Help! Datatool alarm
Discussion
if the fobs don't work but you know they have power move the bike back inside and try it there. Sometimes you get something else transmitting on the same frequency as your fob but with more power. This effectively drowns out your fob. Simply moving away from or blocking the other frequency can stop it. This would be a bit odd though given that it sounds like its at your house. Worth a try though???
Edited by Ruttager on Wednesday 3rd August 19:08
This might help, read it a bit for the solution
http://www.therevcounter.com/mechanics/36448-datat...
http://www.therevcounter.com/mechanics/36448-datat...
daimatt said:
This might help, read it a bit for the solution
http://www.therevcounter.com/mechanics/36448-datat...
Wow, just read that what a PITA. I loathe bike alarms. http://www.therevcounter.com/mechanics/36448-datat...
Ruttager said:
Sometimes you get something else transmitting on the same frequency as your fob but with more power. This effectively drowns out your fob. ?
On recent ride a few us with Datatool alarms had just that problem in a petrol station. We both had to push our bikes about 100yards down the road before they would re-set. Pretty s
t really as I've never had that problem with any other alarm.This may help..once they start playing up, rip it out is the best option..technical data/instructions on the datatool site if that helps
http://www.datatool.co.uk/consumer/support/index.p...
http://www.datatool.co.uk/consumer/support/index.p...
podman said:
This may help..once they start playing up, rip it out is the best option..technical data/instructions on the datatool site if that helps
http://www.datatool.co.uk/consumer/support/index.p...
Cheers for the link I'll have a read through those. Ive got the plastics off the side now and access to the alarm unit but it has those little annoying screws with the dot in the centre of the hole so you cant use a normal screw driver.http://www.datatool.co.uk/consumer/support/index.p...
Ive got the battery out of the bike now and about ten mins later the alarm stopped. The only problem is now if I put the battery back in to try anything the alarm goes off straight away. Mr Stanley knife could be coming out very soon at this rate!!!
Here is the b
d.
Andy XRV said:
On recent ride a few us with Datatool alarms had just that problem in a petrol station. We both had to push our bikes about 100yards down the road before they would re-set. Pretty st really as I've never had that problem with any other alarm.
It does this at the shell on the a20 London bound just before mottingham! Not every time for me, but does for my wife's bike. Also does it where I park my bike by the train lines, but only if a train is approaching.t really as I've never had that problem with any other alarm.Fats25 said:
It does this at the shell on the a20 London bound just before mottingham! Not every time for me, but does for my wife's bike. Also does it where I park my bike by the train lines, but only if a train is approaching.
Its because of mobile telephone masts and other interference, not just a datatool issue, any alarm ,car or bike, can suffer from this problem, my frien parked his motor up near a military base soem years ago and the remote wouldnt un-lock the doors, signal was being drowned out from other "noise"Fats25 said:
Andy XRV said:
On recent ride a few us with Datatool alarms had just that problem in a petrol station. We both had to push our bikes about 100yards down the road before they would re-set. Pretty st really as I've never had that problem with any other alarm.
It does this at the shell on the a20 London bound just before mottingham! Not every time for me, but does for my wife's bike. Also does it where I park my bike by the train lines, but only if a train is approaching.t really as I've never had that problem with any other alarm.
I had a crappy System 3 on my Aprilia.
It would re-arm the immobilisation circuit. I could ride the bike normally, stop and kill the engine with the kill-switch. Kill switch set back to ON. The bike then wouldn't restart until I'd turned the ignition off, armed the alarm, disarmed the alarm and then ignition on again.
That took a lot of wasted time, bewilderment and attempted bump starts to work out.
It would re-arm the immobilisation circuit. I could ride the bike normally, stop and kill the engine with the kill-switch. Kill switch set back to ON. The bike then wouldn't restart until I'd turned the ignition off, armed the alarm, disarmed the alarm and then ignition on again.
That took a lot of wasted time, bewilderment and attempted bump starts to work out.
FartKong said:
Im very tempted in ripping the whole thing out but Im worried the bike will never start again as its all wired into the main loom by the look of it.
They will only have broken a few key circuits (starting and ignition). You could just follow the black wires to see where they go.The other wires will just be power, neutral and connections to flashers.
FartKong said:
Im very tempted in ripping the whole thing out but Im worried the bike will never start again as its all wired into the main loom by the look of it.
It will be.Trace it back to where it's joined in & reconnect the wires in the loom together. You should be able to work out which pair is which from the colour coding, I'd be very surprised if they changed colour where the alarm loom is spliced in.
If you think about it, label each alarm wire with what colour coded wire it was connected too & later find out what they are from a wiring diagram - then you'll be able to see the alarm if you want. You'll need the labels as all alarm wires tend to be black to make life harder for owners while not inconveniencing thieves.
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