keeping 4.3 engine cool

[Count Vampirski]

always had car running at upper limit, on edge of entering red when slow moving in summer.

Only has original single large one step Spal (working fine) - bought an additional one and stored away somewhere yrs ago..

I would prefer to add additional water volume and natural cooling (regulated by stat) than have annoying fan cutting in most of the time - has anyone added an additional small radiator in series (from a compact car or competition catalogue) and simply added it next to the fan - seems a far more appealing solution than whirring fans (and effect on engine idling as compensation kicks in) - alternatively are inexpensive more efficient rad replacements now available? - mine is in mint condition and a shame to have to expensively replace

would love engine to run at 90 not nr 100 deg ! - Having to run with heater on in summer traffic is no fun!

[Count Vampirski]

thanks guys - does changing stat involve any bleeding in that position, if so how?

how can i find out what the 2 values are for sure and where to get the right one?

my fan bearing screeches sometimes when starting up - presumably a little rust from lack of use

The infra gun is presumably a pro tool? or can one be bought inexpensively?

[Count Vampirski]

wow, who would have thought - shall have to get one of those!

Thinkin about it, the thermo wont affect the top end temp unless stuck partially closed - I imagine everything is original as i have owned car since 3k miles - with stat position, will i need to bleed, if so how?
i propose removing stat entirely and then using new gun to record temp compared to dash gauge

under bonnet temps do seem insane though - and she did boil once years ago

really would like her to run around 90 without need of fan in all but worst summer traffic jams

[Count Vampirski]

having lubed the pistons, started my babe

despite heater end heater fan set to max, temp grew to edge of red before Otter woke up, then cycled with fan on and off just under red (heater still on and bonnet wide open)

where do you get low opening Otter from?

Any favourite heat gun with laser and probe?

Yes v old antifreeze now, but car has always behaved like this - rad looks like new, no leaks - heater running hot

[Count Vampirski]

i am assuming it is at bottom of header tank cylinder on 4.3? - any idea what the thread dia / pitch is as i shall try and slide new one straight into place with no regard for any potential bleeding (being the bottom of tank and engine that could be a concern? (even though that is what tank is designed to remove (at top)

I imagine an overide switch simply needs to bridge these two wires and that they are low current relay trigger wires?

[Count Vampirski]

i quite favour removal of stat as I dont drive in cold conditions and would always drive v sympathetically until fully warm - this would at least eliminate that - the lower temp Otter is clearly helpful, though I prefer natural cooling - I have an Alfa GTV that never uses its fan and happy to sit around 85 deg (50 in winter with no stat!)

I may remove stat and fit lower Otter to at least help (and of course take heat readings before and after changes as necessary - personally I would have liked a larger radiator with all that trapped underbonnet heat

[Count Vampirski]

mk1 - good idea! - wasnt familiar with product - i have dropped them a line as i cannot see a temp adjustment control for cab - i fear that the adjustment is on their Otter with only a garish overide switch

Using this to drive an aux fan and set at low temp with original fan playin catch up at higher temp must surely work

I find that, like aircon (not fitted) the engine idle stabiliser seems to cut in with original fan and the lazy offbeat idle is replaced with a character free slightly higher idle - i prefer to avoid that loss of character if possible

[Count Vampirski]

all great stuff...will read and digest shortly - what do i disconnect to avoid the 'idling up'when factory single Spal cuts in - would like to have the choice..cant see fan current putting too much drag on the alternator

Interesting that you agree that an 80s C is kinder to the engine efficiency - I would v much like mine running at that than peaking at what appears to be well into nineties as fan cycles

[Count Vampirski]

....the GTV has a glass bonnet, but i follow your logic

[Count Vampirski]

wow... I am humbled by your energy, generosity of spirit and diligence ...thx

Whilst it sinks in and later i check out links, i would just mention that it was the fan that squealed due to being too long laid up - now seems ok - yes belt could do with replacing as i have run out of tensioning range and it is too loose

I shall definitely need your expert guidance on how to effect series / parallel mod - something i would have managed in my sleep when younger, but following illness find all a bit heavy going - If i have definitive instructions, I can definitely do the wiring mods - finding and mounting the aux fan, ....

[Count Vampirski]

hi Pete will get one of the mice to check it out

all is in mint condition down there - the existing fan appears to have clips or similar top and bottom - may be mount flanges into which bolted? - however being singular it is perhaps larger fan and mounted just off centre, with no room for second fan without first moving original one - my new fan if i can find it is a little smaller

[Count Vampirski]

Count Vampirski said:
thanks guys - does changing stat involve any bleeding in that position, if so how?

No, When I change my fan thermostat switch I would have the new one ready in one hand and swap them over so quickly I would only loose minimal coolant that just requires a small top up.

Sorry for any confusion - I was referring to the traditional main water thermostat on top of the engine

[Count Vampirski]

..found ideal 'portcullis' stainless coarse air filter sheet to keep mice out (unless they are related to Jaws!)

http://www.inoxia.co.uk/catalogue/mesh/sheets/fly-...