Opinions on Single Mass Flywheel conversions
Discussion
Hi all
My wife has an Audi A3, with the as-yet bomb proof TDi 100 engine in it. It's on 136k.
I think it is starting to show the early signs of Dual Mass FLywheel failure (sporadic attempts to stall itself and vibration when holding the clutch 1/4 way down at idle).
I have experience of Valeo clutches and have heard nothing but good things about them, both from forums and from mechanics. So, they seem to offer conversions to Single Mass Flywheels with new clutch kits. Has anyone had this done? Is there an effect on the car? I've heard there may be a vibrating pedal at idle, but I have little or no real-world experience to draw from.
So, PistonHeads, I invite your opinions.
My wife has an Audi A3, with the as-yet bomb proof TDi 100 engine in it. It's on 136k.
I think it is starting to show the early signs of Dual Mass FLywheel failure (sporadic attempts to stall itself and vibration when holding the clutch 1/4 way down at idle).
I have experience of Valeo clutches and have heard nothing but good things about them, both from forums and from mechanics. So, they seem to offer conversions to Single Mass Flywheels with new clutch kits. Has anyone had this done? Is there an effect on the car? I've heard there may be a vibrating pedal at idle, but I have little or no real-world experience to draw from.
So, PistonHeads, I invite your opinions.
One of the unmentioned benefits of the DMF is torsional vibration damping. Older cars often had a damper ring fitted to the front crankshaft pulley for this purpose. Modern cars have this effect built into the DMF and, so the theory goes, if you fit a solid flywheel in place of a DMF you run the risk of crankshaft failure.
I googled this when my wife's X type DMF failed.
Some say they don't have a problem, others get annoying vibrations, some say more powerful cars can break things with a conversion.
I decided that a DMF every 80k wasn't expensive enough to bother taking the risk (got an LUK kit off Ebay for £450)
Some say they don't have a problem, others get annoying vibrations, some say more powerful cars can break things with a conversion.
I decided that a DMF every 80k wasn't expensive enough to bother taking the risk (got an LUK kit off Ebay for £450)
Defcon5 said:
What are the benefits of the dual mass one?
An endless stream of repair work for garages?Our family snotter is a Focus TDCi, which we have owned from new.
DMF failed at 17,000 miles. Cost £700 to fix.
I'm not sure that I would advocate a conversion, due to the crankshaft damper issue.
I simply intend to avoid buying another car with a DMF.
eltax91 said:
Cheers folks. Had a look at valeo kit on euro car parts. Doesn't show one up for my engine code!
Does anybody know of any other reputable suppliers?
Phone them up and ask if they do one, the engine in your car is just a vw group tdi same as fitted to lots of other cars.Does anybody know of any other reputable suppliers?
As its a low power tdi doing quite low miles I would go for the conversion, use a good garage.
I had a lightweight single mass flywheel in my mk2 Golf running an Audi S3 BAM engine. I admit that it wasn't so noticeable when I had a standard G60 flywheel installed, but once I moved to the lightweight wheel I actually thought there was some knocking from the bottom end at first. Thankfully, it was only noticeable when outside the car and was definitely down to the flywheel. Apparently, this is fairly standard.
Lack of maintenance 'win' follows:
My fathers (petrol engined) Volvo 940 Turbo had one. It started rattling at about 130k.
He ignored it.
Aside from an lumpy idle that may or may not have been related) and a godawful rattling when maneuvering, it carried on quite happily until the clutch finally started to slip at 196k. (given that and the mitsubishi turbo putting most of the oil through the engine that was the end of that.)
All this time the car was nearly always loaded up with building materials, regularly towed heavy trailers, and my father doesn't hang about.
So that saved £700+ for a new one
Out of interest what are the potential implications of just ignoring it on a more modern fernickty car?
I was expecting the extra driveline shunt over a period of 66,000+ miles to have knackered the rubber propshaft coupling at least, but it was fine.
My fathers (petrol engined) Volvo 940 Turbo had one. It started rattling at about 130k.
He ignored it.
Aside from an lumpy idle that may or may not have been related) and a godawful rattling when maneuvering, it carried on quite happily until the clutch finally started to slip at 196k. (given that and the mitsubishi turbo putting most of the oil through the engine that was the end of that.)
All this time the car was nearly always loaded up with building materials, regularly towed heavy trailers, and my father doesn't hang about.
So that saved £700+ for a new one
Out of interest what are the potential implications of just ignoring it on a more modern fernickty car?
I was expecting the extra driveline shunt over a period of 66,000+ miles to have knackered the rubber propshaft coupling at least, but it was fine.
chris1roll said:
Lack of maintenance 'win' follows:
My fathers (petrol engined) Volvo 940 Turbo had one. It started rattling at about 130k.
He ignored it.
Aside from an lumpy idle that may or may not have been related) and a godawful rattling when maneuvering, it carried on quite happily until the clutch finally started to slip at 196k. (given that and the mitsubishi turbo putting most of the oil through the engine that was the end of that.)
All this time the car was nearly always loaded up with building materials, regularly towed heavy trailers, and my father doesn't hang about.
So that saved £700+ for a new one
Out of interest what are the potential implications of just ignoring it on a more modern fernickty car?
Reason I rushed to change the X type's one is that they are famous for the metal debris to be attracted to the starter motor and destroy it.My fathers (petrol engined) Volvo 940 Turbo had one. It started rattling at about 130k.
He ignored it.
Aside from an lumpy idle that may or may not have been related) and a godawful rattling when maneuvering, it carried on quite happily until the clutch finally started to slip at 196k. (given that and the mitsubishi turbo putting most of the oil through the engine that was the end of that.)
All this time the car was nearly always loaded up with building materials, regularly towed heavy trailers, and my father doesn't hang about.
So that saved £700+ for a new one
Out of interest what are the potential implications of just ignoring it on a more modern fernickty car?
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