Chassis & wishbone coating final solution

[caduceus]

Chassis and other coated bits are nearly ready to go to the blasters, so I'm thinking still about what is thee best route to go in terms of coating and longevity.

Have the TVR fraternity come to a conclusion as to what the best treatment is for our chassis and wishbones, etc?

Cad

[caduceus]

J400GED said:

Cokes said:

What he ^^^ said, I'm next so I wait with great anticipation on what I hope is the best solution.

Race you.
Mind you you've got a mate helping you and I've got a teenage daughter helping me!

I've had neither so far Dropped the diff on my chest today. A LOT heavier than I was expecting! Seems heavier than the gearbox FFS.

Back on topic, I do like the sound of the multiple coats. Definitely don't want to touch powder coating.

One question. Apart from the media blasting and welding, how many of the steps can be carried out by oneself at home?

Thanks for the replies so far. I was expecting a long and in depth discussion about which method/s is/are best, and why. But it seems, for longevity, we have already found a tried and tested process fro the time being.
I was going to do research on marine applications and some motorsport firms (Paris Dakar) on their processes. May still do, but am liking the sound of the epoxy mastic. I assume its no where near as brittle as powder coat?

[caduceus]

ChimpOnGas said:

1. Media blast

2. Repair with new steel

3. Media blast again to key new steel

4. Immediately hot zinc spray

5. Pacify zinc with mordant solution (T-Wash or similar)

6. Acid etch prime

7. Two coats red oxide colour epoxy mastic

8. Final top coat in silver/grey epoxy mastic

A few questions COG.

-I assume the hot zinc spray has to be done by a company?
-When you used the T-Wash, did you apply, leave and wash off, TWICE?
-Can you recommend an acid etch primer pls? Spray or brush on?
-With regards to the epoxy red oxide (PRIMER?) and top coats; did you brush the epoxy on, or spray it on (aerosol?)?
-Did you only put on one top coat?

Many thanks
Cad

[caduceus]

Thanks for the detailed reply COG.

By the sound of things, once the chassis is stripped, it's out of my hands. Sounds like all of the processes are to be outsourced.
Do you have any ballpark figures of what the costs are likely to be all in? Going to be the best part of £1k isn't it?

[caduceus]

ackbullchang said:

Guys, can someone confirm if the 2k epoxy is the same as the 2k paint that is used for body work? If so, it seems possibly pretty dangerous for a home mechanic and should be left to the professionals.

http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid...

No. It's not the same.

[caduceus]

Could someone 'in the know' advise me on which one of these will suffice for Chim chassis welding please?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sealey-130Amp-Mig-Welder...

https://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details...

The Clarke is more expensive so I'd rather the Sealey. But will it be up to the job?

Thanks
Cad

[caduceus]

portzi said:

Have you done much MIG welding?

Never

But if I never buy one and practice, I'll never learn.
If the Clarke one welds up to 5mm, wouldn't that suffice?

[caduceus]

Chuffmeister said:

Don't expect to be tigging like Clive F, but WTF, its welding, not rocket science...

This is my school of thought too.
Of course, I will be watching as many tutorials on youtube,etc as possible, before pulling the trigger.

[caduceus]

ClassiChimi said:

Sorry Cad,

Don't be daft
I didn't take it as sarcastic Alun. It did dent my confidence a little for about 5 minutes

ClassiChimi said:

I think the trick is to get a top class welding machine and get used to using it

After some more research today, I'm thinking the same thing. Over £300 mark is more realistic: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/151070819775?_trksid=p20...

Also a tube notcher from Frosts is going to be a good idea, as recommended by someone on PH.

[caduceus]

nuttyfruitbat said:

This worked for tube joints,if link doesn't work just google metal geek templatates.

Thanks bat. Or maybe one of these: http://www.frost.co.uk/frost-pipe-tubing-notcher.h... Seen a demo of it on youtube and seems to work a treat.

[caduceus]

nuttyfruitbat said:

Hi cad tube notcher would be great but you'll probably never use it again,put the £75 towards next welder up and use the metal geeks templates they are spot on and free.

So pretty much buy one of these http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/161441246029?_trksid=p20...

And use that template software...

What would you use to cut it though? Not an angle grinder surely? Also, I don't have a drill press if its just an arbor on a drill..
Don't mean to sound negative, but I just want a simple solution, as the welding is going to be enough of a challenge

Edited by caduceus on Saturday 28th February 09:22

[caduceus]

Thanks bat. Those grinder discs are great value