Dies on initial start ups
Discussion
When she is first started she idles then fades to a stall.
No issues when actually driving,generally holds idle in traffic.
But when parked up and return,she idles and dies.
Dont understand,checked and cleaned stepper motor,and even tried another one but no joy.
Yesterday she stalled and then struggled to start on turnover,left for a short period then kicked up
Help please
No issues when actually driving,generally holds idle in traffic.
But when parked up and return,she idles and dies.
Dont understand,checked and cleaned stepper motor,and even tried another one but no joy.
Yesterday she stalled and then struggled to start on turnover,left for a short period then kicked up
Help please
The 'extract' from a document below has the issues i have at the moment
What Are the Symptoms of a Faulty Mass Air Flow Sensor?
The engine stalls soon after starting.
The engine drags or hesitates when idle or under load.
The engine hesitates and jerks during acceleration.
The engine hiccups.
The engine displays unusually lean or rich idling.
What Are the Symptoms of a Faulty Mass Air Flow Sensor?
The engine stalls soon after starting.
The engine drags or hesitates when idle or under load.
The engine hesitates and jerks during acceleration.
The engine hiccups.
The engine displays unusually lean or rich idling.
QBee said:
CHIMV8 said:
The 'extract' from a document below has the issues i have at the moment
What Are the Symptoms of a Faulty Mass Air Flow Sensor?
The engine stalls soon after starting.
The engine drags or hesitates when idle or under load.
The engine hesitates and jerks during acceleration.
The engine hiccups.
The engine displays unusually lean or rich idling.
Paul's spare AFM sounds like your next step.What Are the Symptoms of a Faulty Mass Air Flow Sensor?
The engine stalls soon after starting.
The engine drags or hesitates when idle or under load.
The engine hesitates and jerks during acceleration.
The engine hiccups.
The engine displays unusually lean or rich idling.
CHIMV8 said:
QBee said:
CHIMV8 said:
The 'extract' from a document below has the issues i have at the moment
What Are the Symptoms of a Faulty Mass Air Flow Sensor?
The engine stalls soon after starting.
The engine drags or hesitates when idle or under load.
The engine hesitates and jerks during acceleration.
The engine hiccups.
The engine displays unusually lean or rich idling.
Paul's spare AFM sounds like your next step.What Are the Symptoms of a Faulty Mass Air Flow Sensor?
The engine stalls soon after starting.
The engine drags or hesitates when idle or under load.
The engine hesitates and jerks during acceleration.
The engine hiccups.
The engine displays unusually lean or rich idling.
QBee said:
CHIMV8 said:
Ozstyle said:
Hi,
I had very similar starting/stalling at idle issue.
I checked and adjusted the base idle which cured my problem.
I removed the screw altogether surprised at the amount of black oily/carbon crud I cleaned out of the screw hole.
Ozstyle
Where will i find that?I had very similar starting/stalling at idle issue.
I checked and adjusted the base idle which cured my problem.
I removed the screw altogether surprised at the amount of black oily/carbon crud I cleaned out of the screw hole.
Ozstyle
MPoxon said:
Bear in mind you have had a full engine rebuild and a high lift cam fitted, you may need a remap of the ECU to get it running spot on.
When I changed the injectors, AFM and fuel reg on mine it required a remap - same issue as yours, wouldn't idle properly.
Still to try the spare AFM(work getting in the way as usual!!),but comments noted..When I changed the injectors, AFM and fuel reg on mine it required a remap - same issue as yours, wouldn't idle properly.
Changing the AFM doesnt seem to have solved anything
Was messing with plug lead connections on dizzy yesterday,dont know if coincidence but engine note changed and seemed to hold smooth idle,but tried that agin this morning and no joy.
Might just try and change the dizzy cap for the sake of it,with a new Lucas unit ans see what happens
Was messing with plug lead connections on dizzy yesterday,dont know if coincidence but engine note changed and seemed to hold smooth idle,but tried that agin this morning and no joy.
Might just try and change the dizzy cap for the sake of it,with a new Lucas unit ans see what happens
Update
Came back off hols this week,and thought lets get into this issue.
Unplugged and cleaned/reconnected all electrical parts...no joy
Changed AFM with 2 others again...no joy
Cleaned steeper motor again ..no joy
Removed 90 induction bend,turned throttle and cleaned all round flapper and the surrounding sealing edges on plenum...bingo!!
Turned ignition,and she started on a smooth constant idle.
Issue.....she now idles at approx 1100-1200 revs constantly
Any ideas,tried turning the idle basse screw to reduce but no joy
Flattened the bypass pipe, and let go as Mr Heath states in the bible but no joy
Help if any knowledge out there for further ideas
Came back off hols this week,and thought lets get into this issue.
Unplugged and cleaned/reconnected all electrical parts...no joy
Changed AFM with 2 others again...no joy
Cleaned steeper motor again ..no joy
Removed 90 induction bend,turned throttle and cleaned all round flapper and the surrounding sealing edges on plenum...bingo!!
Turned ignition,and she started on a smooth constant idle.
Issue.....she now idles at approx 1100-1200 revs constantly
Any ideas,tried turning the idle basse screw to reduce but no joy
Flattened the bypass pipe, and let go as Mr Heath states in the bible but no joy
Help if any knowledge out there for further ideas
MPoxon said:
CHIMV8 said:
Issue.....she now idles at approx 1100-1200 revs constantly
Any ideas,tried turning the idle basse screw to reduce but no joy
Flattened the bypass pipe, and let go as Mr Heath states in the bible but no joy
Help if any knowledge out there for further ideas
This kit might solve your revving issue but I still think there is either a root cause to these issues or you need a remap due to the change of cam profile.Any ideas,tried turning the idle basse screw to reduce but no joy
Flattened the bypass pipe, and let go as Mr Heath states in the bible but no joy
Help if any knowledge out there for further ideas
http://www.sc-power.co.uk/pages/sc-power-stepper-r...
Just trying all the tick off basics,to short term solve before winter,as stated previous she is going to Jools in New Year anyway...but as usual fingers crossed on next run out
CHIMV8 said:
Colin RedGriff said:
Now it's idling okay does it still run okay in normal driving?
Might be worth unplugging the ECU to clear out any stored values from when you were having idle problems
Not had chance to run yet,will try the ECU disconnectionMight be worth unplugging the ECU to clear out any stored values from when you were having idle problems
Thanks
Disconnected and reconnected the ECU,took her for a drive and bingo,she idles at 800 without missing a beat
Thanks for all your comments and suggestions,and another learning curve in understanding the workings of a TVR
QBee said:
So pleasing when it all comes together and works like it was intended.
I am well pleased for you - I had months of idling problems a way back, and it is so nice when it all clears up and you can stop making excuses for the car to yourself and others.
Thanks Anthony.worse bit of all this issue, is when you are waiting at lights for instance, and she keeps cutting out,and you know people are looking and thinking, its a TVR what do you expect...I am well pleased for you - I had months of idling problems a way back, and it is so nice when it all clears up and you can stop making excuses for the car to yourself and others.
But it is great to have her as she should be,as he reaches and touches a piece of wood
UPDATE
The piece of wood i touched was not large enough
She was behaving a bit weird again on last run out,but thought it was the old paranoia again.
Anyway,took her out yesterday,and she kept stalling on start up again,and felt underpowered when eventually underway,gave her a good run before i pulled over to check dizzy and leads connection,all seemed pushed and in place.
Run again,no joy,so pulled over and disconnected/reconnected ECU,no joy
Worse thing of all i had the wife in the car,so chucked her out,and that didn't make a difference,but the silence was great
Couldnt understand,it seemed like a cylinder was down but all seemed connected......until
Lifted the bonnet again(stopped first obviously!!) and checked the leads were solid against the adapters,which they were,but while moving my hand between each plug i caught a lead slightly and it lifted off,strange,the connection looked odd compared to what i thought it should.
What dawned on me was the connection,whatever type was unstable and pointed to the running issues.
The sleeve on the HT lead was seating correctly over the extender shroud, and the metal connector in the lead was basically resting on the small metal part on the extender
Checked the rest on the plug/extender connections,and another 2 were the same........the top of the extenders had snapped all in the same spot,and left the metal in 2 parts with in the HT lead sleeve...so when they were in the connected position the surfaces were partially together...YOU CAN SEE THE 2 METAL SURFACES ON THE 1ST EXTENDER IN PIC
Since i have had her back,i have never pulled at the lead tops before only pushed to check secure,so god knows what caused this
You may think this should have been obvious,but the issue was never a constant,and the mating of the 2 pieces with in the rubber shroud seemed to hold together for some weird reason,until yesterday, when it was obvious there was more wrong than usual.
I have taken some advise from Peter J,(take away 2 connection points from the system) taken out the extenders,and connected the HT Leads direct to the plug heads,ensuring the leads are secured back from the manifolds,heat shield HT lead socks on order.
Needless to say even on a quick run out in the rain, she is a different car........where's that piece of wood again
For the record these werent cheap china products,they were from Germany.....
The piece of wood i touched was not large enough
She was behaving a bit weird again on last run out,but thought it was the old paranoia again.
Anyway,took her out yesterday,and she kept stalling on start up again,and felt underpowered when eventually underway,gave her a good run before i pulled over to check dizzy and leads connection,all seemed pushed and in place.
Run again,no joy,so pulled over and disconnected/reconnected ECU,no joy
Worse thing of all i had the wife in the car,so chucked her out,and that didn't make a difference,but the silence was great
Couldnt understand,it seemed like a cylinder was down but all seemed connected......until
Lifted the bonnet again(stopped first obviously!!) and checked the leads were solid against the adapters,which they were,but while moving my hand between each plug i caught a lead slightly and it lifted off,strange,the connection looked odd compared to what i thought it should.
What dawned on me was the connection,whatever type was unstable and pointed to the running issues.
The sleeve on the HT lead was seating correctly over the extender shroud, and the metal connector in the lead was basically resting on the small metal part on the extender
Checked the rest on the plug/extender connections,and another 2 were the same........the top of the extenders had snapped all in the same spot,and left the metal in 2 parts with in the HT lead sleeve...so when they were in the connected position the surfaces were partially together...YOU CAN SEE THE 2 METAL SURFACES ON THE 1ST EXTENDER IN PIC
Since i have had her back,i have never pulled at the lead tops before only pushed to check secure,so god knows what caused this
You may think this should have been obvious,but the issue was never a constant,and the mating of the 2 pieces with in the rubber shroud seemed to hold together for some weird reason,until yesterday, when it was obvious there was more wrong than usual.
I have taken some advise from Peter J,(take away 2 connection points from the system) taken out the extenders,and connected the HT Leads direct to the plug heads,ensuring the leads are secured back from the manifolds,heat shield HT lead socks on order.
Needless to say even on a quick run out in the rain, she is a different car........where's that piece of wood again
For the record these werent cheap china products,they were from Germany.....
Edited by CHIMV8 on Wednesday 30th December 13:41
CHIMV8 said:
UPDATE
The piece of wood i touched was not large enough
She was behaving a bit weird again on last run out,but thought it was the old paranoia again.
Anyway,took her out yesterday,and she kept stalling on start up again,and felt underpowered when eventually underway,gave her a good run before i pulled over to check dizzy and leads connection,all seemed pushed and in place.
Run again,no joy,so pulled over and disconnected/reconnected ECU,no joy
Worse thing of all i had the wife in the car,so chucked her out,and that didn't make a difference,but the silence was great
Couldnt understand,it seemed like a cylinder was down but all seemed connected......until
Lifted the bonnet again(stopped first obviously!!) and checked the leads were solid against the adapters,which they were,but while moving my hand between each plug i caught a lead slightly and it lifted off,strange,the connection looked odd compared to what i thought it should.
What dawned on me was the connection,whatever type was unstable and pointed to the running issues.
The sleeve on the HT lead was seating correctly over the extender shroud, and the metal connector in the lead was basically resting on the small metal part on the extender
Checked the rest on the plug/extender connections,and another 2 were the same........the top of the extenders had snapped all in the same spot,and left the metal in 2 parts with in the HT lead sleeve...so when they were in the connected position the surfaces were partially together...YOU CAN SEE THE 2 METAL SURFACES ON THE 1ST EXTENDER IN PIC
Since i have had her back,i have never pulled at the lead tops before only pushed to check secure,so god knows what caused this
You may think this should have been obvious,but the issue was never a constant,and the mating of the 2 pieces with in the rubber shroud seemed to hold together for some weird reason,until yesterday, when it was obvious there was more wrong than usual.
I have taken some advise from Peter J,(take away 2 connection points from the system) taken out the extenders,and connected the HT Leads direct to the plug heads,ensuring the leads are secured back from the manifolds,heat shield HT lead socks on order.
Needless to say even on a quick run out in the rain, she is a different car........where's that piece of wood again
For the record these werent cheap china products,they were from Germany.....
Well its been a while, since I went in the garage to see her.The piece of wood i touched was not large enough
She was behaving a bit weird again on last run out,but thought it was the old paranoia again.
Anyway,took her out yesterday,and she kept stalling on start up again,and felt underpowered when eventually underway,gave her a good run before i pulled over to check dizzy and leads connection,all seemed pushed and in place.
Run again,no joy,so pulled over and disconnected/reconnected ECU,no joy
Worse thing of all i had the wife in the car,so chucked her out,and that didn't make a difference,but the silence was great
Couldnt understand,it seemed like a cylinder was down but all seemed connected......until
Lifted the bonnet again(stopped first obviously!!) and checked the leads were solid against the adapters,which they were,but while moving my hand between each plug i caught a lead slightly and it lifted off,strange,the connection looked odd compared to what i thought it should.
What dawned on me was the connection,whatever type was unstable and pointed to the running issues.
The sleeve on the HT lead was seating correctly over the extender shroud, and the metal connector in the lead was basically resting on the small metal part on the extender
Checked the rest on the plug/extender connections,and another 2 were the same........the top of the extenders had snapped all in the same spot,and left the metal in 2 parts with in the HT lead sleeve...so when they were in the connected position the surfaces were partially together...YOU CAN SEE THE 2 METAL SURFACES ON THE 1ST EXTENDER IN PIC
Since i have had her back,i have never pulled at the lead tops before only pushed to check secure,so god knows what caused this
You may think this should have been obvious,but the issue was never a constant,and the mating of the 2 pieces with in the rubber shroud seemed to hold together for some weird reason,until yesterday, when it was obvious there was more wrong than usual.
I have taken some advise from Peter J,(take away 2 connection points from the system) taken out the extenders,and connected the HT Leads direct to the plug heads,ensuring the leads are secured back from the manifolds,heat shield HT lead socks on order.
Needless to say even on a quick run out in the rain, she is a different car........where's that piece of wood again
For the record these werent cheap china products,they were from Germany.....
Edited by CHIMV8 on Wednesday 30th December 13:41
With 3 cylinders running on dodge extenders for a number of miles,sacked the extenders, and connected the leads direct with thermal glove covers, and thought it best to change the plugs as no ignition in the cylinder is not going to look after the plug ends
On advice of Dave and Anthony,i bought the iridium spark plugs to replace the existing set.
Thought i'd post a pic of what the condition of the plugs are coming out of the effected cylinders.
Well, its been a testing journey, to solve this issue.
But after a 350 mile round trip yesterday to Cambridge and back,i can safely say I smiled all the way there and back, in a faultless drive.... we won't talk about the fuel mpg!!!! Heavy right foot was implemented on many occasion LoL!!
As you can read through the topic, its a process of elimination.
In the end
Due to cylinder down issues, replaced the plugs with these
Wasn't really happy with plug leads fitting directly to spark plug, and thermal socks covering them.
So joined a couple of mates and bought a set of racing leads from the USA, with ceramic boots on the ends that connect to the spark plugs, in theory the ceramic ends were replacing the defective steel plug extenders, all we had to do was cut the leads to size and crimp the ends which connect to the dizzy cap.
While removing the old leads, even though I used to check they were fully pushed into the cap, when we took them off, they came away to easily, in fact they were to loose and had no securing click sound.....2nd issue found on the idle problem..
New leads installed
Moral of the topic, never give up there is always and answer out there some where...
Now lets get the keys and give her a blast
But after a 350 mile round trip yesterday to Cambridge and back,i can safely say I smiled all the way there and back, in a faultless drive.... we won't talk about the fuel mpg!!!! Heavy right foot was implemented on many occasion LoL!!
As you can read through the topic, its a process of elimination.
In the end
Due to cylinder down issues, replaced the plugs with these
Wasn't really happy with plug leads fitting directly to spark plug, and thermal socks covering them.
So joined a couple of mates and bought a set of racing leads from the USA, with ceramic boots on the ends that connect to the spark plugs, in theory the ceramic ends were replacing the defective steel plug extenders, all we had to do was cut the leads to size and crimp the ends which connect to the dizzy cap.
While removing the old leads, even though I used to check they were fully pushed into the cap, when we took them off, they came away to easily, in fact they were to loose and had no securing click sound.....2nd issue found on the idle problem..
New leads installed
Moral of the topic, never give up there is always and answer out there some where...
Now lets get the keys and give her a blast
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