Griffith Poor Running
Discussion
Hi All,
My 1992 4.3 Griffith is not well......under acceleration it's smooth, but at constant speed or on the over run it's awful. So much so that when decelerating I now find myself dipping the clutch to avoid the issue. I'm told that this model was never that good in this respect, something that I believe is called drive line shunt, however over time this is becoming increasingly bad.
One garage I took the car to stated it was camshaft wear, my car's done 70k miles, and they said the low oil pressure is probably also indicative of this. If this is the case getting it fixed won't be cheap. Any other potential causes that anyone has had experience of before I take the plunge??
My 1992 4.3 Griffith is not well......under acceleration it's smooth, but at constant speed or on the over run it's awful. So much so that when decelerating I now find myself dipping the clutch to avoid the issue. I'm told that this model was never that good in this respect, something that I believe is called drive line shunt, however over time this is becoming increasingly bad.
One garage I took the car to stated it was camshaft wear, my car's done 70k miles, and they said the low oil pressure is probably also indicative of this. If this is the case getting it fixed won't be cheap. Any other potential causes that anyone has had experience of before I take the plunge??
Hi,
Many thanks for the replies, yes it was the 'specialist' who diagnosed a worn camshaft. However it's not been on a rolling road, and the camshaft itself hasn't actually been inspected.
The problem has gradually got worse over the last year, but I do very few miles so it's probably been in the last say 1500-2500 or so miles.
Agree the low oil pressure is probably first priority though. I've already changed the sender in case that wasn't as it should be.
Just don't want to embark on a huge amount of expenditure if I have to live with the shunting, and because it's got worse gradually I'm struggling to remember how good/bad it used to be......
Many thanks for the replies, yes it was the 'specialist' who diagnosed a worn camshaft. However it's not been on a rolling road, and the camshaft itself hasn't actually been inspected.
The problem has gradually got worse over the last year, but I do very few miles so it's probably been in the last say 1500-2500 or so miles.
Agree the low oil pressure is probably first priority though. I've already changed the sender in case that wasn't as it should be.
Just don't want to embark on a huge amount of expenditure if I have to live with the shunting, and because it's got worse gradually I'm struggling to remember how good/bad it used to be......
Hi,
Sorry for delayed response been on holiday and away from the internet......
Will definitely check the driveshafts and start looking at ignition and fuelling with some measurements on the AFM next week when I have the chance. Never heard of a Rover Gauge so will get googling on this, and thinking about it the air inlet hose from the air flow meter is probably past its best so may not be helping matters.
Oil pressure: probably 5-10 psi at idle (Just below 1000rpm) and no more than 35 psi at 3000-3500rpm.
And great to hear drive line shunt is not necessarily something that has to be lived with http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/imgs/2.gif
Sorry for delayed response been on holiday and away from the internet......
Will definitely check the driveshafts and start looking at ignition and fuelling with some measurements on the AFM next week when I have the chance. Never heard of a Rover Gauge so will get googling on this, and thinking about it the air inlet hose from the air flow meter is probably past its best so may not be helping matters.
Oil pressure: probably 5-10 psi at idle (Just below 1000rpm) and no more than 35 psi at 3000-3500rpm.
And great to hear drive line shunt is not necessarily something that has to be lived with http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/imgs/2.gif
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