Does my cam look worn? Should I change it?

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Hi guys,

Could you have a look at my cam for me please? I noticed there was a bit of oil around the bottom of the engine, so thought I’d change the sump gasket and the valley gasket, one thing led to another and now I’m contemplating changing the cam as well, now that it’s all apart. I already have the water pump and power steering pump off, all the inlet manifold and valley gasket off, so I’m kind of halfway there already.

I’ve done cam belts before but never changed a cam, but it doesn’t look too difficult in the Chim. What do you think? Is it looking like it may need replacing? It’s on 60,000 miles now. The lobes don’t feel worn, but there is discolouration there. I already have the valley gasket and rocker gaskets, so I guess I just need to buy a cam and followers and the gasket for the front of the engine. May also need to check the rockers I suppose.

Having just spent nearly £1,000 on the car I'm reluctant to spend any more, but if I need to, I will!

Apologies for the crappy phone pics, I can get some better ones if needs be...








Thanks,

Dan

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Chilliman said:

Looks to me like you've got some uneven wear going on. I'm no expert but I'd get someone who is to have a good look at it... Have you had it on a dyno?

Previous owner had it on a dyno, I haven't.

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Emailed Rob. Thanks.

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ChimpOnGas said:

Think about it this way, if you had a car running a cam belt you'd be replacing that at 60,000 miles.

And you wouldn't think twice about doing it.

Even Porsche Boxter cam chains can snap at this mileage, so a new chain & tensioner is advised.

Knowing what we do about this engine & it's tendency to deliver relatively short cam life, new cam & followers/timing set at 60,000 miles just seems like just good servicing to me.

I'm sure there'll be a stream of people coming on now to say their cam has never been changed and is still going strong at 100,000 miles.

But pull a few of those old cams out & see what they really look like, I bet you'll find they'd be far from being in their first flush of life.

Yeah, I'm starting to think I should, even if it's just as a precaution. I'll try and measure the cam tonight to see how/if it's worn.

It looks like around £670 for the cam, followers, gasket, chain and pulley! ££££!

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Can anyone recommend someone to change the cam for me?

I’m based in New Milton, Hampshire. The car is in my garage where it can get worked on, or I can trailer it to have the work done. I’ve so far removed the inlet manifold, valley gasket, waterpump, and all the hoses, so basically the easy bits!

I’ve tried phazed, Sardonicus and db484bhpv8 but they’re all busy or too far away! I’ve also emailed Southways and am waiting for a price from them once Rich is back in the office. Anyone else I can try around the Hampshire area?

Thanks,

Dan

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TVR Beaver said:

If you've got it that far.. its easy.. DIY, then you can spend time on it and get it 100%

You reckon? It's just that I'm trying to do it on my own, with no help in a single garage. Plus I'd have no idea how to do the timing and I don't have the dials to get it timed right.

I still haven't managed to measure the lobes yet! Need to get hold of a micrometer.

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Sounds great, but it's over 400 miles round trip! Also, to put it back together again I'd need to reconnect up all the power steering and coolant hoses and refill the oil, meaning all new fluids, only to have it all dropped out again.

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TVR Beaver said:

if its still in you'll not get a micrometer around them.. you'll need a DTI to measure lift (that has more travel than the lobe )... I think screw fix sell them quite cheap.. also a base / holder of some kind

Edited by TVR Beaver on Monday 4th November 15:32

I could roughly measure the height of each lobe from the shaft using the end of the micrometer, then compare with the next lobe.

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phazed said:

You can borrow my car trailer.

Thanks for the offer, I do have a car trailer though

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TVR Beaver said:

zed4 said:

I could roughly measure the height of each lobe from the shaft using the end of the micrometer, then compare with the next lobe.

its a rough cast shaft.. you need to be more accurate than that.. I take it you're talking a depth micrometer?...
A DTI on the lobe or side of the lifter is your best bet.

This is why I'm thinking it's best to take it to a specialist!!

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jojackson4 said:

Derick was after some work may be worth giving him a prod you may end up with nos as well

He's busy.

I'm hoping the Southways price is reasonable as I’d prefer they did the job – (nudge nudge Rich if you’re reading this!) I’ve had a quote from another specialist which I’m happy with, but they’re a bit far from me. I’d rather not trailer it any further than an hour really.

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Twistygit said:

Sorry to bring up an old thread but did you get your cam changed zed? And if so how bad was it when it came out?
The reason I ask is I've just took my valley gasket off and the cam lobes look ok but there is some discolouration and I read on RPI eng. that this is the first indication of wear

Hi,

Yes I did change the cam. It wasn't really that worn to be honest, but it was halfway apart anyway and I managed to get a very good deal on a new V8D MC1 cam which I couldn't turn down. I then trailered the car to Southways, they fitted the new cam and timing kit and then put it all back together again. For the money, it was worth doing seeing as it was most way apart anyway.

I'm really pleased I did it, the MC1 cam is great, it drives really smoothly now and it makes very good power. I find it a lot easier to drive slowly around town now.

I did a few bits whilst it was apart, changed the valley gasket was it was leaking, changed the waterpump, upgraded the trumpets and induction hoses.

I didn't actually get to see my old cam, I seem to remember Southways saying it was a bit worn, but not too bad. However, I did have a broken rocker, so it was a good job I had it apart.

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EGB said:

http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...

Good advice on cam choice here. An indication of worn cam is signs of concave dishing on the under side of the hydraulic tappets.

A debate here on MC1, Stealth, TVR power 885 (Taraka Piper?) cams, for good drivability with least shunting at low RPM.

Stealth said to be a good option by some?

Wish we all knew the depth and quality of case hardening on cams. Perhaps too much to ask the cam makers.

Edited by EGB on Wednesday 24th September 12:40

Mine doesn't shunt at all now. In fact, I can do 25mph in 5th if I can't be bothered to change down!

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Rob at V8D said a Stealth wouldn't work with my standard 400 and advised I bought the MC1, which I did.