M113 V8/SLK55 hot starting niggle - advice
Discussion
Hi all
ive got a 2005 SLK 55.
over the last year or so it's getting harder to start when hot. Example, fuel stop, takes a few attempts to get it going. If left for 30min+ then easier to get going.
when luke warm or cold, starts on the button.
So, anyone got a steer. I think I've read this could be the start of the demise of the crank or camshaft sensor.
Other than this niggle, battery and other things are tip top.
let me know views and thoughts!
ive got a 2005 SLK 55.
over the last year or so it's getting harder to start when hot. Example, fuel stop, takes a few attempts to get it going. If left for 30min+ then easier to get going.
when luke warm or cold, starts on the button.
So, anyone got a steer. I think I've read this could be the start of the demise of the crank or camshaft sensor.
Other than this niggle, battery and other things are tip top.
let me know views and thoughts!
Cheers, yep i had suspected Crank Position sensor and reading a fair bit online in last 24hrs, symptoms i've got are identical.
Euro Car Parts got a sale on from now until 30Sep2016 whereby 30% off for online order, so got a Bosch one, all in, incl euro car parts delivery driver & VAT to my door within 3 hours for £48!
Main stealer wanted £110 incl VAT for the same part just in an MBenz bag.
Crazy
Will fit in the coming week and hopefully that'll solve it. Thanks for replying Jim.
Euro Car Parts got a sale on from now until 30Sep2016 whereby 30% off for online order, so got a Bosch one, all in, incl euro car parts delivery driver & VAT to my door within 3 hours for £48!
Main stealer wanted £110 incl VAT for the same part just in an MBenz bag.
Crazy
Will fit in the coming week and hopefully that'll solve it. Thanks for replying Jim.
From start to Finish took about 3 hours. If attempted again would be half that time, as spent alot of time just looking, guessing what to do, what to move out the way.
Just posting this in case this thread is searched for in the future on PH.
Sensor is located here:
behind left bank cylinder head, i thought access would be better from underneath but no chance. Only accessable from the top. It is buried deep deep. On larger engine bays might be easier, but in the SLK it's a real squeeze. Jokes aside if you have big hands, would be very difficult.
All airbox and pipework needs to be removed, and MAF sensor and pipes, plus the majority of the wiring loom behind the engine needs unclipping (cable tied to engine block via cable tie mounts, replace all cable ties when reassembling). If you can get everything out of the way per the above black and white photo, then you'll be okay.
The red lines i crudely added to the photo are to show the raised sides of the bolt location and the only socket that will fit is a 1/4" Drive deep 'slim' socket like this:
the correct size is E8 Torx. However, i found upon removal an old imperial 1/4" in size fits perfectly and snaps straight on the torx bolt like it was meant to be.
Access is incredibly awkward, if you have wobbly head drives and CV joint style bar joins, then the job will be a lot easier.
Its a D.I.Y but you need a decent tool kit and fair amount of patience. I can see why a main dealer would charge £250 Inc Fitting.
Adam.
Just posting this in case this thread is searched for in the future on PH.
Sensor is located here:
behind left bank cylinder head, i thought access would be better from underneath but no chance. Only accessable from the top. It is buried deep deep. On larger engine bays might be easier, but in the SLK it's a real squeeze. Jokes aside if you have big hands, would be very difficult.
All airbox and pipework needs to be removed, and MAF sensor and pipes, plus the majority of the wiring loom behind the engine needs unclipping (cable tied to engine block via cable tie mounts, replace all cable ties when reassembling). If you can get everything out of the way per the above black and white photo, then you'll be okay.
The red lines i crudely added to the photo are to show the raised sides of the bolt location and the only socket that will fit is a 1/4" Drive deep 'slim' socket like this:
the correct size is E8 Torx. However, i found upon removal an old imperial 1/4" in size fits perfectly and snaps straight on the torx bolt like it was meant to be.
Access is incredibly awkward, if you have wobbly head drives and CV joint style bar joins, then the job will be a lot easier.
Its a D.I.Y but you need a decent tool kit and fair amount of patience. I can see why a main dealer would charge £250 Inc Fitting.
Adam.
It didn't fix the issue. I had the car on a CTEK charger so thought the battery was good. Turned out it was a duff battery, well it was the original 2005 oem fitted battery and it lasted until this original post period.
The symptoms I had at the time were identical in every way to the crank sensor starting to give up the ghost.
After a new battery was fitted the problem went away. I left the new crank sensor in anyway as it was over 10 years old the one it replaced, so was likely to start giving issues at some point anyway.
The symptoms I had at the time were identical in every way to the crank sensor starting to give up the ghost.
After a new battery was fitted the problem went away. I left the new crank sensor in anyway as it was over 10 years old the one it replaced, so was likely to start giving issues at some point anyway.
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