Best ALFA 105 GTV spec

[alex_p]

Hi All,

I'm about to buy a 105 GTV and have a choice of models.

I'd always assumed the 2000 was the ultimate incarnation of the car, however, I'm hearing whispers that the 1750 might actually be the one to have...

I know that condition is all important and should really be the deciding factor, however, assuming the two cars are identical, is the 1750 or 2000 king?

I personally prefer the 1750 interior, smaller rear lights and overall slightly more "dainty" feel, however, the car has to be an investment to a certain extent, and I'd be more than happy with either model at the end of the day.

Which should I go for and what are the desirable bits to keep an eye out for, such as wheels, bumper styles, seats, etc.?

Any links will be much appreciated.

Thanks

[alex_p]

Thanks for the input, Rosso 1750 it probably is then!

[alex_p]

Hi Mitch, thanks very much for the information, it is very interesting to hear from someone who has good experience of both.

I've got the choice from a couple of Condition 1 2000s or a 1750 Mk2 for the same price.

I prefer the purity of the 1750; the quarter light openers, internal door handles, centre console, dashboard, rear lights and grille all jump out to me. The gold cloverleaf badges also look great!

The 1750 has an LSD fitted and I think I could have a choice of final drive ratio, if you've got a recommendation?

I've driven a 1600 and 2000 back-to-back and noticed the difference in power and torque, I got both up to about 70mph and they cruised equally well, so I think I could easily live with somewhere in between for the kind of driving I'd do.

I'll drive the 1750 and a 2000 to make my final decision, but I think I can go with my heart and head on this!

Thanks,

Alex

[alex_p]

Thanks once again, I'll stick with the standard ratio as this will be mainly used as a a fast road car and tourer.

[alex_p]

I really like the simplicity of the Juniors as I feel it shows off the lines of the car best, especially the Scalino.

Saying that, the interior is just a little bit too simple for me and, although plenty have been converted (even 'in period') to 1750 and 2000 engines, I personally prefer things to be as standard as possible.

As I've got to keep one eye on this as an investment, something stock with matching numbers makes that a bit easier.

[alex_p]

The 1750 is rust free; I've been under it on a lift and it looks like new. It has now been lightly undersealed but there are pictures to back up the original condition.

Apparently the engine number is listed alongside the VIN in the original bill of sale, which matches the numbers on the car.

This can is too original and I love the Nord engine too much to swap it for a TS. I had a TS in a 156 and really rate it, but I just want a late '60s car to drive like one, and this includes pumping the throttle to prime the Webers as far as I'm concerned!

[alex_p]

I didn't realise the last of the TS in the 156 wasn't the same as the unit in the 75. I loved my 156 and realised that the JTS wasn't an improvement when I drove my mate's later car.

I'm not ruling out some reversible mods such as a different exhaust system, induction kit and electronic ignition, however I know the car in standard form is more capable than me, so why make it faster when I can only utilise it in a straight line?!

I'm pretty sure I've found the car for me and I think I can probably have so input into the details of how it's finished, so it'll be damn near perfect in my eyes.

What oil pressure should I be getting at a warm (just below 80) idle, and is a bit of blue oily smoke on over-run a big issue? I've not seen this car running yet but the others I drove sat at about (if I remember correctly) the top of the lowest major division on the gauge, (20psi?) idling warn and gave a bit of a puff on over-run.

I'll put some pics up in a few weeks when I hopefully have the car.

[alex_p]

Thanks again Mitch, it looked like worn valve guides to me, or possibly sticky control rings.

Good news on the oil pressure, gives me an idea of what to look for.

To be honest, the car will do less than 3k miles a year and I'll always check the level before using it (I used to have a FIAT Coupe 20VT so this is a near religious devotion for me!), so if it burns a bit more than usual it isn't the end of the world.