Rear A.R.B. Tie in plate on lower rear wishbone

[TJC46]

I fitted S.H drop links front and rear and i have been very happy with this set up. Only problem is the rear plate on the lower rear wisbone isnt up to the job and is starting to split.
Are stronger replacements available are am i better to fab up my own. The S.H links are excellent but i wonder if i had fitted "NEW" rubber drop links then maybe this would not have happened.
The S.H links were fitted correctly.

[Jon Brown]

I had a similar problem, before I fitted the ARB drop links both sides of the mounting points had cracked and one later snapped in half.

As the wishbones looked pretty old I went for the best and probally safest route to replace both wishbones with new bushes. Not cheap but can't put a price on safety.

As an alternative one of the TVR parts people do a replacement bar though

[Hedgehopper]

This is the old style mount which was prone to cracking.


This is the later style which doesn't. I guess any competent welder would be able to upgrade your old wishbone unless you prefer to buy new.

Hope this helps.

[shpub]

TJC46 said:

. The S.H links are excellent but i wonder if i had fitted "NEW" rubber drop links then maybe this would not have happened.

This was a known "feature" way before I started selling my drop links and TVR did modify the mounting plate for the later cars.

[Chimpafrolic]

Isn't it strange how these things come up, my O/S one has just gone too

I have Leven rear drop links with the upper rubber bushes that go either side of the plate, in theory they should be easier on the plate than the SH ones.

So I don't really think it matters what drop links you have, the plate on the lower wishbone was simply never up to the job.

As I understand it TVR knew about the issue & uprated the plate at some point in production.

If those original feeble Triumph TR6 type links managed to break the plates back when the wishbones were newish, it's no surprise 15 year old plates break when you fit a proper joint that actually works.

If I had known this was going to happen, I definitely would have replaced the plates with uprated ones when I fitted my Leven links.

As always with a TVR, you live & learn

Anyone contemplating new rear drop links (of any type) are well advised to replace the plates with stronger ones at the same time.

It looks like SC Power offer some nice beefy ones made from 25% thicker steel

http://www.sc-power.co.uk/pages/sc-power-wishbones...

[Big Al.]

Bump to the top.

[roseytvr]

Topic revisited. I have fitted drop links and whilst my tie in plate hasn't cracked it has started bowing so I guess breaking is next in its development. Now I have already referb'd the wishbones and por 15 them and don't really want to weld in new tie in plates.

I am thinking of running some flat bar over the tie in plate and running the drop links through the bar and plate in an attempt to strenthen it IYSWIM - has anyone tried this or am I deferring the inevitable?

[estutjaweh]

+1 to having SH drop links. I only noticed my brackets were broken through chance after investigating a nasty knocking sound (which turned out to be the diff bracket that had sheared). I too ordered the replacement brackets, welded them in, re-powder coated the lot and apart to not knowing if I have rebolted the drop links on the correct side of the ARB arm, all is well to date.

[TJC46]

roseytvr said:

Topic revisited. I have fitted drop links and whilst my tie in plate hasn't cracked it has started bowing so I guess breaking is next in its development. Now I have already referb'd the wishbones and por 15 them and don't really want to weld in new tie in plates.

I am thinking of running some flat bar over the tie in plate and running the drop links through the bar and plate in an attempt to strenthen it IYSWIM - has anyone tried this or am I deferring the inevitable?

You could try your idea, but because the forces are in varied directions i cant see it working. It would be fine pushing down on your "flatbar" fitted on top of the arb plate, but on an upward force your "flatbar" would serve no purpose.
If you have recently refurbed the rear suspension and wishbones, it would be easy to remove the lower rear wisbones and get the stonger arb plates welded in.Just grind off where you need to weld, you dont have to remove all of your recently applied por 15, and just touch up after.

[spend]

You need a spreader both above & below to distribute the forces away from the cracking point. Its also worthwhile using a smear of silicone to bond them to the wishbone bracket to ensure contact & aid assembly. I did this with when I put together my own cobbled together ARB rose jointed linkages years ago (and only used 1/4" thick alloy strips) and they were fine.

[roseytvr]

Thanks guys - Will try flattening it out and sandwiching it with quarter inch bar and see how I goö

[Mr Plow]

Just found this.



Looks like I will also be ordering the re-enforced versions. Although might have a look at making my own

Liam

Edited by Mr Plow on Tuesday 17th January 22:38

[phillpot]

Mr Plow said:

might have a look at making my own

Hi Liam, had to replace one when I had my Chim, cut one out from a piece of heavy duty "Unistrut".
Might sound crude but was an easy way to get some three sided, heavy gauge open box section, Radiused the ends to sit around the wishbone tubes rather than just sit on top like original, looked ok and had much deeper sides for (hopefully) a bit more strength.

should have taken photo's

[Mr Plow]

phillpot said:

Hi Liam, had to replace one when I had my Chim, cut one out from a piece of heavy duty "Unistrut".
Might sound crude but was an easy way to get some three sided, heavy gauge open box section, Radiused the ends to sit around the wishbone tubes rather than just sit on top like original, looked ok and had much deeper sides for (hopefully) a bit more strength.

should have taken photo's

Thanks Phillpot.

What a great idea, I think there is some at work, I'm sure no one will miss six inches off the end of a couple of lengths (only joking of course)

Only one side has gone at the moment, but I suppose I should do both sides now. The other side will be the weak point so only a matter of time before it goes as well.

Liam

[CHIMV8]

Chimpafrolic said:

Isn't it strange how these things come up, my O/S one has just gone too

I have Leven rear drop links with the upper rubber bushes that go either side of the plate, in theory they should be easier on the plate than the SH ones.

So I don't really think it matters what drop links you have, the plate on the lower wishbone was simply never up to the job.

As I understand it TVR knew about the issue & uprated the plate at some point in production.

If those original feeble Triumph TR6 type links managed to break the plates back when the wishbones were newish, it's no surprise 15 year old plates break when you fit a proper joint that actually works.

If I had known this was going to happen, I definitely would have replaced the plates with uprated ones when I fitted my Leven links.

As always with a TVR, you live & learn

Anyone contemplating new rear drop links (of any type) are well advised to replace the plates with stronger ones at the same time.

It looks like SC Power offer some nice beefy ones made from 25% thicker steel

http://www.sc-power.co.uk/pages/sc-power-wishbones...

Had a friend who sorted both mine with heavy duty equiv...just the job..the original just split in half when i stripped them off the car..ignore the paint job it was only the first thin coat before anybody comments

Edited by CHIMV8 on Tuesday 17th January 22:38