Fitting of Stainless Dash with Pics
Discussion
I decided to replace my cracked old wooden Dash with a nice new shiney Stainless one from Leven in the chequerboard pattern.
The only problem was,do i fit it myself or pay someone for the privilege.I thought that the hardest part would be removing the top of the dash itself and that elusive 3rd bolt.
At the weekend i decided to give it a go myself and heres how it went.
Dont forget to disconnect the battery before you start!
This first pic shows the original dash complete with cracking veneer around the blower switch.
The next one shows the position that i had to get myself in to get access to the 3rd bolt. It was however, very easy to find and undo with my right hand and a 10mm spanner.
The two 10mm nuts on the other side were no problem again and all you have to do is remove the small panel on the passenger side below the dash which is secured by 2 screws.
Once the top of the dash is off you then have access to behind the clocks.
It looks daunting but its not too bad.
Make sure that you remove one clock at a time,labeling it and drawing a sketch of the location of the spade connectors behind it as you go along.
The Dash itself then simply pulls up from 4 slots in the shelf below.
The only tricky part is pulling out the horizontal heater dials as a complete unit and removing the 3 small screws (1 top and 2 bottom) which secure the small unit to the dash itself.
Once the dash is lifted away this is what you are left with.
Replacing this part was straighforward and the only bits that needed re glueing were the 3 warning lights which are between the Speedo and Rev Counter.
The small radio panel was the most difficult bit to replace and indeed was the only part that needed the 4 old fixings to be reused and re glued.
You have to be careful here because they must go back in exactly the same place.
Refitting is a little fiddly with the 2 block connectors behind which hold the warning lights on one end and the hazard warning lights on the other.
Once they are all together again, check that all the bulbs and dials are working correctly then refit the top of the dash.This has to be tilted backwards and the elusive 3rd bolt on the drivers side needs to be located in its hols forst then the other 2 will simply slot back into place.
Reconnect the battery and away you go.
This is what the finished job looks like and im sure that you will agree that it looks superb and well worth the effort.
Edited to say that the Old Dash has found a new home.
>>> Edited by tonyrec on Thursday 9th October 13:43
The only problem was,do i fit it myself or pay someone for the privilege.I thought that the hardest part would be removing the top of the dash itself and that elusive 3rd bolt.
At the weekend i decided to give it a go myself and heres how it went.
Dont forget to disconnect the battery before you start!
This first pic shows the original dash complete with cracking veneer around the blower switch.
The next one shows the position that i had to get myself in to get access to the 3rd bolt. It was however, very easy to find and undo with my right hand and a 10mm spanner.
The two 10mm nuts on the other side were no problem again and all you have to do is remove the small panel on the passenger side below the dash which is secured by 2 screws.
Once the top of the dash is off you then have access to behind the clocks.
It looks daunting but its not too bad.
Make sure that you remove one clock at a time,labeling it and drawing a sketch of the location of the spade connectors behind it as you go along.
The Dash itself then simply pulls up from 4 slots in the shelf below.
The only tricky part is pulling out the horizontal heater dials as a complete unit and removing the 3 small screws (1 top and 2 bottom) which secure the small unit to the dash itself.
Once the dash is lifted away this is what you are left with.
Replacing this part was straighforward and the only bits that needed re glueing were the 3 warning lights which are between the Speedo and Rev Counter.
The small radio panel was the most difficult bit to replace and indeed was the only part that needed the 4 old fixings to be reused and re glued.
You have to be careful here because they must go back in exactly the same place.
Refitting is a little fiddly with the 2 block connectors behind which hold the warning lights on one end and the hazard warning lights on the other.
Once they are all together again, check that all the bulbs and dials are working correctly then refit the top of the dash.This has to be tilted backwards and the elusive 3rd bolt on the drivers side needs to be located in its hols forst then the other 2 will simply slot back into place.
Reconnect the battery and away you go.
This is what the finished job looks like and im sure that you will agree that it looks superb and well worth the effort.
Edited to say that the Old Dash has found a new home.
>>> Edited by tonyrec on Thursday 9th October 13:43
Certainly....
If you get yourself into the position as in my 3rd pic, use your right arm and push it up towards 11 o'clock and you will feel it no problem. Theres nothing else beside it and it points down at an angle (just off horizontal).
You cant simply crouch down and put your arm up because your arm would have to be a metre long to get under the dash itself.
It has a large washer of just over an inch and a very small (10mm) nut in comparison.
The other point to make is that when they are all off, be very careful when removing the Dash itself.
You have to tip and twist the dash from the passenger side and then the elusive one just slides out. Theres not much clearance, be careful or you will make contact with the visible part of the dash.
Easiest way to manhandle it is with 2 people.
Ive probably made it sound hard, its not, just very tricky because you dont want to damage anything.
When i replaced mine, you again have to tilt/twist the passenger side to locate the elusive one back into its hole.
When i did mine it popped back within 30 secs, its that quick.
Hope that ive explained it well enough.
>> Edited by tonyrec on Friday 10th October 13:34
If you get yourself into the position as in my 3rd pic, use your right arm and push it up towards 11 o'clock and you will feel it no problem. Theres nothing else beside it and it points down at an angle (just off horizontal).
You cant simply crouch down and put your arm up because your arm would have to be a metre long to get under the dash itself.
It has a large washer of just over an inch and a very small (10mm) nut in comparison.
The other point to make is that when they are all off, be very careful when removing the Dash itself.
You have to tip and twist the dash from the passenger side and then the elusive one just slides out. Theres not much clearance, be careful or you will make contact with the visible part of the dash.
Easiest way to manhandle it is with 2 people.
Ive probably made it sound hard, its not, just very tricky because you dont want to damage anything.
When i replaced mine, you again have to tilt/twist the passenger side to locate the elusive one back into its hole.
When i did mine it popped back within 30 secs, its that quick.
Hope that ive explained it well enough.
>> Edited by tonyrec on Friday 10th October 13:34
prlane said:
Tony,
What a difference, I am tempted but usually create another three jobs for every one I tackle.
Did you notice whether it is possible to access the alarm when the dash top is removed or is it buried deeper? I have been quoted £75 to strip and refit the dash + any work required to the alarm itself.
Regards Paul
As soon as you get the Dash top off you can see the alarm module, it sits on the exposed shelf.
I had mine removed in Jan when i got the car because the alarm was playing up.
Getting the dash top off is easy, but you have to be careful that the3 bolts dont snag the trim and rip it.
Edited to say that i know the feeling about creating more jobs...i replaced the heater cables whilst i had it all apart.
>> Edited by tonyrec on Monday 13th October 00:00
verysideways said:
Tony,
Thanks, you've just cost me 200 quid as i've gone and ordered my new dash!
VS
Pete,
It wont be hard to fit, just tricky. If i can give any more advice just email me.
One thing that i will say is that the radio panel was the trickiest to fit but not too bad. Just make sure that the 4 fixings are glued back in exactly same place on the new part.
I used a 2 pack glue and left it to fully harden overnight.
PhillWalden said:
Another top tip.. Before putting the Dash top back on ensure the dials are all straight.. I am currently driving around with my speedo slightly skew!
I agree...had to take mine off yesterday to straighten the Speedo.
Luckily, ive been driving around for a week with the top dash loose in case any bulbs etc failed seeing as ive been messing around with them.
Must tighten it up today though.
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