rear wheel bearing nut

[SSPPGG]

if you tighten this after a bearing replacement to 200ftlb, does the wheel become hard to turn by hand? will this free up after a few miles?

ive had a new bearing fail, and wonder if my torque setting was incorrect. if anything it was under 200lb, as when i went to 200, the wheel became too tight to turn by hand.

is this normal?

[SSPPGG]

no, all new bearings, seated in a proper press one by one. tightened to 180lb fine, the last 20ftlb just locked them so you couldnt turn them without an effort

cant get a feeler gauge between the race and the seat anywhere....so i think they were tightly seated.

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Simon says said:

The bearings will be pre-loaded initially on assembly (tight-ish) how tight is the hub to turn can you grab all four stud between both hands and rotate it? you should experience a nice smooth drag feel as it turns don't forget you are rotating the drive-shaft assy (if fitted yet) + the drag of new bearings the hub wont just rotate freely in your hands, does it rotate without jamming or tight spots? better still why don't you wind down your torque wrench and post up how much torque it takes to rotate after you have re-torqued the hub nut to spec 0

at 200lb, i can't turn the hub by hand, but with the wheel on i can.

there are no tight spots or graunches, no drag from brakes or anything, it is smooth, but just feels "a bit on the tight side" if I use 200ftlb....maybe it is just my torque wrench off cal, and an indicated 180 is actually closer to 200?

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Simon says said:

You cant over tighten/over-pre load the bearings with that hub nut that value is just what Ford settled on to hold the whole lot together the pre-load is designed in the bearings and hub assy if you put the 2 old races together the inner case of the bearings meet in the middle so they are totally non-adjustable, if the assy it rotating smoothly then I would just put the car together and try it out, you may find you are just worrying about the initial pre-load feeling tight it obviously loosens up when releasing the hub nut as the pre-load then disappears

sounds like a plan.

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carsy said:

Have you pushed the dust seals all the way home. I failed to do so on one of mine which resulted in same as yourself. Just a thought.

i will check when i do them again...waiting on parts.

i've done loads of bearings, never had an issue, but after just 500 miles, these were squeeking both sides, one failed, and the other is on its way, ....cant believe i got both sides wrong

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Simon says said:

Who is the bearing brand as in on the bearings themselves? SKF, NSK, NAK etc, only there is some very poor quality/inferior bearings circulating now this as only sprung up in recent years to be honest I really cant see how this job can be fked up to be honest so something is def amiss That's not a pop by the way SSPPGG

no worroes, I didnt take it as a "pop" at all, i'm more than happy to disclose my fubars!, I've built a few replicas, very happy wielding spanners, but for the life of me, I just cant see why these bearings have failed within 1000 miles. correct torques, correct lubricants etc etc, I don't recall the brand (and ive discarded what ive pulled), I do recall 45 quid a corner, so I dont think they were the cheapies...