OZ split rim bolts
Discussion
30 on each wheel.
Heres when I refurbed mine a few years ago if you've not seen it already.
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
Best of luck with it
Heres when I refurbed mine a few years ago if you've not seen it already.
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
Best of luck with it
Russell Mc said:
30 on each wheel.
Heres when I refurbed mine a few years ago if you've not seen it already.
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
Best of luck with it
RussHeres when I refurbed mine a few years ago if you've not seen it already.
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
Best of luck with it
Your wheels still look fantastic.
Russell Mc said:
M7 x 24mm is what you want.
Remember your original bolts will have a 10 point head rather than the normal 12. I changed mine to 12 point when I rebuilt my wheels
Hi Ian, just to add my 2 penneth again, be mindful that you should be careful using stainless fixings in hi-tensile/stress applications. I believe the originals of these were chromed steel? What you would look for is M7 x 24 flanged torx head, M7 though is an oddball size! Regards, PeteRemember your original bolts will have a 10 point head rather than the normal 12. I changed mine to 12 point when I rebuilt my wheels
Pete the bolts aren't tight not load bearing. They just hold the rim onto the already snug fitting shoulder of the wheel. Think I did mine up to 22-24 ft/lbs. I would add though buy specific split rim bolts as they are designed for the job and are easily available.
Edited by Russell Mc on Monday 20th October 20:59
citizen smith said:
Hello Andy,
Another solution is to get your bolts re-chromed/plated at somewhere like DERBY PLATING. Not to expensive, but you maintain the original bolts.
I presume split rims have nyloc nuts? If so I'd definitely replace these, having had a magnesium alloy split rim (on a 280bhp Caterham) collapse on me half way through Craner curves at Donnington I'd suggest this is not an area to scrimp on!Another solution is to get your bolts re-chromed/plated at somewhere like DERBY PLATING. Not to expensive, but you maintain the original bolts.
The reason it collapse (apart from trying to deal with 280bhp in a 515kg car running slicks!!) was because the bolts were too short and the nylocs didn't have enough thread to get hold of, the previous owner had likely replaced them with a different spec from standard.
MikeE said:
I presume split rims have nyloc nuts? If so I'd definitely replace these, having had a magnesium alloy split rim (on a 280bhp Caterham) collapse on me half way through Craner curves at Donnington I'd suggest this is not an area to scrimp on!
The reason it collapse (apart from trying to deal with 280bhp in a 515kg car running slicks!!) was because the bolts were too short and the nylocs didn't have enough thread to get hold of, the previous owner had likely replaced them with a different spec from standard.
A very good point made by Mike. The number of times I have seen installations that use nyloc locking nuts and the bolt does not protrude through the end! If there are no threads protruding it is likely that the locking action will not be effective, hence loosening of nut with use! I would be more inclined to use plain nuts and locking washers on a job like this! PeteThe reason it collapse (apart from trying to deal with 280bhp in a 515kg car running slicks!!) was because the bolts were too short and the nylocs didn't have enough thread to get hold of, the previous owner had likely replaced them with a different spec from standard.
The original O.Z. bolts are 12.9 rating,clearly marked on the bolt head flange. I chose to have my originals plated as I figured that they were specified by O.Z. for good reason. Most aftermarket available (Titanium excepted) I could find at the time were rated at 8.8. Google 12.9 bolt rating and it explains all the diferences.
Gassing Station | Griffith | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff