GTV V6 dliemma....
Discussion
Looking for some thoughts on a GTV i am considering - it is priced quite low and the seller has confirmed the cambelt, tensioners and idlers were changed in 2011 - the car has done circa 30k since the work. They cannot confirm if the waterpump was done. Given the usual increments are every 60k or 4 years whichever arrives first I am of the impression it would need replacing about now - cost likely £1k.
The car has not had any rear suspension work done - not that i know it needs it as i haven't test driven it, but it has done over 120k so it quite possibly will need some bushes.
Other than that it has lacquer peel and faded door mirrors so will need at least a partial respray in the future. On the plus side it has 12 month mot and some recent work on the brakes and steering.
The car would be for weekends only so a bit of project is not an issue, however with the work i would want to do is it better to wait for another one to become available which has had these things done? On the flip side with this car i would at least have peace of mind that my choice of work is carried out...
Car is up at £2.5k and will likely need at least £2k spending on it in the next 12 months.... false economy?
The car has not had any rear suspension work done - not that i know it needs it as i haven't test driven it, but it has done over 120k so it quite possibly will need some bushes.
Other than that it has lacquer peel and faded door mirrors so will need at least a partial respray in the future. On the plus side it has 12 month mot and some recent work on the brakes and steering.
The car would be for weekends only so a bit of project is not an issue, however with the work i would want to do is it better to wait for another one to become available which has had these things done? On the flip side with this car i would at least have peace of mind that my choice of work is carried out...
Car is up at £2.5k and will likely need at least £2k spending on it in the next 12 months.... false economy?
Good advice thanks - i have actually just spoken with them! £850 for cambelt & waterpump, £550 for powerflex rear bushes - not including rose joints which if needed would be another £500 or so... not too bad really..
kapiteinlangzaam said:
£2.5k for a running/driving car in otherwise good condition with the aforementioned work needing to be done is
a) fair
or
b) cheap
Values are only going one way.
If its never had any suspension work done, you could easily be in for >1K worth of work though. Autolusso do some great (and good value) work, sort of mini-restos on these cars, so id be inclined to give them a ring.
a) fair
or
b) cheap
Values are only going one way.
If its never had any suspension work done, you could easily be in for >1K worth of work though. Autolusso do some great (and good value) work, sort of mini-restos on these cars, so id be inclined to give them a ring.
Yes good point - i suppose even with a car that has the work done there are no guarantees still...
this one has invoices for the following;
clutch
flywheel
battery
downpipe
cv boot
cv joint
discs 7 pads
MAF
brake pipes
I guess you just look for any knocks or rattles and play in the steering on a test drive...
If the rest of the car is v. good, id say thats fine value.
£5k upfront will also buy an already sorted car, so it depends how much of the 'project' aspect you want to invest in.....
At £2k, you might be happier. Try a decent haggle!
(also bear in mind at the age and mileage, front wishbones, suspension shocks/springs etc etc all also might need work).
this one has invoices for the following;
clutch
flywheel
battery
downpipe
cv boot
cv joint
discs 7 pads
MAF
brake pipes
I guess you just look for any knocks or rattles and play in the steering on a test drive...
kapiteinlangzaam said:
ST270 said:
Good advice thanks - i have actually just spoken with them! £850 for cambelt & waterpump, £550 for powerflex rear bushes - not including rose joints which if needed would be another £500 or so... not too bad really..
So it looks like you could be about £4-5k in to the car all said and done kapiteinlangzaam said:
£2.5k for a running/driving car in otherwise good condition with the aforementioned work needing to be done is
a) fair
or
b) cheap
Values are only going one way.
If its never had any suspension work done, you could easily be in for >1K worth of work though. Autolusso do some great (and good value) work, sort of mini-restos on these cars, so id be inclined to give them a ring.
a) fair
or
b) cheap
Values are only going one way.
If its never had any suspension work done, you could easily be in for >1K worth of work though. Autolusso do some great (and good value) work, sort of mini-restos on these cars, so id be inclined to give them a ring.
If the rest of the car is v. good, id say thats fine value.
£5k upfront will also buy an already sorted car, so it depends how much of the 'project' aspect you want to invest in.....
At £2k, you might be happier. Try a decent haggle!
(also bear in mind at the age and mileage, front wishbones, suspension shocks/springs etc etc all also might need work).
GJR68 said:
I've owned a 3.2V6 GTV for 5 years now and been through all the pain !
Diff failures are certainly not a myth. It's not a certainty but if they do go then a gearbox rebuild will make for an expensive bill.
I think the belt failure paranoia has largely the Twin Spark to blame which certainly did have an issue. Bely failure on V6's is unusual but I wouldn't push it much past 5 years.
Water pump is again a risk management argument. Failure can be terminal. Do it while you do the timing belt makes sense.
Oil cooler pipes are a weak point and a full replacement should be factored in.
Electrics are weak. Often, cleaning relay connections etc can solve extensive replacement.
Corrosion can be poor but not a major factor.
Airbag light is a Pain in the a*se but has a fix.
Radiator will last 5 years max.
CF3's with their precat's can fry the ECU and Head Gasket due to heat build up at the rear bank.Switching over to CF2's will give a useful 20bhp and reduce the heat issue.
Thanks for the info and forgive my ignorance but CF2 and CF3 - can you elaborate?Diff failures are certainly not a myth. It's not a certainty but if they do go then a gearbox rebuild will make for an expensive bill.
I think the belt failure paranoia has largely the Twin Spark to blame which certainly did have an issue. Bely failure on V6's is unusual but I wouldn't push it much past 5 years.
Water pump is again a risk management argument. Failure can be terminal. Do it while you do the timing belt makes sense.
Oil cooler pipes are a weak point and a full replacement should be factored in.
Electrics are weak. Often, cleaning relay connections etc can solve extensive replacement.
Corrosion can be poor but not a major factor.
Airbag light is a Pain in the a*se but has a fix.
Radiator will last 5 years max.
CF3's with their precat's can fry the ECU and Head Gasket due to heat build up at the rear bank.Switching over to CF2's will give a useful 20bhp and reduce the heat issue.
As you say things like oil cooler pipes and weak electrics which can be tricky to diagnose are issues one might not consider and could be expensive. Even though I am considering the car as a weekend one only these all have to be considered really...
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