Discussion
I recently took a trip to the dark end of the automotive spectrum. To overcome this trauma I've bought myself a Mercedes 190E "Classic" on an L-reg.
Last of the line 190E and bog standard apart from a little plastic afterthought "Classic" badge placed on the boot lid.
I'm pretty lucky to get one with 145,000 miles on the 1.8 engine, manual gearbox (of course) and she'll be delivered Wednesday.
I was looking forward to collecting the car but life and stuff gets in the way.
So what would you do with a tidy red late model 190E?
I'm thinking classic lines with modern "Kompressor" power.
Last of the line 190E and bog standard apart from a little plastic afterthought "Classic" badge placed on the boot lid.
I'm pretty lucky to get one with 145,000 miles on the 1.8 engine, manual gearbox (of course) and she'll be delivered Wednesday.
I was looking forward to collecting the car but life and stuff gets in the way.
So what would you do with a tidy red late model 190E?
I'm thinking classic lines with modern "Kompressor" power.
She arrived just after nine o'clock. Too dark to photograph and the usual tired Bosch ten minute start up. Lumpy gear change and wallowy suspension.
I was thinking rear wishbone bushes and gearbox mounts but a look at the MOT suggests subframe bushes and front prop' shaft rubber. Not a bad guess. I hope the slow start up is due to old fuel and maybe a clogged filter as finding someone who knows what K-Jetronics is let alone how to service it will be little short of a miracle.
I was thinking rear wishbone bushes and gearbox mounts but a look at the MOT suggests subframe bushes and front prop' shaft rubber. Not a bad guess. I hope the slow start up is due to old fuel and maybe a clogged filter as finding someone who knows what K-Jetronics is let alone how to service it will be little short of a miracle.
Where does one look for the obsolete? Somewhere technology hasn't caught up. Somewhere people still stare at planes. Somewhere Radio One's BIG WEEKEND hasn't been.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/REBUILD-KIT-TO-REPAIR-BO...
Norwich.
I have subframe bushes and prop' rubbers on my watch list as well.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/REBUILD-KIT-TO-REPAIR-BO...
Norwich.
I have subframe bushes and prop' rubbers on my watch list as well.
That's why so many Bosch cars end up in the scrap heap as there are fewer and fewer people about who know what they are looking at. Similar to carb's; tn fifteen years ago you could get a pair of Webers stripped and rebuilt in a few hours at your local garage now you need to send them to Australia and back.
Hand painted two tone red. The lower half appears to be some kind of household gloss.
Remarkably straight with only a couple of rust spots on the top wheel arches.
Tiny radiator considering the frontal area of the car.
I can hear my own echo around the engine.
A gentle push on the choke flap to feel if the diaphragm is consistent. It is but the seal isn't great so a once round with WD40 and a toothbrush and she starts a lot easier now.
Hand painted two tone red. The lower half appears to be some kind of household gloss.
Remarkably straight with only a couple of rust spots on the top wheel arches.
Tiny radiator considering the frontal area of the car.
I can hear my own echo around the engine.
A gentle push on the choke flap to feel if the diaphragm is consistent. It is but the seal isn't great so a once round with WD40 and a toothbrush and she starts a lot easier now.
Cold (1'C with ice on the bonnet roof and windscreens) start this morning took twenty eight minutes (eighteen via jump leads on the works van).
Warm start this afternoon (13'C) took seven minutes.
I think I could have cold injector issue or temperature sensor.
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w201-190-class/166...
Either that or I need a carb'.
Warm start this afternoon (13'C) took seven minutes.
I think I could have cold injector issue or temperature sensor.
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w201-190-class/166...
Either that or I need a carb'.
Started with the obvious. Rotor arm and cap are both brand new and bone dry.
I took the temperature sensor out of the air box and with a hair drier and multimeter to check resistance it works fine.
Now the engine is warm so she's on a button with a little throttle to open the choke.
Now the hunt begins for the fuel filter. The car is fueling well but I'll fit a new one as she's only done 300 miles since the M.O.T last July. I suspect it's full of degraded sludge and could be a contributing factor.
I took the temperature sensor out of the air box and with a hair drier and multimeter to check resistance it works fine.
Now the engine is warm so she's on a button with a little throttle to open the choke.
Now the hunt begins for the fuel filter. The car is fueling well but I'll fit a new one as she's only done 300 miles since the M.O.T last July. I suspect it's full of degraded sludge and could be a contributing factor.
50p per CC?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mercedes-S-Class-S500-W2...
I'll get my tape measure and some Duct Tape.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mercedes-S-Class-S500-W2...
I'll get my tape measure and some Duct Tape.
V12 AMG said:
Are you searching for the fuel filter on your car or for a replacement part?
The filter is strapped to the fuel pump underneath the car in front of the rear suspension. Small plastic cover over it. Couple of plastic 10mm nuts hold it on.
Both. I even had the back seat and boot liner out thinking was in the tank. I have an E36 M3 fuel filter I think that might fit. The filter is strapped to the fuel pump underneath the car in front of the rear suspension. Small plastic cover over it. Couple of plastic 10mm nuts hold it on.
I noticed the plastic cover and I had forgotten how good the rear subframe set up was.
As for V8 conversions. I was looking for a simple solution, so V8 with a distributor and either carb'/carb's or K-jet' set up so in theory it could be a plug in and play job (how many times has someone said that and three years later still not got it running?). 80's V8's from a 380SL maybe. That way all I will have to do is swap the 1 for a 3 on the boot.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mercedes-sl-w107-380sl-e...
That engine had less than twelve hours to go and I was the winning bidder at 99p.
I can't think why it was ended and re-listed.
That engine had less than twelve hours to go and I was the winning bidder at 99p.
I can't think why it was ended and re-listed.
eBay message said:
Hoi you time wasting tosspot! Set a 
reserve.
reserve.ShampooEfficient said:
I have two 190 projects, and I wholeheartedly approve of this one. Any time you're in Teesside, give me a shout...
Also there's a load of technical info on the owners forum, I cant remember the site so Google "Mercedes 190 UK"...
By all means everyone add to this thread with your projects as between paydays I don't really get a lot done. This month has paid for the car so a couple of bits from my shed and a keyring will be about it. Also there's a load of technical info on the owners forum, I cant remember the site so Google "Mercedes 190 UK"...
Okay the M3 filter is completely different. Typically. As it's under cover the one on the car it could be deceptively clean. The car runs perfectly one started so I'm 90% sure it isn't a filter issue. I'm also 50/50 about the K-Jet' diaphragm. I'll see if I can get the injectors out and test them. The cold injector will be first.
So yesterday I tested the airbox temperature probe and found it works. So I've placed it in a cup of frozen sweetcorn...
...unplugged the injector and rigged up the multimeter...
...5.36V was the best spike.
I took the injector off completely and rigged it up to an old bike battery. It clicked open just fine and I could blow through it easily so it isn't blocked or knackered. I put it back on the car to test start again...
...no fuel spray at all. Not even a dribble.
So either I chilled the wrong probe and it needs to be the one next to the thermostat (I'll let the car cool and run the meter over the injector plug again) or there's a circuit/loom/ecu issue stopping the cold injector from working. I wonder if I can rig the cold injector to a manual push button.
Turn the key.
Push the button to open the cold injector.
Car starts.
Could be worth looking into.
...unplugged the injector and rigged up the multimeter...
...5.36V was the best spike.
I took the injector off completely and rigged it up to an old bike battery. It clicked open just fine and I could blow through it easily so it isn't blocked or knackered. I put it back on the car to test start again...
...no fuel spray at all. Not even a dribble.
So either I chilled the wrong probe and it needs to be the one next to the thermostat (I'll let the car cool and run the meter over the injector plug again) or there's a circuit/loom/ecu issue stopping the cold injector from working. I wonder if I can rig the cold injector to a manual push button.
Turn the key.
Push the button to open the cold injector.
Car starts.
Could be worth looking into.
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