Tremec TR-6060 Gearbox

[ChimpOnGas]

Right Chaps,

It's no secret I have lot of time for the boys at Lloyds, I value their opinion as they drive a lot of TVRs. What they say about 'Ol Gasbag' is the Helix clutch really spoils the wonderfully refined dual fuel machine we've created and I'm inclined to agree.

I'll also add that 'Ol Gasbag's' gear change isn't the best either which seems to get worse after you've driven the car for three hours or so. I put this down to some heat soak expansion and galling of that rather amateurish linkage TVR imposed on Chims & Griffs before they moved onto the far better S10 tail housing as used on the Speed Six T cars.

Yesterday I completed a 350 mile round trip and one super long and very boring meeting, on the way home I got stuck on the M6 in a nasty stop start traffic snarl up that ultimately left me feeling a bit frazzled. 'Ol Gasbag' was running so well, the new closed loop throttle control was a revelation of refinement in the traffic jam hell, but that Heix clutch just seemed to get heavier and heavier and the engagement of gears more sticky and resistant than ever

It had been long day and I guess I was getting tired, my left leg was certainly feeling the strain, so it got me thinking about fitting a lighter AP clutch and the S10 T5 tail housing again.

But then it struck me

Why don't I use this opportunity to not only lighten the clutch and improve the gear shift, but to add a sixth gear too?

Then it dawned on me I could sell my very healthy and well looked after T5 gearbox with TVR bellhousing to offset some of the cost

With a number of clear benefits within one modification and a way to make it cheaper too the idea started looke like absolute genius

So I've decided to be sensible (if you can ever describe modifying TVRs as sensible) I need to put my turbo dreams on the back burner for 12 months and use the funds to fit a Tremec TR-6060 Gearbox.

I was discussing the idea down in Warminster a while back with my friends at Lloyd Specialist Developments and they said they'd love to do the swap on 'Ol Gasbag', perhaps they can iron out the development on my car and offer a "drive in drive out" upgrade to others in the TVR community that want a six speed gearbox in their Chimaera or Griffith?

Lloyd Specialist Developments are very familiar with the Tremec TR-6060 as they put one in a Mk2 Jag mounted on the back of the modern Supercharged Jag V8 they'd dropped in it.

Some time ago I sat in that lovely Jag and went through the box, it was soooo nice. Clack, clack as you swapped from cog to cog the shift light yet offered super positive engagement of each gear, it really was lovely and direct and ultimately such a joy to use it made me grin like a Cheshire cat.

I'm keen to move on from TVRs Heath Robinson gear linkage and I really really need a lighter clutch too, add in some more refined and economical cruising and any thought of a turbo gets put on hold in preference of something that will ultimately make the biggest improvement to the way my car drives.

phazed said:

A 6 speed box should be my next option as well.

I have so much torque it'll pull an 8 speed box……...

Exactly Peter.

If I feel 'Ol Gasbag' could pull that sixth gear with it's 250hp & 260 torques I can only think it would be absolutely essential in your beast.

But for me there are four clear benefits to doing this mod and they all stack up to make this the best upgrade by far.

1. A far superior gear change

2. The perfect opportunity to ditch my heavy Helix clutch and fit something lighter with a better bite point and more progressive take up

3. A small economy improvement when cruising in sixth

4. A more refined car when cruising on the motorway without sacrificing acceleration in the lower five ratios

That's a no-brainer as they say

[ChimpOnGas]

gacksen said:

get the turbos and don´t waste your time for a gearbox you dont need

Thanks for your comments and I do take your points, the bottom line is what I definitely need is:

1. A lighter clutch

2. A better shifting box

Now I guess I can achieve all that by fitting an AP clutch and an S10 tail housing and it'll be a lot cheaper than fitting big old 6060 box, I could even add that taller 5th ratio to my T5 too.

But then when you look at the project and factor in the resale price of my T5 & TVR bellhousing Im very tempted just to bite the bullet and get the extra cog the 6060 offers.

I haven't fully studied the ratios on offer yet but I believe there are essentially two options, and I need the higher ration one?

Right now with no forced induction and over 65mph in 5th 'Ol Gasbag' still picks up her petticoats and surges forward in a rather rewarding way, I really wouldn't want to lose that by fitting a taller 5th. To be truthful what I feel I really want is the same box with the same nicely spaced five ratios, but with the option of sixth gear for those moments where a super refined 80/85mph cruising gate would be lovely.

I appreciate the economy benefits will be small, but it would still be nice to squeeze and extra mpg or two out of 'Ol Gasbag' when I'm touring France ect. After all we've pretty much reached the end of our LPG system developments now so the only way to better what we've already achieved with fuel economy is to lower the RPMs on the motorway.

All this means the Tremec TR-6060 is the only viable option that firmly ticks all my boxes (no punn intended)

[ChimpOnGas]

eff eff said:

I changed from a T5 to a TKO 600 5 speed when the LS3 was fitted, we never could get the linkage to work, the shift was clunky and stiff and the long 5th was too long. Ian at Sportmotive persuaded me to go for a TR 6060 and an LS7 clutch, what a difference Ian described it as "a gear change like a rifle bolt" and it is just that so I reckon go for the TR 6060

I'm sure the TKO 600 could be made to work, after all I believe that's whats in Mac's lovely turbo Chimaera and to me it felt very nice indeed when I tried the clutch and went through a gear or two on Saturday.

I'm also sure we could solve all my key frustrations with my current setup for reasonable cost by fitting an AP clutch and adding the S10 tail housing to my T5. I already knew the answers but it's why I started the following post...

http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=149...

The thing is I wouldn't want to pull the trigger on improving my T5 shift and lightening my clutch only to find six months down the road I wish I'd just gone the whole hog and fitted the 6060 with it's "nice to have" sixth gear.

Regret can be frustrating, I sure as hell regret fitting that heavy old Helix, I have become used to it but after doing some clutch weight testing at the Neil Garner day courtesy of the super friendly big horsepower crowd it was immediately obvious my Helix is dreadful by comparison.

I need to add up the costs of sorting my existing but disappointing T5 shift and heavy clutch vs going the extra mile and fitting the 6060. I'm sure even after selling my T5 and TVR bellhousing it'll still work out quite a bit more expensive to go the 6060 rout, but at least if I do choose the six speed box option I'll never have that feeling of regret I'll likely suffer if I stay with five cogs.

If I'm honest with myself everything I've ever tried to do with the car so far has been about making it nicer to drive, more refined, more practical and way more economical. I've taken this sensible approach to modifying my TVR because I love driving it, the way I see it anything that means I get to drive it more is always going to be top of the list and will always take preference to those very tempting power adders we all love to talk about.

For me driving a TVR is an event, it's an experience that fills your senses and delivers the unique feeling of direct connection with the machine lost in all modern cars, even modern performance cars.

I want to relish the tactile pleasures of weighty but direct steering, the joy of flicking the car through bends while you feel the road beneath you, the pleasure of clack clack gear changes and a light yet progressive feeling of a well matched clutch.

If I have all that, if all the controls in the car connect me better to the experience, then I'm achieving my goals. I can still blast past most things in 'Ol Gasbag', she will still surge up to an easy 140 and keep pulling on.

So let the forced induction wait until I have the car just as I want it, because that to me just makes better sense.

Now all that's settled, lets talk twin plate vs single plate clutches

[ChimpOnGas]

450Nick said:

phazed said:

Id go for the 6 speed for reasons quoted by Dave and most importantly the additional strength.

At 460 torques I reckon my box is on borrowed time using the car for TDs,sprints and dragging and a lighter clutch would be more than welcome!

When fitted with an uprated diff and uprated drive shafts, I too will consider FI.

I wouldn't be so sure - Mine was just taken apart to have the S10 tail added and it was "like new" despite running over 400 torques for a number of years now.

My objectives are well documented and not really about strength, as I've already said I'm sure I could get away with just fitting the S10 tail housing and a lighter clutch like the AP unit.

That will certainly do the trick, and I may still do just that as it's going to work out a lot lot cheaper.

But only the 6060 will give me that sixth gear...end of!

And I really would love all the listed benefits with the addition of lower cruising RPMs, the real question is how much can it be done for?

Can anyone recommend the best way to buy a 6060 in the UK?

[ChimpOnGas]

Quinny said:

I had the 6060 in my LS griff.... The gear change was sublime, snick, snick, snick. Through the box...

In fact everyone whom drove the car, (all fellow Griff owners) the first comment they made was WOW, that gearbox is awesome......

Hi Quinny, that's exactly what I want mate.

Can you tell me what clutch was in it?

Two things I didn't realise were:

1. Twin plate clutches dont have concentric cush springs

2. A twin plate clutch with a sprung hub can be had, but will likely cost upwards of £1,600!!!

My chosen clutch needs to be feather light in traffic this time, no more bicep building Helix weight for me, but it must also have zero snatching or rattles on take up.

So I think a decent single plate with concentric cush springs would suit my needs best?

Eventually I will top out at 375hp and 400 torques with forced induction as that's really the the limit of my LPG system, to my mind this will produce a car that's fast enough so I doubt I need an expensive twin plate jobbie anyway.

Your thoughts and experiences on clutches please chaps

[ChimpOnGas]

Boosted LS1 said:

You'll probably go around in circles with this. I tried all sorts and in the end settled for the twin plate Mcleod. It's the best there is or certainly was back then. Has a very nice light progressive pedal and huge amounts of grip. It's a pleasure to use if you get caught in a stop start traffic jam mid summer.

Interesting, the team at Lloyd Specialist Developments told me they had a different experience with that Mk2 Jag. Perhaps its because it was a heavier car but by all accounts the was some chattering and other undesirable traits around town?

At first the 6060 was blamed, but apparently a traditional single plate clutch was dropped in with its typical cush springs to see what happened, and all these unrefined traits completely disappeared.

Like I say pulling way in a 1600kg Jag is a very different thing to a 1100kg sports car, and what someone may accept as nothing in a TVR could well be seen by the owner of a luxury saloon as completely unaceptable.

I don't know the full story so I can't really comment any further.

I don't doubt your research was very thorough Boosted LS1, I also respect your comments as they are clearly based your real world experiences of the Mcleod twin plate in a TVR.

The only other comments I've had on clutches was when I asked Orange Nick (my dad built it) on FaceBook what he thought of his triple plate Super Clutch which I'm damn certain is just a re-branded Quarter Master triple plate from the USA.

Orange Nick (Superchargers are best) simply said it probably wasn't what you'd want around town, which I took as meaning at was a ferocious gabby barsteward

But I stand to be respectfully corrected on this

Any more opinions to add on clutches chaps?

[ChimpOnGas]

macdeb said:

Hi Dave
Just to add, my TKO 600 conversion cost around £3k with me doing the work and the right box coming up at reasonable cost. That included a McLeod twin plate [rated 800hp]clutch and steel flywheel. You know how light it is. The non-spring plates are only an issue [bit of a rattle] if you labour the car in 5th at or below 1500 revs [why would you, I don't drive like that]. There are two sets of ratios fitted to the TKO600, the one set are near as identical to the T5 and the other has longer 5th [which I think someone commented on] and was not for me. A TKO660 would be nice having the 6th gear and a slick change as Quinney says but as I've huge torque, I shall be changing my diff' over the winter for a 308. If you do change, I'd weigh up costs of modifying existing bellhousing, 'twas what I did.
Keep us posted

Edited by macdeb on Tuesday 29th September 18:34

Nice one Mac

macdeb said:

Phuck! just spat my beer out over the keyboard reading that.

PS.... don't waste good beer mate

[ChimpOnGas]

neal1980 said:

Hi COG

I say TR6060 all the way, I have one in mine and its AMAZING!!!!!!!!!!

The gear change is awesome and you know your good for 1000bhp.

Look at parts world that's were mine came from. (they were on offer once if I told you the price I paid you would cry)

I wouldn't even mess around with anything other than a McLeod twin plate I made the mistake of not getting one now I'm saving up for one before my one leg becomes massssivvveee!!!

Good Luck was good to meet you at last.

Neal

Cheers Neal, nice to meet you too mate, and the rest of you mega horse power nutters . I feel like the new nerdy LPG kid who's just been accepted by the cool set

Looks like I've got to find £2160 for a 6060 including tax & delivery from Partsworld Performance.

http://www.partsworldperformance.com/tr-6060-six-s...

Actually I had no idea there were so many options



Then there's what seems like the no-brainer McLeod twin plate clutch option (yes I'm listening boys).

Is this what I need?

http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/mcl-6911-02

If so it's £700 delivered from Summit Racing with all taxes paid using the IParcel system.

So that's £700 plus £2160, making it £2,860 before fitting and maybe a nice light flywheel if I can stretch to it.

http://www.v8tuner.co.uk/product.php?id=445

Lets see what the Lloyd boys quote me to squeeze it in and do the necessary exhaust mods to make it all fit

[ChimpOnGas]

NickOrangeTVR said:

ChimpOnGas said:

The only other comments I've had on clutches was when I asked Orange Nick (my dad built it) on FaceBook what he thought of his triple plate Super Clutch which I'm damn certain is just a re-branded Quarter Master triple plate from the USA.

Orange Nick (Superchargers are best) simply said it probably wasn't what you'd want around town, which I took as meaning at was a ferocious gabby barsteward

It is VERY grabby when it gets warm - but it's totally indestructible, and very very short throw for on the track and still light compared to standard AP clutch. So definitely not for long drives - but perfect on the track.

And no it's not a quartermaster.

Not for me then Orange Nick, but thanks for your contribution

[ChimpOnGas]

SILICONEKID345HP said:

Is that going to bolt straight on to the Rover engine ? what is the gearing rom 1st to sixth compared to the T5 5 speed ?

Ok this one is specially for Daz as I know how much he loves my spreadsheet presentations


From my research there seem to be three gear ratio options offered with the 6060, which look like this next to the BW T5 as fitted to our cars.




Based on 2,500 rpm and my 3.77 diff here's what the 6060 (ratio option 1) would look like on 'Ol Gasbag's' current rear tyres, as we can see my normal cruising velocity of 82 mph is as near as damn it achieved with the engine turning at 2.5k in sixth gear.




Now lets look at what I have now with my T5 at the same 2,500 rpm engine speed...




Finally lets look at how fast my engine needs to spin with my current T5 if I want to achieve that same 81.78 mph cruising speed ...




So that's all pretty clear to me, if I want to cruise at around 82 mph I can knock a massive 726 rpm of my engine speed by having a Tremec TR-6060 and using it's sixth gear rather than my T5s fifth gear.

The same engine running at 2,500 rpm vs one spinning at 3,226 rpm to achieve the same road speed will use a good slug less fuel. I totally understand there's wind resistance at play but this research suggests such a reduction in engine speed could easily deliver as much as a 10% improvement at my chosen cruising gate...

http://www.metrompg.com/posts/rpm-mpg.htm

That means if I'm sucking LPG at 22 mpg at 82 mph which is about right from my tests, 'Ol Gasbag' will be able to achieve an excellent 24.2 mpg with the new six speed box. That takes me from my current petrol cost equivalent of 49.67 mpg to an astonishing 54.64 mpg, not bad for a 4.0 litre V8 rolling along at a steady 82 mph

It will also be quieter and more refined which means I will cover more miles before the wife starts moaning and demanding a stop as we romp through France

And lets not forget an extra 2.2 mpg adds another 30.8 miles to the car's touring range too

With the added gear shift quality benefits the Tremec TR-6060 delivers plus the opportunity to get a far nicer and lighter clutch, I'm sure this six speed gearbox will be my latest modification of choice.

Cost permitting of course

Finally and just for fun here's what happens with the theoretical top speed of 'Ol Gasbag' when I bring that sixth cog into play at 6,000 rpm.



Yes folks 'Ol Gasbag's' top speed goes from 152 mph to an easy 196 mph

I'll be testing that one in a vacuum near you soon

[ChimpOnGas]

QBee said:

I'd be choosing Option 2 out of those - close to the current T5 ratios in third and fourth, but first and second are higher ratios than the T5. I find the current first and second a little low. I also find the gap between second and third bigger than desirable, especially when changing down quickly on a track day.

I take your point Anthony and at first I found myself agreeing with your preference for Option 2, well in gears 1-5 anyway.

But it's not quite as straightforward as it first seems.

What concerns me is how tall sixth gear is on Option 2 which would have the engine turning over at a very low 2,022 rpm when I'm trying to hold my 82 mph on the motorway, I'm not so sure 'Ol Gasbag' might start to struggle a bit to hold that speed if the motorway starts to rise up a gentle inline.

I'm sure even 'Ol Gasbag' has enough puff to push through the significant wind blast at 82 mph at 2,022 rpm on the flat, but essentially when the flow of traffic inevitably slows even a fraction (which happens more frequently than you realise) there's no where to go other than down to fifth.

With Option 1 'Ol Gasbag' would stay in sixth longer, on the motorway you tend to find yourself being forced to slow as low as 65 mph quite frequently usually because someone is overtaking something very slow in the slow lane and everything just a fraction faster moves over one lane. This usually only lasts a few seconds before everyone returns to their correct lane and I'm free to push back up to 82 again.

What I like about Option 1 was that I could modulate my cruising speed simply on the throttle like an auto while staying in sixth and avoiding the need to drop to fifth, in theory with Option 1's 0.62 sixth I could perform this trick over a very practical band of typical motorway speeds making for a very flexibly and relaxed car.

With Option 1 'Ol Gasbag' can drop to 65 mph while staying in sixth as the engine will still be spinning at 2,000 rpm, that's a fast enough engine speed to allow me to gently bring the speed back up to 82 mph where I'll be back doing 2,500 rpm again.

If I went with Option 2 and traffic slowed to 65mph the poor engine will be lugging along at a far too low 1,600 rpm and that would be too cruel on the old girl forcing a down change. I think what I'll find with Option 2 is that I'll be doing a lot of 6th to 5th changes and back up to 6th again and all that cog swapping on the motorway kind of defeats the purpose of fitting a six speed box.

In all other gears I agree Option 2 might be the ratio package of choice, but when you look at how tall sixth is and what tends to happen in the real world when cruising on the motorway then the 0.62 sixth gear ratio on Option 1 is going to offer far better flexibility, and don't forget it still knocks a massive 726 rpm off my current T5 engine speed at my 82 mph cruising speed.

If I had a mighty LS engine with over 400 ft/lbs torque I wouldn't think twice about Option 2, but this is 'Ol Gasbag' were talking about here, and with only 260 ft/lbs on tap I think Option 1 would prove far more suitable.

With Option 1 4th & 5th gears are exactly the same ratios as my current T5 all that really changes is the first three ratios are slightly lower and I get a taller but not too tall 6th gear for cruising on the motorway. And those lower first three cogs could have advantages in town as often I find myself swapping between my currently too low 2nd and lugging along in 3rd which at 20ish mph is a bit cruel on the engine.

The way I see it the 1.43 3rd gear ratio of Option 1 will allow me to cruise through towns again like an auto in just that gear while simply modulating my speed using just the throttle.

So on the street (motorway & town) and based on 'Ol Gasbag's' modest power and torque outputs it seems pretty conclusive to me I would definitely be better off going with Option 1

[ChimpOnGas]

neal1980 said:

I wish I had bought a few more now

Think I paid £998.00 + VAT BRAND NEW, Boxed

Stop teasing you

[ChimpOnGas]

BoostedChim said:

ChimpOnGas said:

Based on 2,500 rpm and my 3.77 diff....

Have you changed your diff to speed 6 one? I thought chim and griff diffs were 3.46.

My mistake then, damn and blast it, I need to do all me calcs again

What a retard I am

[ChimpOnGas]

To get the right ratios apparently what I need is either a Tremec TUET11009 or a TUET-11010 GM LS T56 Magnum.

http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/awr-tuet1100...

http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/awr-tuet1101...

These two codes give the Option one box with the first 3 gears a fraction lower than my T5 and 4th & 5th exactly the same, so I could easily just treat it as a much nicer shifting 5 speed with a lovely light clutch if I wanted.

But then there's always the option to pop it into sixth if I feel the need to, making the TUET11009/TUET-11010 effectively what I have now plus one.

Sounds perfect to me

I've now corrected my diff to a 3.46, as you can see I really wouldn't want a taller sixth than the 0.62


First up at my chosen cruising velocity of 82 MPH the engine is turning at just 2,300 RPM .





And now if I say 2,000 RPM is my lower engine speed limit my lowest acceptable road speed in sixth will be a shade over 71 MPH.




I think TUET11009/TUET-11010 could work well, but I definitely need to avoid the more commonly offered TUET-11011 or TUET-11012 box with its super tall 0.50 sixth gear.

Dave.

Edited by ChimpOnGas on Wednesday 30th September 18:10

[ChimpOnGas]

DangerousDerek said:

I would love a TR6060.
I wonder if we could get a group buy price down to the kind of offer that Neal and Alex were lucky to get.
At least get a substantial discount.

Who's in?

phazed said:

Put me on the provisional list please.

Good call Derek

Come on boys, lets see if we can put this together, I need this box so much it hurts!!!

[ChimpOnGas]

phazed said:

Alex, sell me your 6 speed

Lets split it and take three gears each Peter

[ChimpOnGas]

Well it's a shame but after doing all the costings the T56 project is'nt really financially viable for me.

Well, lets put it this way... The costs far out way the benefits

Being honest with myself what I'm really looking to achieve here is to say goodbye to the God awful and super heavy Helix clutch and go with something a lit nicer to use.

I also want a nicer shifting box which is why I started the following post...

http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=149...

So I've done the sensible thing yet again and just pulled the trigger on an S10 tail housing which along with the Burton quick shift and a lighter clutch is going to me the most cost effective way to improve the one area of the car that lets it down in the aspect of driver enjoyment.

It's a shame really because that extra gear would have been lovely but that's more or less the only benefit to spending around £3,000 more than what I've chosen to do in the end.

That money can be better used by putting it towards the forced induction fund and some other jobs I want done like moving the fuse board, buying SC-Power engine mounts ect ect ect.

Now I've bought that S10 tail housing all I really want to know is if the Burton Quick Shift is worth the extra £120 and should I drop my flywheel weight one more step and fit the 15lbs one from V8 Tuner?

Thanks for everyone's input, a few of you suggested sticking with my T5 right from the start but I still enjoyed thrashing out the T56 idea until I finally accepted it made a heap more sense to follow the advice, stick with and improve what I already have.

Cheers boys, here's to a nice light clutch and a super slick gear shift in 'Ol Gasbag'.

Dave..

[ChimpOnGas]

Alexdaredevils said:

I think the heavy clutch issues are down to the pedal ratios Dave, as my clutch is stupid heavy!

Sat in a Vette with near enough same clutch but the pedal was longer by a good 3 inches and felt like as light as a Civic clutch

So maybe moving the clevis pin up 5mm and a pedal extension 1-2 inch might solve everything

Nice idea in theory Alex but remember the the objective of the pedal stroke is to move the push rod down the bore of the master cylinder in exactly the same plane as the bore.

If you think about it the location of clevis pin is more or less a fixed point dictated by where TVR mounted the master cylinder. The only way to gain a mechanical advantage while maintaining the clevis pin point (and the essential straight push rod stroke) is to increase the pedal length, IE the clevis pin centre to the point your foot applys the pushing force to pedal.

The obvious problem with this is that the bottom of the pedal will be become lower in the footwell and closer to the floor, unless you have tiny child like size 6 feet your heel will either be through the floor or you'll need to push the pedal with your heel

The limitations of introducing greater leverage are dictated by:

1: The fixed position of the master cylinder

2: The distance from the ball of your foot and your heel

3: The distance between the floor and the clevis pin

I's a nice idea to increase pedal length to increase the leverage but it isn't really practical given these fairly fixed perimeters.

And don't forget leverage is just another form of gearing, while increasing the length of a lever will reduce the force needed to move a given load, you will also need to move that lever further to achieve the same distance you move that load.

Even if you could squeeze a longer pedal in the Chimaera footwell you may just find the stroke required to disengage the clutch will either mean you'd need the pedal starting so high your knee will be up by your ear, or you'd need a six foot leg and pedal that went through the floor when you disengage the clutch.

Sadly and for all these reasons, trying to gain a mechanical advantage by increasing leverage is completely impractical.

It's the same packaging & leverage challenge with the brake pedal, actually without some help you would need very strong leg muscles indeed to apply the brakes of any modern car. Since the 1950's mnufcturers have solved this problem by using a servo which is why I explored the servo clutch idea extensively a few yers ago.

There is a clutch servo kit you can buy for the Land Rover that gives a very light clutch pedal indeed, you can't really use this kit on Chimera due to space, but you could fit a remote servo.

In the end I didn't follow through with this idea for the following reasons:

1. Cost

2. Potential loss of feel

3. No clutch until the engine is started, unless you fit a vacuum accumulator or electric vac pump (Diesel brake type)

4. With a correctly engineered clutch you really shouldn't need a clutch servo

But QBee took my idea and got engineer1949 to install a remote servo system, now I haven't tried the feel of Anthony's servo clutch but by all accounts it's as lovely and light as you might expect by there is the issue of it not working until you've started the car which makes leaving the car parked in gear impractical.

The reality is the solution to a lighter clutch for me is simply to ditch the heavy Helix and fit a better and lighter weighted unit, the truth is even with a supercharger 'Ol Gasbag' doesn't need a clutch with the insane ergonomically unfriendly clamping forces of a Helix.

I spoke with Lloyd Specialist Developments yesterday and they took me through all the work they've done quietly in the background to source a clutch that was both light on the foot and suitable for higher horsepower Chimaera's & Griffs.

They explained they have now settled on a unit that is both feather light and will happily doing service in many of their customer's higher horsepower cars including at least one running a supercharger.

TBH that's good enough for me, LSD have done all the work to find the right parts and they 100% stand by their work, so I'll simply have them do the swap and if their clutch doesn't last or work exactly as promised they will sort it FOC.

My guess is they would rather just do the job once and have happy customer than pull the thing down at their own cost until they get it right, which is why they've invested the time upfront in making sure they use the right parts in the first place, parts that are proven to give the desired result first time every time.

Works for me

[ChimpOnGas]

QBee said:

I do park mine in gear, but I do mainly park it on the flat.
The reason I park it in gear always is that I hate the hand brake!
And on track days you can warp the disks using the handbrake.

If I start it in gear, with foot on clutch, the first lift of the clutch can feel clunky.
I either just put up with it, or knock it out if gear and give the clutch a couple of pumps.
It's worth it to have the lighter clutch - I have an arthritic left foot, and it's the ball of my big toe that hurts the most.
With the clutch lightened I can stand any amount of stop-start driving.

If anyone actually wants to try my lightened clutch, just ask. Always happy to help.

I'd love to try it Anthony, when are you next in the South mate?

[ChimpOnGas]

ChimpOnGas said:

I've bought that S10 tail housing

Bassfiend229hp said:

Where did you get your tailhousing from? I had a hell of a time locating one!
Phil

Hi Phil, easy as an EBay search mate.

I picked up a brand new S-10 tail housing from Paul Cangialosi of The Medatronics Corporation which is actually a small business operating out of Tequesta, Florida...

https://www.youtube.com/user/GearWorldTV

Here's Paul's website...

http://www.5speeds.com/

Paul Cangialosi is a respected US manual transmission specialist, I know him from the Jag E-Type T5 conversion kit he developed & sells. If you have a E-Type and want a five speed box he's your man, or you could just pay one of the UK E-Type specialists five times the price for the exactly same thing

Here's his EBay shop...

http://stores.ebay.co.uk/5SpeedsCom?_trksid=p20476...

Dave.