Fuel pump won't prime
Discussion
Hi All,
I'm new to the Forums but have had my Chimp for 6 years, and apart from a new starter and water pump it has given me great pleasure. I also suffered from the hot start issue but I found that it was only an issue when the fans were running so I fitted a delay switch.....all is now ok. Getting on to the current issue, everything was fine until a couple of weeks ago. I tried to start her and nothing, no fuel pump, no starter. This has happened before and 2 new relays did the trick. Not this time. So, I have 2 new relays and the pump is ok if I put 12v to it. I get 12v to the main ECU on pin 85 but the relay doesn't switch. Pin 86 doesn't ground, should it ? Or is this where the immobiliser kicks in ?? It's the same for the fuel pump relay with pin 86 not grounding. I'm not sure if this is a grounding issue. I've also tried trace pin 86 back to the ECU plug but there is no connection, this once again suggests to me that this is where the immobiliser controls the grounding. Please help !!
I'm new to the Forums but have had my Chimp for 6 years, and apart from a new starter and water pump it has given me great pleasure. I also suffered from the hot start issue but I found that it was only an issue when the fans were running so I fitted a delay switch.....all is now ok. Getting on to the current issue, everything was fine until a couple of weeks ago. I tried to start her and nothing, no fuel pump, no starter. This has happened before and 2 new relays did the trick. Not this time. So, I have 2 new relays and the pump is ok if I put 12v to it. I get 12v to the main ECU on pin 85 but the relay doesn't switch. Pin 86 doesn't ground, should it ? Or is this where the immobiliser kicks in ?? It's the same for the fuel pump relay with pin 86 not grounding. I'm not sure if this is a grounding issue. I've also tried trace pin 86 back to the ECU plug but there is no connection, this once again suggests to me that this is where the immobiliser controls the grounding. Please help !!
Thanks Swallet,
I believe that it's either the ECU or the immobiliser. It could still be an earthing problem though.
Would you be able to help me bypass the immobiliser so I can either confirm it is this or not ??
I appreciate the need for confidentiality, how could I contact you directly.
I'm not bad with a multi-meter but no expert and wiring or cutting in should be no problem.
Thanks
I believe that it's either the ECU or the immobiliser. It could still be an earthing problem though.
Would you be able to help me bypass the immobiliser so I can either confirm it is this or not ??
I appreciate the need for confidentiality, how could I contact you directly.
I'm not bad with a multi-meter but no expert and wiring or cutting in should be no problem.
Thanks
Thanks guys, but still no joy.
I've tried resetting the immobiliser which I think I do as I get all the right signals.
Also I can feel / hear a click coming from the M99 under the dash ( which is now in the kitchen !!!)
I am now thinking that it could be the ECU.
Any ideas on how I can check the outputs which would not be affected by the immobiliser if it is faulty !!!
Thanks All
I've tried resetting the immobiliser which I think I do as I get all the right signals.
Also I can feel / hear a click coming from the M99 under the dash ( which is now in the kitchen !!!)
I am now thinking that it could be the ECU.
Any ideas on how I can check the outputs which would not be affected by the immobiliser if it is faulty !!!
Thanks All
Thanks DaveP.
I have this diagram from the bible but the connections I wanted to check we're either dashed or dotted. What does that mean ??
I have a question: on the relay for the main ECU which is labelled as 22, I have 12v at pin 15, and at pin 86 at the relay, so no problem there but this is where I get a little confused. On pin 85 on the relay, or pin 12 on the ECU, I don't have a ground, so obviously the relay doesn't switch. My question is this, is it the immobiliser, is it the ECU, or is it a simple grounding issue. If it is a grounding issue, where does the ECU and immobiliser ground.
Thanks
I have this diagram from the bible but the connections I wanted to check we're either dashed or dotted. What does that mean ??
I have a question: on the relay for the main ECU which is labelled as 22, I have 12v at pin 15, and at pin 86 at the relay, so no problem there but this is where I get a little confused. On pin 85 on the relay, or pin 12 on the ECU, I don't have a ground, so obviously the relay doesn't switch. My question is this, is it the immobiliser, is it the ECU, or is it a simple grounding issue. If it is a grounding issue, where does the ECU and immobiliser ground.
Thanks
Thanks DaveP.
I have this diagram from the bible but the connections I wanted to check we're either dashed or dotted. What does that mean ??
I have a question: on the relay for the main ECU which is labelled as 22, I have 12v at pin 15, and at pin 86 at the relay, so no problem there but this is where I get a little confused. On pin 85 on the relay, or pin 12 on the ECU, I don't have a ground, so obviously the relay doesn't switch. My question is this, is it the immobiliser, is it the ECU, or is it a simple grounding issue. If it is a grounding issue, where does the ECU and immobiliser ground.
Thanks
I have this diagram from the bible but the connections I wanted to check we're either dashed or dotted. What does that mean ??
I have a question: on the relay for the main ECU which is labelled as 22, I have 12v at pin 15, and at pin 86 at the relay, so no problem there but this is where I get a little confused. On pin 85 on the relay, or pin 12 on the ECU, I don't have a ground, so obviously the relay doesn't switch. My question is this, is it the immobiliser, is it the ECU, or is it a simple grounding issue. If it is a grounding issue, where does the ECU and immobiliser ground.
Thanks
Thanks DaveP. I have earth at 14 & 27 but not where the relay should ground. If the ECU is responsible for grounding modules 21 & 22 to make the relays switch this could be the problem.
I have a bit more testing to do now but it increasingly pointing to the ECU.
QBee, I'm in Leicester but travel extensively for work mostly north from there. I have a 450 chim 1998.
Phased, it's a term of endearment, 6 years driving with a smile on my face as big as a chimp at a tea party !!! 😀
I have a bit more testing to do now but it increasingly pointing to the ECU.
QBee, I'm in Leicester but travel extensively for work mostly north from there. I have a 450 chim 1998.
Phased, it's a term of endearment, 6 years driving with a smile on my face as big as a chimp at a tea party !!! 😀
QBee said:
I have opened my spare ECU and it has a 4.0 chip in it. If that suits, then you are welcome to borrow it to try, and we can I am sure come to an inexpensive deal if you find it works and want to keep it.
I am just outside Newark on Trent if you want to collect, or I could post it to you.
Firstly, sorry for the delay, I was called out on short notice for a few days.I am just outside Newark on Trent if you want to collect, or I could post it to you.
DaveP, I will try all your suggestions today but I think that in a roundabout way I've already done this.
Qbee, I would live to borrow your ECU if it's still abailable. I am in Sheffield for 2 days next week and Nottingham for 1. Please let me know what say and time would be suitable for you.
Many thanks guys
QBee said:
Yes, by all means. There's usually someone at home, and I am working from home Monday, Tuesday and Friday. Or I can post it to you. Your call, I am one mile off the A1/A46 to the east of Newark.
Alun, I had the entire alarm immobilser changed in Feb 2013 by Carl Baker. Cost £550, took him an entire 10 hour day. He is based in South West France, so you either go and stay in his gite, or book him on one of his visits to the UK. He works out of TaylorTVR in Aylesford, Kent. He fits a newer Meta system that he helped design. No more hot start problems, 60 seconds to get 't key in't ignition, and a remote boot button on the key as well. (please excuse northern speak......moved to Newark in 2013 and am trying to fit in)
Hi Qbee, that's brilliant. I'll call in on Monday if that's OK. It will be mid afternoon. How do I contact you from PH to get your address or email etc ?? Sorry I've not been on here before !!Alun, I had the entire alarm immobilser changed in Feb 2013 by Carl Baker. Cost £550, took him an entire 10 hour day. He is based in South West France, so you either go and stay in his gite, or book him on one of his visits to the UK. He works out of TaylorTVR in Aylesford, Kent. He fits a newer Meta system that he helped design. No more hot start problems, 60 seconds to get 't key in't ignition, and a remote boot button on the key as well. (please excuse northern speak......moved to Newark in 2013 and am trying to fit in)
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