How does auto bleed valve work
Discussion
Hi, I've just replaced one of these types of automatic radiator bleed valves that has been in one of my rental properties and doing it's job for the last eight years. They are the ones that Wickes sell. The old one seemed to be no longer functioning. The new one seems to have solved the problem (well technically the symptom anyway)
I was just intrigued (sad I know) how this type works and is there anything to go wrong inside them. Is it some material inside which swells when wet to give a seal? Also, I wondered if there is a correct technique to set the screw position or is it a trial and error method like the one I used.
I've searched on the net for info but can't find any so I just thought I would ask on here before I grind the old one in half to see (even sadder).
Thanks.
I was just intrigued (sad I know) how this type works and is there anything to go wrong inside them. Is it some material inside which swells when wet to give a seal? Also, I wondered if there is a correct technique to set the screw position or is it a trial and error method like the one I used.
I've searched on the net for info but can't find any so I just thought I would ask on here before I grind the old one in half to see (even sadder).
Thanks.
Gingerbread Man said:
I can't help but think these would just mask any issue with the central heating system where air would be getting in.
This, and also when I bleed our rads I need to get in the loft and re-pressurize the system or the boiler will display a fault code and lock out??Aye, not blaming you, just think it's a daft idea to put them on your rads. Especially an open system as you can't tell if the header tank is constantly filling up as water is peeing out the other end somewhere.
A sealed system would let you know if pressure was getting out.
All masks an issue that could be rotting out your rads and sludging up your system which mounts up to a protencially bigger bill.
Just my thoughts is all. As you were!
A sealed system would let you know if pressure was getting out.
All masks an issue that could be rotting out your rads and sludging up your system which mounts up to a protencially bigger bill.
Just my thoughts is all. As you were!
A constantly venting system means a constantly filling system. Fresh water means fresh oxygen, which means rusting.
It never ceases to amaze me when people say, "Oh, the system loses pressure (on a sealed system), but our plumbers showed me how to top it up."... like that's a good thing.
It never ceases to amaze me when people say, "Oh, the system loses pressure (on a sealed system), but our plumbers showed me how to top it up."... like that's a good thing.
Paulbav said:
Ahhh, I have no idea what the difference between a open and a non open system
An open vented system uses a cistern to fill the heating system and allow for expansion. The pressure of the system is determined by the height of the cistern and is open to atmosphere.A sealed system is completely sealed to atmosphere, expansion is taken up using an expansion vessel and is filled by a temporary link between the cold main and the heating system. It is usually operated at higher pressure.
Gingerbread Man said:
Aye, not blaming you, just think it's a daft idea to put them on your rads. Especially an open system as you can't tell if the header tank is constantly filling up as water is peeing out the other end somewhere.
A sealed system would let you know if pressure was getting out.
All masks an issue that could be rotting out your rads and sludging up your system which mounts up to a protencially bigger bill.
Just my thoughts is all. As you were!
I tried the trick of setting light to the escaping air to see if it was system corrosion causing the air in it.A sealed system would let you know if pressure was getting out.
All masks an issue that could be rotting out your rads and sludging up your system which mounts up to a protencially bigger bill.
Just my thoughts is all. As you were!
However it didn't ignite, leading me to believe it was air being pulled in from somewhere. I understand these minute leaks can be hard to find as air can get pulled in by the pump through gaps where water can't escape. (Perhaps through the pump bearings)
Am I correct. Does anyone have any thoughts on this?
Also it's a bit of a bind going to bleed radiators occasionally because a tenant "can't remember" how to do them, what with all the other minor jobs some of them want doing which would take them two minutes.
Disclaimer: I do have tenants that are very good and do far more than is expected of them.
jefword said:
I tried the trick of setting light to the escaping air to see if it was system corrosion causing the air in it.
However it didn't ignite, leading me to believe it was air being pulled in from somewhere. I understand these minute leaks can be hard to find as air can get pulled in by the pump through gaps where water can't escape. (Perhaps through the pump bearings)
Am I correct. Does anyone have any thoughts on this?
Also it's a bit of a bind going to bleed radiators occasionally because a tenant "can't remember" how to do them, what with all the other minor jobs some of them want doing which would take them two minutes.
Disclaimer: I do have tenants that are very good and do far more than is expected of them.
Depending on how the pump/ vent is setup, it can pull water through the vent. You could try extending it into the water, (22mm pish fit and bit of pipe (6"?) makes life easy) so any pulling on the vent by the pump will suck water not air.However it didn't ignite, leading me to believe it was air being pulled in from somewhere. I understand these minute leaks can be hard to find as air can get pulled in by the pump through gaps where water can't escape. (Perhaps through the pump bearings)
Am I correct. Does anyone have any thoughts on this?
Also it's a bit of a bind going to bleed radiators occasionally because a tenant "can't remember" how to do them, what with all the other minor jobs some of them want doing which would take them two minutes.
Disclaimer: I do have tenants that are very good and do far more than is expected of them.
Rickyy said:
I'll be honest, I had no idea how they worked until now! Was just passing on some knowledge!
Not sure if radiator auto bleed vents ate different but I thought that they worked different to previously described.I thought it was a matter of bouancy, a float floats if waters present and drops if air, water forcing up on it causes it to create a seal.
But I wouldn't see how this method would work on horizontal plane as it would be in a radiator situation.
Many ways to skin a cat?
Rickyy said:
Paulbav said:
Ahhh, I have no idea what the difference between a open and a non open system
An open vented system uses a cistern to fill the heating system and allow for expansion. The pressure of the system is determined by the height of the cistern and is open to atmosphere.A sealed system is completely sealed to atmosphere, expansion is taken up using an expansion vessel and is filled by a temporary link between the cold main and the heating system. It is usually operated at higher pressure.
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