JFReturns' TVR Chimaera 4.0
Discussion
Hi all,
I've been lurking on the Chim sub forum for a while, soaking up the collective knowledge and reading up about what is my favourite (affordable) TVR. Now I've got one, so thought I would introduce myself and keep a record of ownership!
I've got a copy of Steve Heath's Chimaera / Griffith bible and will use it to learn the car. I've got very little mechanical knowledge or skills so I might have a few questions here and there. Other than, the only immediate plans are to sort the paint work and get some new rear tyres. Oh and drive it, and soon as the weather improves!
Robert.
P.S. I still can't believe I own this car; I keep going out the garage and staring at it!
I've been lurking on the Chim sub forum for a while, soaking up the collective knowledge and reading up about what is my favourite (affordable) TVR. Now I've got one, so thought I would introduce myself and keep a record of ownership!
I've got a copy of Steve Heath's Chimaera / Griffith bible and will use it to learn the car. I've got very little mechanical knowledge or skills so I might have a few questions here and there. Other than, the only immediate plans are to sort the paint work and get some new rear tyres. Oh and drive it, and soon as the weather improves!
Robert.
P.S. I still can't believe I own this car; I keep going out the garage and staring at it!
Thanks for the replies and warm welcome chaps 
She's a 98, nothing wrong with the paint (bloody good actually), just a few swirls marks and light scratches that I'll polish out. I'll also seal and wax the wheels and bodywork.
Just got back from a drive, I had to take her out couldn't wait any more! She felt quick, more so than any of my other cars with a brutal delivery that even the WRX STi couldn't match. And the sound
If anyone lives around Whitstable high street, I apologise for driving around in first gear 
Rubbishy interior shot as requested:
She's a 98, nothing wrong with the paint (bloody good actually), just a few swirls marks and light scratches that I'll polish out. I'll also seal and wax the wheels and bodywork.
Just got back from a drive, I had to take her out couldn't wait any more! She felt quick, more so than any of my other cars with a brutal delivery that even the WRX STi couldn't match. And the sound
If anyone lives around Whitstable high street, I apologise for driving around in first gear Rubbishy interior shot as requested:
Weather still cold and rubbish so not had a drive since Saturday. To keep the battery charged and oil circulating I've been starting her up and gently revving for ten minutes or so until the fans kick in. Also checking the coolant, oil etc.
What I have noticed:
- There are some minor oil leaks, but the oil level on the dipstick hasn't moved
- There is also a coolant leak, with a small 2 inch puddle forming since my last drive
- She is grumpy when cold! Starts fine, idle hunts and car does not rev cleanly until warmed slightly (about two or three minutes)
I'm not too bothered by the oil leaks as they are minor, but the coolant leak is a bit more concerning. I've topped it up via the expansion tank and will check before and after every drive. I'll also get her up on the ramps and see if I can pin point the leak, but if anyone has any tips for a mechanical novice please let me know!
I think I have a serpentine engine, please someone correct me if I'm wrong:
She runs beautifully once warm, belts look tight, no knocks or anything of concern. However, there does seem to be an after market air filter (K&N by the looks of things). I'm not too keen on the idea of this, as the engine bay gets very hot so there may be some heatsoak? Does anyone else run one, or should I plug in the standard air feed (will check the filter is present first)?
Robert
What I have noticed:
- There are some minor oil leaks, but the oil level on the dipstick hasn't moved
- There is also a coolant leak, with a small 2 inch puddle forming since my last drive
- She is grumpy when cold! Starts fine, idle hunts and car does not rev cleanly until warmed slightly (about two or three minutes)
I'm not too bothered by the oil leaks as they are minor, but the coolant leak is a bit more concerning. I've topped it up via the expansion tank and will check before and after every drive. I'll also get her up on the ramps and see if I can pin point the leak, but if anyone has any tips for a mechanical novice please let me know!
I think I have a serpentine engine, please someone correct me if I'm wrong:
She runs beautifully once warm, belts look tight, no knocks or anything of concern. However, there does seem to be an after market air filter (K&N by the looks of things). I'm not too keen on the idea of this, as the engine bay gets very hot so there may be some heatsoak? Does anyone else run one, or should I plug in the standard air feed (will check the filter is present first)?
Robert
Just spoke to Carl, it seems for a reasonable (but not small) amount he will upgrade the immobiliser / alarm and provide two keys. This is something I would like to do, just not yet! Anyone know who could carry out a minor, fiddly repair like this?
The good news is I managed to start the car so the fob can't be terribly damaged. Ideally I would like to repair it for now, then use Carl's services early next year.
The good news is I managed to start the car so the fob can't be terribly damaged. Ideally I would like to repair it for now, then use Carl's services early next year.
Thanks Tonys. I will learn what bits you are referring to and check them.
I managed to get under the tiv today, and other than the leaks I am happy - the outriggers and chassis look solid as do suspension components. First things first, I am a mechanical n00b so can you all review my safety steps? Car was on ramps (1.5 tonne capacity each), handbreak on, in gear, chocked both sides of the rear wheels. Anything else I should be doing?
So I think there are three leaks - tiny oil leaks which I'm not concerned about, small coolant leak (blue coolant) and then another large leak, dropping from the centre passenger side of the engine and is pink and quite viscus. Could this be power steering fluid or brake fluid?
The pink fluid seemed to be dropping from or near a U-bend:
The sump was quite wet, especially round the sump plug so I'll make sure it is tight. I suspect the sump gasket could need replacing.
This area was quite wet, can anyone ID the part please?
Finally I couldn't remove the K&N filter and plug in the standard air feed as there is no filter on the other end! I'm really glad I checked....
So, after the immobiliser is fixed one way or another, I'll get back under the car with some de-greaser to clean it all up and try and pin point the leaks.
Any input or advice much appreciated!
I managed to get under the tiv today, and other than the leaks I am happy - the outriggers and chassis look solid as do suspension components. First things first, I am a mechanical n00b so can you all review my safety steps? Car was on ramps (1.5 tonne capacity each), handbreak on, in gear, chocked both sides of the rear wheels. Anything else I should be doing?
So I think there are three leaks - tiny oil leaks which I'm not concerned about, small coolant leak (blue coolant) and then another large leak, dropping from the centre passenger side of the engine and is pink and quite viscus. Could this be power steering fluid or brake fluid?
The pink fluid seemed to be dropping from or near a U-bend:
The sump was quite wet, especially round the sump plug so I'll make sure it is tight. I suspect the sump gasket could need replacing.
This area was quite wet, can anyone ID the part please?
Finally I couldn't remove the K&N filter and plug in the standard air feed as there is no filter on the other end! I'm really glad I checked....
So, after the immobiliser is fixed one way or another, I'll get back under the car with some de-greaser to clean it all up and try and pin point the leaks.
Any input or advice much appreciated!
Thanks for the pointers all, good stuff. Chris, I got the ramps off ebay as they were low entry so I could get my lowered VX220 on them. The downside is they only raise the car a short amount. Enough to get under and have a nosey, but I wouldn't fancy doing any work!
Some good news on the key front - instead of paying £600+ for a new immobiliser / keys etc. the old one has been repaired and works! Also got an override key.
Shout out to Paul at Waldonway who picked up my broken fob up, repaired it for a tiny amount and dropped it off again! Great service and a nice chap.
Some good news on the key front - instead of paying £600+ for a new immobiliser / keys etc. the old one has been repaired and works! Also got an override key.
Shout out to Paul at Waldonway who picked up my broken fob up, repaired it for a tiny amount and dropped it off again! Great service and a nice chap.
Small update, the power steering fluid leak has slowed right down. This could be down to the fluid running out entirely or because I managed to tighten a few jubilee clips. Hopefully the latter, but I've ordered some power steering fluid to top it up and find out.
Managed to go for a drive Boxing day (roof down) then took SWMBO shopping today, and I loved every second. The noise! It howls on full throttle (boxing day) and yet quiet and comfortable when cruising (today, didn't want to annoy SWMBO who is still grumpy with me for buying it). One of my favourite sounds are the pop and bangs on the overrun, brilliant.
And the all important smiley!
Managed to go for a drive Boxing day (roof down) then took SWMBO shopping today, and I loved every second. The noise! It howls on full throttle (boxing day) and yet quiet and comfortable when cruising (today, didn't want to annoy SWMBO who is still grumpy with me for buying it
). One of my favourite sounds are the pop and bangs on the overrun, brilliant.And the all important smiley!
CHIMV8 said:
I only have one imobiliser fob,where did you get sorted with another,cheers
The one in the picture is my old one, repaired with a fresh casing.If you want to get another key, afaik you need to get news keys / immobiliser which I will do at some point. For around £600 Carl Baker will replace the immobiliser, provide two keys, an override key and even a remote boot popper. I've read he might be moving to France soon (can't remember where, sorry, so might have made that up!) so be quick.
Alternatively, give Paul Wood a call at Walldonway (01732 870386) he has a guy that will do it for around £400 iirc, without the boot popper.
All sorted! AA man gave it a jump start, alternator charging nicely and took her for a 45 minute blat. Still blown away by the speed of the thing, and I'm getting more comfortable with the handling (doesn't feel spiky or dangerous in the slightest!).
Going to look into the ACT induction kit, looks like good vfm.
Going to look into the ACT induction kit, looks like good vfm.
L40JRC said:
I notice you have the old style number plates on your Chim, any trouble with the boys in blue, i fancy having these on mine but didn't want the risk. Anybody else using these? Also, think they might be an MOT failure?
Nice motor.............
Not been pulled even when the BIB pulled up next to me in the petrol station, but I've been told they are illegal so will replace with the normal plates tomorrow. They look fantastic though! Nice motor.............
Had a great day out at a posh restaurant, took the tiv and it didn't look out of place amongst all the mega expensive barges. I love this car.
A relative has just bought a diesel XF-S, good Lord it is rapid... there was not much in it on the straights, but you can guess which sounded better
Help please chaps - the Chim has always been a bit grumpy on start up in the cold... hunting idle, spluttering for a minute or two until warmed up then fine. However, of late she really stutters below 2,000 rpm for a good while. After 30 minutes and really warm she is fine, but it seems to be getting a bit worse.
So I've gone through the forum, and I think I should:
- Clean stepper motor
- Replace distributor cap, ignition coil
- Get some magnecor leads and replace sparks
Two questions; am I in the right direction? Can a novice like myself fit the above, or is it for the more experienced mechanics?
On a different note, got her some new shoes today after the Toyos were past their best:
£380 all in including tracking check and adjustment - toe and camber were within tolerance, track rods required a little adjusting and she feels great. Steering is lighter, and she doesn't seem to crash over bumps so much now. Had a bit of a moment when giving it some beans, guess the tyres need scrubbing in a bit!
So I've gone through the forum, and I think I should:
- Clean stepper motor
- Replace distributor cap, ignition coil
- Get some magnecor leads and replace sparks
Two questions; am I in the right direction? Can a novice like myself fit the above, or is it for the more experienced mechanics?
On a different note, got her some new shoes today after the Toyos were past their best:
£380 all in including tracking check and adjustment - toe and camber were within tolerance, track rods required a little adjusting and she feels great. Steering is lighter, and she doesn't seem to crash over bumps so much now. Had a bit of a moment when giving it some beans, guess the tyres need scrubbing in a bit!
Thanks for the replies all. I've spoken to the mechanic who I bought the Chim from and he did the plugs a month before I got it, so I'll leave them for the time being and just do distributor cap, ignition coil and leads.
Cleaned the stepper motor and butterfly valve in the throttle opening. Stepper motor wasn't bad but the butterfly valve was pretty caked in soot.
As for plates, yes, I put the (boring) standard ones on and they look poop!
Took a wheel off and had a good look at the chassis - seems solid, though with surface rust. But I spotted a small hole that I don't think should be there. It had been painted over and now the paint flaked off to expose it
Meh, at some point I'll probably replace the outriggers - it should increase it's sale value so its money well spent imo.
Cleaned the stepper motor and butterfly valve in the throttle opening. Stepper motor wasn't bad but the butterfly valve was pretty caked in soot.
As for plates, yes, I put the (boring) standard ones on and they look poop!
Took a wheel off and had a good look at the chassis - seems solid, though with surface rust. But I spotted a small hole that I don't think should be there. It had been painted over and now the paint flaked off to expose it
Meh, at some point I'll probably replace the outriggers - it should increase it's sale value so its money well spent imo.Got a few bits done today; ordered some magnecor leads and spark plugs shrouds. Mine are rusted and I suspect are the cause of my stuttering problem. Ordered an ACT induction kit to replace the nasty heatsoaked K&N in there at the moment. Also removed the wheels, sealed them and cleaned all the dirt and stones that have collected round the corners of the outriggers. Pleased to say each corner is solid, other than some surface rust.
Also gave her a first clean! Bodywork is very, very good for a 15 year old car. A few pics to stop this being a boring update:
Also gave her a first clean! Bodywork is very, very good for a 15 year old car. A few pics to stop this being a boring update:
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