The Suitably Re-Engineered Chimaera Club
Discussion
A place for those with tastefully modified Chimaeras, nothing too brash, but not exactly standard, to compare and discuss their modifications for the greater good.
Mine is a 300 bhp 5 litre, nothing too flash, fully decatted, stealth cam, Gaz Gold Pros, a pleasant rumble from the standard exhaust. Do tell us about yours.......
Mine is a 300 bhp 5 litre, nothing too flash, fully decatted, stealth cam, Gaz Gold Pros, a pleasant rumble from the standard exhaust. Do tell us about yours.......
Re-engineering would be improvements to the engineering, within the framework of the existing design.
I have, for example, lightened my clutch pedal, and am fitting a larger capacity baffled sump to ensure proper oil pressure on spirited driving. I have improved the gas flow and increased the size of AFM and injectors to ensure better running at high revs.
"Suitable" in my view is staying with the basic package of the RV8 engine, normally aspirated, 14CUX ECU, etc, while making improvements or changes to the way those things work and enhancing the drivability of the car.
So not trying to keep the car the way it came out of the factory, but not making radical changes such as LS engines, or forced induction, for example.
I have, for example, lightened my clutch pedal, and am fitting a larger capacity baffled sump to ensure proper oil pressure on spirited driving. I have improved the gas flow and increased the size of AFM and injectors to ensure better running at high revs.
"Suitable" in my view is staying with the basic package of the RV8 engine, normally aspirated, 14CUX ECU, etc, while making improvements or changes to the way those things work and enhancing the drivability of the car.
So not trying to keep the car the way it came out of the factory, but not making radical changes such as LS engines, or forced induction, for example.
Start point: 1999 standard 400
Engine: replaced with a V8D 5 litre, cross bolted, internally balanced, stealth cam, lightened flywheel, Bosch red injectors.
Induction: fully ported stage 3 heads, ACT induction kit, K&N air filter, 20 AM AFM, 72mm plenum.
Suspension: Gaz Gold Pros, check everything, computersed 4 wheel alignment and corner weighting.
Exhaust: precats out, leaks sealed, Clive Y piece (main cat out), standard exhaust.
Safety: 330mm Bremsport brakes, Hawk pads (front). Standard brakes, Ferodo DS2500 pads (rear), Rollcentre Racing rollover bar, 4 point Willans harnesses
Current mods: remote clutch servo, baffled enlarged sump
What power does it make? 300 bhp, 330 torques
What do I do with it? Everything, including track days
What would I do differently? Not start from here. Knowing what i know now, I would have sat on my hands and waited until a similarly specced car came up for sale. It has cost me will over £10,000 to do all the above mods. It wouldn't have cost me over £20,000 to buy a similar car.
What would I say to others? Try to have a clear picture of what you want from your car before you start, and make a plan. Minor mods with small bhp gains need to be done for the sake of the mod, not for the bhp gain. The only bhp gains you will notice are big ones. Big gains only come from bigger engines, or forced induction. It's a money pit for the unwary.
Engine: replaced with a V8D 5 litre, cross bolted, internally balanced, stealth cam, lightened flywheel, Bosch red injectors.
Induction: fully ported stage 3 heads, ACT induction kit, K&N air filter, 20 AM AFM, 72mm plenum.
Suspension: Gaz Gold Pros, check everything, computersed 4 wheel alignment and corner weighting.
Exhaust: precats out, leaks sealed, Clive Y piece (main cat out), standard exhaust.
Safety: 330mm Bremsport brakes, Hawk pads (front). Standard brakes, Ferodo DS2500 pads (rear), Rollcentre Racing rollover bar, 4 point Willans harnesses
Current mods: remote clutch servo, baffled enlarged sump
What power does it make? 300 bhp, 330 torques
What do I do with it? Everything, including track days
What would I do differently? Not start from here. Knowing what i know now, I would have sat on my hands and waited until a similarly specced car came up for sale. It has cost me will over £10,000 to do all the above mods. It wouldn't have cost me over £20,000 to buy a similar car.
What would I say to others? Try to have a clear picture of what you want from your car before you start, and make a plan. Minor mods with small bhp gains need to be done for the sake of the mod, not for the bhp gain. The only bhp gains you will notice are big ones. Big gains only come from bigger engines, or forced induction. It's a money pit for the unwary.
Yes, seeing those dampers reminds me. The best £100 you will ever send on your Chimaera IMHO is getting the full four wheel alignment we up - toe, cast and camber - by someone with proper kit and knowledge of the settings and tweaks. Completely changes the car from horrible to delightful.
QBee said:
Yes, seeing those dampers reminds me. The best £100 you will ever send on your Chimaera IMHO is getting the full four wheel alignment set up - toe, cast and camber - by someone with proper kit and knowledge of the settings and tweaks. Completely changes the car from horrible to delightful.
l6rth said:
Thanks guys, done the suspension and had the chassis fully rebushed, maybe I should rolling road it before supercharging it to see if the motor is strong enough? Is it as simple as buying a supercharging kit and bolting it all on? I can see it being as simple as that I presume it will need mapping etc etc?
To check suitability you need compression and leak down tests.If you are good with spanners, then it may be a bolt on job.
Yes, you will need a remap, but go to an aftermarket ECU.
swanny71 said:
I respectfully submit my membership application to the SRECC
'98 Chim 500
TVR Power Taraka engine rebuild giving 321 bhp and 355 ftlb
Tuscan front brakes, DS2500 pads and braided lines F + R
Nitro Suspension + full geo
SP12 wheels wearing Conti Sport Contact 3's
Carl Baker alarm/boot opener/hot start fix
ACT manifolds, sport cats and cherry bomb exhaust (fitted since the visit to Surrey Rolling Road and feels even more perky as a result)
DIY new carpets & refurbed interior
It's stops/handles very well now and is more than fast enough so I have no intention of fitting a blower/turbo/nitrous/flux capacitor etc
And another welcome to the club. '98 Chim 500
TVR Power Taraka engine rebuild giving 321 bhp and 355 ftlb
Tuscan front brakes, DS2500 pads and braided lines F + R
Nitro Suspension + full geo
SP12 wheels wearing Conti Sport Contact 3's
Carl Baker alarm/boot opener/hot start fix
ACT manifolds, sport cats and cherry bomb exhaust (fitted since the visit to Surrey Rolling Road and feels even more perky as a result)
DIY new carpets & refurbed interior
It's stops/handles very well now and is more than fast enough so I have no intention of fitting a blower/turbo/nitrous/flux capacitor etc
ChilliWhizz said:
l6rth said:
Fitted the de catted y last week, nice a loud now. Any of you going to the duxford show on the 4th of May?
I probably will 
OleVix said:
Im joining the club with a rebuilt 4.6 tophats, big valve stage3, high compression engine. I'll try using a 500 chip to fuel it. Does the 500 and 400 share the same injectors? same 14cux on 400 and 500?
500 chip is different. Injectors are the same, but tend to max out at 290 bhp ish......but you could be ok at that. If it runs lean above 4500 rpm, bigger injectors and AFM cost a few hundred pounds.
If you change the injectors or AFM you will need to remap the ECU - several hundred quid, plus bringing the car to the UK. So try both chips first I suggest.
But given your location, if neither chip is satisfactory, I suggest you change to a mappable after market ECU if you have a local mapper.
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