Brake servo removal

Brake servo removal

Author
Discussion

TJC46

Original Poster:

2,148 posts

206 months

Saturday 30th November 2013
quotequote all
As per the title. Anyone done it, and can pass on some info. etc.
Can the master cylinder be unbolted from the servo without undoing any of the brake lines?
I have to undo the pedal box.....does it have to come completely out?
Does it come out without disturbing the steering column?

Any help or pointers appreciated.

TJC46

Original Poster:

2,148 posts

206 months

Saturday 29th March 2014
quotequote all
Finally got around to doing this god awful job this week.

Lifting the body off the car is a piece of pcensoredss compared to removing the pedal box, servo and master cylinder.

For anyone unfortunate to have to do this i have a few helpful tips.

By doing the following i did not have to remove the steering column.


Remove the drivers seat, it gives you a bit more room to contort yourself in the footwell!

Remove the carpet and have plenty of rags ready.

Drain the master cylinders of both clutch and brake. A syringe is usefull for doing this.

Now undo the 3 brake unions and the clutch union,inside the drivers footwell, from the threaded block where they pass thru the inner wing.

You will have some brake fluid spillage here, but if you have emptied both master cylinders its not too bad.

I first removed the clutch master cylinder, and as the pipe union to the master was seized,it was easier to just cut it and have a new length of pipe made.

The bottom bolt on the master cylinder is a challenge but you can undo it from above via the inspection hatch, with the right size socket set extension.

Unscrew the pedals from the arms of both the clutch and brake pedal.

Disconnect the clutch and the brake rods, where they attach to the pedals.

The accelerator pedal and arm all complete, can be unbolted from the pedal box, without removing the cable, and can be moved to the side out of the way.

Remove the brake light switch and tuck the wiring up out of harms way.

I also removed the bonnet pull and cable, just to get them out of the way.

Undo the 4 nuts from the servo, and now finally undo the 6 nuts that hold the pedal box in place. There are 4 under the bonnet and 2 in the wheelarch.

The pedal box ONLY can now be twisted and turned around the steering column and removed.

Now you can try to remove the servo and brake master cylinder. It can be stuck by sealant where the brake master reservoir comes thru the wing.

You can remove this sealant beforehand, but mine came free, leaving the bead of sealant still nicely attached to the wing....lucky me!

I stripped and inspected the master cylinder, it was fine. The servo is a sealed item, so i simply changed this for another.

[My problem was servo related, and now everything is back together, the brakes have never been better.]

To refit everything, is a reversal of all of the steps above.

A few further tips when reinstalling everything.

You must position the brake master and servo roughly in position. I used an elasticated clip hooked inside the reservoir and attached to my garage roof to "suspend" them in an approximate position.

Now twist and turn the pedal box back into a position so you can reattach the servo/master cylinder back to it.

Now the fun starts.....you have to position the pedal box [and brake reservoir] in the exact position to bolt up the pedal box.[very awkward but can be done]

The clutch master cylinder can also be a bit tricky to put back, and i would position the top bolt on the master cylinder, before you reattach the pipe and union to it.

I reattached my new pipe to the master, and bent it at an angle so i could feed the pipe over the now reinstalled pedal box.

You can bend the pipe within the footwell easily enough,, to reattach it to the inner wing block.

After that reattach the 3 brake unions,but do this carefully, it is very easy to cross thread them.

Replace pedals, wiring etc and thats it.

Oh i forgot.............you have to now bleed the brakes and the clutch.

Hope it helps. Tom.