Oil pressure relief valve

Oil pressure relief valve

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caduceus

Original Poster:

6,071 posts

267 months

Sunday 25th September 2016
quotequote all
Whilst finishing off the heads yesterday I thought I'd renew some bits on the oil pressure side of things, just as a matter of course.
Looking at the spring, there was no way of knowing whether it's weakened or not. So I'll just get a new one. But sourcing one seems to be hens teeth'sville. None at Racetech, none at TVR parts, none at ACS-pro.... Where can I get one? Wish I hadn't bothered the bloody thing. That'll learn me rolleyes

As far as what was inside the bore, I'm not sure what it is inside, but none of it moves or seems to want to come out. So I left it. But is this assembly supposed to be serviceable? Strippable?

Any info greatly appreciated
Cad

caduceus

Original Poster:

6,071 posts

267 months

Monday 26th September 2016
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Thanks for the replies chaps, and the offer Chris.
Just had another look at the timing cover, and the piston does actually move up and down freely. So no issue there.

Think I'll buy the uprated one from V8. Thanks for the tip.
There is a bolt next to the relief valve bit, but it dowsn't appear to do much. Just looks like a drain hole confused

caduceus

Original Poster:

6,071 posts

267 months

Monday 26th September 2016
quotequote all
Sardonicus said:
thought V8D just pack the PRV end cap Dave on the 2 V8D engines I have seen one very recent 5.0 build it just had a thick washer 3/4mm approx to up the pressure which is fine of course and works wink always was on the Fords etc worked on my rebuild 65psi hot at anything over 2 k rpm got it right 1st try fortunately as its a sod to assemble in situ, just to add this is with restrictors in the cyl heads oil gallery to reduce rocker gear oiling and put it where its needed most


Edited by Sardonicus on Monday 26th September 14:37
Apparently they have a smaller spring that sits inside the original, bit like double valve springs. They're sending one in the post smile

caduceus

Original Poster:

6,071 posts

267 months

Monday 26th September 2016
quotequote all
ChimpOnGas said:
So I fitted what looks like a superior quality American made one from Isspro, leak gone I'll see how many years I get out of this one smile





Edited by ChimpOnGas on Monday 26th September 18:52
Do you have a link for that please COG?

caduceus

Original Poster:

6,071 posts

267 months

Tuesday 27th September 2016
quotequote all
Excellent. Thanks Dave.
I just want this almost rebuilt engine (finally putting the heads back on today!) to get the best start in life it can, so the cam beds in nicely and all the reworked surfaces stay that way. So whatever I need to do for a healthy oil system, I'll do. I do understand the Chinese Vs decent sentiment re the sender, but on the balance of things, I'll go for the best I can get and hope it lasts.
Thanks for the Purple Ronnie filter smile Seeing as the cam is going to be broken in and rings bedded in, etc, I'll use one for the bedding in period for optimum filtration.

What do people think of Carlube Triple R 10W-40 Semi Synthetic? It was suggested to me as a great oil for our RV8's. Anyone have any experience with using it? Or maybe this question should be in another thread scratchchin

caduceus

Original Poster:

6,071 posts

267 months

Tuesday 27th September 2016
quotequote all
ChimpOnGas said:
I have responded to your PM Ged.

Dave.
Thanks, will have a read in a bit.

caduceus

Original Poster:

6,071 posts

267 months

Tuesday 27th September 2016
quotequote all
Sardonicus said:
would use mineral oil for the 1st few thousand miles to be honest 15/40 20/50 etc
Sorry, I should have been more specific. I meant as a day to day oil. I already have the 'run in' oil from CompCams, plus an additive. Will run mineral in the first service after the cam break in. Then a permanent oil after that. hence the question about CarLube Triple R.....