A BIG THANKYOU
Discussion
To everyone who posts there trials and tribulations on here.
I would like to pay thanks for the the important information placed on PH.
I have just started enjoying my car for the 2nd year drove her to work and then
when i started her to go home, heard a awful metallic tapping noise. The oil pressure,rpms and temps were ok so decided to drive home 6 miles at under 2000rpm. Really fed up as its my birthday and seeing all my plans going west to have a fantastic weekend with my wife,cake and beers.
As a qualified engineer i made certain assumptions as to what had failed which was either closed hydraulic tappet/broken rocker arm.
Ive read posts pointing to exhaust gasket but dismissed it initially due to my 35 years of expert knowledge of all that is mechanical."Well you learn a new thing every day". I used the feather taped to a pencil tool and there it is blowing like a good one bulkhed end on the manifold.
You have saved me a awful lot time , money, pain and heartache, so once again a big thankyou.
I would like to give something back in return.
(Dont fit rubber sump gaskets which can be purchased from a well known e-site), the rubber has nowhere to compress too because the sump face is convex so it splits down the centreline from hole to hole pretty much all the way around.I used hylotite red which stays soft and made specially for steel pressed sump applications and unlike silicone sealer wont fall into the oil and block the strainer.Also used the clamp bar purchased from Rimmer bros which fits on at the rear of the sump (had to chamfer this part to fit against the face correctly)
I hope this helps anyone who is having trouble sealing a sump.
Anything i find will post in the future.
Best regards
I would like to pay thanks for the the important information placed on PH.
I have just started enjoying my car for the 2nd year drove her to work and then
when i started her to go home, heard a awful metallic tapping noise. The oil pressure,rpms and temps were ok so decided to drive home 6 miles at under 2000rpm. Really fed up as its my birthday and seeing all my plans going west to have a fantastic weekend with my wife,cake and beers.
As a qualified engineer i made certain assumptions as to what had failed which was either closed hydraulic tappet/broken rocker arm.
Ive read posts pointing to exhaust gasket but dismissed it initially due to my 35 years of expert knowledge of all that is mechanical."Well you learn a new thing every day". I used the feather taped to a pencil tool and there it is blowing like a good one bulkhed end on the manifold.
You have saved me a awful lot time , money, pain and heartache, so once again a big thankyou.
I would like to give something back in return.
(Dont fit rubber sump gaskets which can be purchased from a well known e-site), the rubber has nowhere to compress too because the sump face is convex so it splits down the centreline from hole to hole pretty much all the way around.I used hylotite red which stays soft and made specially for steel pressed sump applications and unlike silicone sealer wont fall into the oil and block the strainer.Also used the clamp bar purchased from Rimmer bros which fits on at the rear of the sump (had to chamfer this part to fit against the face correctly)
I hope this helps anyone who is having trouble sealing a sump.
Anything i find will post in the future.
Best regards
SILICONEKID346HP said:
Thanks for your advice ,how much of the hylotite red do you need a seal a sump ? It only comes in 50g tubes .cheers
1st things first , make sure the sump face and gasket face are clean and dry of any oil.Check the sump face hasnt distorted to much. You can use a length of ground flat stock to check this2 tubes will do the job. run a bead on the sump and lightly smear along the face. Also do the same on the block face making sure you smear a little extra over end joints, wait a few minutes for the solvent to evaporate as per instructions.
Carefully push the sump on, use a couple of studs so you dont slip the sump around on the other face.
Use hylotite on the threads as well. Torque the sump in a criss cross fashion same as if you were torqing a cylinder head 5lb/ft 1st, then 10lb/ft to finish. Make sure you have spring washers fitted and definateley use the clamp bar across the rear 2 bolts. This is where most leaks come from.
Hope this helps.
Hoofa said:
Well I bought the rubber gasket , is it the one for £28 quid ?
What are we saying it splits ? Anyone know the sump bolt threads so I can get some studs
I used last time the paper gasket, vw oil pan sealant, the spreader bar from rimmer bros, torqued up in cross cross fashion and it still pees oil out !
Not sure what to do next
.What are we saying it splits ? Anyone know the sump bolt threads so I can get some studs
I used last time the paper gasket, vw oil pan sealant, the spreader bar from rimmer bros, torqued up in cross cross fashion and it still pees oil out !
Not sure what to do next
As i mentioned it splits all the way around along the centreline hole to hole.
The bolts are 5/16 UNC. (not metric)
The rubber gasket i bought cost me £39.99 and was just made of soft rubber (not composite)
You need to check if the sump face is relatively flat 1st as over tightening a sump gasket can cause the face to warp.Hylotite takes up more uneveness than Hylomar and stays tacky. Dont use hylotite with a cork gasket as the solvent dries out the cork.
Trust this helps you.
Im finished ready for the weekend thanks to all i mentioned origonally.
I was in a dilema after taking the manifold off to see the aluminium heat shield peeling off.
So i bought some new heatshield from Thermal velocity, but realised to do the job properly the engine would need to come out and the new material will only burn off again over time.
So i decided to fix this permanently by fitting 0.5mm corrugated solid aluminium heat shield over the existing part where the heat transfer is high. I would like to put it back to standard at some point though.
I made a cardboard template to make the new cover and overlaying 2" masking tape made a copy of the rivet positions (only pressing down the masking tape on the rivets so it would peel of easily), then stuck it to the new piece and drilled the holes. Removed the old rivets and rerivetted the new piece on. silicone sealed the edges. fitted the manifold with arp bolts and nordlock washers from ACT. (dont use the flat washers as the nordlocks wont work).The car now runs great again (no mechanical noises).
Ill do the other side next time but i need to get on the road (its an illness that im happy to have) [url]
Hope this helps anyone who needs a easy fix to remedy without engine out.
I was in a dilema after taking the manifold off to see the aluminium heat shield peeling off.
So i bought some new heatshield from Thermal velocity, but realised to do the job properly the engine would need to come out and the new material will only burn off again over time.
So i decided to fix this permanently by fitting 0.5mm corrugated solid aluminium heat shield over the existing part where the heat transfer is high. I would like to put it back to standard at some point though.
I made a cardboard template to make the new cover and overlaying 2" masking tape made a copy of the rivet positions (only pressing down the masking tape on the rivets so it would peel of easily), then stuck it to the new piece and drilled the holes. Removed the old rivets and rerivetted the new piece on. silicone sealed the edges. fitted the manifold with arp bolts and nordlock washers from ACT. (dont use the flat washers as the nordlocks wont work).The car now runs great again (no mechanical noises).
Ill do the other side next time but i need to get on the road (its an illness that im happy to have) [url]
Hope this helps anyone who needs a easy fix to remedy without engine out.
Edited by HENRYKS CHIM on Thursday 17th April 23:54
Edited by HENRYKS CHIM on Thursday 17th April 23:56
Edited by HENRYKS CHIM on Thursday 17th April 23:59
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