Clutch problems

[Paulprior]

I had a great day out driving with some friends in my 95 Chim 500, but on the way home it started to get difficult to go from 4th to 5th, when I next stopped at some lights I could only get it into 4th so I had to pull away like that, it did it quite easily, but next time I tried to change it wouldn't move out of 4th, so I did the last 20 miles like that and fortunately didn't have to stop until I got home, when I put the clutch in and braked the engine cut out, but a slow stop as if the clutch was partially operating.
If I press the clutch pedal it doesn't feel right, kind of soft, so I'm wondering if I have lost fluid or the master / slave have failed?
I have pushed the car into the garage, are there any recomended tests I can do to determine where the problem is?, I only have a single jack if I need to get underneath.
Any suggestions greatly appreciated.
Paul

[Paulprior]

I will check the resevoir level today, it hasnt been ignored as i replaced the fluid earlier this year shortly after i bought the car, but is obviously an easy check.

To access the bellhousing is it enough to jack up the front of the car or from the side?

[Paulprior]

Hi QBee, yes I seem to have some challenges😀, although I guess I was rather lucky the clutch failed on the way home and it last operated with 20 miles to go and 5 roundabouts to negotiate in 4th gear only, also although my car has not cutout in over 1000 miles since you lent me your ECU, it did it twice yesterday😟, a bit embarrassing when I was leading a run out of 5 cars.
So obviously I need to fix the clutch, if the cutting out has started again I need to fix the hot start slow crank speed issue so at least I can reliably restart, somehow find the cause of cutting out and intermittent misfiring, then it's fix radio reception, a new set of carpets, new dash as my wood is severely cracked, and that's about it as far as I know at the moment, I would also like to rebuild the engine / replace the cams to get some power back and lift the body to paint the chassis, but I guess that's next year😊, all the joys of TVR ownership I guess😀
One thing yesterday though, I thought I could smell something very hot / burning while driving, even though I had the roof down, has anyone experienced this?

[Paulprior]

When I get under the bell housing can I see the dlave cylinder actuator? If so how far should it be moving? I'm guessing that I have some movement but maybe not enough to fully disengage the clutch
Paul

[Paulprior]

What's one of those?

[Paulprior]

QBee suggestion could be useful😀

So I guess I need to get underneath and see if the pivot arm looks ok or if it's a cylinder problem, can the slave cylinder leak past its seal to give the same symptoms as the master cylinder? Or is just oil on one side of the piston with nowhere to bypass to at the front apart from the floor?

[Paulprior]

So all my clutch fluid has gone from the master cylinder and i have a small pool of a clear liquid half way under the car level with the door hinge, so i guess its the slave cylinder leaking, where do i get one without resorting to online, Landrover maybe?

Is it possible to jack the car from the side on the outriggers?, my jack wont go in far enough to get to the front brace before it hits the bodywork

[Paulprior]

So all my clutch fluid has gone from the master cylinder and i have a small pool of a clear liquid half way under the car level with the door hinge, so i guess its the slave cylinder leaking, where do i get one without resorting to online, Landrover maybe?

Is it possible to jack the car from the side on the outriggers?, my jack wont go in far enough to get to the front brace before it hits the bodywork

Just been under for a look, its not clear where the leak is as there is a bit of oil on many areas, i guess i need to refill it, clean as much as possible and keep an eye on it

[Paulprior]

Hi Guys, being new to TVRs, who are the recomended usual sources of such things?
Thanks

Paul

[Paulprior]

Hi, so I have removed the slave cylinder as in the photos, is this standard? Main reason for asking is that it had 2 washers fitted between the flange and bell housing on each side.
As the brake pipe nut was 1/2 inch I assume the nut thread is also imperial, can I get a direct replacement or do I need to convert to metric?
Thanks
Paul

[Paulprior]

Just a quick question on the slave cylinder, when i removed the 2 mounting bolts there was what felt like a spring pressure pushing the cylinder back for about 5mm, also the 2 washers that were fitted inbetween the cylinder and housing, i have ordered a new one from TVR Powers but does anyone have any thoughts on what i have seen?
Thanks
Paul

[Paulprior]

Ok, I was just wondering if an incorrect cylinder had been fitted and the washers had been fitted to reduce pressure, and if there should be any pressure on the clutch at all until you activate the pedal
Paul

[Paulprior]

So a preload sounds ok then, it's just a matter of how much, if I fit the cylinder with the piston fully back any idea on how close to the bell housing I should get before I get the feel of the preload?

[Paulprior]

With or without resistance?

[Paulprior]

Hi, sorry for a lot of basic questions, it's just that I want to ensure that when I refit I'm not applying to much pressure before I actually operate the clutch, I assume that can't be good, I should be able to compare the old and new tomorrow as well as refit, maybe then it will appear more logical
Thank
Paul

[Paulprior]

Hi
I compared the new to old cylinder, but the old one didnt move as it should, in fact without trying extra force it didnt move at all, it was much clearer to see whats what with the new one, anyway, i rebuilt the new one without the washers for spacers and everything works great, thanks for all your help
Paul