Advice on tiny radiator leak please - TVR Chimaera

[zed4]

Hi,

I noticed my radiator has developed a tiny leak at the top, when it's warm is slowly weeps/bubbles out. It's very small and I'm not losing a noticeable amount of fluid, but it's not going to get any better in the summer!





So what should I do? Repair it myself with some kind of fluid or other repair. I guess this will only be temporary. Send it away to be repaired at a radiator specialist? What's that likely to cost? Or I can fit a new alloy rad, will cost me about £380 plus my time to fit it. TVR radiators are more expensive again, around £500.

What would you do, bearing in mind the summer is on its way!

Dan

[zed4]

I'm definitely not keen on pouring strange chemicals and fluids into the coolant! The other option is a bit of chemical metal type stuff, but again, it feels like a bit of a bodge!

[zed4]

Some good advice here, thank you! I will find a local radiator place and seek advice.

[zed4]

I've been offered a new alloy rad for £300 inc delivery. I am quite tempted to get it at that money!

[zed4]

TVR Beaver said:

How would you mend it if that started to leak

No idea! The company have been recommended by a few people on here so I assume they're a good quality. Are you saying I would be better off sticking with my original rad?

[zed4]

phazed said:

zed4 said:

I've been offered a new alloy rad for £300 inc delivery. I am quite tempted to get it at that money!

Is that Aarrun Radiators?

if so, I am very pleased with mine.

Yes, it is. Does seem very good value.

[zed4]

quattrophenia said:

It's personal choice, but I would not use radweld or similar in my engine. I know the prices of ali rads are coming down all the time but unless you are racing it a re-core will keep the care perfectly cool even on hot days. I took mine out myself and had it re-cored at a fairly local rad specialist. Basic Land rover triple core, all tested, guaranteed and painted for £160. Job done and back on the road within a week.
If you do choose this route and pull the rad yourself, I would strongly recommend you mark the distance between the 2 locating holes in the chassis on to a piece of string and give it to the fabricators. Ensure when the rad is welded back together the fabricators weld it so that the pins on the radiator casing are exactly that far apart. Otherwise you will not be able to get the rad back in correctly. If the rad is welded even 5mm wider the pins will not sit back in to the holes and you may even struggle to get the rad back in at all. (you'll know what I mean with the rad removed).

Thanks for the info, very helpful. Mine doesn't need recoring though, as the leak it on the end of the casing.