Connector identity
Discussion
Hi
I tried this morning to shake / flex the cables near the ECU while the engine was running to see if I could try and force the intermittent cutout / misfire that I get, but found nothing, took the car for a drive and after about 5 miles it started running very poorly, stopped for petrol and that was it, no restart until I left it for 30 minutes, I tried again later and it did exactly the same, so moving the cables around has had an effect even if it's negative, does anyone know how to open up the big ECU connector to check the pins?, also I see an odd looking blue connector which I don't understand, any ideas?
I tried this morning to shake / flex the cables near the ECU while the engine was running to see if I could try and force the intermittent cutout / misfire that I get, but found nothing, took the car for a drive and after about 5 miles it started running very poorly, stopped for petrol and that was it, no restart until I left it for 30 minutes, I tried again later and it did exactly the same, so moving the cables around has had an effect even if it's negative, does anyone know how to open up the big ECU connector to check the pins?, also I see an odd looking blue connector which I don't understand, any ideas?
Thanks ukdj, that's very helpful.
Things have got worse now, I was looking to connect a 12v led to the output of the fuel pump relay, connected it up, went to test it but got nothing, the supply to the relay contact is good but no output, it's not clear if the relay is energising, but I get no 12v output, the engine does turn over though, does anyone have an Elec circuit drawing for this area on a 95 Chimaera 500?
Hopefully tomorrow I can get someone to assist with turning the key while I measure stuff.
Paul
Things have got worse now, I was looking to connect a 12v led to the output of the fuel pump relay, connected it up, went to test it but got nothing, the supply to the relay contact is good but no output, it's not clear if the relay is energising, but I get no 12v output, the engine does turn over though, does anyone have an Elec circuit drawing for this area on a 95 Chimaera 500?
Hopefully tomorrow I can get someone to assist with turning the key while I measure stuff.
Paul
Does anyone know how the connections are in that blue connector?
I have been taking a look at my cables to the pump relay, as the diagram above i have a constant 12v on pin 30, but not on pin 86, i need the ignition plus immobiliser on before i get power, the cable as shown is coloured W/G and i see 2 cables of that description in the blue connector, in the picture they are the bottom right and the 4 to the left, is this connector SK2/4 as in the diagram?
Pin 85 appears to go to the ECU as per the diagram, so its somewhere near, but i appear to be switching on both sides of the coil, crazy electric system.
One other point, i found i had 12v on both W/G cables in the blue connector along with that complete block of 8 (2x4) at that end of the connector, they all went to zero when i switched off the ignition, but it was getting too dark to do much more after that
Paul
I have been taking a look at my cables to the pump relay, as the diagram above i have a constant 12v on pin 30, but not on pin 86, i need the ignition plus immobiliser on before i get power, the cable as shown is coloured W/G and i see 2 cables of that description in the blue connector, in the picture they are the bottom right and the 4 to the left, is this connector SK2/4 as in the diagram?
Pin 85 appears to go to the ECU as per the diagram, so its somewhere near, but i appear to be switching on both sides of the coil, crazy electric system.
One other point, i found i had 12v on both W/G cables in the blue connector along with that complete block of 8 (2x4) at that end of the connector, they all went to zero when i switched off the ignition, but it was getting too dark to do much more after that
Paul
Thanks for the suggestions above, i hadnt thought about the resistors or their connections, i have seen one inside the footwell and one somewhere in the engine bay, i will try looking tonight.
Blitz, so its possible that the block of 8 are linked internally then?, do you know the breakdown of the internal links to save me breaking it open, it looks to be in very good condition along with the connectors, im more interested in trying to understand my electrical circuit so i can check things logically rather taking random guesses at problems
Thanks
Paul
Blitz, so its possible that the block of 8 are linked internally then?, do you know the breakdown of the internal links to save me breaking it open, it looks to be in very good condition along with the connectors, im more interested in trying to understand my electrical circuit so i can check things logically rather taking random guesses at problems
Thanks
Paul
Not sure about the busbars running full length as i measured 12v on the first 4 of each side to give a block of eight, but 0v on the others, i will check again tonight while its still light and see if i can open the connector to see, it just looked like a sealed item, if they are spade connectors then i guess i can just pull the cables out?
I meant that the cable / connector area looked in good non corroded condition, i would definitely have a problem if the plastic case was corroded
I do have some electrical experience, but a lack of a diagram and some circuits being different to what some people consider standard pratice is rather challenging
Paul
I meant that the cable / connector area looked in good non corroded condition, i would definitely have a problem if the plastic case was corroded
I do have some electrical experience, but a lack of a diagram and some circuits being different to what some people consider standard pratice is rather challenging
Paul
Hi dogbucket
Any chance of a oicture showing where you found these resistors, i found a 3.9k one near the ECU but couldnt find anything near the coil
I also tried to open up my blue connector to see whats inside, but i dont see any joint to prise open, using a meter the internals are not very uniform, some were grouped together x 4, some x5, and 1 on its own
Thanks
Paul
Any chance of a oicture showing where you found these resistors, i found a 3.9k one near the ECU but couldnt find anything near the coil
I also tried to open up my blue connector to see whats inside, but i dont see any joint to prise open, using a meter the internals are not very uniform, some were grouped together x 4, some x5, and 1 on its own
Thanks
Paul
Hi Steve, what year is yours?, it sounds similar colours to mine, but obviously not the same😀, the ones I was most interested in was the 12v to the pump relay coil, I believe this this is the 3 x white / green group, although my fourth one was white, I get 12v on this group only after resetting the alarm and turning the ignition on, so I assume the feed is from the alarm, but it's difficult to track when you have 4 cables suddenly grouped together and all the same size and colour, I assume only one is the feed and the others supply other components.
Blitz, I was interested in your comment about the resistor and amp signals, my Rev counter still registers so I guess my amp and coil are getting the signal so I will try to find the resistor and check its connections, you mentioned that if I loose this signal the Rover Gauge Rev counter will stop, I have the RG but no experience, can I record the rpm display? Do I just press the "start log" button before I start?
Thanks
Paul
Blitz, I was interested in your comment about the resistor and amp signals, my Rev counter still registers so I guess my amp and coil are getting the signal so I will try to find the resistor and check its connections, you mentioned that if I loose this signal the Rover Gauge Rev counter will stop, I have the RG but no experience, can I record the rpm display? Do I just press the "start log" button before I start?
Thanks
Paul
I checked my blue connector again today, surprise surprise its different to yours, i seem to have 2 blocks of 4 x 12v and the rest appear to be earths, no 5v found anywhere.
I also managed to find the resistors, disconnecting one stops the engine, the other one stops the rev counter displaying but the engine still runs.
I haven't seen any problem with my light connected to the pump relay coil positive, so now i have moved to the negative side, so now the light should stay off unless the earth line is broken by the ECU, a light flashing on should be easier to detect anyway.
My second light is still on the coil, but that appears to be showing me very little as if the coil feeds the rev counter and i know the rev counter still works during a cutout or hiccup, any thoughts on where else to connect it while its still in the engine bay?
Paul
I also managed to find the resistors, disconnecting one stops the engine, the other one stops the rev counter displaying but the engine still runs.
I haven't seen any problem with my light connected to the pump relay coil positive, so now i have moved to the negative side, so now the light should stay off unless the earth line is broken by the ECU, a light flashing on should be easier to detect anyway.
My second light is still on the coil, but that appears to be showing me very little as if the coil feeds the rev counter and i know the rev counter still works during a cutout or hiccup, any thoughts on where else to connect it while its still in the engine bay?
Paul
Steve_D said:
My loopback connector is Two gangs of 4 and two gangs of 6.
Gang 1 4x Brown/orange = Output from main efi r3elay
gang 2 5x Red/Black + (one position not used) = Supply out from ECU P25 which I believe is +5v for TPS, MAF, temp sensors
Gang 3 3x White/green + 1x Black = Fuse 12 connects to ECU, fuel relay P86. etc
Gang 4 3x Black/Slate + 2x Black + (one position not used) + earth at timing cover.
Gang 1 4x Brown/orange = Output from main efi r3elay
gang 2 5x Red/Black + (one position not used) = Supply out from ECU P25 which I believe is +5v for TPS, MAF, temp sensors
Gang 3 3x White/green + 1x Black = Fuse 12 connects to ECU, fuel relay P86. etc
Gang 4 3x Black/Slate + 2x Black + (one position not used) + earth at timing cover.
Hi Steve
I found my resistors, they looked exactly the same as the picture from Dogbucket higher up in the thread, fixed to other cables and hoses next to the alternator, from memory there are 2 sets of cables to the coil, i guess one set is the supply, but one of the other cables. white / black i think then fed straight into both resistors, around 6.4k, as mentioned above one stopped my rev counter working, the other cut the engine immediately, from info above that's probably from cutting the pump.
How did you manage to trace the cable back to pin 39?, that's where i am struggling, no drawing and too many cables the same colour
Paul
I found my resistors, they looked exactly the same as the picture from Dogbucket higher up in the thread, fixed to other cables and hoses next to the alternator, from memory there are 2 sets of cables to the coil, i guess one set is the supply, but one of the other cables. white / black i think then fed straight into both resistors, around 6.4k, as mentioned above one stopped my rev counter working, the other cut the engine immediately, from info above that's probably from cutting the pump.
How did you manage to trace the cable back to pin 39?, that's where i am struggling, no drawing and too many cables the same colour
Paul
Does this help at all, i just found it on the net.
"Bottom Row" - pins 1 to 13 (they're numbered from left to right as shown in the photo)
1 Red/Green Idle bypass valve - circuit 1
2 Brown/Orange Power feed to the fuel injection main relay
3 Yellow Throttle position sensor output/reference - see also 20 and 25
4 Black Oxygen sensors (ground) and to the relay that powers their heater coils
5 Grey/Black Tune resistor (through VIN LA451517 only)
6 Yellow Road speed input
7 Green/Blue Coolant temperature sensor (input) - see also 25
8 Purple/Yellow Windshield defroster input, if fitted
9 White/Light Green Diagnostic connector output
10 Black/Yellow "Check Engine" lamp
11 Yellow/White Right bank of injectors - cylinders 2, 4, 6 and 8
12 Blue/Red Main relay "request"
13 Yellow/Blue Left bank of injectors - cylinders 1, 3, 5 and 7
"Middle Row" - pins 14 to 27 (they're numbered from right to left as shown in the photo)
14 Black Ground
15 Brown "Battery" supply
16 Blue/Purple Fuel pump relay "request"
17 Grey/Yellow Purge control valve output
18 White/Pink Diagnostic connector output
19 White/Grey "Ignition" supply
20 Red Throttle position sensor (input) - see also 3 and 25
21 Yellow/Black Air conditioning thermostat input, if fitted
22 Blue/Red Air flow sensor (input) - see also 25
23 Blue Signal from the LH oxygen sensor
24 Blue Signal from the RH oxygen sensor
25 Red/Black Ground side of coolant, fuel, airflow & throttle-position sensors
26 Green/White Idle bypass valve - circuit 1
27 Black/Grey Ground
"Top Row" - pins 28 to 40 (they're numbered from left to right as shown in the photo)
28 Blue/Grey Idle bypass valve - circuit 2
29 Orange Idle bypass valve - circuit 2
30 Black Fault display data
31 Black/Green Diagnostic connector "request" input
32 Grey/White Fuel temperature sensor (input) - see also 25
33 Black/Grey Air conditioning compressor clutch relay, if fitted
34 Orange/Black Transmission gear switch signal
35 Blue/Green Air flow sensor (input) - see also 25
36 Black/Green Air conditioning condenser fan output, if fitted
37 (Not Used)
38 Brown/Black Fault display data
39 White/Black Engine speed signal cable (harness includes 6.8k ohm resistor)
40 Black Ground
Note:
1. Where two colors are given, the first is the basic color and the second is a "stripe" or "tracer" color.
2. Pins 4, 23, 24, 30, and 31 were NOT USED on vehicles that weren't equipped with catalytic converters.
"Bottom Row" - pins 1 to 13 (they're numbered from left to right as shown in the photo)
1 Red/Green Idle bypass valve - circuit 1
2 Brown/Orange Power feed to the fuel injection main relay
3 Yellow Throttle position sensor output/reference - see also 20 and 25
4 Black Oxygen sensors (ground) and to the relay that powers their heater coils
5 Grey/Black Tune resistor (through VIN LA451517 only)
6 Yellow Road speed input
7 Green/Blue Coolant temperature sensor (input) - see also 25
8 Purple/Yellow Windshield defroster input, if fitted
9 White/Light Green Diagnostic connector output
10 Black/Yellow "Check Engine" lamp
11 Yellow/White Right bank of injectors - cylinders 2, 4, 6 and 8
12 Blue/Red Main relay "request"
13 Yellow/Blue Left bank of injectors - cylinders 1, 3, 5 and 7
"Middle Row" - pins 14 to 27 (they're numbered from right to left as shown in the photo)
14 Black Ground
15 Brown "Battery" supply
16 Blue/Purple Fuel pump relay "request"
17 Grey/Yellow Purge control valve output
18 White/Pink Diagnostic connector output
19 White/Grey "Ignition" supply
20 Red Throttle position sensor (input) - see also 3 and 25
21 Yellow/Black Air conditioning thermostat input, if fitted
22 Blue/Red Air flow sensor (input) - see also 25
23 Blue Signal from the LH oxygen sensor
24 Blue Signal from the RH oxygen sensor
25 Red/Black Ground side of coolant, fuel, airflow & throttle-position sensors
26 Green/White Idle bypass valve - circuit 1
27 Black/Grey Ground
"Top Row" - pins 28 to 40 (they're numbered from left to right as shown in the photo)
28 Blue/Grey Idle bypass valve - circuit 2
29 Orange Idle bypass valve - circuit 2
30 Black Fault display data
31 Black/Green Diagnostic connector "request" input
32 Grey/White Fuel temperature sensor (input) - see also 25
33 Black/Grey Air conditioning compressor clutch relay, if fitted
34 Orange/Black Transmission gear switch signal
35 Blue/Green Air flow sensor (input) - see also 25
36 Black/Green Air conditioning condenser fan output, if fitted
37 (Not Used)
38 Brown/Black Fault display data
39 White/Black Engine speed signal cable (harness includes 6.8k ohm resistor)
40 Black Ground
Note:
1. Where two colors are given, the first is the basic color and the second is a "stripe" or "tracer" color.
2. Pins 4, 23, 24, 30, and 31 were NOT USED on vehicles that weren't equipped with catalytic converters.
That looks fun
, i guess youre not quite ready for a test run thenGassing Station | Chimaera | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff