Diary of My Griff
Discussion
So, there I was enjoying my Griff at the end of last year. It's a pre-serp 500:
I'd got it back from a full respray earlier in the year and had treated myself to a new set of wheels & tyres as well. All was well and good. Then it happened. One day while out driving it suddenly lost all oil pressure. By the time I noticed and then got it turned off I feared serious damage had been done to the engine.
I've known Graham Nash (ex of NCK/TVR Power) for a while so my first call was to him. We jointly diagnosed (correctly as it turned out) that the oil pressure relief valve had stuck open. I ordered a new plunger & spring etc. from Rimmers and set about fitting them in the hope that I could start it again once oil pressure re-instated and see what damage had been done. However, the plunger refused to come out and then I snapped one of the oil pump housing bolts trying to get the whole unit off. Patience exhausted I arranged with Graham that he'd come and pick it up and take it away to sort it out.
This is when things really started to develop. I'd seen Graham's turbo-Chim that he'd restored and knew how good it looked. Man-maths brain fully engaged I then got to thinking that it really wasn't that much more work to take the body off and do things properly. Really! I'd also convinced myself that it was going to be off the road for the winter anyway so I might as well go all in.
Plans agreed, I started to get pics back:
Keep tuned for the next instalment!
I'd got it back from a full respray earlier in the year and had treated myself to a new set of wheels & tyres as well. All was well and good. Then it happened. One day while out driving it suddenly lost all oil pressure. By the time I noticed and then got it turned off I feared serious damage had been done to the engine.
I've known Graham Nash (ex of NCK/TVR Power) for a while so my first call was to him. We jointly diagnosed (correctly as it turned out) that the oil pressure relief valve had stuck open. I ordered a new plunger & spring etc. from Rimmers and set about fitting them in the hope that I could start it again once oil pressure re-instated and see what damage had been done. However, the plunger refused to come out and then I snapped one of the oil pump housing bolts trying to get the whole unit off. Patience exhausted I arranged with Graham that he'd come and pick it up and take it away to sort it out.
This is when things really started to develop. I'd seen Graham's turbo-Chim that he'd restored and knew how good it looked. Man-maths brain fully engaged I then got to thinking that it really wasn't that much more work to take the body off and do things properly. Really! I'd also convinced myself that it was going to be off the road for the winter anyway so I might as well go all in.
Plans agreed, I started to get pics back:
Keep tuned for the next instalment!
Cheers all. They're Lenso BSX wheels in 16/17 inch combo with offsets and rolling radius all chosen to match the original Estorils. I would have liked some OZ or Gotti wheels but a) I couldn't find any, and b) I expect they'd have been a kings ransom if I had.
And yes, it was delivered by HHC on 1 September 1994. Yours and mine were probably in the dealers at the same time!
And yes, it was delivered by HHC on 1 September 1994. Yours and mine were probably in the dealers at the same time!
Edited by simonwedge on Wednesday 22 June 20:32
Stever said:
Ah splendid thank you I will be pricing these up as I need new tyres and quite like the look of the Bridgstone Adrenalin RE002 but they don't make a 16" in 245/45 which I currently have on my standard estorils 
If it helps I got the wheels from http://www.rimstyle.com/alloywheels/wheel/index.ht... - The other suppliers I talked to didn't all said it was too difficult once I said I wanted 2 pairs of different size wheels rather than the standard set of 4 the same!Tyrewise I'm running Michelin Pilot Sports all round. These are one of the few that I could get the same pattern in both sizes. I got mine from https://www.tyreleader.co.uk/ but I think Rimstyle also do them as a package with the wheels.
So, the root cause of all this work was a failed pre-serp oil pressure relief valve. Therefore when Graham said he could convert the engine to a serp front end at the same time as rebuilding the engine it didn't take long to say 'Yes please!'.
The main obstacle, I was told, would be finding the right bits of hardware (at a reasonable price). In particular, finding an original spec serp front cover, and the castings that go with it would apparently be hard work. Full of enthusiasm I accepted the challenge of hunting these down.
My first bit of luck was remembering that a friend of mine and I had taken a knackered engine out of a Chim about 2 years ago (before fitting a used replacement). That original engine was still sitting in his back garden as he had an unfulfilled plan to turn it into a coffee table.
This engine therefore yielded it's front cover inc. water & oil pumps, bottom pulley and tensioner casting etc. Result! The key part now missing was the idler wheel and casting that sits top right looking at the engine. After fruitless searching of ebay and breakers yards I posted up on this forum with a plea for help.
Another result! An email landed from Peter (Phazed) with a teaser picture of the elusive part:
A deal was agreed and it was mine.
Other parts reqd for the conversion were found online, bought new or found in Graham's parts stash. All together these inclued both water tanks, coolant hoses, distributer, alternator and metal engine water pipes. All incoming parts were variously blasted, painted and/or polished.
In terms of the engine rebuild itself the damage caused by the lack of oil pressure was found to be not too bad. Regardless the crank, rods, flywheel and clutch cover were balanced and the engine rebuilt with new bearings, cam (Taraka), lifters, seals, rings etc. The block and heads were chemical dipped and the bores honed.
After much work it was indeed something to behold. More than that I was especially pleased that it had been rebuilt by someone so close to the original development work for this engine.
Chassis update next time.
The main obstacle, I was told, would be finding the right bits of hardware (at a reasonable price). In particular, finding an original spec serp front cover, and the castings that go with it would apparently be hard work. Full of enthusiasm I accepted the challenge of hunting these down.
My first bit of luck was remembering that a friend of mine and I had taken a knackered engine out of a Chim about 2 years ago (before fitting a used replacement). That original engine was still sitting in his back garden as he had an unfulfilled plan to turn it into a coffee table.
This engine therefore yielded it's front cover inc. water & oil pumps, bottom pulley and tensioner casting etc. Result! The key part now missing was the idler wheel and casting that sits top right looking at the engine. After fruitless searching of ebay and breakers yards I posted up on this forum with a plea for help.
Another result! An email landed from Peter (Phazed) with a teaser picture of the elusive part:
A deal was agreed and it was mine.
Other parts reqd for the conversion were found online, bought new or found in Graham's parts stash. All together these inclued both water tanks, coolant hoses, distributer, alternator and metal engine water pipes. All incoming parts were variously blasted, painted and/or polished.
In terms of the engine rebuild itself the damage caused by the lack of oil pressure was found to be not too bad. Regardless the crank, rods, flywheel and clutch cover were balanced and the engine rebuilt with new bearings, cam (Taraka), lifters, seals, rings etc. The block and heads were chemical dipped and the bores honed.
After much work it was indeed something to behold. More than that I was especially pleased that it had been rebuilt by someone so close to the original development work for this engine.
Chassis update next time.
Edited by simonwedge on Saturday 25th June 15:27
Stever said:
That's most helpful thank you. What have you done about the wheel centres?
The TVR centres ones I got were from a different person but were like these: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TVR-Self-Adhesive-Set-of...Can't remember the exact size, in the end they just needed a little rub down around the edge to fit in the recess of the wheels perfectly. I didn't even take the old 'Lenso' badges out of the wheels, just stuck the new ones on top. Two years on they still look perfect.
No, there has been no noticeable difference in ride quality.
I do know what you mean though, my previous wedge had 18" wheels all round and, although it looked great, the ride was ruined. Moving up to 16"/17" still leaves generous sidewalls with plenty of compliance. My car is non-PAS as well - I'm running 205's on the front, and the steering is no heavier than it was before either.
Simon
I do know what you mean though, my previous wedge had 18" wheels all round and, although it looked great, the ride was ruined. Moving up to 16"/17" still leaves generous sidewalls with plenty of compliance. My car is non-PAS as well - I'm running 205's on the front, and the steering is no heavier than it was before either.
Simon
So, the reason for taking the body off was engine-related rather than chassis-related. Coupled with the fact that the chassis on my car was fine beforehand and there couldn’t possibly be any issues with it. Right? Wrong.
Actually, the chassis looked fine to start with. It was only after it went for blasting that the issues started to become more apparent. The holes on one of the front corners were matched by reasonably heavy corrosion on both rear corners (but not yet holed). One of the wishbones was also holed as can be seen.
Having said all that, 90% of the outriggers were fine. It was therefore decided to cut out the affected parts only and weld in replacement sections. Joins were internally sleeved with appropriate sized tube before seam welding. This gives better heatsink and weld strength. Finally, all welds were ground flat before powder coating. The joins are now absolutely invisible. The overall alignment has all been retained because most of the outriggers have been retained.
The stay bar on the wishbone was cut out and a replacement bar welded in. I liked this pragmatic approach – get new parts where required and repair what was there where this is sensible.
New parts included all renewable items including bushes (stayed with metalastic as didn’t want to upset the ride quality), bearings, seals, fuel pump, brake/fuel/oil/water lines, drop links. At the same time, all parts were cleaned and/or blasted and painted or powder coated.
I had the shocks reconditioned by Gaz. I would recommend this – it was only about £120 for all four including P&P and VAT. I also had the exhaust chrome ceramic coated and it looks great.
Then, before you know it, it was done!
It goes without saying that I'm over the moon with it. I'm writing this retrospectively and got back yesterday from almost 1,000 miles to the Le Mans Classic and back. Brilliant.
Actually, the chassis looked fine to start with. It was only after it went for blasting that the issues started to become more apparent. The holes on one of the front corners were matched by reasonably heavy corrosion on both rear corners (but not yet holed). One of the wishbones was also holed as can be seen.
Having said all that, 90% of the outriggers were fine. It was therefore decided to cut out the affected parts only and weld in replacement sections. Joins were internally sleeved with appropriate sized tube before seam welding. This gives better heatsink and weld strength. Finally, all welds were ground flat before powder coating. The joins are now absolutely invisible. The overall alignment has all been retained because most of the outriggers have been retained.
The stay bar on the wishbone was cut out and a replacement bar welded in. I liked this pragmatic approach – get new parts where required and repair what was there where this is sensible.
New parts included all renewable items including bushes (stayed with metalastic as didn’t want to upset the ride quality), bearings, seals, fuel pump, brake/fuel/oil/water lines, drop links. At the same time, all parts were cleaned and/or blasted and painted or powder coated.
I had the shocks reconditioned by Gaz. I would recommend this – it was only about £120 for all four including P&P and VAT. I also had the exhaust chrome ceramic coated and it looks great.
Then, before you know it, it was done!
It goes without saying that I'm over the moon with it. I'm writing this retrospectively and got back yesterday from almost 1,000 miles to the Le Mans Classic and back. Brilliant.
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