Radiators...talk to me.

[igiveup]

I have a leak on my Alloy rad. Noticed it last Thursday when just moving the car around the drive, was fine the day before.

So as I don't have a pressure tester, I'm thinking I will need to remove it and have a good look, as I can't see or feel anything obvious. Its seems to be from the Bottom hose area, but hose connection is dry to the touch.

Anyway, I have not removed a Radiator since I had a 1985 B reg Astra, around 1993. So i'm after advice/refresh on what steps i need to take to do this.

My Chim is a 1998 400 if it helps at all, but I believe the same rad is used in all models of Chims as well as the Cerbera?

Can someone with knowledge on these things give me a step by step guide on Removal through to putting in a fixed/new rad?

Biggest issue i'm concerned about is what to do with the used coolant. I'll check to see if my local refuse site take it or not. Otherwise I'll ask my local mechanic who looks after our dailies.

I'm no mechanic, but simple things like this are doable. If I can do Disc's and Pads/Fuel lines/Coil/HT leads etc this should be easy enough. But I really want to do this myself, its part of the reason we have these cars isn't it?

Thanks for any help. What I would also like to do when doing this is is put a little Google site together and document all the little things that none mechanics can do at home. I'll put a Wiki page with links to the relevant page. I was hoping the Chimaera pages site would have stuff like that, but seems not, there are a few items though.

Anyway, going off topic, thanks for any help.

[igiveup]

fausTVR said:

I was convinced I had a leaking rad, but I found it was the small pipe running to the overflow tank (offside wing) pissing gently on the rad when hot.

That's interesting, there is pipe running under the rad, is that the pipe your talking about? or are you talking about the pipe to the Expansion Tank?

ATG said:

Has been years since I hooked my rad out, but it was very easy. Hose clips and a few bolts. I drove to a rad repair place, hooked rad out in their car park, they found leak and soldered it, I shoved rad back in, filled up with coolant and drove off. Think they charged me about a tenner. New coolant cost more than the repair.

You make it sound so easy lol. But like you say, its just a couple of bolts an straps. Its just the mess of the coolant, then refilling properly! guessing it will not drain the whole 12 litres in the process.

[igiveup]

Actually i have just found an awesome site here https://chimrebuild.wordpress.com/radiatorfront-ch...

This has a serious amount of work put into, all credit to the owner of the site, I think this has just saved me. Right job for me this week or weekend!!

[igiveup]

Nosh said:

A tip - when you remove the rad, take the opportunity to check / clean the earthing point under the rad - a bugger to get to when the rad is in place....

Nosh

Thanks Nosh will do. That is in the above link as well so will def check it out.

[igiveup]

J400GED said:

igiveup check this first before ripping your rad out - you'll only be upset when it's still leaks afterwards.

Thanks all, I've still not had the time to have a look yet, but plenty of food for thought so far.

I shall be taking it to AARON Radiators if it needs fixing. Also I have also had advice to ensure when refitting it to ensure it has a certain amount of movement/float so it does not twist as much with the flex of the body and chassis.

[igiveup]

OK, i've booked it into my mechanics for a pressure test. None TVR Specialist but its just a pressure test.

Does anyone know what PSI / Bar should be pumped up to? I can't see anything on the Expansion tank blue cap.

[igiveup]

[igiveup]

Mr Haribo said:

I checked my rad last week and tested to 1.5 bar as advised by a rad company

Was that just the rad or the whole system?

[igiveup]

So about 22psi then

[igiveup]

Well I have got as far as trying to remove the bottom hose.

It will not budge, I've got a small bladed screwdriver between pipe and rubber tubing. But I can't get all the way round. Plus its bloody hot in the sun lol.

I've put it back, but at least I know its not the pipe under the expansion tank. Deff somewhere on the rad, doesn't seen to be the cores either.

I'll see what the pressure test throws up.

I take it do this via the expansion tank as per any car? Up to 22 psi.

Also I can not under swirl pot but to check level. Any tips, so far I've tried a bolster with grips, all it seems to do is break up the brass!!

Edited by igiveup on Sunday 2nd August 13:06

[igiveup]

Thanks all, going to be dropping car off tomorrow for a full system pressure test anyway now.

But tonight I will be doing my best to get that Swirl Pot cap off or I'm handing in my Man Badge.

Was also thinking of replacing it with one of these...

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5pcs-1-8-034-1-4-034-3-8...

Good idea? Anyone got a better solution or a link to a better one. I think that is the correct size 1/2", might even pop to Wickes and have a look.

[igiveup]

ChimpOnGas said:

The best thing for loosening the original slotted swirl pot cap is a short crowbar.

Sounds brutal, actually isn't.

A short crowbar (jemmy bar) blade end fits the slot a treat and gives huge leverage and control without slipping, crack the swirl pot cap off with the bar and then remove easily with your fingers.

Just remember if the engine is up to temperature make sure you put a heavy rag over the cap as you wind it out or you'll be sure to scold your hand.

Trust me a crowbar is the perfect tool for the job and most of us have one in the shed, if not borrow one from a mate

I have a crowbar, should have used it yesterday really! I'll give it a go tonight when I get home -ta!

[igiveup]

Oh well crow bar didn't work, kept slipping. Two screw drivers wedge in together also has failed to work.

[igiveup]

s p a c e m a n said:

These are what I was thinking of earlier, they're on ebay too but more expensive..

http://www.pistonheads.com/classifieds/parts-and-p...

Thanks

[igiveup]

J400GED said:

igiveup said:

....Also I can not under swirl pot but to check level. Any tips, so far I've tried a bolster with grips, all it seems to do is break up the brass!!

Edited by igiveup on Sunday 2nd August 13:06

Might be a daft question and no offence meant by asking it but you are trying to turn it the correct way aren't you? (Anti-clockwise when viewed from the top).

Like I said, no offence meant but by the sounds of the amount of force you appear to be applying I had to ask.

No offence taken. But yes, i'm going the correct way.

This is the mess the brass cap is in https://goo.gl/photos/tReytj3BRnUCM94q9 which is making it harder than it should, as everything just slips of the ends once pressure is applied.

It was like that when i got the car, the fresh stuff is just what happens adding a small amount of force, it seems to be very brittle now.

[igiveup]

OK, finally got the rad out and the swirl pot cap. Have a plastic Land Rover one in now, cap that is.

[igiveup]

In the end, heat and grips.

Going to drop it off at Aaron Radiators today to get them to have a look and see if they can fix it.

Edited by igiveup on Wednesday 5th August 05:47

[igiveup]

Right update

Swirl pot cap has been replaced with a Plastic Land Rover one for now, i'l see how that holds. If not I'll get the one in the link above.

Radiator has been tested at Aaron Radiators, just now. Its a right off, the tube is cracked that supplies the Cores!!

So hes doing me a new rad, for £300 total, plus approx another £100 to un-weld the old cowling for the fans and put on new rad. So total £400. Still at least I can save labour and fit myself.

It doesn't rain for me it always poor's, hence my username!!

[igiveup]

Bassfiend229hp said:

igiveup said:

Right update

Swirl pot cap has been replaced with a Plastic Land Rover one for now, i'l see how that holds. If not I'll get the one in the link above.

Radiator has been tested at Aaron Radiators, just now. Its a right off, the tube is cracked that supplies the Cores!!

So hes doing me a new rad, for £300 total, plus approx another £100 to un-weld the old cowling for the fans and put on new rad. So total £400. Still at least I can save labour and fit myself.

It doesn't rain for me it always poor's, hence my username!!

Sorry mate but I think I can still beat you (and most owners) on stuff that has broken / been replaced / fixed / repaired (excluding those who are doing nutty stuff with theirs such as Derek who seems to be working his way through all the possible creative ways to melt engines) ... when you get to the point where you think 'Oh ... only £600 ... that's not bad at all' then you know you've caught the TVR love bug.

The rad is annoying but not terminal ... when she's back and running fine you'll forgive and forget.

Phil

I know your right, its just that the Rad was not really in the scope of things to get fixed. I still need to do the N/S Exhaust manifold, either gasket or 4 into 1 blowing, but at least i can still drive it like that.

Just wasn't something I was expecting to do so soon.

Meeh! its only money

[igiveup]

Sardonicus said:

igiveup said:

Right update

Swirl pot cap has been replaced with a Plastic Land Rover one for now, i'l see how that holds. If not I'll get the one in the link above.

Radiator has been tested at Aaron Radiators, just now. Its a right off, the tube is cracked that supplies the Cores!!

So hes doing me a new rad, for £300 total, plus approx another £100 to un-weld the old cowling for the fans and put on new rad. So total £400. Still at least I can save labour and fit myself.

It doesn't rain for me it always poor's, hence my username!!

Brighton radiators are another good call done a Griff one for me a while ago with the bigger core

Thanks, I'll stick with Aarron, known them for years as I grow up in the area and they fixed my First cars radiator for me for about £15 (The Astra in my OP)

Although I no longer live in the area, I still work only 8 mins drive away from them, so simple for me to get too.