Discussion
Hiya,
is there anything that can be done to make the TD5 fractionally less ponderous? Obviously, Im not expecting it ever to be even slightly fast, but I'd be really interested to hear what (and by who) can be done, all the way from home made tweaks- like maybe an EGR bypass valve (though I'll admit I dont really understand what one of those is), to more full on ECU upgrades.
If it helps at all, the car is a 2001 Tomb Raider 110. I only mention that because Im sure I read somewhere a few years ago that the TR's were already in a higher (yet obviously still woeful) state of tune.
Thanks in advance,
N.
is there anything that can be done to make the TD5 fractionally less ponderous? Obviously, Im not expecting it ever to be even slightly fast, but I'd be really interested to hear what (and by who) can be done, all the way from home made tweaks- like maybe an EGR bypass valve (though I'll admit I dont really understand what one of those is), to more full on ECU upgrades.
If it helps at all, the car is a 2001 Tomb Raider 110. I only mention that because Im sure I read somewhere a few years ago that the TR's were already in a higher (yet obviously still woeful) state of tune.
Thanks in advance,
N.
Edited by nervous on Monday 8th June 03:16
Steve UK said:
Why don't you try cleaning your MAP sensor which is on the intake manifold. Clean all the gunk off with some petrol or brake cleaner. It's easy to do and if it's dirty will instantly give some bhp back you didn't realise you had lost. Free too.
I like the sound of this, being massivley cheap and lazy as I am.Can anyone point me in the direction of a few more detailed directions? Imagine you were dealing with a total idiot.
Steve UK said:
thanks Steve 
(though thats possibly the worst picture anywhere, ever, of anything, ever
)
Grebo911 said:
I bought a defender 90 (55 plate) early March and after enduring a seemingly never ending drive back from Nottinghamshire on the motorway when I fetched it vowed that it needed a bit more umph - so asked around, made a few phone calls and went over to see Ian at IRB Developments (by the Belfry) he put on a stage 1 remap first which made a dramatic difference but then after a bit of persuasion (well ok not that much!!!) he then did a stage 2 comprising slightly different remap, larger intercooler (and I mean LARGER) silicon hoses, EGR kit, ITG filter, boost box, de-cat pipe and straight thru middle pipe. It is now ACE - me and the wife argue over who's going to drive it to/from the caravan in Wales - the torque is fantastic - you can now overtake with ease - much to peoples astonishment.
How much how much?Steve UK said:
nervous said:
seriously though- where is that? I cant see anything that looks anything like it. And, what am I cleaning? the plug? or is there a wire filament thing like in a MAF sensor?
Remove the plastic cover from your engine, looking from the front on the left hand side of the engine their is an intake manifold or plenum depending on who you talk to.Its kind of cylindrical, half way down this is the sensor your looking for. With and 8mm spanner you can remove the 2 bolts. Disconnect the sensor before removing.
Clean off the gunk, be careful not to push any gunk into the small hole in the sensor, this needs to be clear. Clean with brake cleaner or petrol and dry.
911wise said:
nervous said:
seriously though- where is that? I cant see anything that looks anything like it. And, what am I cleaning? the plug? or is there a wire filament thing like in a MAF sensor?
Is it me or are these MAF sensors the devils own work? Look through any forum on here and any engine trouble with any car,and its always involves the MAF sensor and it's fixed by cleaning, it if they can find it!
hello mate!Anyway, here's fun. I cleaned both the MAP and the MAF and fitted a replacement bypass EGR this weekend. All of them are 5 minute jobs, so I'm sure you'll be thrilled to know how they went.
Remove MAP sensor. Connector breaks. Get quite cross. Clean sensor, fix plug and replace.
Remove MAF. Clean MAF. Break MAF. Get even crosser. Realise I'm going to need a bigger boat and more luck. Have 5 minute break and generally practice swearing.
Remover EGR on the left hand end. Cut hand, which has since required stitches. make do with glue for now, and content myself with questioning the existence of God.
Attempt to remove right hand end of EGR pipe, only to discover that good old land rover have kindly fitted allen key fixings, which are not only totally in-accesable, but also made of rust, even when new. manage to get allen key on both fixings after removal of everything, both internal allen key faces immediately round out and become unusable. Hate Land Rover and ever having looked forward to this.
Drive to work to get f
k off stilsons to get a grip on the perfectly smooth outer fascia of fixing. Get there only to find my new key doesn't work. Drive all the way home again, and then back. Shout at a cyclist.
Collect fk off stilsons. Stilsons do not turn fixing. File flat faces on one fixing and manage to get it out. Yell 'fk you God, have that!' just as local Vicar walks past.
Realise that second fixing cannot be reached, at all, with any of the tools I have. Decide to chisel off pipe thing to gain access. No going back fro here. Chisel off pipe thing and cut other hand. Yell at cat, and grumpily refuse a helpful drink from the wife.
Finally get second fixing out, after filing down faces and applying brute force. Clean area, find replacement fixings, and fit.
Fixing two- the one that's impossible to get to shears. Get very, very cross.
Spend three hours trying to extract it, using any and all means I can think of. Nothing works.
Give up and go to bed angry and annoyed and deflated and feeling not much like a real man.
Get up early redetermined not to be beaten and scavenge a welder, with the intention of welding a nut on the end of the stub and extracting it.
Remove drivers seat to disconnect battery before welding, which takes ages as my 110 has bucket seats fitted with 3 inch bolts securing them. Discover that battery is on the other side in this car. Get really, really, really, really tense. Expect more failure.
Remove passenger seat. Takes much longer as runner above final fixing has been crushed down, by something with more strength than I possess to lever it back up.
Disconnect battery. Cut Hand and forearm on battery recess.
Weld nut. Fixing comes out. Brilliant. Nervy wins.
Fit blanking plate as provided with kit. Refit every single component that has had to come off. Top up coolant, AGAIN.
Hose leaks. Refit Hose. Hose leaks more. Trim and refit hose. Two hoses leaks.
Fix leaks. Reconnect battery, refit seats. Scratch door. Get crosser than I've been, possibly have ever been. Wish I was a drinker.
Start car.
Blanking plate leaks.
Oh, goody.
So, does anyone know how to stop it leaking? Should there be a gasket? Would exhaust gum do it?
Also, whilst looking under the wrong seat, I found this:
Its a box with a bunch of wires coming out of it, that's sitting next to the ECU. It says 'Power by PSI Motor-sport' and on the side it says 'IP' and 'S/N 23458 IPRODEF'. Anyone know what it is? I'm guessing it's a box of bad karma. Sorry for the bad pictures by the way, I'd lost a lot of blookd by this point.
Anyway, in summary: Land Rover & 5 minute jobs- Get to fking fkery.
Remove MAP sensor. Connector breaks. Get quite cross. Clean sensor, fix plug and replace.
Remove MAF. Clean MAF. Break MAF. Get even crosser. Realise I'm going to need a bigger boat and more luck. Have 5 minute break and generally practice swearing.
Remover EGR on the left hand end. Cut hand, which has since required stitches. make do with glue for now, and content myself with questioning the existence of God.
Attempt to remove right hand end of EGR pipe, only to discover that good old land rover have kindly fitted allen key fixings, which are not only totally in-accesable, but also made of rust, even when new. manage to get allen key on both fixings after removal of everything, both internal allen key faces immediately round out and become unusable. Hate Land Rover and ever having looked forward to this.
Drive to work to get f
k off stilsons to get a grip on the perfectly smooth outer fascia of fixing. Get there only to find my new key doesn't work. Drive all the way home again, and then back. Shout at a cyclist.Collect f
k off stilsons. Stilsons do not turn fixing. File flat faces on one fixing and manage to get it out. Yell 'fk you God, have that!' just as local Vicar walks past.Realise that second fixing cannot be reached, at all, with any of the tools I have. Decide to chisel off pipe thing to gain access. No going back fro here. Chisel off pipe thing and cut other hand. Yell at cat, and grumpily refuse a helpful drink from the wife.
Finally get second fixing out, after filing down faces and applying brute force. Clean area, find replacement fixings, and fit.
Fixing two- the one that's impossible to get to shears. Get very, very cross.
Spend three hours trying to extract it, using any and all means I can think of. Nothing works.
Give up and go to bed angry and annoyed and deflated and feeling not much like a real man.
Get up early redetermined not to be beaten and scavenge a welder, with the intention of welding a nut on the end of the stub and extracting it.
Remove drivers seat to disconnect battery before welding, which takes ages as my 110 has bucket seats fitted with 3 inch bolts securing them. Discover that battery is on the other side in this car. Get really, really, really, really tense. Expect more failure.
Remove passenger seat. Takes much longer as runner above final fixing has been crushed down, by something with more strength than I possess to lever it back up.
Disconnect battery. Cut Hand and forearm on battery recess.
Weld nut. Fixing comes out. Brilliant. Nervy wins.
Fit blanking plate as provided with kit. Refit every single component that has had to come off. Top up coolant, AGAIN.
Hose leaks. Refit Hose. Hose leaks more. Trim and refit hose. Two hoses leaks.
Fix leaks. Reconnect battery, refit seats. Scratch door. Get crosser than I've been, possibly have ever been. Wish I was a drinker.
Start car.
Blanking plate leaks.
Oh, goody.
So, does anyone know how to stop it leaking? Should there be a gasket? Would exhaust gum do it?
Also, whilst looking under the wrong seat, I found this:
Its a box with a bunch of wires coming out of it, that's sitting next to the ECU. It says 'Power by PSI Motor-sport' and on the side it says 'IP' and 'S/N 23458 IPRODEF'. Anyone know what it is? I'm guessing it's a box of bad karma. Sorry for the bad pictures by the way, I'd lost a lot of blookd by this point.
Anyway, in summary: Land Rover & 5 minute jobs- Get to f
king fkery.Steve UK said:
Is their any improvement after your hard work.
Is it working though? never really liked scotch locks and their seems to be quite a few in there.
Steve
It is now, thanks to liberal applications of exhaust gum.Is it working though? never really liked scotch locks and their seems to be quite a few in there.
Steve
Oh, and no- there's no improvement.
Good old land rover, no I remember why I sell them as quickly as I buy them
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