Toyota Celica 1.8 VVTLi - what to look for?
Discussion
Hi all,
A friend of mine is looking at a 2002 Celica (190bhp) at the weekend, and both myself and another mate are going to go with him. It's been fun searching through all sorts of classifieds to find the car but I seem to now be perceived as an expert in the art of second-hand motor purchasing, when to be honest I really don't know that much. Beyond checking the oil filler cap for mayonnaise and the exhaust for blue smoke, I'm pretty useless.
Has anyone with previous experience of Celicas any recommendations for what to look for? We've done the HPI check and all is clear, and I understand they did well in the JD Power surveys, so what else is there to check?
Hopefully the car's decent - it's up near Leeds and we live in Notts, so we've planned a Peaks roadtrip on Sunday if it all goes to plan!
A friend of mine is looking at a 2002 Celica (190bhp) at the weekend, and both myself and another mate are going to go with him. It's been fun searching through all sorts of classifieds to find the car but I seem to now be perceived as an expert in the art of second-hand motor purchasing, when to be honest I really don't know that much. Beyond checking the oil filler cap for mayonnaise and the exhaust for blue smoke, I'm pretty useless.
Has anyone with previous experience of Celicas any recommendations for what to look for? We've done the HPI check and all is clear, and I understand they did well in the JD Power surveys, so what else is there to check?
Hopefully the car's decent - it's up near Leeds and we live in Notts, so we've planned a Peaks roadtrip on Sunday if it all goes to plan!
Baffled Spoon said:
These engines can suffer from a common problem where the pre-cats fail, destroying the engine in the process. Facelift cars don't have this problem, and neither do the 190 Celicas. Check carefully for signs the car is burning oil.
The 190bhp VVTL-i engine doesn't have a reputation for being an oil-burner, either.Only things to look out for with the VVTL-i is that the lift engages at 6,200rpm.
If it doesn't, chances are the lift bolts are knackered which isn't the end of the world, but is best avoided.
When you find one where the lift engages properly, if it's a pre-facelift car check the service history for any evidence that the "lift bolts" have been changed, or ask the owner.
If you're in any doubt about it, it's not expensive to get the lift bolts changed. The facelifted engines had tapered lift bolts that weren't prone to breakage like the early ones. Replacing them before they break is cheap. Replacing them after they break isn't.
Rag it up to the redline when the engine is warm to check the cam lift works.
Check for reciepts for lift bolts. Not essential but useful.
If you hear a pitched squeeling sound on start up the auxilary belts will need changing.
Engine oil isn't a problem on the 190.
Look for an 03 reg car if you can.
Check for reciepts for lift bolts. Not essential but useful.
If you hear a pitched squeeling sound on start up the auxilary belts will need changing.
Engine oil isn't a problem on the 190.
Look for an 03 reg car if you can.
was in your position this time last year , settled on its brother the corolla , ultimate sleeper before i modded anyway and A LOT cheaper to insure with the same engine.
like everyone else said , take it all the way to 8200rpm ,at 6200rpm in 2nd gear you will feel it kick and the see the bonnet rise as you home in on the rev limit
other than that check all the usual bits.
im sure someone will come along as say the engine is gutless and has zero torque,rubbish !cars have gears you just move two body parts and its away .keeping under 6200rpm you are going fast enough in daily work runs.
mpg aint the best , 27-30mpg real world avg
like everyone else said , take it all the way to 8200rpm ,at 6200rpm in 2nd gear you will feel it kick and the see the bonnet rise as you home in on the rev limit
other than that check all the usual bits.
im sure someone will come along as say the engine is gutless and has zero torque,rubbish !cars have gears you just move two body parts and its away .keeping under 6200rpm you are going fast enough in daily work runs.
mpg aint the best , 27-30mpg real world avg
These are great cars and if you find a good one it will serve you very well.
Problems......
Alarm. Watch out for the seller locking it with the key and not the remote as this stops a faulty alarm from sounding after 10 mins. Be aware though that items like coins in the cupholders can set the alarm off.
Tensioner pulleys causing slight "chirping" at idle when cold. Acually you might only ever hear this on a cold morning but it is a common fault that will drive you bonkers as it gets worse.
Rusty hubs and brakes and corroded or buckled alloys.
Timing chain should have been checked at 100k.....
They can be very tatty underneath though usually sound. Worth getting someone who knows what they are doing with suspension components to have a check.
Recall for petrol tank filler on some preface lift cars.
Recall on a very limited run of pre facelift models due to a spot weld fail by a faulty robot on the production line. Rear quarter panel (I think).
Engine will only go to lift when warm, so make sure to warm the car up before testing.
Rev out in 1st and shift quickly into second. If the gearchange "baulks" at all walk away.
Raspy intake noise is also a common fault and expensive repair.
If the tyres are low on tread there maybe excessive road noise.
That's about it and the car I had returned 40mpg. I had it for 7 years and I still miss it. Poor brakes but one of the best "wrong" wheel drives i've ever owned.
Problems......
Alarm. Watch out for the seller locking it with the key and not the remote as this stops a faulty alarm from sounding after 10 mins. Be aware though that items like coins in the cupholders can set the alarm off.
Tensioner pulleys causing slight "chirping" at idle when cold. Acually you might only ever hear this on a cold morning but it is a common fault that will drive you bonkers as it gets worse.
Rusty hubs and brakes and corroded or buckled alloys.
Timing chain should have been checked at 100k.....
They can be very tatty underneath though usually sound. Worth getting someone who knows what they are doing with suspension components to have a check.
Recall for petrol tank filler on some preface lift cars.
Recall on a very limited run of pre facelift models due to a spot weld fail by a faulty robot on the production line. Rear quarter panel (I think).
Engine will only go to lift when warm, so make sure to warm the car up before testing.
Rev out in 1st and shift quickly into second. If the gearchange "baulks" at all walk away.
Raspy intake noise is also a common fault and expensive repair.
If the tyres are low on tread there maybe excessive road noise.
That's about it and the car I had returned 40mpg. I had it for 7 years and I still miss it. Poor brakes but one of the best "wrong" wheel drives i've ever owned.
The one I drove was very hard to keep on cam, it was reluctant to slot into 3rd, and even when you did get it right, most of the time it dropped out of the cam zone temporarily, such was its tall gearing and difficulty in getting into gear. Ruined the car for me, TBH. Could have been a pup, I admit. Seemed in good condition though...
te standard springs .deadmau5 said:
V8A*ndy said:
Rev out in 1st and shift quickly into second. If the gearchange "baulks" at all walk away.
Baulk ring speeds up and slows down to allow the gear to change smoothly (Synchromesh). if there is a crunch or "baulk" then it's had a hard life.
In all seriousness I will be looking out the "16v" Saxo of "MPower" badges that barryboys seem to buy from Halfords these days...Gassing Station | General Gassing | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff