The Targa Hood Is Off! - Rivets & Glue?
Discussion
When I bought my Chim 6 months ago, the rear edge and sides of the targa had some fraying so, after driving the car through the summer 
I have contacted a local sailmaker who said they can stick some matching edging tape on for about £80.00 if I take the hoods off.
Today I decided it was time for "The Shadow" to go topless!
The Bible was not overly helpful on this one so I have read the forums on both PH and TVRCC and established that the following needed to be removed/Disconnected:
2 screws holding trim in boot to access nuts
5 nuts/hex bolts holding base of targa to car (easier said than done)
Interior light wires (I removed the pins from the plug to be able to withdraw the wires)
2 Nuts from the alloy support braces
Separated the velcro at either side
Removed the 2 main swivel bots (one each side behind the doors)
And lo and behold the bugger wouldn't come off!
It took me about 10 minutes to figure out that there are 2 more small screws, one at either side of the targe but on the inside of the hood which makes them VERY difficult to get at and almost impossible to see unless you know they're there.
Once those were out, the whole taga section just lifted off.
I'll be off to the sailmakers on Thursday to discuss if they need the hood stipped off the frame or whether they can do this in situ.
I've found that one of the pieces of velco that's rivetted and glued to the body has ripped hence the hood was not sticking properly at the sides.
2 questions:
Are the small rivets anything special or can I just use standard alloy head rivets (and paint the heads black?
What is the best glue to use to stick down the replacement velcro?
I have contacted a local sailmaker who said they can stick some matching edging tape on for about £80.00 if I take the hoods off. Today I decided it was time for "The Shadow" to go topless!
The Bible was not overly helpful on this one so I have read the forums on both PH and TVRCC and established that the following needed to be removed/Disconnected:
2 screws holding trim in boot to access nuts
5 nuts/hex bolts holding base of targa to car (easier said than done)
Interior light wires (I removed the pins from the plug to be able to withdraw the wires)
2 Nuts from the alloy support braces
Separated the velcro at either side
Removed the 2 main swivel bots (one each side behind the doors)
And lo and behold the bugger wouldn't come off!
It took me about 10 minutes to figure out that there are 2 more small screws, one at either side of the targe but on the inside of the hood which makes them VERY difficult to get at and almost impossible to see unless you know they're there.
Once those were out, the whole taga section just lifted off.
I'll be off to the sailmakers on Thursday to discuss if they need the hood stipped off the frame or whether they can do this in situ.
I've found that one of the pieces of velco that's rivetted and glued to the body has ripped hence the hood was not sticking properly at the sides.
2 questions:
Are the small rivets anything special or can I just use standard alloy head rivets (and paint the heads black?
What is the best glue to use to stick down the replacement velcro?
Edited by tyre_tread on Monday 27th November 09:28
Standard everyday alu. rivets-you can buy black headed ones or just paint them.
Several glues can be used,needs to be a strong glue to cope with the weather/temp.Evostic-comes in tube form(red packet),superglue(dont get it on the body though because it turns white) or an epoxy resin-all can be bought from halfrauds-if its a good one.I tend to use Evostic as we use it on the Beamer Z3 rear screens to glue the fabric down and its free!
Several glues can be used,needs to be a strong glue to cope with the weather/temp.Evostic-comes in tube form(red packet),superglue(dont get it on the body though because it turns white) or an epoxy resin-all can be bought from halfrauds-if its a good one.I tend to use Evostic as we use it on the Beamer Z3 rear screens to glue the fabric down and its free!
blackspider said:
Standard everyday alu. rivets-you can buy black headed ones or just paint them.
Several glues can be used,needs to be a strong glue to cope with the weather/temp.Evostic-comes in tube form(red packet),superglue(dont get it on the body though because it turns white) or an epoxy resin-all can be bought from halfrauds-if its a good one.I tend to use Evostic as we use it on the Beamer Z3 rear screens to glue the fabric down and its free!
Several glues can be used,needs to be a strong glue to cope with the weather/temp.Evostic-comes in tube form(red packet),superglue(dont get it on the body though because it turns white) or an epoxy resin-all can be bought from halfrauds-if its a good one.I tend to use Evostic as we use it on the Beamer Z3 rear screens to glue the fabric down and its free!
Cheers Blackspider. I have a selection of glue types as I do a fair bit of DIY. I will probably go for the epoxy. I wasn't sure if it would damage the glassfibre resin of the tub that's all.
tyre_tread said:
Flintstone said:
Top tip coming up.........
Put a small(ish) washer under each rivet head before firing them into place. It spreads the load and stops the velcro pulling off.
Put a small(ish) washer under each rivet head before firing them into place. It spreads the load and stops the velcro pulling off.
I'd already figured that one although i was thinking of also using a stiff rubber larger washer as well.
Belt 'n braces.
Good man, like the way yer thinking.
Hi fellas, jumped across from the S forum, my rear screen and hoop frames are off at the moment. Having a new screen fitted, quoted 60 quid, I noticed that the velcro on the Chimaera has rivets for extra grip, top tip coming up, make sure that the rivet is the right size for the hole and the correct length. If the rivet is to short it will put to much pressure on the hole as you form the rivet which can damage the fibre glass. If the rivet is to long, it will not pull down on the velcro, hope this is of help to someone,
stevej
stevej
steve j said:
Hi fellas, jumped across from the S forum, my rear screen and hoop frames are off at the moment. Having a new screen fitted, quoted 60 quid, I noticed that the velcro on the Chimaera has rivets for extra grip, top tip coming up, make sure that the rivet is the right size for the hole and the correct length. If the rivet is to short it will put to much pressure on the hole as you form the rivet which can damage the fibre glass. If the rivet is to long, it will not pull down on the velcro, hope this is of help to someone,
stevej
stevej
Steve, that is a top tip!!! Don't suppose you know "the Correct length" or does that depend on how much fibreglass was spare on the day my car was made?
Hi Alan, I don`t know the thickness of the fibreglass, time for another tip. Take a short piece of stiff steel wire/rod 2 or 3 inches long and put a 90 degree bend at one end, trim off any excess so the bent piece can be fed into the rivet hole. Gently pull the wire/rod so the bent piece is touching the underside of the fibreglass, mark the wire/rod where it protrudes and remove the wire and that is your thickness. As for the rivet length, pull a couple of different lengths i.e. form them outside of the hole. I hope this makes sense to you.
stevej
stevej
steve j said:
Hi Alan, I don`t know the thickness of the fibreglass, time for another tip. Take a short piece of stiff steel wire/rod 2 or 3 inches long and put a 90 degree bend at one end, trim off any excess so the bent piece can be fed into the rivet hole. Gently pull the wire/rod so the bent piece is touching the underside of the fibreglass, mark the wire/rod where it protrudes and remove the wire and that is your thickness. As for the rivet length, pull a couple of different lengths i.e. form them outside of the hole. I hope this makes sense to you.
stevej
stevej
Thanks again Steve, prett much a process I've used many times in the past to gauge depth.
I am a bit wary of putting strain on the 'glass and inducing stress cracks as I've not really worked with Fibreglass before.
Tyre Tread
Having gone to all the trouble of removing the rear section you should do a proper job and have new mohair fitted instead of a patching up job - I don't think it will last long and will look very home-nade IMO. It will devalue your car if you ever go to sell it.
If a job's worth doing it's worth doing right IMO.
Ricardo
Having gone to all the trouble of removing the rear section you should do a proper job and have new mohair fitted instead of a patching up job - I don't think it will last long and will look very home-nade IMO. It will devalue your car if you ever go to sell it.
If a job's worth doing it's worth doing right IMO.
Ricardo
Ricardo Bertone said:
Tyre Tread
Having gone to all the trouble of removing the rear section you should do a proper job and have new mohair fitted instead of a patching up job - I don't think it will last long and will look very home-nade IMO. It will devalue your car if you ever go to sell it.
If a job's worth doing it's worth doing right IMO.
Ricardo
Having gone to all the trouble of removing the rear section you should do a proper job and have new mohair fitted instead of a patching up job - I don't think it will last long and will look very home-nade IMO. It will devalue your car if you ever go to sell it.
If a job's worth doing it's worth doing right IMO.
Ricardo
Thank you for your opinion! I'm sure the pictures, when done, will answer that.
Edited by tyre_tread on Thursday 30th November 14:15
poorpeet said:
Daft question but is it just bog standard velcro or is it special automotive stuff?
Is it easy to get?
Is it easy to get?
It seesm to have quite a plasticky backing. I will be talking to the sailmakers as they should know every trick in the book on this!
Unless someone on her can answer that question
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