Sebring kit conversion

Sebring kit conversion

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Highspeed125

Original Poster:

32 posts

144 months

Sunday 22nd February 2015
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I've bought a '72 rolling GT shell and logbook after deciding my '75 rubber GT is too far gone. I'll be using my engine/drivetrain complete, interior, tailgate and Britax weathershield roof, but on inspection my wings aren't up to the job. The new shell is fully stripped but rolling, and has part stripped sills showing a good basis, as well as the rest of the chassis being far better than the 75.
Seeing as I need new wings, rear lowers, I have no bumpers or irons, and my initial fund only stretches to having the sills done properly, and my desire to create something a bit different, I wish to go Sebring. B&G do a kit for £510, Bhive similar price, and another moulder sells them directly. The wheels can be funded later on, and I have a garage in which I can fettle one corner at a time. The cost of a kit - and wheels to suit - comes in some way behind the wings and bumpers (as a guide £1000 for fronts, £2-300 for rears, £2-300 for bumpers - against £500 + £375 for 8x15 minilites - tyres additional cost irrespective of choice).
My question is - can anyone recommend any one kit over any other?

Highspeed125

Original Poster:

32 posts

144 months

Monday 23rd February 2015
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v8250 said:
Don't be put off...just be prepared to put many a good hour into getting right. The majority of Sebring panels are more or less thrown on and given a shiny paint job, but underneath they're very poorly fitted. With good planning, the right tools and a reasonable eye you'll be fine...just be patient. You will need a surf form kit to get the three dimensional forms correct, particularly blending the lower rear wings and the rear downward curve from the original rear boot curve to the Sebring valence curve. Buying one of these will save you many, many hours smile

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/331063139415?limghl...

Plus, think through how and where you'll make your mechanical mounting points. I found tank taping the valence to the body, lining this up and then using the inner lip within the boot...drill here and mount with as many high quality rivets as possible, this will give you the upper structure. Then trim the lower side panels and fix with 3no screw+nut fixings, then if necessary fix the lower valence lip. Once fixed, then start the bodywork infill and final profiling.
Thats a very positive response and I am grateful for it! I was a bit worried about exciting the nay sayers, but once I have got the structural work done professionally, the rest of the work will drop to hobby status, as and when. I still have to get the donor car back from storage, so I can strip it all out. Just as an aside, the donor has the collapsible column, is it possible to fit that to an early shell? Reason for asking is I will be using all my '75 rubber bumper drivetrain so the '72 speedo will be way off. I know I can go to speedy cables for a recalibration. It's all a bit of a chinese puzzle, but I dont think there's any point trying to sell the donor shell as it will provide very little for anyone else.

Highspeed125

Original Poster:

32 posts

144 months

Monday 23rd February 2015
quotequote all
The only real carry over from the rubber car will be the interior, drivetrain and sunroof. The rest will be pure chrome bumper spec. At the moment I'm eyeing up a set of 8x15" minilite replicas, £370 on eBay. I'll have to buy tyres I matter what I do.
If my wings were better I'd convert them but as they are I'm sure they'll just go bad again.
And to set a goal, I've decide on Brunswick Green....