Body lift started
Discussion
Took the plunge today and started work on lifting the body on my Griff to check/clean/paint the outriggers. Just doing the 2" raise rather than a full body off.
Whilst I have the body raised I'm also replacing all the suspension bushes with poly bushes and the shocks/springs with some Racing Reds. I'll also clean and paint the wishbones as the powder coat is starting to flake on them.
I'm using Rob's guide on The Griffith Pages
to help me, which so far has been spot on, I've also had his bush removal tool made up as well to help with the suspension bushes. 
So far the Griff is off the ground and all the bits are disconnected. I drained and removed the radiator outside the garage before I jacked it up. That was so I didn't have to lie on a damp garage floor. The chassis bolts in the boot are out, as are the seat belt mounting bolts. So far the bolts have come out without any real issue, the key seems to be plenty of penetrating oil and a gradual application of torque to the bolts. I'm using a 16" breaker bar with 1/2" sockets which makes it easy to apply the torque without snatching at the bolts.
Just the rest of the chassis bolts to remove and lift the body, hopefully tomorrow evening.
I'll post some pictures once the body is up and the really dirty work starts.
Once all this is done it will be time for some serious
Colin
Whilst I have the body raised I'm also replacing all the suspension bushes with poly bushes and the shocks/springs with some Racing Reds. I'll also clean and paint the wishbones as the powder coat is starting to flake on them.
I'm using Rob's guide on The Griffith Pages
to help me, which so far has been spot on, I've also had his bush removal tool made up as well to help with the suspension bushes. So far the Griff is off the ground and all the bits are disconnected. I drained and removed the radiator outside the garage before I jacked it up. That was so I didn't have to lie on a damp garage floor. The chassis bolts in the boot are out, as are the seat belt mounting bolts. So far the bolts have come out without any real issue, the key seems to be plenty of penetrating oil and a gradual application of torque to the bolts. I'm using a 16" breaker bar with 1/2" sockets which makes it easy to apply the torque without snatching at the bolts.
Just the rest of the chassis bolts to remove and lift the body, hopefully tomorrow evening.
I'll post some pictures once the body is up and the really dirty work starts.
Once all this is done it will be time for some serious
Colin
Thanks everyone - will try to post some updates as I go along.
HRG said:
Good luck, and don't forget the two bolts under the centre console when you start to lift 
I got the console out yesterday and there does not look to be much room above the bolts, so I'll have to have a closer look tonight.Finally got round to completing the body lift today. Last few bolts came out easily, I think letting the penetrating oil soak for a couple of days really helped.
Couldn't get the nearside bolt under the console out completely so had to lift the body a bit then undo it a bit more.
Lifting the body was realitvely easy just used some wood to spread the load and jacked it front and rear (carefully).
Outriggers don't look too bad but we'll see what we find when I start to clean them up a bit.
Started to dismantle the suspension. going to do one side at a time so I've got a reference for reassembling.
Front nearside is stripped out and the rear is nearly done but had to stop for the day. Need to find something to support the rear carrier on when I remove the wishbones. Don't really want to disconnect the driveshafts.
anyway a few pictures
Tried out Rob's bush removal tool and it works well, just take a lot of hitting and then retightening the bolts. Might just use it for the rear carrier bushes and drop the wishbones into a garage and get them to press them out for me.
Couldn't get the nearside bolt under the console out completely so had to lift the body a bit then undo it a bit more.
Lifting the body was realitvely easy just used some wood to spread the load and jacked it front and rear (carefully).
Outriggers don't look too bad but we'll see what we find when I start to clean them up a bit.
Started to dismantle the suspension. going to do one side at a time so I've got a reference for reassembling.
Front nearside is stripped out and the rear is nearly done but had to stop for the day. Need to find something to support the rear carrier on when I remove the wishbones. Don't really want to disconnect the driveshafts.
anyway a few pictures
Tried out Rob's bush removal tool and it works well, just take a lot of hitting and then retightening the bolts. Might just use it for the rear carrier bushes and drop the wishbones into a garage and get them to press them out for me.
Edited by Colin RedGriff on Saturday 10th January 19:00
HRG said:
For the rear carrier a wide piece of wood wedged between the disc and carrier works a treat!
And then stand the wood on the floor with the carrier on the top?
I'll give that a try - I was go to try and balance it on some bricks or similar. Did you tie it back to the chassis to take the strain off the brake hose?
The lump of wood worked a treat. The drive shaft keeps it all in place.
It was stable enough to use the bush removal tool on as well.
On the subject of the bush tool - while testing it on the rear carriers found I got a much better result with the carrier as it was held steady so clamped a wishbone in my vice and tried it that way and it works a treat. Before I was doing it in my lap and couldn't really tighten the nuts sufficiently.
In the vice I could put more pressure on with the spanner - needs a few hits
with the hammer to get the bush moving and for the first bit but after that it becomes easier and tightening the nut is sufficient to keep the bush moving and so it is much quicker. Will probably do all the wishbones myself now I'm more confident with the tool.
It was stable enough to use the bush removal tool on as well.
On the subject of the bush tool - while testing it on the rear carriers found I got a much better result with the carrier as it was held steady so clamped a wishbone in my vice and tried it that way and it works a treat. Before I was doing it in my lap and couldn't really tighten the nuts sufficiently.
In the vice I could put more pressure on with the spanner - needs a few hits
with the hammer to get the bush moving and for the first bit but after that it becomes easier and tightening the nut is sufficient to keep the bush moving and so it is much quicker. Will probably do all the wishbones myself now I'm more confident with the tool. Bit of an update - haven't been spending much time in the garage recently but got out there tonight.
outrigger chassis rail
centre traingulation plates - before cleaning
Rear body mounting point - prior to cleaning
Rear triangulation plate - prior to cleaning
Nearside is now pretty much ready for painting, chassis rails in pretty good nick just some light surface rust that i've sanded/wire brushed off. Even the traingualtion plates are pretty good.
These are mostly cleaned up now just need to get into the corners to finish them off.
Wishbones will be sent off for shotblasting and powder coating.
outrigger chassis rail
centre traingulation plates - before cleaning
Rear body mounting point - prior to cleaning
Rear triangulation plate - prior to cleaning
Nearside is now pretty much ready for painting, chassis rails in pretty good nick just some light surface rust that i've sanded/wire brushed off. Even the traingualtion plates are pretty good.
These are mostly cleaned up now just need to get into the corners to finish them off.
Wishbones will be sent off for shotblasting and powder coating.
Hi Ian
Yep I'm going the POR15 route too.
In the first picture the threaded sleeve set in the rail nearest the camera is the seatbelt fixing for the lap part of the belt. Further back on top of the chassis rail is the rear body mounting point. The seatbelt reel mounts to the rear mounting plate.
Yep I'm going the POR15 route too.
In the first picture the threaded sleeve set in the rail nearest the camera is the seatbelt fixing for the lap part of the belt. Further back on top of the chassis rail is the rear body mounting point. The seatbelt reel mounts to the rear mounting plate.
Hmm while the holes are not huge I could get my finger in there so maybe the later ones are a bit bigger. I'll take a look - not started painting yet.
Back to the mounting point. I had a quick check last night and the mounting point nearest to the back of the outrigger doesn't have a bolt hole to match up with it so doesn't appear to be used for anything.....
When I was removing the mounting bolts I followed Rob's guide on TGP and it matched up with what I had in terms of where they were and number.
Back to the mounting point. I had a quick check last night and the mounting point nearest to the back of the outrigger doesn't have a bolt hole to match up with it so doesn't appear to be used for anything.....
When I was removing the mounting bolts I followed Rob's guide on TGP and it matched up with what I had in terms of where they were and number.
Spent the day in the garage today, stripped the offside suspension, removed all the bushes and started to strip off the poweder coat on the offside outrigger. Similar story to the nearside, some surface rust and flaky poweder coat but underneath the tubes are in good condition. Finish cleaning off the outriggers tomorrow ready for painting hopefully.
Barreti said:
I painted mine yesterday and today Colin.
A few words of wisdom for you.
When you use the metal etch stuff have some clean water and a towel to hand. It burns when you get it on your hands and face so you'll need to wash them. And for the same reasons wear goggles or glasses throughout the whole process.
POR15 is horrible when it gets on you, so get yourself a CSI type paper suit and rubber gloves. Also take a trip to the garage and get a handful of the plastic gloves they supply for ponces who don't like getting diesel on their paws
The rubber gloves keep the paint of your hands, the plastic gloves are so you can swap them regularly so you don't get completely covered. Either that or you'll use loads of rubber gloves and they are difficult to take off without touching your wrists.
I used about a dozen pairs of plastic gloves and two pairs of rubber gloves. And I'm still covered in the ruddy stuff.
Wear a face mast if you have one to keep the flicked paint off your face.
Don't shave, it makes it easier to get the paint off if you have stubble to shave off.
Don't believe the 3-5 hours drying time it says on the POR15 tin. Mine was dry enough for the second coat in 2-3 hrs, although I had a small electric fan heater running in the garage.
You'll get drips, it can't be helped. Cardboard on the floor is good, POR15 wipes off it easily and what you don't wipe off soaks in quickly.
I used a file to take off the worst drips before I used Blackcote today.
Blackcote is difficult to use because a) you're painting black on black & b) it doesn't go on very well but runs like hell. So keep revisiting where you've been to catch the runs and drips.
That's all mate. Just a few hints
Have fun.
Perhaps we should get POR15 T-shirts made. "I painted with POR15" - with the shirt covered in black blobs and smears!
Thanks Ian - I'll bear those in mind.A few words of wisdom for you.
When you use the metal etch stuff have some clean water and a towel to hand. It burns when you get it on your hands and face so you'll need to wash them. And for the same reasons wear goggles or glasses throughout the whole process.
POR15 is horrible when it gets on you, so get yourself a CSI type paper suit and rubber gloves. Also take a trip to the garage and get a handful of the plastic gloves they supply for ponces who don't like getting diesel on their paws
The rubber gloves keep the paint of your hands, the plastic gloves are so you can swap them regularly so you don't get completely covered. Either that or you'll use loads of rubber gloves and they are difficult to take off without touching your wrists.
I used about a dozen pairs of plastic gloves and two pairs of rubber gloves. And I'm still covered in the ruddy stuff.
Wear a face mast if you have one to keep the flicked paint off your face.
Don't shave, it makes it easier to get the paint off if you have stubble to shave off.
Don't believe the 3-5 hours drying time it says on the POR15 tin. Mine was dry enough for the second coat in 2-3 hrs, although I had a small electric fan heater running in the garage.
You'll get drips, it can't be helped. Cardboard on the floor is good, POR15 wipes off it easily and what you don't wipe off soaks in quickly.
I used a file to take off the worst drips before I used Blackcote today.
Blackcote is difficult to use because a) you're painting black on black & b) it doesn't go on very well but runs like hell. So keep revisiting where you've been to catch the runs and drips.
That's all mate. Just a few hints
Have fun.
Perhaps we should get POR15 T-shirts made. "I painted with POR15" - with the shirt covered in black blobs and smears!
Like the t-shirt idea....
Been a bit slow recently - the outriggers are stripped and ready for repainting.
Managed to source a rear wishbone without a seized toe-in adjuster. All the wishbones were dropped off yesterday for stripping, zinc priming and powder coating.
Planning to paint the outriggers this weekend and then should be ready to start reassembly when the wishbones are back next week. New poly bushes all round and new shocks/springs ready to fit.
Then geometry set up, and some
Managed to source a rear wishbone without a seized toe-in adjuster. All the wishbones were dropped off yesterday for stripping, zinc priming and powder coating.
Planning to paint the outriggers this weekend and then should be ready to start reassembly when the wishbones are back next week. New poly bushes all round and new shocks/springs ready to fit.
Then geometry set up, and some
Yes - I was watching the thread on diff bushes - I have new bushes but judging by the amount of swearing on that thread about the back bush I might drop them off with the car when the geometry is done.
Might have a look at the bushes and see if I'm feeling up to it.
edited to translate to english
Might have a look at the bushes and see if I'm feeling up to it.
edited to translate to english
Edited by Colin RedGriff on Thursday 5th March 21:58
Work, DIY, family stuff and general laziness has been holding up the progress on the refit but getting there slowly.
Body is back on the chassis and bolted up apart from the bolts in the footwells and the seatbelts. Going to leave those until I can roll the car out of the garage and open the doors properly.
Wishbones all stripped, zinc primed and powder coated.
Bushes all replaced. Rear suspension reassembled complete withi new shocks and springs.
Completed one of the front corners this evening with Clive's stainless heat shields. One corner to go.
Then
front and rear arbs to put back on
reconnect steering uj and bolt rack down
front chasis bolts and earths
wheels back on
bolts in footwells
refit seat belts
refit seats and central console
replace rad and refill plus reconnect other bits disconnected in engine bay
replace battery
Then it's off for annual service, mot and full geometry set up.
Light at the end of the tunnel...
Body is back on the chassis and bolted up apart from the bolts in the footwells and the seatbelts. Going to leave those until I can roll the car out of the garage and open the doors properly.
Wishbones all stripped, zinc primed and powder coated.
Bushes all replaced. Rear suspension reassembled complete withi new shocks and springs.
Completed one of the front corners this evening with Clive's stainless heat shields. One corner to go.
Then
front and rear arbs to put back on
reconnect steering uj and bolt rack down
front chasis bolts and earths
wheels back on
bolts in footwells
refit seat belts
refit seats and central console
replace rad and refill plus reconnect other bits disconnected in engine bay
replace battery
Then it's off for annual service, mot and full geometry set up.
Light at the end of the tunnel...
. So looks like I will get it back just as the monsoon season starts.
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