Testing actual water temp
Discussion
Hi
I have recently bought a 95 Chimaera 500 and due to the weather I have only driven it a few times so far, but one thing I am cautious of is that as at standstill the temp gauge goes from its normal 90 up to 110 quite quickly, 3 or 4 sets of lights is enough, or if I just let it idle it's the same.
I have had a new standard otter switch fitted, the fans cut in at about 110 but only stay on for 1 or 2 minutes before switching off again, the gauge doesn't move in that time, I tried measuring the swirl pot temp with an IR gun but it wasn't happy pointing at shiny aluminium and recorded 150.
So I figure that either my display or sensor could be reading high and the point when the fans switch on is actually around 90 instead of the 110 displayed, but I also wondered about what happens if either the pump is not pumping or the thermostat stays closed, I guess the actual water temp in the engine would get hot but the water in the swirl pot would remain colder, is there anyway without removing or replacing both that I can test to see what is happening?, I guess an airlock could also show a similar issue?
Any thoughts welcome, I don't want to risk just assuming it's a dodgy gauge.
Thanks
Paul
I have recently bought a 95 Chimaera 500 and due to the weather I have only driven it a few times so far, but one thing I am cautious of is that as at standstill the temp gauge goes from its normal 90 up to 110 quite quickly, 3 or 4 sets of lights is enough, or if I just let it idle it's the same.
I have had a new standard otter switch fitted, the fans cut in at about 110 but only stay on for 1 or 2 minutes before switching off again, the gauge doesn't move in that time, I tried measuring the swirl pot temp with an IR gun but it wasn't happy pointing at shiny aluminium and recorded 150.
So I figure that either my display or sensor could be reading high and the point when the fans switch on is actually around 90 instead of the 110 displayed, but I also wondered about what happens if either the pump is not pumping or the thermostat stays closed, I guess the actual water temp in the engine would get hot but the water in the swirl pot would remain colder, is there anyway without removing or replacing both that I can test to see what is happening?, I guess an airlock could also show a similar issue?
Any thoughts welcome, I don't want to risk just assuming it's a dodgy gauge.
Thanks
Paul
Hi, the expansion pot is about 2/3 full, I don't loose anything out of the pressure release, I haven't checked the swirl pot level, I will do so.
When the stat opens should I be able to feel the hoses to the radiator expand / pressurise?
I have read up quite a lot on the subject and read a lot about reading from the other sensor, but haven't really read much about people actually doing it, is it recommended?
Thanks
Paul
When the stat opens should I be able to feel the hoses to the radiator expand / pressurise?
I have read up quite a lot on the subject and read a lot about reading from the other sensor, but haven't really read much about people actually doing it, is it recommended?
Thanks
Paul
Hi, I will try the Rover sense then with a 160 ohm resistor, but if I find that my gauge is also a bit dubious after checking against a reading from the rover gauge could I replace the fixed resistor for a variable one and tune the output to match actual temp and the gauge display?
Thanks
Paul
Thanks
Paul
So is it possible to put a sender in the preferred rover position that has the characteristics of the TVR one?, if not do I use the rover gauge to read the actual temp and learn the difference between that and the gauge? But then it's also stated that the sender is in a flow dead spot and therefore inconsistent, this is all getting a bit confusing knowing which way to go, I had kind of thought reading the water temp was going to be straightforward?
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