My Baby Blue Build
Discussion
Hi,
First post in the Griffith Forum.
About time I asked for some help and advice and shared what I have been doing with car.
Im fully restoring a Griff 500, I purchased the car which was half way through a restoration, mainly everything was out of the chassis apart from diff. the body work was having sections rubbed down. It was abit of a mess. When I first saw the car the tub was loosely sat on a part rolling chassis. I decided to purchase it!
So far chassis is all nut and bolt restored and fresh powder coating done, it is rolling with i'm 99% sure everything on there now (inc a AP Caliper 330mm disc upgrade and a Impreza STI steering rack. So far so good. Engine is in etc. A few pics to wet the appetite.
Body has had a full new coat of paint. and is slowly taking shape, I much prefer the engine section side of restoring a car than interior.
The photos are not doing the paintwork justice.
So im currently at the stage of building back up the inside and body work of the tub, I removed most stuff before it got painted (what was left anyway) and got bits and pieces out to clean which are covered dust. The only thing left in is the wiring loom.
So that's where I am so far.
Now I have gotten to a mind boggling blackpool incarnation of a heater system. So I have left this before refitting, as it looks a BI*CH of a job. Not to mention a few wires are hanging off the two motors
So first things first, Im pretty sure I can see how the wires work based on both motors having the same coloured wires. So thats easy. I have one upgrade in mind!
I WANT YOU OPINIONS!!
The valve which controls (I am presuming here) the flow of water into the matrix, this looks like it could be upgraded to a ford Ka affair, which I would actually mount on the inside of the passenger foot well going into the bulk head.
This Ford Ka >>
instead of this concoction>>
I would cut off the clips from the Ford Ka unit, remove the foam edging and seal this flush against the inside of the passenger foot well with some grommets too fill the whole to the engine bay. Then attach the pipes in the engine bay. My thoughts for doing this is hot water wont be actually finding its way into the footwell when the valve is closed, thus help keep temps down a little more.
Second this looks like a more reliable unit. My only thoughts are what is the wiring like for this unit. I am going to acquire one for free these next few days from a friendly scrap man.
Second issue is what looks to be the drainage pipes... See pic
So as you can see the two holes at the bottom of the unit are missing I believe a (plastic) nipple, I have an additional pipe like the one in the pic which has a snapped end of a nipple inside it. Which matches the bottom left hole. Do I need one for the right hand side hole is my question??
Thanks for looking!
Mike
First post in the Griffith Forum.
About time I asked for some help and advice and shared what I have been doing with car.
Im fully restoring a Griff 500, I purchased the car which was half way through a restoration, mainly everything was out of the chassis apart from diff. the body work was having sections rubbed down. It was abit of a mess. When I first saw the car the tub was loosely sat on a part rolling chassis. I decided to purchase it!
So far chassis is all nut and bolt restored and fresh powder coating done, it is rolling with i'm 99% sure everything on there now (inc a AP Caliper 330mm disc upgrade and a Impreza STI steering rack. So far so good. Engine is in etc. A few pics to wet the appetite.
Body has had a full new coat of paint. and is slowly taking shape, I much prefer the engine section side of restoring a car than interior.
The photos are not doing the paintwork justice.
So im currently at the stage of building back up the inside and body work of the tub, I removed most stuff before it got painted (what was left anyway) and got bits and pieces out to clean which are covered dust. The only thing left in is the wiring loom.
So that's where I am so far.
Now I have gotten to a mind boggling blackpool incarnation of a heater system. So I have left this before refitting, as it looks a BI*CH of a job. Not to mention a few wires are hanging off the two motors
So first things first, Im pretty sure I can see how the wires work based on both motors having the same coloured wires. So thats easy. I have one upgrade in mind!
I WANT YOU OPINIONS!!
The valve which controls (I am presuming here) the flow of water into the matrix, this looks like it could be upgraded to a ford Ka affair, which I would actually mount on the inside of the passenger foot well going into the bulk head.
This Ford Ka >>
instead of this concoction>>
I would cut off the clips from the Ford Ka unit, remove the foam edging and seal this flush against the inside of the passenger foot well with some grommets too fill the whole to the engine bay. Then attach the pipes in the engine bay. My thoughts for doing this is hot water wont be actually finding its way into the footwell when the valve is closed, thus help keep temps down a little more.
Second this looks like a more reliable unit. My only thoughts are what is the wiring like for this unit. I am going to acquire one for free these next few days from a friendly scrap man.
Second issue is what looks to be the drainage pipes... See pic
So as you can see the two holes at the bottom of the unit are missing I believe a (plastic) nipple, I have an additional pipe like the one in the pic which has a snapped end of a nipple inside it. Which matches the bottom left hole. Do I need one for the right hand side hole is my question??
Thanks for looking!
Mike
Edited by Mike8448 on Friday 13th January 09:17
As yet the interior is all black on black. I haven't gotten that far in terms of decision. It will be black carpet for sure.
I have a some thoughts on dash etc but won't be able to confirm till I get into fitting it all.
I'm aiming to get a full set of nitrons this month or next. Then tub can go on chassis.
I have a some thoughts on dash etc but won't be able to confirm till I get into fitting it all.
I'm aiming to get a full set of nitrons this month or next. Then tub can go on chassis.
I will most likely offend a few when I say this but I am not a fan of blue carpet. I'm trying to get my hands on some cerb sports seats.
That way I can get them trimmed appropriately. I had thought of a grey with orange stitch. I am still yet to decide.
Plenty of time to get it sorted. I'm having a week off starting Tuesday. Hopefully there will be some good progress.
That way I can get them trimmed appropriately. I had thought of a grey with orange stitch. I am still yet to decide.
Plenty of time to get it sorted. I'm having a week off starting Tuesday. Hopefully there will be some good progress.
Well it has been a while since I last updated this,
I didn't put up any pics of how the engine looked prior to its clean etc.
As you can tell the engine is in a sorry state of affairs.
So a damn good steam clean later
(Yes thats my other baby in the background)
Now for the heat resistant paint (Thanks to POR15!) the engine and gearbox, diff and prop all received the same treatment and look awesome.
Prop before!
Here is the prop getting a few coats of the POR15.
I made a load of progress on the engine since my last post! (Sorry for the angles, these were taken by my brother)
You will notice in this shot, that I have replace the original copper fuel lines for plastic hose. I also because of using the plastic, rerouted to the top of the chassis. I dont see why it needs to run underneath. This wont break or split it is design to carry hydraulic fluid under huge PSI.
All rubber hoses replaced for nice new silicone. I was thinking of going BLUE, the trouble is getting the right shade and I think nice clean stock colour but obviously shiney silicone black will look great. I think it has paid off. You can also see the nice chrome water pipes from ACT.
These have caused a slight headache. It appears the tabs that come on the water pipes were 3/4mm to thick either side of the tab bolt hole (6/8mm over all) per tab. So I had to break out the dremmel in order to get these to fit my cam covers. (This is a limited issue and Tim at ACT remembered someone previous mentioning the same thing)
While finishing up on the engine, you may have noticed the wiring has all been rapped up in blue. Now this was a easy but tedious process. Also extremely sticky and dirty one! I dont have any pics of this sorry. I found some interesting wiring and lengths of wire wrapped up in the loom. The biggest one being the Distributor to coil pack cable 
(You know the looping forward and back cables attached to the flame trap pipework). This is nearly 1.5M in length, I have no idea why TVR didn't just shorten this its crazy 
. I aired on the cautious side myself and thought about chopping out the excess then thought, this is a TVR, they are not renowned for good electricals. So I instead looped the exces int a T shape, Excess went down the length of the T and the coil and dizzy go across the T. Again sorry don't have any pics. I rerouted a lot of the cable and it fits alot nicer in my eyes.
Fitted the new leather surround around the windscreen. #NIGHTMAREJOB especially when your on your own.
Now for some interesting bits and upgrades.
Fully sound deadened the interior.
Completed the tunnel heat protection, ow this is alot of fun as I am sure many who have done this before. A true pain trying to align it all and then rivot while the glue is going off!
So ordered some nice new shiney bits.
You can just make out in this pic the numberplate recess. I have wrapped the whole recess in a tin foil type tape. Then wrapped in a led light system to back light the number plate properly.
"ah, what about the original wholes" I hear you say. Well what better way to seal them then stick with the good old fashioned method...
Yeah you guessed it. silicone mastic. I used some very strong duck tape on the inside. then filled the gap with mastic then smoothed this into the corners and edges. I have tested this by attaching half a numberplate. Then pouring water in behind it to see if there were any leaks. I left it for 5 days to be sure, and im happy to report not a single leak!
Well that is it for now. I am pretty close to getting the body back on the chassis. Hopefully before February raises its ugly head.
My current checklist is long!
Fit spot lamps
Fit headlamps
Fit sidelights
fit blue conduit to cabling under body
Lower tub onto chassis
Bolt tub to chassis
Connect break and clutch lines to alloy boss
connect break master cylinder to engine breather
connect under body cables.
Connect earth to chassis from body (engine)
Connect and seal engine wiring to tub wiring sealing in bulkhead.
fit dashboard and instruments
connect all engine hosing and fill with coolant
connect air con pipes
fit fuel tank
connect to fuel pump
fit male type breather to fuel expansion line
connect fuel return pipe.
clean and paint (possibly wrap) exhaust manifolds
clean and paint (possibly wrap) exhaust y pipe
fit exhaust manifolds and y pipe
fit exhaust system and under neath bracket.
fit additional carpet and trim
fit seats
This is just what I can think of at the moment!
I didn't put up any pics of how the engine looked prior to its clean etc.
As you can tell the engine is in a sorry state of affairs.
So a damn good steam clean later
(Yes thats my other baby in the background)
Now for the heat resistant paint (Thanks to POR15!) the engine and gearbox, diff and prop all received the same treatment and look awesome.
Prop before!
Here is the prop getting a few coats of the POR15.
I made a load of progress on the engine since my last post! (Sorry for the angles, these were taken by my brother)
You will notice in this shot, that I have replace the original copper fuel lines for plastic hose. I also because of using the plastic, rerouted to the top of the chassis. I dont see why it needs to run underneath. This wont break or split it is design to carry hydraulic fluid under huge PSI.
All rubber hoses replaced for nice new silicone. I was thinking of going BLUE, the trouble is getting the right shade and I think nice clean stock colour but obviously shiney silicone black will look great. I think it has paid off. You can also see the nice chrome water pipes from ACT.
These have caused a slight headache. It appears the tabs that come on the water pipes were 3/4mm to thick either side of the tab bolt hole (6/8mm over all) per tab. So I had to break out the dremmel in order to get these to fit my cam covers. (This is a limited issue and Tim at ACT remembered someone previous mentioning the same thing)
While finishing up on the engine, you may have noticed the wiring has all been rapped up in blue. Now this was a easy but tedious process. Also extremely sticky and dirty one! I dont have any pics of this sorry. I found some interesting wiring and lengths of wire wrapped up in the loom. The biggest one being the Distributor to coil pack cable (You know the looping forward and back cables attached to the flame trap pipework). This is nearly 1.5M in length, I have no idea why TVR didn't just shorten this its crazy . I aired on the cautious side myself and thought about chopping out the excess then thought, this is a TVR, they are not renowned for good electricals. So I instead looped the exces int a T shape, Excess went down the length of the T and the coil and dizzy go across the T. Again sorry don't have any pics. I rerouted a lot of the cable and it fits alot nicer in my eyes.Fitted the new leather surround around the windscreen. #NIGHTMAREJOB especially when your on your own.
Now for some interesting bits and upgrades.
Fully sound deadened the interior.
Completed the tunnel heat protection, ow this is alot of fun as I am sure many who have done this before. A true pain trying to align it all and then rivot while the glue is going off!
So ordered some nice new shiney bits.
You can just make out in this pic the numberplate recess. I have wrapped the whole recess in a tin foil type tape. Then wrapped in a led light system to back light the number plate properly.
"ah, what about the original wholes" I hear you say. Well what better way to seal them then stick with the good old fashioned method...
Yeah you guessed it. silicone mastic. I used some very strong duck tape on the inside. then filled the gap with mastic then smoothed this into the corners and edges. I have tested this by attaching half a numberplate. Then pouring water in behind it to see if there were any leaks. I left it for 5 days to be sure, and im happy to report not a single leak!
Well that is it for now. I am pretty close to getting the body back on the chassis. Hopefully before February raises its ugly head.
My current checklist is long!
Fit spot lamps
Fit headlamps
Fit sidelights
fit blue conduit to cabling under body
Lower tub onto chassis
Bolt tub to chassis
Connect break and clutch lines to alloy boss
connect break master cylinder to engine breather
connect under body cables.
Connect earth to chassis from body (engine)
Connect and seal engine wiring to tub wiring sealing in bulkhead.
fit dashboard and instruments
connect all engine hosing and fill with coolant
connect air con pipes
fit fuel tank
connect to fuel pump
fit male type breather to fuel expansion line
connect fuel return pipe.
clean and paint (possibly wrap) exhaust manifolds
clean and paint (possibly wrap) exhaust y pipe
fit exhaust manifolds and y pipe
fit exhaust system and under neath bracket.
fit additional carpet and trim
fit seats
This is just what I can think of at the moment!
Edited by Mike8448 on Friday 13th January 09:42
Sorry about that all. I had one picture yesterday that REFUSED to show up. So I removed all sharing and reshared everything. I wont fall for that mistake again as it changed every shared URL for each picture so just spent the last hour going back over every picture to update to new URLs.
Anyway enjoy.
to show up. So I removed all sharing and reshared everything. I wont fall for that mistake again as it changed every shared URL for each picture so just spent the last hour going back over every picture to update to new URLs.Anyway enjoy.
rev-erend said:
Great tread - frustrated by the picture security though .. Is it road ready yet ?
No not yet. March it will be. I am taking a week off work 23rd of this month to try and get alot of these fiddly jobs done. I will also try and update another post later tonight or this week coming with all the changes that have happened on the tub. done plenty of stuff.Sorry last post honestly.
Something I did completely forget to take pictures of and probably for the best but seems to have worked out well is the windscreen venting. So if you have ever removed the scuttle which holds the bonnet arms and is used to send hot air through the windscreen vents you will know behind this scuttle it is just a mass of empty space except that props up your bonnet when open.
Well I bought seval hoover small brushes like this (but smaller and more on a angle) and fitted one underneath each whole for the windscreen. I then connected all 7 of these to a few pipes and plumbed them to the top of the heater matrix whole.
The result is pretty good. I did a small test once I had refitted the heater matrix and the air that comes out of these is pretty impressive. any one of the 7 will hold a piece of A4 paper up in the air while im holding it. So good result I feel. Shame I didnt take a pic of it all.It did look a little like Frankensteins monster but it gets the job done.
Something I did completely forget to take pictures of and probably for the best but seems to have worked out well is the windscreen venting. So if you have ever removed the scuttle which holds the bonnet arms and is used to send hot air through the windscreen vents you will know behind this scuttle it is just a mass of empty space except that props up your bonnet when open.
Well I bought seval hoover small brushes like this (but smaller and more on a angle) and fitted one underneath each whole for the windscreen. I then connected all 7 of these to a few pipes and plumbed them to the top of the heater matrix whole.
The result is pretty good. I did a small test once I had refitted the heater matrix and the air that comes out of these is pretty impressive. any one of the 7 will hold a piece of A4 paper up in the air while im holding it. So good result I feel. Shame I didnt take a pic of it all.It did look a little like Frankensteins monster but it gets the job done.
This is perfect. You just need to join most of them on the driver's side with a Y piece. If that makes sense.
http://www.espares.co.uk/product/es1673882
http://www.espares.co.uk/product/es1673882
Quick update plenty has been happening not had the time to update this.
A bit of polishing
I think it's polished up nicely.
NOW FOR THE INTERESTING PART! Lowering of the body. I bet it's never been done like this before but it worked a treat
Me and two mates did it in 40 minutes flat. Hopefully the pictures speak for themselves.!
Managed all the boot is recarpetted tank fitted and connected etc
Been making great progress got both front lights in, horns and all the front wiring. Since fitted and plumbed all the water pipes in.
My checklist is reducing at an alarming rate. But still not fast enough.
Did treat the car to some. Leven tech bits
A bit of polishing
I think it's polished up nicely.
NOW FOR THE INTERESTING PART! Lowering of the body. I bet it's never been done like this before but it worked a treat
Me and two mates did it in 40 minutes flat. Hopefully the pictures speak for themselves.!
Managed all the boot is recarpetted tank fitted and connected etc
Been making great progress got both front lights in, horns and all the front wiring. Since fitted and plumbed all the water pipes in.
My checklist is reducing at an alarming rate. But still not fast enough.
Did treat the car to some. Leven tech bits
Hi Guys sorry it's still on going. Been a little distracted recently. Made some good progress though. I'm 95% there now. Considering 18 months ago there was nothing at all left on the chassis and nothing in or on the tub, to get most of 8t back together is fantastic. Still making slight improvements here and there when I get chance. Such as more modern connectors here and there. Polishing this and that still. I'm half way through polishing up the maf. Next will be the bonnet catch.
Most of the interior is in now and complete. There is a few things to do. I've got both doors on but I've got an issue with the passenger door window not working need to figure that out.
I've been lazy not getting my impreza Ps rack sorted so it's been delaying me starting the car.
My next thing is I need to get the rough re clothed. Any suggestions on who can do that in the north west?
Johnzo your welcome to come and view but it has to be finished first haha. I'm. Only 10 mins away from J36 of the M6. I'm hoping I can get my finger out this next month it should be running and driving with a fresh MOT.... Well maybe #facepalm
Most of the interior is in now and complete. There is a few things to do. I've got both doors on but I've got an issue with the passenger door window not working need to figure that out.
I've been lazy not getting my impreza Ps rack sorted so it's been delaying me starting the car.
My next thing is I need to get the rough re clothed. Any suggestions on who can do that in the north west?
Johnzo your welcome to come and view but it has to be finished first haha. I'm. Only 10 mins away from J36 of the M6. I'm hoping I can get my finger out this next month it should be running and driving with a fresh MOT.... Well maybe #facepalm
In fact let me update this list too.
Fit spot lamps - done need to test
Fit headlamps - done need to test
Fit sidelights
fit blue conduit to cabling under body - done
Lower tub onto chassis - done
Bolt tub to chassis - done
Connect break and clutch lines to alloy boss - done need to test for leaks
connect break master cylinder to engine breather - done
connect under body cables. - done
Connect earth to chassis from body (engine) - done need to test
Connect and seal engine wiring to tub wiring sealing in bulkhead. - done
fit dashboard and instruments
connect all engine hosing and fill with coolant - hoses connected need to fill
connect air con pipes - done need to test for leaks
fit fuel tank - done need to test for leaks
connect to fuel pump - done
fit male type breather to fuel expansion line - done
connect fuel return pipe. - done need to test for leaks
clean and paint (possibly wrap) exhaust manifolds - done
clean and paint (possibly wrap) exhaust y pipe - done
fit exhaust manifolds and y pipe - manifolds done
fit exhaust system and under neath bracket. - done
fit additional carpet and trim - done
fit seats - done
Fit induction system
Test all electricals
Fit impreza pinion
Measure and cut down steering column to length
Connect hydraulic lines to ps
Fill power steering
Bleed brakes
Track wheel alignment
Purchase some thinner tyres for front wheels (currently to wide to turn properly)
Purchase locking wheel nuts
Get car weighed and suspension set up.
MOT
Fit spot lamps - done need to test
Fit headlamps - done need to test
Fit sidelights
fit blue conduit to cabling under body - done
Lower tub onto chassis - done
Bolt tub to chassis - done
Connect break and clutch lines to alloy boss - done need to test for leaks
connect break master cylinder to engine breather - done
connect under body cables. - done
Connect earth to chassis from body (engine) - done need to test
Connect and seal engine wiring to tub wiring sealing in bulkhead. - done
fit dashboard and instruments
connect all engine hosing and fill with coolant - hoses connected need to fill
connect air con pipes - done need to test for leaks
fit fuel tank - done need to test for leaks
connect to fuel pump - done
fit male type breather to fuel expansion line - done
connect fuel return pipe. - done need to test for leaks
clean and paint (possibly wrap) exhaust manifolds - done
clean and paint (possibly wrap) exhaust y pipe - done
fit exhaust manifolds and y pipe - manifolds done
fit exhaust system and under neath bracket. - done
fit additional carpet and trim - done
fit seats - done
Fit induction system
Test all electricals
Fit impreza pinion
Measure and cut down steering column to length
Connect hydraulic lines to ps
Fill power steering
Bleed brakes
Track wheel alignment
Purchase some thinner tyres for front wheels (currently to wide to turn properly)
Purchase locking wheel nuts
Get car weighed and suspension set up.
MOT
Ok not much more to get done. Lights all wired up and working a treat. Got a ecu fault stopping me from starting her up.
So decided to get the brakes bled up, clutch bled up and finish off some minor things like rerouting a few cables so there neater.
Cables done.
Lights done but need some new bulbs.
Brakes.... Errrr
Clutch.... Errr
Ok so attempted to bleed the clutch. Pressed the clutch pedal down, it goes down but does not spring back. So after a but of faf I came to the conclusion that the master cylinder is screwed.
So for anyone who wants to do this without removing everything I will let you know this is possible to do and takes around 30mins.
1. Remove the black domed cover
2. Undo the clutch slave bleed nipple this will drain any fluid in the system. In my case I did this but no fluid came out as the plunger in the system was stuck closed. Pressed in.
If like me then use some blue garage towling to soak up the fluid.
3. Remove the 1/2 inch brass fitting which has the copper pipe on the master cylinder.
4. Wrap a thick cloth around a 13mm spanner. Put it onto the top bolt head. Inside the car undo the 13mm top nut the spanner will move around slightly in the open hole until it's undone. But with the towel on it won't mark the paint.
5. Bottom bolt. Ok I used a 1/4in drive 13mm socket, and 4inch extension to my ratchet. If you ratchet is metal wrap with the towel again. Now you have just enough room to feed it past the front of the clutch master cylinder. Then underneath to the bottom bolt. NOTE: make sure you click the ratchet to undo. Otherwise your going to have to take it back out.
6. Disconnect the pin thing holding the master cylinder.
Ok not to fit the new one reverse the above.
After this issue I decided luckily before moving onto removing the clutch MS I decided to bleed up the brakes.
Similar issue failed brake master cylinder. Not sure what fluid was last in these but I'm guessing it's been the wrong dot fluid and it's rotted them.
So after removing the clutch MS it was quite easy to then remove the brake MS.
I knifed out the silicone holding in the reservoir drained out the fluid. Then pulled off the reservoir while the brake MS was still bolted in. Thus gave me good access to the pipes.
I unbolted the easy rear brake line first. Then unbolted the MS from the drum then moved the MS out through the hole of the reservoir. To access both front brake lines. Unbolted these then swapped the new MS over.
A few pics. Warning however make sure you order the correct clutch MS I've ordered one with a smaller diameter thread hole for the clutch line.
UPDATE: So see my comment further below about the adapter, the clutch MS only comes with the smaller hole now, so an adapter is needed for it to fit.
So decided to get the brakes bled up, clutch bled up and finish off some minor things like rerouting a few cables so there neater.
Cables done.
Lights done but need some new bulbs.
Brakes.... Errrr
Clutch.... Errr
Ok so attempted to bleed the clutch. Pressed the clutch pedal down, it goes down but does not spring back. So after a but of faf I came to the conclusion that the master cylinder is screwed.
So for anyone who wants to do this without removing everything I will let you know this is possible to do and takes around 30mins.
1. Remove the black domed cover
2. Undo the clutch slave bleed nipple this will drain any fluid in the system. In my case I did this but no fluid came out as the plunger in the system was stuck closed. Pressed in.
If like me then use some blue garage towling to soak up the fluid.
3. Remove the 1/2 inch brass fitting which has the copper pipe on the master cylinder.
4. Wrap a thick cloth around a 13mm spanner. Put it onto the top bolt head. Inside the car undo the 13mm top nut the spanner will move around slightly in the open hole until it's undone. But with the towel on it won't mark the paint.
5. Bottom bolt. Ok I used a 1/4in drive 13mm socket, and 4inch extension to my ratchet. If you ratchet is metal wrap with the towel again. Now you have just enough room to feed it past the front of the clutch master cylinder. Then underneath to the bottom bolt. NOTE: make sure you click the ratchet to undo. Otherwise your going to have to take it back out.
6. Disconnect the pin thing holding the master cylinder.
Ok not to fit the new one reverse the above.
After this issue I decided luckily before moving onto removing the clutch MS I decided to bleed up the brakes.
Similar issue failed brake master cylinder. Not sure what fluid was last in these but I'm guessing it's been the wrong dot fluid and it's rotted them.
So after removing the clutch MS it was quite easy to then remove the brake MS.
I knifed out the silicone holding in the reservoir drained out the fluid. Then pulled off the reservoir while the brake MS was still bolted in. Thus gave me good access to the pipes.
I unbolted the easy rear brake line first. Then unbolted the MS from the drum then moved the MS out through the hole of the reservoir. To access both front brake lines. Unbolted these then swapped the new MS over.
A few pics. Warning however make sure you order the correct clutch MS I've ordered one with a smaller diameter thread hole for the clutch line.
UPDATE: So see my comment further below about the adapter, the clutch MS only comes with the smaller hole now, so an adapter is needed for it to fit.
Edited by Mike8448 on Monday 19th June 10:01
Edited by Mike8448 on Thursday 22 June 14:35
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