank the engine on the starter without fuel, so perfect for bring the oil pressure up (without starting the engine) after an oil change.
Edited by Chimpafrolic on Sunday 12th June 18:37
TV8 said:
Hi i would be interested in having this wiring fix emailed to me as well please. I am sure my alarm system is the thing that eats my stored volts when the car is parked up!
Hi TV8,This is not going to be a fix for the classic TVR parasitic drain.
My bypass is to solve what is often referred to as the hot start problem.
After the bypass the immobiliser and alarm remain connected.
The drain from the immobiliser and alarm system will therefore remain too.
If you have access to a mains power socket close to the car, I recommend the Halfords maintenance charger as a cheap fix.
This little device completely solved the drain problem for me.
If you don't have access to mains power, disconnect the clock, make sure you remove the face of the stereo when you leave the car and fit a PriorityStart or BatteryBrain.
This will give you a couple of weeks before the voltage drops to a level where the PriorityStart or BatteryBrain cuts in to protect the battery from draining any more.
You should then be able to simply re-engage your PriorityStart or BatteryBrain & start the car even after a couple of months of inactivity.
Ultimately though, the best solution for the parasitic drain problem is to drive the car once a week, this will keep the battery charged and everything else working as it should.
No car likes to be left standing for long periods.
tvrman said:
Morning,
Is it possible for you to also send to me the details of your modification. I only ask as I have found on a few occasions the immobiliser not protecting the starter, so I assume the immobiliser is on the way out. I would prefer to take it out, before it fails and leaves me stranded.
Cheers Ian
No problem Ian, just drop me a PM & I will send you the details.Is it possible for you to also send to me the details of your modification. I only ask as I have found on a few occasions the immobiliser not protecting the starter, so I assume the immobiliser is on the way out. I would prefer to take it out, before it fails and leaves me stranded.
Cheers Ian
I'm sure you will be more courteous than the last chap I sent the instructions to, who sadly didn't see fit to say thanks
Best regards, Dave.
BennyHill said:
Chimpafrolic - Please can you send me details of this wiring mod. I have a similiar intermittent non start problem which so far I have managed to overcome by thumping the lower dash to free the sticking immobilier relays. Carl Baker tells me that a new unit is required but at the moment I do not have the funds. Your mod should keep me going until the piggy bank is refilled. Many thanks, Derek
YHM 
SILICONEKID345HP said:
Just fit a relay in the engine bay somewhere , job done . Never had a problem since
Jools made an harness up with heat protective sleeving ,Happy days
Just adding a relay is not the full answer, if the current is still passing through the immobiliser and the relay inside the immobiliser is damaged no amount of additional relays will help.Jools made an harness up with heat protective sleeving ,Happy days
Edited by SILICONEKID345HP on Saturday 23 May 17:10
If anyone wants to bypass their immobiliser all they need do is PM me, to date I've helped over 100 Chimaera & Griffith owners do just that.
TBH it's a piece of pish and costs pennies
SILICONEKID345HP said:
ChimpOnGas said:
Just adding a relay is not the full answer, if the current is still passing through the immobiliser and the relay inside the immobiliser is damaged no amount of additional relays will help.
If anyone wants to bypass their immobiliser all they need do is PM me, to date I've helped over 100 Chimaera & Griffith owners do just that.
TBH it's a piece of pish and costs pennies
Can you post with pictures the cure ..If anyone wants to bypass their immobiliser all they need do is PM me, to date I've helped over 100 Chimaera & Griffith owners do just that.
TBH it's a piece of pish and costs pennies
SILICONEKID345HP said:
ChimpOnGas said:
No, as I expect the TVR police on here would hang me for some sort of security breach.
What about a picture the immobiliser and its location ,that would be a starting point .http://www.abacuscaralarms.co.uk/tvr-alarms.html
Simply scroll down the page a bit.
The rest doesn't take a genius, just a multimeter and a bit logic
Ok I give in, after all the information is out there on the Abacus Alarms website anyway so I'm not revealing anything that can't be found easily by anyone who chooses to search for it.
The immobiliser sits behind the head unit while the alarm unit sits under the dash top, it's important to understand they are paired together. You can not replace one without the other or at least getting the help from a Meta expert.
You can complete the bypass utilising the existing loom, but probably the simplest way to bypass the Meta system and it's failing internal relay is to leave the above two units well alone.
Simply run a new wire direct from the sprung start terminal on the ignition switch to trigger a relay, use a quality four terminal 12v 30amp fused relay mounting it somewhere dry and easily accessible but as close to the starter solenoid as possible.
Triggering the switching side of a relay (terminal 86) from the sprung start position will mean the contacts inside your ignition switch will only ever have to deal a low amp load.
For this reason the relay is essential to ensure switch longevity as it was not designed to take a lot of amps, the Vauxhall ignition switch was never the most robust at the best of times and it's probably almost 20 years old now, so don't overload it!
Take your higher amp live to directly supply the starter solenoid from the battery or thick red starter lead, connecting it to terminal 30 on your relay, then run a second wire from relay terminal 87 to the starter solenoid itself.
The starter solenoid will pull around 10-15 amps max during cranking but I would specify a wire gauge capable to taking 30 amps as there is no harm using slightly heavier gauge but you certainly don't want it too light.
Finish the job by earthing your relay from terminal 85, on a TVR by far the most reliable earth is always going to be the negative battery terminal.
You've now created a brand new starter solenoid circuit completely bypassing the Meta system with the ignition switch terminal properly protected by a relay and the whole circuit protected by a 30amp fuse.
Because the Meta system has now been bypassed what you'll find is you can crank the engine on the key without pressing your alarm fob, but because the ECU live is still passing through the Meta system you will not be able to start the car until you disengage the immobiliser.
The ECU runs the fuel pump for a few seconds to prime the fuel rail, that's the buzz you hear when you disengage the immobiliser, it will only run the fuel pump continuously when the ECU sees an RPM signal (IE cranking or engine running).
You could bypass the Meta system on the ECU circuit too, and in exactly the same way as I've explained on the starter solenoid circuit, but this is seldom needed. Should you choose complete the double bypass you will need to add back in some form of immobilisation to ensure the car is secure when left.
The best way to do this would be to add a second relay and a momentary switch to your newly created starter solenoid circuit.
This clever little 'logic' circuit works like this.....
1. Turn the ignition key to the "ignition on" position (warning lights on)
2. Press and release your hidden momentary switch
3. Turn the key to the "sprung start" position, crank & start the engine as normal
The button press momentarily energises the coil of Relay 1 which allows +12V out of terminal 87 and into terminal 86. This has the effect of keeping the coil energised after the button is released (note that whilst the button is pressed there is 0V between terminals 86 and 87).
Terminal 87 also sends power to the coil of Relay 2 which enables the starter motor solenoid connection and ready for when the key is turned to the "sprung start" position.
And now for the clever bit...
When the ignition is turned off the power to the coil of relay 1 is cut which cuts the power to the coil in Relay 2 and breaks the starter motor solenoid circuit, so the engine cannot be started again without going through the above routine.
You will never forget to immobilise the car when you leave it because with the double relay & hidden momentary switch system is always activated automatically when you switch off & remove the key.
Here's how this clever double relay immobiliser circuit looks in a schematic drawing:
Remember, you only really need this system if you have bypassed the Meta system on both the starter solenoid & ECU circuits that pass through it.
The truth is the little relay inside the the Meta unit is over specified for the very low amps drawn by the ECU so it seldom gives issues, this is because TVR used the higher amp Meta internal relay (designed for the starter solenoid)for the ECU. They then used the lower amp rated internal relay for the much more demanding starter solenoid circuit, basically they got their wiring back to front
This is why it fails!!!
The very common "Hot Start" issue is actually a bit misleading, it should really be called the "Meta internal relay failure = no start" issue. The only reason the problem first raises it's ugly head when the car is hot is because resistance in any electrical circuit increases dramatically with a rise in temperature.
Eventually the relay will fail completely irrespective of temperature, at which point you'll have a "cold start" issue too
Sadly it's no good just switching the circuits around so you're using the correctly rated internal Meta relays as the damage to the low amp relay will already have taken place.
For this very same reason you can not permanently fix the "Hot Start" issue with the hot start kit, you may temporarily elevate the symptoms but because the feed to the starter solenoid is still being passed through the damaged Meta low amp internal relay the problem is sure to return.
And Sodd's law dictates it'll be certain to happen one dark and rainy night miles from home!
The only permanent fix for what is known as the "Hot Start" issue is to complete the above bypass, or better still have the Meta system (with it's damaged internal relay) replaced by someone who understands what they're doing.
My advice is.. Don't rely on the hot start kit to solve the problem, at best it'll mask the real issue and at worst it'll fool you into thinking you've fixed the problem only for you to find you've broken down in the middle of nowhere with no easy way of getting out of trouble.
You have been warned!
The immobiliser sits behind the head unit while the alarm unit sits under the dash top, it's important to understand they are paired together. You can not replace one without the other or at least getting the help from a Meta expert.
You can complete the bypass utilising the existing loom, but probably the simplest way to bypass the Meta system and it's failing internal relay is to leave the above two units well alone.
Simply run a new wire direct from the sprung start terminal on the ignition switch to trigger a relay, use a quality four terminal 12v 30amp fused relay mounting it somewhere dry and easily accessible but as close to the starter solenoid as possible.
Triggering the switching side of a relay (terminal 86) from the sprung start position will mean the contacts inside your ignition switch will only ever have to deal a low amp load.
For this reason the relay is essential to ensure switch longevity as it was not designed to take a lot of amps, the Vauxhall ignition switch was never the most robust at the best of times and it's probably almost 20 years old now, so don't overload it!
Take your higher amp live to directly supply the starter solenoid from the battery or thick red starter lead, connecting it to terminal 30 on your relay, then run a second wire from relay terminal 87 to the starter solenoid itself.
The starter solenoid will pull around 10-15 amps max during cranking but I would specify a wire gauge capable to taking 30 amps as there is no harm using slightly heavier gauge but you certainly don't want it too light.
Finish the job by earthing your relay from terminal 85, on a TVR by far the most reliable earth is always going to be the negative battery terminal
.You've now created a brand new starter solenoid circuit completely bypassing the Meta system with the ignition switch terminal properly protected by a relay and the whole circuit protected by a 30amp fuse.
Because the Meta system has now been bypassed what you'll find is you can crank the engine on the key without pressing your alarm fob, but because the ECU live is still passing through the Meta system you will not be able to start the car until you disengage the immobiliser.
The ECU runs the fuel pump for a few seconds to prime the fuel rail, that's the buzz you hear when you disengage the immobiliser, it will only run the fuel pump continuously when the ECU sees an RPM signal (IE cranking or engine running).
You could bypass the Meta system on the ECU circuit too, and in exactly the same way as I've explained on the starter solenoid circuit, but this is seldom needed. Should you choose complete the double bypass you will need to add back in some form of immobilisation to ensure the car is secure when left.
The best way to do this would be to add a second relay and a momentary switch to your newly created starter solenoid circuit.
This clever little 'logic' circuit works like this.....
1. Turn the ignition key to the "ignition on" position (warning lights on)
2. Press and release your hidden momentary switch
3. Turn the key to the "sprung start" position, crank & start the engine as normal
The button press momentarily energises the coil of Relay 1 which allows +12V out of terminal 87 and into terminal 86. This has the effect of keeping the coil energised after the button is released (note that whilst the button is pressed there is 0V between terminals 86 and 87).
Terminal 87 also sends power to the coil of Relay 2 which enables the starter motor solenoid connection and ready for when the key is turned to the "sprung start" position.
And now for the clever bit...
When the ignition is turned off the power to the coil of relay 1 is cut which cuts the power to the coil in Relay 2 and breaks the starter motor solenoid circuit, so the engine cannot be started again without going through the above routine.
You will never forget to immobilise the car when you leave it because with the double relay & hidden momentary switch system is always activated automatically when you switch off & remove the key.
Here's how this clever double relay immobiliser circuit looks in a schematic drawing:
Remember, you only really need this system if you have bypassed the Meta system on both the starter solenoid & ECU circuits that pass through it.
The truth is the little relay inside the the Meta unit is over specified for the very low amps drawn by the ECU so it seldom gives issues, this is because TVR used the higher amp Meta internal relay (designed for the starter solenoid)for the ECU. They then used the lower amp rated internal relay for the much more demanding starter solenoid circuit, basically they got their wiring back to front
This is why it fails!!!
The very common "Hot Start" issue is actually a bit misleading, it should really be called the "Meta internal relay failure = no start" issue. The only reason the problem first raises it's ugly head when the car is hot is because resistance in any electrical circuit increases dramatically with a rise in temperature.
Eventually the relay will fail completely irrespective of temperature, at which point you'll have a "cold start" issue too
Sadly it's no good just switching the circuits around so you're using the correctly rated internal Meta relays as the damage to the low amp relay will already have taken place.
For this very same reason you can not permanently fix the "Hot Start" issue with the hot start kit, you may temporarily elevate the symptoms but because the feed to the starter solenoid is still being passed through the damaged Meta low amp internal relay the problem is sure to return.
And Sodd's law dictates it'll be certain to happen one dark and rainy night miles from home!
The only permanent fix for what is known as the "Hot Start" issue is to complete the above bypass, or better still have the Meta system (with it's damaged internal relay) replaced by someone who understands what they're doing.
My advice is.. Don't rely on the hot start kit to solve the problem, at best it'll mask the real issue and at worst it'll fool you into thinking you've fixed the problem only for you to find you've broken down in the middle of nowhere with no easy way of getting out of trouble.
You have been warned!
I've sent my bypass instructions to over 100 TVR owners now and completed the bypass for a few owners that weren't confident to do it themselves. It my help to understand the immobiliser is just a switch, a switch in this case you remotely turn on or off with your IR key fob rather than how you would flick a traditional switch with your finger.
As such the bypass process is very straightforward, indeed it's no more complex than bypassing any other type of switch, but I always encourage owners who contact me for my bypass instructions to completely satisfy themselves the immobiliser genuinely is the source of their starting issue.
There are actually a number of potential starting faults that tend to afflict these cars, not least the fact TVR never used a dedicated relay on the starter solenoid circuit. TVR also used a lighter gauge starter cable than was ideal, and the starter motor is subject to lot of heat that can cause premature failure of the starter motor itself and or it's solenoid.
It's been my experience that if you go through the whole starter system you may find there is more than one issue, each one in isolation may not by itself cause the no-start condition, but combine two or more partially failing elements and it can often be enough to give a permanent or more likely intermittent issue like the so called 'Hot Start' fault.
There is something available on the market called the 'Hot Start Kt' which claims (quite bullishly) to solve the starting problems these car's often suffer from, but the truth is it's just a relay and while it does address one of the known faults it cannot and will not fix the other common issues.
One of theses issues may (or may not) be the immobiliser that TVR in their wisdom wired back to front. TVR ran the low amp ECU circuit through the high amp relay inside the immobiliser and the higher amp starter solenoid circuit through the low amp relay inside the immobiliser, if the immobiliser or more specifically the failing relay inside the immobiliser is your problem then the 'Hot Start Kit' isn't going to help you one bit, if your starter cable is on it's last legs the 'Hot Start Kit' won't help there either
If both your immobiliser and your starter cable are begining to fail then the 'Hot Start Kit' will not fix your issue, it can't fix a dodgy starter motor or a failing starter solenoid either, saying that an immobiliser bypass or a new heavier gauge starter cable won't fix these to things either.
Hopefully this helps explain why I am so careful to encourage people to systematically check each element and component in their starter system using a test meter before they jump to any conclusions, this is how a good professional auto-electrician approaches his work, please make sure you follow this example or you'll be trying to fix your problem by blindly replacing components and adding the so called hot start kit in the hope you'll get lucky and fix the problem.
Be careful of things that are being marketed as a 'cure all', because life is seldom that simple
The truth is there is no magic bullet fix here, and in my opinion people shouldn't be selling a relay kit without first making sure they carefully explain to their customers how to properly test the entire starting system and all it's components/wiring first. The real issue isn't whether the 'Hot Start Kit' works or not (it does), it's whether you really need it in the first place?
The final thing to always keep in mind is there can often be a combination of faults, the 'Hot Start Kit' may just be masking another underlying issue that really needs addressing too. For example if your starter solenoid is on the way out and performing marginally the 'Hot Start Kit' will quite possibly be enough to solve the immediate starting problem (more amps), but has it fixed your poorly performing starter solenoid? no it hasn't! What the 'Hot Start Kit' has done is helped one of the two issues which was just enough to deliver a temporary fix.
The key word here is temporary, even after fitting the hot start kit your sickly starter solenoid remains on the way out, so while the car now starts when hot the 'Hot Start Kit' is really just lulling you into a false sense of security by masking another fault. And as sure as eggs are eggs one dark night just when you don't need it that iffy starter solenoid of yours will give out once and for all.... and no amount of 'Hot Start Kits' will save you.
Don't buy into the 'Magic Bullet' hot start kit hype, begin my understating exactly how the entire starting system works and the function of each component (including the immobiliser). Then test everything systematically in the starter circuit using a test meter like a professional would and you'll be well on the way to fixing your problem properly, and permanently too.
Hope this helps?
If you do indeed discover the issue resides inside your immobiliser please feel free to PM me and I will be pleased to send you my simple bypass instructions, but do make 100% sure that you've first completed your comprehensive and systematic multimeter diagnostic tests on the entire starter circuit and all it's related components.
The above is advice offered by one TVR enthusiast to his fellow TVR enthusiasts for free and in the hope it will help someone, unlike others I am not running a business here, or profiting from this common fault by selling a simple relay and claiming it will fix your problem.
Dave.
As such the bypass process is very straightforward, indeed it's no more complex than bypassing any other type of switch, but I always encourage owners who contact me for my bypass instructions to completely satisfy themselves the immobiliser genuinely is the source of their starting issue.
There are actually a number of potential starting faults that tend to afflict these cars, not least the fact TVR never used a dedicated relay on the starter solenoid circuit. TVR also used a lighter gauge starter cable than was ideal, and the starter motor is subject to lot of heat that can cause premature failure of the starter motor itself and or it's solenoid.
It's been my experience that if you go through the whole starter system you may find there is more than one issue, each one in isolation may not by itself cause the no-start condition, but combine two or more partially failing elements and it can often be enough to give a permanent or more likely intermittent issue like the so called 'Hot Start' fault.
There is something available on the market called the 'Hot Start Kt' which claims (quite bullishly) to solve the starting problems these car's often suffer from, but the truth is it's just a relay and while it does address one of the known faults it cannot and will not fix the other common issues.
One of theses issues may (or may not) be the immobiliser that TVR in their wisdom wired back to front. TVR ran the low amp ECU circuit through the high amp relay inside the immobiliser and the higher amp starter solenoid circuit through the low amp relay inside the immobiliser, if the immobiliser or more specifically the failing relay inside the immobiliser is your problem then the 'Hot Start Kit' isn't going to help you one bit, if your starter cable is on it's last legs the 'Hot Start Kit' won't help there either
If both your immobiliser and your starter cable are begining to fail then the 'Hot Start Kit' will not fix your issue, it can't fix a dodgy starter motor or a failing starter solenoid either, saying that an immobiliser bypass or a new heavier gauge starter cable won't fix these to things either.
Hopefully this helps explain why I am so careful to encourage people to systematically check each element and component in their starter system using a test meter before they jump to any conclusions, this is how a good professional auto-electrician approaches his work, please make sure you follow this example or you'll be trying to fix your problem by blindly replacing components and adding the so called hot start kit in the hope you'll get lucky and fix the problem.
Be careful of things that are being marketed as a 'cure all', because life is seldom that simple
The truth is there is no magic bullet fix here, and in my opinion people shouldn't be selling a relay kit without first making sure they carefully explain to their customers how to properly test the entire starting system and all it's components/wiring first. The real issue isn't whether the 'Hot Start Kit' works or not (it does), it's whether you really need it in the first place?
The final thing to always keep in mind is there can often be a combination of faults, the 'Hot Start Kit' may just be masking another underlying issue that really needs addressing too. For example if your starter solenoid is on the way out and performing marginally the 'Hot Start Kit' will quite possibly be enough to solve the immediate starting problem (more amps), but has it fixed your poorly performing starter solenoid? no it hasn't! What the 'Hot Start Kit' has done is helped one of the two issues which was just enough to deliver a temporary fix.
The key word here is temporary, even after fitting the hot start kit your sickly starter solenoid remains on the way out, so while the car now starts when hot the 'Hot Start Kit' is really just lulling you into a false sense of security by masking another fault. And as sure as eggs are eggs one dark night just when you don't need it that iffy starter solenoid of yours will give out once and for all.... and no amount of 'Hot Start Kits' will save you.
Don't buy into the 'Magic Bullet' hot start kit hype, begin my understating exactly how the entire starting system works and the function of each component (including the immobiliser). Then test everything systematically in the starter circuit using a test meter like a professional would and you'll be well on the way to fixing your problem properly, and permanently too.
Hope this helps?
If you do indeed discover the issue resides inside your immobiliser please feel free to PM me and I will be pleased to send you my simple bypass instructions, but do make 100% sure that you've first completed your comprehensive and systematic multimeter diagnostic tests on the entire starter circuit and all it's related components.
The above is advice offered by one TVR enthusiast to his fellow TVR enthusiasts for free and in the hope it will help someone, unlike others I am not running a business here, or profiting from this common fault by selling a simple relay and claiming it will fix your problem.
Dave.
Three ways to do it...
1. The proper way - Have one of the TVR alarm specialists fit a new system or get the DIY TVR kit from Abacus
2. Bypass the system on the starter solenoid circuit - I have instructions but you'll need to PM me
3. Simply run a new wire from the sprung start position terminal on your ignition switch to the starter solenoid
In all cases it's best practice to use a relay, the relay TVR deemed unnecessary.
A relay will extent the life of the contacts in your ignition switch and ensure you're putting full helping of amps to the starter solenoid, you can get away without a relay as TVR did..... but it's always best practice to fit one.
Dave.
1. The proper way - Have one of the TVR alarm specialists fit a new system or get the DIY TVR kit from Abacus
2. Bypass the system on the starter solenoid circuit - I have instructions but you'll need to PM me
3. Simply run a new wire from the sprung start position terminal on your ignition switch to the starter solenoid
In all cases it's best practice to use a relay, the relay TVR deemed unnecessary
.A relay will extent the life of the contacts in your ignition switch and ensure you're putting full helping of amps to the starter solenoid, you can get away without a relay as TVR did..... but it's always best practice to fit one.
Dave.
Hi Robbe,
The blue switch adjacent/behind the ignition switch is normally where TVR put the heated seat switch, but it's usually black.... well it is on my 1996 Chimaera
One of the two switches you show under the dash (probably the black one) will likely be for turning your dash lights off at night, put your headlights on in the dark and experiment to see if it turns your gauge illumination on and off.
The orange switch is just for the Dutch and you should only press it on Kings Day
, but seriously it could be for a fresh air fan in the footwell as I believe some earlier Chimaeras had this feature, try it with the engine off and listen for a fan motor noise. If the orange switch doesn't summon up the Dutch Royal Family or turn a fan on it may well be your immobiliser switch, but it would be a later addition by a former owner if it is.
I've responded to your PM and sent you my immobiliser bypass instructions, these are for the later Meta system but the basic principles will be the same, but to be honest with TVRs you are far better off using a test meter to confirm the purpose of those switches and the origins of wiring as nothing was what you might call standardized, in some cases two TVRs produced in the same year could be wired quite differently in a number of respects.
Good luck with it, Dave
The blue switch adjacent/behind the ignition switch is normally where TVR put the heated seat switch, but it's usually black.... well it is on my 1996 Chimaera
One of the two switches you show under the dash (probably the black one) will likely be for turning your dash lights off at night, put your headlights on in the dark and experiment to see if it turns your gauge illumination on and off.
The orange switch is just for the Dutch and you should only press it on Kings Day
, but seriously it could be for a fresh air fan in the footwell as I believe some earlier Chimaeras had this feature, try it with the engine off and listen for a fan motor noise. If the orange switch doesn't summon up the Dutch Royal Family or turn a fan on it may well be your immobiliser switch, but it would be a later addition by a former owner if it is.I've responded to your PM and sent you my immobiliser bypass instructions, these are for the later Meta system but the basic principles will be the same, but to be honest with TVRs you are far better off using a test meter to confirm the purpose of those switches and the origins of wiring as nothing was what you might call standardized, in some cases two TVRs produced in the same year could be wired quite differently in a number of respects.
Good luck with it, Dave
RobbeS said:
Hi Dave,
thanks very much, email has been replied to.
I am a bit late summoning the Royal family, as that was last Friday
Will test the buttons in various conditions (engine cold/dark etc) and will report back after the weekend (leaving for a short holiday)
thanks very much, email has been replied to.
I am a bit late summoning the Royal family, as that was last Friday
Will test the buttons in various conditions (engine cold/dark etc) and will report back after the weekend (leaving for a short holiday)
Hope it made you laugh?
Let me know how you get on and don't hesitate to ask if you have any more questions.
Best of luck, Dave.
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