Wiring Diagram for 1995 Chimaera

[smb]

Guys, does anyone have a wiring diagram for a 95 Chimaera please, I've check the one in Steve's bible but the area around the central locking relay etc is wrong as it's for an earlier car. Has anyone ever managed to get a diagram?

thanks

[smb]

I rang TVR direct, just got the take it to your dealer line.

[smb]

RCA said:

Whats the problem???

Well my central locking problems came back again (see Central Locking Problems on chimeara thread), very intermittent, would cost a fortune to diagnose at a dealer. Definately not the door pads, last item to check is the alarm to central locking interface, try to disconnect the unlock wire in case the relay in the alarm is triggering, can't find which wire it is and I can't remove a complete electric plug as the car needs to move to exhibit the problem.
Edited to add - or does anyone have a wiring diagram for a Foxguard F1-11 Alarm?

>> Edited by smb on Thursday 31st July 19:47

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k4trv said:

So the question that might be posed to TVR is: Does TVR offer refurbished '93-'95-ish central Locking Interface Boxes (16 pin Boxes)??? Or, can we early TVRs fit the later smaller CL unit ?? If so, how ?? Can anyone out there (Trade or otherwise) help ??? Trev McM

Unfortunately not for me, my central locking unit is a 6 pin, fairly standard easy to get, After all my investigation I think it's probably more likely a false trigger from the alarm, Ribol, thanks for your advice, sounds like you've been there before. Any chance you could mail me offline if you have more details of the connections on the alarm. You're right there are 2 main plugs 10 and 14 way, do you have any details on how the 6 wires control central locking?, thanks
Steve

[smb]

OK, the latest in this saga.

Thanks to T4TRV and ribol, I managed to bypass the alarm and take the car for a drive, and.......

the problem is still there, damn! Given I've either disconnected or replaced ( CDL- Central door locking relay) every part now including the door solenoids, I have top suspect either an intermittent earth fault or power fault. Earth would surprise me as everything else works fine, does anyone know which earth point the CDL connects to ?

Next step is direct connections to the battery, (probably worth adding these anyhow)?

thanks

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ribol said:

Cannot remember how this little problem started but I seem to remember that the C/L pulsed as you drove along, is that right? I cannot remember from the original post whether it locked or unlocked the car when driving along, which is it? Ivan

If the car is locked or unlocked, I get the relays tripping and the solenoids chattering, just like the usual door switch problem ( except it isn't).

Sometimes when I come to park and lock the car it won't lock either, have to try 2-3 times before it will.

[SMB]

ribol said:

SMB – you need to cut down on some variables to help speed up your progress with this problem. Which of the following is what actually happens? You get in car, lock doors from inside and drive off down the road until problem starts, when it happens it unlocks the doors and keeps trying to do so. You get in car, don’t lock the doors from the inside, drive down the road, when problem starts, it locks the doors and keeps trying to do so. You drive down the road, problem starts and does not either lock or unlock the doors. Ivan

Ok, here we go.

in all below cases assume we are in car.

1 - lock doors with central door knob, drive down road - after 5 mins relays starts chattering. Door unlock and remain unlocked, but chattering continues

2- don't lock doors, drive down road , chattering starts, remains unlocked, chattering continues

Additional info from today

OK Car now refuses to lock on alarm, it tries to lock then immediately unlocks - just like if you left a door open, and interior light( which I normally have in the off position, but for testing turned on today) tells be that the trigger circuit for unlock ( doors open) is on. Now I know it's not the door switches, I've had both removed. The only other unlock trigger I'm aware of is the alarm?, any other thoughts?

thanks

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ribol said:

Getting interesting this! When you say relays start chattering, do you mean the relays or do you mean the C/L motors? I assume it’s the motors we are talking about.

MOst common chattering is from the relays, and then occasionally from the motors. As if thee length of connection time varies, quick contacts just lead to chattering of the relay contacts, longer connections activate the motors.

ribol said:

So, as I understand it your exact problem is that regardless of whether the car is locked or unlocked at some point after driving around a bit the C/L unlocks itself and continues to keep trying to do so, is that correct?

YES

ribol said:

When you say you now cannot lock the car on alarm, have you physically checked that BOTH doors are unlocked or assumed so?

I'm getting fitter, walked around the car 30-40 times this weekend checking both doors. Both remain unlocked.

Except at one point over the weekend for 5 mins the car would lock, and not unlock, luckily had left the window down and could reach in to unlock from the inside. Hasn't done this again since.

ribol said:

If there was a mechanical fault on one lock (e.g. striker not 100% in, stiff release cable on one door etc.) it could cause this but the other door would still be locked as it should – worth checking.

Both remain unlocked, but this is a new trail for me as the motors include switches I believe,( one of which connects to the unlock trigger) is it possible that the lock is stiff and the motor can't quite lock the mechanism and there fore it unlocks?, Not sure how this could cause the chattering though?

ribol said:

I cannot think of anything that would trigger an electrical unlock other than the alarm, faulty wiring or the C/L relay. There are not too many things that can cause this. I think at some point you disconnected the trigger wires from the alarm, hopefully you will have done this from the C/L relay and not the alarm unit?

All the unlock trigger wires ( doors, alarm etc) go into one spade connector on the CDL relay. Easiest way to test was remove connection from the alarm and bridge the immobilser circuit so the car would go.

ribol said:

I also seem to remember you replaced the C/L relay, is that right?

YES, same symptoms before and after.

ribol said:

BTW, for the record, did you establish whether it was positive or negative pulse?

The trigger wire connects to earth to activate unlock, so I guess you mean negative pulse.

Thanks for your advice so far,

[smb]

k4trv said:

[Steve, Have you discounted the trigger from the Micro-wave device in transmission tunnel ?? I haven't seen a mention of that ?? Trev McM

having disconnected the alarm, I can't see that causing any trigger, unless TVR wired it direct

[smb]

ribol said:

If the relays are chattering more often than the motors then that would suggest a relay that is tripping but not strong enough for it to operate the motors or their control relay every time. This could be caused by a faulty relay or wiring to it. I once had a problem similar to yours on a car (non TVR), it happened from time to time and drove me mad. Most alarms units have both a relay to lock and another to unlock inside. The problem I had was one of the relays had a broken spring and when the car went over the right sort of bump the relay contacts made contact and pulsed central locking – try finding that when it happens when it wants to! I am not sure of what route the alarm pulse wires take on their way to the C/L relay. It is worth remembering that when dealing with a negative pulse you have the added problem that if any part of the unlock pulse wire goes to earth anywhere (even on a plastic car!) it will trip the central locking. By not disconnecting the pulse wire at the C/L relay end you could have left a wire connected earthing away whenever it feels like it creating your problem. It may seem brutal but I would just cut the pulse wire at the C/L relay end and see what happens. If it makes no difference you can put a spade on it, put it back and leave the other wire off and see what happens next. This will point you in the right direction. If it turns out to be the alarm unit, that can be sorted. Ivan

I choose to do that as there were 5 wires connected to the one terminal in the multiplug if I remember. They were all on one spade connection hence the difficulty of disconnecting one wire at a time. I'm going to check the door solenoids and if not it will have to be a wire at a time, probably take the opportunity to wire into a block before the relay.

Edited to add - presumably the 5 trigger wires are

1 - alarm
2- left door switch
3- right door switch
does this make sense?


>> Edited by smb on Monday 4th August 19.12 to say it is 3 wire not 5 , sorry.

One interesting point, if i press the anti-hi jack button in the car once quickly it locks, if i keep it pressed down , it then unlocks.

Also this evening the car locked on pressing the alarm button, but did so in a strange manner (ie solenoids pull lock lever down, then up, then down again and stay down. Once locked like this then pressing the button again to unlock doesn't trigger an unlock.

>> Edited by smb on Monday 4th August 19:17

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david beer said:

If you have a five wire door locking solenoid like my Griff, you will notice that the "door unlocked" side of the switch is not used, just the "door locked". I think this means that the alarm does the rest. Also the switch is not actaully to chassis(neg), it appears to be "floating", so if you want to tap into the "door unlocked" circuit, as i wanted to do, it will not give you chassis. Of course as always, my car could be completely different!!

Is this what is meant as changeover?

[smb]

ribol said:

smb said: Edited to add - presumably the 5 trigger wires are 1 - alarm 2- left door switch 3- right door switch does this make sense? >> Edited by smb on Monday 4th August 19.12 to say it is 3 wire not 5 , sorry. Yes, as far as I know there are only the three methods of pulsing the C/L relay. Going back to what I said previously, any of the associated wiring going to earth will cause your problem. That aside, I would cut one wire (starting with alarm wire) at the time from the spade terminal until the problem has gone. I seem to recall you dismissed the door switches a long way back so it cannot be too hard now to find out what is wrong. Ivan

OK, An update, managed to disconnect all 3 trigger wires,
one from the alarm - works ok, not source of the problem
two- from door switches ( both sides) - causes trigger - but it's not the switches themselves
three - doesn't cause trigger but I have no idea where this goes. anyone any ideas?

For now I'just connected the alarm wire, so car is locked and secure, and unlocks ok.